PDC OPS advice

[adamal]

Yes Ed, Kb and Hell666 you are quite right, it was late, dark and cold last night and I was looking at the black plug, what a plonker!! There is nothing at 3 and 4 on the brown plug as you say. I now need to source the speaker and fit it, which means running another wire from the front to the back!!

It did seem like there was something speaker shaped behind the dash but I didn't know where to look to be honest. Is it a dash pod off jobby to fit?

Ta

Adam

[Eddie-NL]

You can fit the speaker where you want

you will need

000 979 009E repair wire for the brown plug

and depending on what speaker you buy a plug and suitable repair wire

VW speaker and Skoda speakers use different plugs

[adamal]

Thanks Ed

[KBPhoto]

Official fitting method is to remove the panel above the driver's foitwell. PITA!

Easy to fit by removing the dash top box and reaching across - you should at least be able to see the holes.

Alternatively, so I'm told, you can get to them by removing the dash / instrument cluster.

[adamal]

Thanks. Got rid of the two rear sensor errors by joining the four positives and negatives and putting positives to pin 11, negatives to 8. Will order a buzzer and hope to be sorted.

[KBPhoto]

Good stuff Adam - You are certainly dedicated to the cause!

I'd have given up by now and called in the cavalry...

[adamal]

It's a good learning experience. Am enjoying it....

[hell666]

Great going! You are just a little away from getting OPS on the Screen. Hope to see some pictures very soon.

[adamal]

Well buzzer ordered, so fingers crossed. I am surprised that the image is not showing just because the buzzer is missing, but then I don't know the inner workings of the module so still hopeful.

Hell666:did your image only appear after you put your temp speaker in??

Ta

Adam

[hell666]

.

.

Hell666:did your image only appear after you put your temp speaker in??

Ta

Adam

Yes, when I started off, if I remember right, I got a total of 4+1 Errors, viz., 4 Errors for the Sensors not detected (due to the wiring mis-configuration) and 1 for the missing Buzzer (Open Circuit). After having sorted out the Sensors, the OPS still did not display and every time I engaged the Parking Aid by pressing the Button, I just got intermittent warning beeps with the light in the Button flashing. The only Error now remaining was the Buzzer missing. After having spent hours into figuring and sorting the main Sensors' problem, didn't want to leave it here, especially when I was just that little away from getting it all done. So, gave it a go by connecting a Speaker that was lying around at home, and the moment I did it, the Image instantly appeared on the Screen like a magic charm! The feeling was that of winning a Lottery, or even better! I'm sure you will be able relate to it soon.

[adamal]

Ok great thanks mate, just waiting for part to arrive now...

[adamal]

So it arrived today......

And....

It worked.... Get in.

As hell says what a good feeling that was. Piccies and guide to follow when I can get the laptop off the kids....

[hell666]

Well done mate, happy to hear that! Waiting for Pics and Guide, should help others now.

[KBPhoto]

You are persistent, and persistence pays.

Well done Adam. Bet you are well pleased after all the anguish.

[adamal]

Cheers lads, I really am well chuffed. The missus can’t see what the fuss is about but I love it.

Firstly a huge thank you to all who helped with this, in particular hell666 whose own posting into retrofitting sensors and subsequent advice helped immensely, but all of you really. To give something back here is a summary of the steps I took to retrofit OPS, already having the front and rear sensors installed at build time with just standard pdc. This I think applies to all pre FL cars, but definitely those with a parking controller with part number ending 283.

There are differences if you have only rear sensors which I will try and explain.

Parts

Parking controller 5K0919475E for eight sensors, 45 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id358.html), or 5J0919475A for rears sensors only, 40 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id477.html)

CAN wiring from dealer 000979987, £14 for 10m

Repair wires from dealer 000979009, £2.51 each (I bought a few for various jobs, you'll need three for this)

Webbing tape (the part number from a dealer is 000979950, £6 for 10m, but its probably cheaper in somewhere like Maplins)

Extra PDC buzzer for front sensors if relevant 8E0919279 (http://www.carsystem...9279,id470.html) £10

About £80 total cost for a car with eight sensors fitted already, although older cars may need a CAN gateway upgrade – apparently revision E is the earliest revision for this to work according to the mygti site. I believe Eddie-NL sells them and will know a lot more about installing them and coding them than me.

Steps

On the left hand side of the car, pull the trim off the front sill panel, loosen the trim at the bottom of the b pillar (easiest if you take the top trim off first), and then lift rear seat, undo the plastic screw on the rear sill panel and lift that trim panel a bit. That should give you enough room to run the CAN wiring twisted pair from the front of the car to the back. Also if you have front sensors and want to put the front buzzer in the oem position at the front of the car, run a second pair of wires front to back at this point. I made two mini looms by wrapping the two pairs of wires in tape. In the case of the CAN wiring it needs to be a twisted pair. As Eddie said earlier probably not worth skimping on an alternative to genuine wiring.

In my case, I passed the CAN wires through the grommet above the pollen filter housing under the glove box. If you take the battery out you can see rubber nipples near the battery tray which you can snip the end off and pass a stiff wire through which then comes out in the cabin by the pollen filter housing. I found this quite fiddly, but a straightened old coat hanger did the trick for me. Attach the CAN wiring to the end of the stiff wire and pull it back through to the engine bay.

Next access the CAN gateway from behind the wiper assembly. See this guide: http://www.r32oc.com...cation-removal/, which is for a Golf but spot on for the Octy too. Then run the CAN wiring to the gateway plug (I went through the grommets on the scuttle panel and then cable tied the loom in a few places). Next pull the plug from the gateway and identify the DRIVE CAN wires. These are black/orange and brown/orange. Black orange is CAN high at pin 16, the brown orange is CAN low at pin 6. Use a small screwdriver tip to flick off the catch and take the cover off the plug, and then remove these two wires carefully by pressing on the tabs inside the plug and pulling them out gently. Once the wires are removed from the plug you have just enough room to solder the CAN pair to them. Leaving a little distance from the terminals, strip an inch of the insulation from each of the existing DRIVE CAN wires (fiddly) and then wrap each of the CAN wires you have run to the relevant existing wire, and solder well. Insulate with tape, put the plug back together and plug it in, and then put the wipers etc. all back together. Obviously the new wire has to run under the cover for the gateway so I made sure it ran in at the top of that cover - as there is no screw at the top, I figured the seal wasn’t as important there. It is less likely to see moisture there as you will see when you come to this step.

If you have a pre 2007 car, the gateway is behind the glovebox so this bit will be much easier. Also there may be better places to connect to the DRIVE CAN that involve less work which others can point to.

Now turn the attention to the back of the car and strip away the trim from the left side of the boot. I started by taking the centre trim of the rear sill away (three plastic nuts by spare), then the lower d pillar trim (screws and clips), then the c pillar upper trim, and then the luggage cover support. You need to remove caps from the hooks to access the screws and also there is a screw behind the big hook. Then I pulled the rear seat bolster off at the top (just a good tug), and unscrewed the side trim. The rivet things by the cd changer (if you have one) pull out easily with a long nose pliers applied on the centre pin. This is for an estate, a hatch will be slightly different I imagine.

Now you can see the controller on the inside of the wheel arch, with three plugs, one bigger 16 pin brown plug and two smaller 12 pin (brown and black) plugs for the sensors. Pull them all out and take off the old controller (two nuts), and then put the new one in its place. On the 16 pin plug, take the cover off and extract pins 3, 7 and 14, these are no longer needed, so insulate them off and cable tie them to the loom away from the action. The CAN wire you attached to CAN high should go into pin 6, and the wire you attached to CAN low should go into pin 15. I soldered a small piece of repair wire onto the end of each wire to provide the terminals.

If you have front sensors the new controller requires a second pdc buzzer to be installed (the old one managed with just the one). If you want OEM, the other loom you ran earlier needs to be connected to pins 3 and 4 of the smaller brown plug (they will be empty), and the other end of the loom is then run behind the dash to the speaker which is attached to the ledge just to the left of the steering wheel, and accessible from the hole the top box sits in, or from the hole for the stereo (you needn’t remove the stereo, but its easier if you do). Again you use the repair wires to provide the terminals and solder them to each end of the loom.

The old controller had separate outputs to each of the rear sensors , but the new combines the positive and negative of all four to a common pin. So take the eight positive (blacks) and negative (browns) pins out of the black 12 pin plug, cut the terminals off, join the four positives, join the four negatives, and then solder a terminal onto each join. Plug into pins 8 (negative) and 11 (positive).

Finally you need to get someone with VCDS to code the car to tell it to use address 10 on the gateway, not 76. Then code address 10, I used 100001, but the long coding helper will give the options and you need to choose the relevant ones.

Fire it up, stick it in reverse or press your PDC button, and hopefully Robert is a close male relative....

[zeffania]

Nice one Adam, can't wait to give this a go in the summer although I'm thinking of at least passing the can wiring through the car sooner to speed up the install. Cheers for taking the time to write it

[adamal]

Good man, drop me a line if you need any more info....

[KBPhoto]

Excellent write up and well done on achieving the 'impossible'. (At least that's what I was told when I joined this forum.)

Looking at the pictures of it in action, do you have an estate then? I hadn't realised!

[adamal]

Yep an estate, and much prefer it to my previous hatch....

[zeffania]

Adam, will do but I'm hoping your clear instructions will be more than enough

Never know with me though, lol

[hell666]

Cheers lads, I really am well chuffed. The missus can’t see what the fuss is about but I love it.

Firstly a huge thank you to all who helped with this, in particular hell666 whose own posting into retrofitting sensors and subsequent advice helped immensely, but all of you really. To give something back here is a summary of the steps I took to retrofit OPS, already having the front and rear sensors installed at build time with just standard pdc. This I think applies to all pre FL cars, but definitely those with a parking controller with part number ending 283.

There are differences if you have only rear sensors which I will try and explain.

Parts

Parking controller 5K0919475E for eight sensors, 45 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id358.html), or 5J0919475A for rears sensors only, 40 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id477.html)

CAN wiring from dealer 000979987, £14 for 10m

Repair wires from dealer 000979009, £2.51 each (I bought a few for various jobs, you'll need three for this)

Webbing tape (the part number from a dealer is 000979950, £6 for 10m, but its probably cheaper in somewhere like Maplins)

Extra PDC buzzer for front sensors if relevant 8E0919279 (http://www.carsystem...9279,id470.html) £10

About £80 total cost for a car with eight sensors fitted already, although older cars may need a CAN gateway upgrade – apparently revision E is the earliest revision for this to work according to the mygti site. I believe Eddie-NL sells them and will know a lot more about installing them and coding them than me.

Steps

On the left hand side of the car, pull the trim off the front sill panel, loosen the trim at the bottom of the b pillar (easiest if you take the top trim off first), and then lift rear seat, undo the plastic screw on the rear sill panel and lift that trim panel a bit. That should give you enough room to run the CAN wiring twisted pair from the front of the car to the back. Also if you have front sensors and want to put the front buzzer in the oem position at the front of the car, run a second pair of wires front to back at this point. I made two mini looms by wrapping the two pairs of wires in tape. In the case of the CAN wiring it needs to be a twisted pair. As Eddie said earlier probably not worth skimping on an alternative to genuine wiring.

In my case, I passed the CAN wires through the grommet above the pollen filter housing under the glove box. If you take the battery out you can see rubber nipples near the battery tray which you can snip the end off and pass a stiff wire through which then comes out in the cabin by the pollen filter housing. I found this quite fiddly, but a straightened old coat hanger did the trick for me. Attach the CAN wiring to the end of the stiff wire and pull it back through to the engine bay.

Next access the CAN gateway from behind the wiper assembly. See this guide: http://www.r32oc.com...cation-removal/, which is for a Golf but spot on for the Octy too. Then run the CAN wiring to the gateway plug (I went through the grommets on the scuttle panel and then cable tied the loom in a few places). Next pull the plug from the gateway and identify the DRIVE CAN wires. These are black/orange and brown/orange. Black orange is CAN high at pin 16, the brown orange is CAN low at pin 6. Use a small screwdriver tip to flick off the catch and take the cover off the plug, and then remove these two wires carefully by pressing on the tabs inside the plug and pulling them out gently. Once the wires are removed from the plug you have just enough room to solder the CAN pair to them. Leaving a little distance from the terminals, strip an inch of the insulation from each of the existing DRIVE CAN wires (fiddly) and then wrap each of the CAN wires you have run to the relevant existing wire, and solder well. Insulate with tape, put the plug back together and plug it in, and then put the wipers etc. all back together. Obviously the new wire has to run under the cover for the gateway so I made sure it ran in at the top of that cover - as there is no screw at the top, I figured the seal wasn’t as important there. It is less likely to see moisture there as you will see when you come to this step.

If you have a pre 2007 car, the gateway is behind the glovebox so this bit will be much easier. Also there may be better places to connect to the DRIVE CAN that involve less work which others can point to.

Now turn the attention to the back of the car and strip away the trim from the left side of the boot. I started by taking the centre trim of the rear sill away (three plastic nuts by spare), then the lower d pillar trim (screws and clips), then the c pillar upper trim, and then the luggage cover support. You need to remove caps from the hooks to access the screws and also there is a screw behind the big hook. Then I pulled the rear seat bolster off at the top (just a good tug), and unscrewed the side trim. The rivet things by the cd changer (if you have one) pull out easily with a long nose pliers applied on the centre pin. This is for an estate, a hatch will be slightly different I imagine.

Now you can see the controller on the inside of the wheel arch, with three plugs, one bigger 16 pin brown plug and two smaller 12 pin (brown and black) plugs for the sensors. Pull them all out and take off the old controller (two nuts), and then put the new one in its place. On the 16 pin plug, take the cover off and extract pins 3, 7 and 14, these are no longer needed, so insulate them off and cable tie them to the loom away from the action. The CAN wire you attached to CAN high should go into pin 6, and the wire you attached to CAN low should go into pin 15. I soldered a small piece of repair wire onto the end of each wire to provide the terminals.

If you have front sensors the new controller requires a second pdc buzzer to be installed (the old one managed with just the one). If you want OEM, the other loom you ran earlier needs to be connected to pins 3 and 4 of the smaller brown plug (they will be empty), and the other end of the loom is then run behind the dash to the speaker which is attached to the ledge just to the left of the steering wheel, and accessible from the hole the top box sits in, or from the hole for the stereo (you needn’t remove the stereo, but its easier if you do). Again you use the repair wires to provide the terminals and solder them to each end of the loom.

The old controller had separate outputs to each of the rear sensors , but the new combines the positive and negative of all four to a common pin. So take the eight positive (blacks) and negative (browns) pins out of the black 12 pin plug, cut the terminals off, join the four positives, join the four negatives, and then solder a terminal onto each join. Plug into pins 8 (negative) and 11 (positive).

Finally you need to get someone with VCDS to code the car to tell it to use address 10 on the gateway, not 76. Then code address 10, I used 100001, but the long coding helper will give the options and you need to choose the relevant ones.

Fire it up, stick it in reverse or press your PDC button, and hopefully Robert is a close male relative....

Does the OPS display 4 point distances for each end (Front/Back) or 2? From the Pics I can see it displays 2 for each end of the car, shouldn't it display 4?

[adamal]

Yes 4, just coincidence with positioning at time of taking pics.

[zeffania]

I wondered about that too, glad it shows 4. Makes me wonder about doing the front, lol

[KBPhoto]

I wondered about that too, glad it shows 4. Makes me wonder about doing the front, lol

Go on! Do it. You know you want to...

If you've got rear PDC with OPS already, then its just a few bits of wire, a speaker & some sensors. Sounds simple.

[wfdTamar]

Just put F&R sensors in my car, but first it didn't work because I didn't realise you had to tell the Can gateway (item 19, gateway installation list) you had put them in (add Code 10), which I did do, BUT ALSO then go into the park assist module (item 10) and using the Long Code Helper turn it on and turn on the video display (a check box), also which car picture you want.

Now discovered the front sensors are connected the wrong way around - I went down the right side of the engine bay, so the first sensor is on the right, last in the chain is on the left of the car, but on the RNS510 they show reversed. I need to have the first connected on the left, last in the chain on the right of the car.