skodalads VRS

[skodalad]

Just now, Lofty said:

 

Trust me it's horrific!!

 

 

 

I can imagine, group chats have a tendency to be as such. Any advice with setting the stop screw and actuator as I really dont know??

[Lofty]

11 minutes ago, skodalad said:

 

After reading your thread, yes haha

 

The advice I had was, remove the circlip on the actuator lever, then loosen the stop screw lock nut, wind the stop screw out, hold the vnt lever closed then wind the stop screw till it just touches the lever. Then turn it one and a half times, against the lever. Tighten the lock nut.

 

Then put the actuator back on the vnt lever, use a vacuum pump to see what vacuum it takes to close the vnt lever against the stop screw. It should be about 17 on the gauge. Adjust the length of the actuator to get it spot on. 

 

It may may still need adjusting on the car but it will be pretty damn close!

Edited 30 March, 2017 by Lofty

[skodalad]

1 minute ago, Lofty said:

 

The advice I had was, remove the circling on the actuator lever, then loosen the stop screw lock but, wind the stop screw out, hold the vnt lever closed then wind the stop screw till it just touches the lever. Then turn it one and a half times, against the lever. Tighten the lock nut.

 

Then put the actuator back on the vnt lever, use a vacuum pump to see what vacuum it takes to close the vnt lever against the stop screw. It should be about 17 on the gauge. Adjust the length of the actuator to get it spot on. 

 

It may may still need adjusting on the car but it will be pretty damn close!

 

Thanks for that mate, really helpful. Ill see how i get on this weekend.

 

Got a big weekend session, trying to get the car started, problem solving, fault finding, got to get all the breaks bled, the coolant system bled (difficult as I dont have an expansion tank) then fit all the body panels back on, get the wheels fitting properly. Loads to do 

[Lofty]

It'll make more sense when the turbos in front of you! 

 

For the vacuum pump/gauge I used a cheap Chinese one off eBay, about £15

[Lofty]

I'm sure it'll all come together fine, nerve racking turning the key the first time though!!!!

[skodalad]

1 minute ago, Lofty said:

It'll make more sense when the turbos in front of you! 

 

For the vacuum pump/gauge I used a cheap Chinese one off eBay, about £15

 

My mate and his dad own their own garage, they have loads of expensive equipment. So hopefully he will have something in his arsenal to test it

[skodalad]

1 minute ago, Lofty said:

I'm sure it'll all come together fine, nerve racking turning the key the first time though!!!!

 

Tell me about it mate, Should be okay fingers crossed, been down this road a few times now haha It always ends up with my wallet taking a kicking

[Lofty]

Updates???

[skodalad]

11 minutes ago, Lofty said:

Updates???

 

Just writing it now haha

[skodalad]

Okay, big update time.

 

Ordered a new turbo last week and it came the next day, so Friday I was greeted with this!

 

 

The new turbo means I can use my stainless log manifold now

 

 

Stop screw already preset after talking to supplier about the setup ill be running

 

 

 

and bolted up with a new gasket too

 

 

old vs new

 

 

 

Set about making a new oil return, Using an OEM clip as a jubilee clip wouldn't fit or blocked access to the bolts

 

 

 

A photo from underneath of the bolts I have used for the turbo, they are a multipoint head So I can used an M10 multi spline or a large allen key to take them off, they also have a shallow head on them,

(I know the manifold isnt bolted up fully haha) 

 

 

Now plenty of clearance between the drive shaft and the compressor housing

 

 

 

Now, The new intake I have been designing

 

 

 

 

 

This isn't 100% finished yet, I have ordered 2 black jubilee clips for the middle sections of the pipe so its a bit more stealthy and on the connection to the turbo Ill be

using my constant tension jubilee clips and on the top joint too. Now, A lot of people will say "what about the heat from the exhaust" well, I'm ordering a thermal reflective 

sleeve for it so hopefully the intake temperature is kept to minimum, also heat wrap for the exhaust.

 

Now, onto the exhaust down pipe, I never realised the condition of it when removing it from the donor car, I'll let the pics do the talking

 

 

 

 

 

(being picky in the last picture)

 

anyway, i'm ordering a new one. 2.5 decat with a fake cat shell for MOT purposes.

 

Few pics of the car

 

 

Xenos all up and running

 

 

And I have a coolant leak, so happy about it  (new seal ordered)

 

 

Giving the top fill a quick coat of satin black to match the top hoses (only have a before pic)

 

 

Its all worth it in the end

 

 

 

 

(mario cart daily in the BG)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just waiting to get my boost pipes back now, Then mount the intercooler, get it running then MOT.

 

I can see the light!!!

Edited 3 April, 2017 by skodalad

[pip_vrs]

1 hour ago, skodalad said:

 

I can see the light!!!

 

Thats cause your headlights are on 

 

haha looking good now. Would the inlet pipe not be better connected to engine rather then bulkhead so it can move with it, also be a bit stealthier. 

[Lofty]

Looking good Jack 

[skodalad]

2 minutes ago, pip_vrs said:

 

Thats cause your headlights are on 

 

haha looking good now. Would the inlet pipe not be better connected to engine rather then bulkhead so it can move with it, also be a bit stealthier. 

 

haha nice one.

 

I did think about this, But with my profidiesel intake it really dosent leave much room, also there isnt another space to slot the pipe through (heater hose, catch can pipe and a few other thing are in the way)

[skodalad]

Just now, Lofty said:

Looking good Jack 

 

Thanks mate 

[coskev]

You really don't need to worry about heat soak into the TIP/inlet on a turbocharged car 

 

What does the turbo do to the air when it compresses it?

 

It gets heated massively,hence the intercooler after the turbo.So any mods/heat shields etc to try and cool the air from the air filter etc are a waste of time as the temp the turbo will heat the compressed air to is massive anyway.

[skodalad]

14 hours ago, coskev said:

You really don't need to worry about heat soak into the TIP/inlet on a turbocharged car 

 

What does the turbo do to the air when it compresses it?

 

It gets heated massively,hence the intercooler after the turbo.So any mods/heat shields etc to try and cool the air from the air filter etc are a waste of time as the temp the turbo will heat the compressed air to is massive anyway.

 

You raise a very good point. That makes complete sense, I just spent too long cinvinceing myself it was a problem. I have a £15 roll of reflective silver tape coming so I'll use that anyway, but that does easy my mind some what! Thanks mate  

[faboka vrs]

Have you hooked the vacuum gauge to the actuator? A know you said it was preset but be interesting to see at what vacuum it set too. May help others compare.

 

looking good as always.

[skodalad]

On 4/8/2017 at 20:26, faboka vrs said:

Have you hooked the vacuum gauge to the actuator? A know you said it was preset but be interesting to see at what vacuum it set too. May help others compare.

 

looking good as always.

 

No not yet, My mate forgot to bring it up with him, but when I do I shall report back.

 

Thanks mate 

[skodalad]

Another big weekend on the fabia! 

 

My fuel for the weekend started with this 40oz mixed grill

 

 

Got all my boost pipes back and inlet too, now with v-bands welded too them, the top boost pipe had to be flared at the end to match the v-band flange diameter

 

 

 

To make room for the top boost pipe I had to cut a section out of the plate that was welded in previously as part of the smoothing process

 

 

Built the tape up as a guide to run the blade against as I coulden't get a ruler in there

 

 

Then cut with my trusty angle grinder  

 

Rough test fit before painting

 

 

 

Really happy with how it all fits

 

The inlet is now finished, just got to take it back off to get the MAF boss welded in, as it will help with the mapping process, plus, the previous owner didn't run one

 

Now time to get the boost pipes painted, Using a bumper texture paint to try and achieve an OEM finish on the pipes 

 

 

The trick is to get the steaming hot haha Yes, that is my hair dryer, these golden locks dont dry themselves

 

 

Happy with the finish on them

 

 

The view from the drivers side, now complete with stainless inlet and exhaust manifold, new turbo, murray clamps, black jubilee clips and new boost pipes

 

 

 

Everything mounted up, pretty much exactly how I wanted it    

 

 

 

Another change I needed to make was the flexibility of the top boost pipe, I cut the pipe where it sits behind the bumper as the v-band made it so rigid It needed to have some movement,

 

So, I had a spare darkside 45 degree pipe lying around so I put that in there and ordered a few more murray clamps!

 

 

 

My mates coming up Wednesday and were going for a start! Fingers crossed she fires up

 

 

 

[pip_vrs]

Looks awesome mate.

does that bumper paint not just flake off seeing as its not a bumper.. or plastic and smooth bare metal haha

[skodalad]

4 minutes ago, pip_vrs said:

Looks awesome mate.

does that bumper paint not just flake off seeing as its not a bumper.. or plastic and smooth bare metal haha

 

Thanks mate!

 

I'm sure this would of been an issue, But I did rough up the pipes prior to painting with a red scotch pad so the paint would get a good key, the finish seams very durable in all honesty, I can imagine due to it being bumper paint is has some elastic properties

[TrevorB33]

Looks excellent bud, is your fuel filter mounted on the slam panel?

[skodalad]

10 minutes ago, TrevorB33 said:

Looks excellent bud, is your fuel filter mounted on the slam panel?

 

Cheers buddy, the fuel filter is mounted on the inside of the chassis leg on a homemade bracket

 

you can see it under the alternator in the picture where the top pipe is still chrome

Edited 10 April, 2017 by skodalad

[skodalad]

Went for a start tonight and no joy, check pretty much everything until we came across the fact its getting no fuel.

 

So,

1) is the lift pump knackered?

2) Is it a blown fuse that control the fuel pump? if so which fuse? (I have looked at a fuse diagram and can't pinpoint which one it could be)

 any other suggestions are welcome?

 

[hutchysrs50]

Do you own an electrical test light at all?  If you do quickly stick it over every fuse, usually the easiest thing to do.

 

You can check your getting power to the plug for the lift pump also