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How hard is it to change fluid and brake lines on an SV?

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Hi folks. Really sorry to go slightly off topic. But i have some childrens motorbike leathers for sale an was wondering where would be the best place to advertise it ?

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Hi folks. Really sorry to go slightly off topic. But i have some childrens motorbike leathers for sale an was wondering where would be the best place to advertise it ?

Gumtree or Ebay would be my first choices, or any local clubs that have kids riding. You can advertise on here also in the sales section but you need to be a 'Freedom' member (£12 a year or 2 years for £20).

Also must be forums specifically for parents whos kids are on 2 wheels competing etc, might be worth a google.

I've been looking at a pair of kevlar reinforced jeans for biking in during the Summer months for a while now as getting the leathers on for a shortish journey and the hassle of changing again at the office is getting too much. Having seen various sets about and googled them to death I came across and actual UK company who does them and a fairly good price (Hood Jeans). Still sceptical I contacted them for a chat and got a quick and helpful response. Now having bought a pair I am really impressed with the quality and fit. They are extremely comfortable and do feel substantial, especially with the knee and hip armour added. However what I am most surprised about is how natural they look, no random seams around the knees like others I have seen and not unduly bulk to indicate they are anything other than normal jeans (which is great for me as I work in a relaxed office where unripped and unfaded jeans are acceptable). I'm hoping never to find out how good they actually are in a crash and for a long run will most likely stick to leathers but looking forward to the convenience of them for short local runs.

Typically as soon as they arrived it started raining!!!!!!

I want a pair of those too. Want to start riding to work without having to worry about taking clothes in. Got a link?

How hard is it to change fluid and brake lines on an SV?

Not hard mate! Pm me and I'll give you some walk through instructions

Personally I'd leave the lines as braided (which I assume your after ) can make the brakes very unforgiving on off switch like

I will do once I get round to doing it but got a few other things to pay for first. Been thinking about it for a while

Crikey, I must be a pussy, never go much over 100 on mine :blush:

Finally, after 3 days or playing around, managed to figure out why mine wasn't starting: one of the three switches in the ignition barrel (the one controlling the immobiliser) was not working so never produced a spark. :o

Drilling out the security bolts, contact cleaner, green scratch pad soon sorted that out and she's now purring again. Ought to repack my twin renegade cans at some point, getting a little noisy (but oh so nice!).

Changed the brake lines for some proper Hel ones and changed the fluid over. Braking is so much nicer now. Just really need to sort out the suspension - it's shot. Kind of normal for an 11 year old bike having never changed the fork oil :rofl:

it amazes me how inaccurate the digital speedo on the SV is.

How difficult is it to make one that is accurate to a couple of percent?

The SV's must be between 5 and 10%. We usually fo out in the when it is run in a bit and calibrate against the cars GPS at 30, 40, 50, 60 , 70 etc.

Must get the double screen for mine as that would improve rideability in one way though the cushion of air can be helpful sometimes, always wanted the variable height screen as I thought that was a brilliant idea.

The SV gets to 100 in about 9 seconds from still but it is a worry getting knicked. Pop over to Germany must be the best plan if concerned.

Think it needs a tooth or two off the back sprocket to be ideally geared for top speed though that would loose a few tenths from acceleration unless a good pipe etc was used.

Despite the SV being one of the most popular middle weights of the last couple of decades I have seen very little about dyno information, like there use to be in mags, about what works best.

Mine being K2 is the older model with analogue dials and carb fuelling. Haven't ever checked the speedo for accuracy, but will probably do so soon - will pick up the Action camera from work and get a separate GPS logger and then marry the two together to produce some nice videos (probably using dashware).

Changing brake lines is easy. The rear is a doddle - you only change the line from the pedal to the caliper so the one along the swinging arm. The line from the reservoir by the pillion seat to the cylinder doesn't change. Took me about 20 minutes including a full fluid change - went to the ATE Racing fluid which is blue so dead easy to see when you've finished purging out the old yellow fluid.

The fronts can be a bit trickier, depending on which setup you go for. I went for the "race" setup where you have two individual lines from the master cylinder to each caliper. You can stick to the OEM way which is single from cylinder to union banjo on the front forks wich then splits for a line to each caliper. It's a little trickier doing it that way as there's more to go wrong when bleeding.

With the race setup, I thought I did it wrong as it took a very long time / patience to pump new fluid through the new twin lines. It was also a little fiddly as I had to change the reservoir as mine was perished. But as long as you're methodical about it and patient, it's fine. Be equipped with plenty or rags to protect the paint. I can take some photos if you want (if you can excuse a very dirty looking bike :()

edit: forgot to say if you do change the rear line, be careful with the banjo bolt: the thread pitch is finer than all the other banjo bolts. Why Suzuki make that one only different, I don't know! I bought the lines from Hel. But you can get Goodridge or many others out there. Change the compression washers whilst you'd doing it and torque them to 23Nm. The Haynes manual did suggest 7.5Nm torque for the bleed nipples but I found that a bit loose and suspected fuel might leak when really put under pressure so I slightly overdid them to 10Nm (still fine for the thread).

A few photos...

130512_SV650-Brake-Lines_1-M.jpg

130512_SV650-Brake-Lines_2-M.jpg

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130512_SV650-Brake-Lines_4-M.jpg

130512_SV650-Brake-Lines_5-M.jpg

Edit: as a result of changing the lines, I much prefer the braking. It's not harsh at all, on the contrary, it's far more progressive and controllable. But I did change the fluid at the same time (although fluid was only 12-18 months old).

There is a bit more bite than before, but far less sponginess, so whilst not "grabbing" and being "digital" on braking, a given amount of pressure seems to always result in the same amount of braking force. I'm very happy with the change. But then again, the old lines were the ones from factory - so over 11 years old and were probably due for renewal :)

Edited by Xavier

Looks good. I'll have to give it a go when the time comes. Where did you get your lines from?

Turning in to an SV love in.

What can to use (for an injected model which I hope would deal with the back pressure, flow change of a more wholesome can)?

Th original is so insipid, the clop of the V twin needs to be released so I can think I am riding a Ducati with Japanses biuld quality and value.

Mine's a Renegade and was quite expensive (bought it new), but their customer service from Jorge was absolutely fantastic and a great bunch of guys. Unfortunately, they've moved to Portugal. You can occasionally find them on ebay and the like. Also, they were one of the few to make a twin system which (according to rolling road figures) did give an extra few HP. But I love mine and they do sound nice. I'll record a video clip and post :)

Anything will sound better than the OEM though which makes the bike sound more like a hair dryer than anything else :( I changed mine purely on "safety" reasons - so people can hear me coming. I found it particularly useful when I was filtering on the M25 car park at the time.

An aftermarket can often gets rid of a small flat spot that OEM cans are tuned to for noise reasons. I also get a nice induction-like turbo sound from about 5k too :D

edit: video below

130512_SV650-Exhaust-M.jpg

Sounds good. It's another thing on my list to get. Been told to stay away from carbon cans for V Twins as it apparently shakes them to bits. There's a company called Fuel people on the Org recommend

My two bikes...............

IMG_6334_zps2db07c8b.jpg

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Look at what I saw today

http://www.flickr.co...tream/lightbox/

Can't seem to get the pics to show hence link!

Pity it rained for most of the day.

Note to Fubar, it's me off to the NW200

Edited by tuono01

  • Author

Look at what I saw today

http://www.flickr.co...tream/lightbox/

Can't seem to get the pics to show hence link!

Pity it rained for most of the day.

Note to Fubar, it's me off to the NW200

I might see you there, I leave tomorrow night in the VRS :p

Here are the pics

8733337874_a9d21d03db_c.jpg

8732217033_c7ae8c4c23_c.jpg

8733331856_541986c1ee_c.jpg

I want a pair of those too. Want to start riding to work without having to worry about taking clothes in. Got a link?

http://www.hoodjeans.co.uk/

Had a change from the aforementioned SV650S 7 years newer, much smoother and a hell of a lot more comfortable on a good run.

I have put the red wheel tape on one side only until I make my mind up.

Comments welcome.

WP_000174-Copy_zps3ffe816e.jpg

WP_000173_zps2e5e19dc.jpg

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  • Author

Had a change from the aforementioned SV650S 7 years newer, much smoother and a hell of a lot more comfortable on a good run.

I have put the red wheel tape on one side only until I make my mind up.

Comments welcome.

WP_000173_zps2e5e19dc.jpg

Not normally a fan of tape but it does bring the bike out of its shell more looks great.

Trying to keep off sports bikes tbh, if i get something else it'll probably be a big muscle bike.

Fancy a GSX1400 or CB1300 but need to see how the finances go lol

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