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Yeti 140 4x4 CRD Remap.


geordiebroon

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Following postings from our new sponser UNICORN based 2 miles away from me in Stockport I decided to take the plunge and get a remap up to "170" levels having thought about it for months.

Having set out my requirements Rick confirmed that they could be met (via PMs) so I dropped the car off a couple of days later and later that day received a call that the car was ready.

The difference in the engine is astounding!! At 27,000 miles it is like getting a brand new much more powerful and flexible engine that is already run in :| Even more surprising is how smooth the engine is. Using the box the mid range acceleration is electric - to me anyway. Having only done 250 miles and not yet towed our caravan I do not yet have the full picture but have no reason to suppose that towing will be anything other than a joy. Will report back on towing performance in a couple of weeks.

John

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Rockhopper - yes the ECU was taken out. As I understand it it can't be mapped without removal.

Wilkenstein - what I can say already is that consumption is certainly no greater and probably a couple of mpg better. BUT...

this is using same driving style. If you drive an unmapped 140 spiritedly then I would expect a mapped 140 driven the same way to provide the same or better mpg. The engine however does rev so freely that self control is needed :)

Still very early days though.

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Thanks, I'd always assumed if you remapped to give better power / a higher bhp then the fuel economy would be hit (lower mpg) as a trade off. But if that's not the case I could well be interested myself :)

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I remapped mine back in December and on the 2 occasions I've switched it back to stock, the fuel economy has gone down. It must be me mashing the throttle because I'm not getting the expected performance....

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I remapped mine back in December and on the 2 occasions I've switched it back to stock, the fuel economy has gone down.

That's what I thought might happen tbh.

Not sure how the 105 1.6 is as a basis for a map?

And yeah, you probably know a lot more than I do, does that mean you'd think the 1.6 (Greenline) wouldn't be suitable then?

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The most likely best thing to do is just get the greenline engine curve tuned to be a bit more efficient as I reckon skoda may have properly played around with it so they can get the low emissions cert.

You will probably be able to get the power delivery a bit cleaner.

But with being around people who tune cars and bikes all my life with my racing of two wheels they all say one thing if you want more power your going to burn more fuel.

Maybe a couple of bhp is achievable without affecting the mpg but not much I would reckon.

I drive my greenline like a granny to get over 50mpg but as soon as I put my foot down you can take 10mpg off straight away and it keeps dropping away like a stone in water

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One of my old race bikes had 4 maps on he Cdi and the lowest setting 4 was great for fuel but crap power and used that in the rain or cold days until the tyres were hot enough but the top map 1 gave you power like a light switch but it also extremely bad for fuel I'd say about 65% worse on fuel and that trend was the same as you went up from 4-1

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Mapping usualy gives a better torque curve than stock.

Which actually makes the car more fuel efficient, unless you are using the extra power.

Driving sensibly you should see a slightly better economy, or driven fast you'll see more performance.

You can't have both at exactly the same time. :)

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The 1.6 diesel maps to 130bhp, which makes quite a difference!

It also becomes smoother with a more flexible torque curve.

In my books, that makes for roughly a 24% increase in power, and if I know Ben at Shark, as much or more torque increase as well.

My Shark breathed on CR140 behave just like BossFox's, revs like a petrol to the red line.

Use all the available power, and consumption will be worse, drive like Miss Daisy, better fuel economy, drive the same as a normal (CR140 in my case) and you should expect better economy.

I had a similar car to mine a few months ago and drove the same route at the same speeds. My remapped one appeared to give about 10% better economy.

A TapaTalk enabled phone was used to write this...

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"wilkenstein" said "......switched it back to stock".

What does this mean, Please?

My Revo remap can be switched between the stock map and up to 3 different states of tune.

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Revo have their SPS box that plugs into the OBD port - even works with the latest secure ECU's because of the way Revo defeat the security.

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Sorry have I misunderstood something here? I've always understood that a remap involves changing the software in the ECU and doesn't have any additional hardware,i.e.tuning box. Is this not correct?

Another question, is ity possible to "switch" different modes of "tune" with a remap?

Fred

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  • 2 weeks later...

The 1.6's do very well from a map also.

Regarding fuel efficiency, this comes about for two reasons.

1. the extra torque means less gear changing and generally a lighter right foot.

2. Re calibrated injection timing. This is the real key, and also the hardest thing to tune on the car. Altering the point at which the fuel is injected changes the burn characteristic My aim when tuning is to time the burn to give the most kinetic energy to the piston and not simply escape out of the exhaust valve.

Rick

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The 1.6's do very well from a map also.

Regarding fuel efficiency, this comes about for two reasons.

1. the extra torque means less gear changing and generally a lighter right foot.

2. Re calibrated injection timing. This is the real key, and also the hardest thing to tune on the car. Altering the point at which the fuel is injected changes the burn characteristic My aim when tuning is to time the burn to give the most kinetic energy to the piston and not simply escape out of the exhaust valve.

Rick

It's #2 that most people don't understand. Factory timing is often retarded slightly for noise and NOx emissions. Bringing it back up helps both efficiency and power. The only downside, you might notice your engine is a little noisier.

There is also a small economy gain from being able to pull higher gears. Most noticable on hills though, not a big player in flat country.

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It's #2 that most people don't understand. Factory timing is often retarded slightly for noise and NOx emissions. Bringing it back up helps both efficiency and power. The only downside, you might notice your engine is a little noisier.

There is also a small economy gain from being able to pull higher gears. Most noticable on hills though, not a big player in flat country.

Yes, spot on. You have to get pretty aggressive with the timing before the noise starts to be noticeable. At part throttle where the economy driving is, the cylinder pressures are still pretty low :)

Rick

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