Sorry for your problems but extra glad I went TSI and manual. Many problems with my previous Diesel as well, not suited to my short mileage

It's no big deal.  These really are minor problems and I was just trying to find out if they were common/known faults.  I do about 10 miles a day and mostly in heavy traffic so I expect a few DPF regenerations - just not this early in the car's life. The rest is easily overcome.

 

By the way, I test drove a manual TSI and it was great, but the display was showing an average of 17MPG which put me off a bit, having averaged 45MPG in my Fabia VRS previously. 

Yes, the TSI is horrible in heavy traffic and short trips. Mine shows even less than 17! 

Update.

 

I have to admit when people suggested that the Canton sound system needed "running in" I was, to say the least, very sceptical. Well, 3 weeks in and indeed the subwoofer is banging away like a good 'un and the sound is now much better overall.  I have never known an electronic component needing time to settle it.  It's just not logical but it's actually true.   :wonder: .  I'd never have believed it if I hadn't experienced it myself.

 

Regarding the other teething issues - all have sorted themselves out with the exception of the right headlamp washer (still sticks) and the rearview mirror which doesn't appear to autodip. Dealer is aware and I'll book it in when I get back from skiing.

 

Overall, the Octy is great and I'mm well chuffed with it.

If you check around you'll see that all audio speakers need running in. It's just that on lower value/quality ones they're so bad you can't get any actual improvement before and after (or discernible anyway).

I have never known an electronic component needing time to settle it.  It's just not logical but it's actually true.   :wonder: .  I'd never have believed it if I hadn't experienced it myself.

 

It's not so much the electronics that need running in, the speaker cones physically move, so it makes more sense if you think about it like that. With the rest of the car, the physically moving components (engine, gearbox etc) do loosen up over time.

Indeed everything in audio needs running in or, in other words, you can "listen" to the effects of running in of the components of the chain.

 

As correctly stated by Squirrelz, transducers (i.e. speakers) are the device showing the greater effect, but you might be surprised in reading running in even for amplifiers, sources, ...cables! (not to speak of esotheric subjects like cryogenic tratments or polarity memory effect:) )

 

As I already written elsewhere, the simple and cheap exchange of the standard electrolytic caps acting as a high pass filter for the tweeters with a pair of MKP nicely tamed the harshness of the highs, without killing higher frequencies. It's not a high end secret that electrolytics has NOT TO BE USED in crossovers.

 

With respect to the standard MKII setup, the standard BMW 3 audio was very, very poor.

 

Does anybody have the opportunity to see how tweeters are filtered in a MkIII?

Sitting at traffic lights at night with the DSG in Drive and your foot on the footbrake means your brake lights are illuminated and a nuisance to the driver behind you.  Very inconsiderate and a fail on many advanced driving tests.  Yes, I know many drivers do so but that doesn't make it right - "Its an automatic" seems to be the excuse for many drivers that do this.  I have a DSG and it is no more effort, or delay, to apply the handbrake and slip into Neutral than it was on my previous manual - in fact it's less as I no longer have to depress a clutch pedal.

 

If it is obvious that I will only be stopped for around 5 seconds or less then I leave D selected and use the footbrake - otherwise always N and handbrake. 

And if you do this the stop start won't stop the engine.

 

Leave it in D

 

Foot fully on the brake

 

Engine turns off

 

No stress on any part

 

Your brakes lights stay on, so what?  That's what they're there for.

 

Even if the stop start doesn't want to play ball and keeps the engine running (due to A/C or some other thing) you can see and feel the revs drop from around 1000rpm and wanting to go to around 750rpm and the clutches engaged... again no stress on anything.

 I have never known an electronic component needing time to settle it.  It's just not logical but it's actually true.   :wonder: .  I'd never have believed it if I hadn't experienced it myself.

 

 

 

Subwoofers and speakers have got more in common with motors. They physically move, not really anything to do with electronics.

And if you do this the stop start won't stop the engine.

 

Leave it in D

 

Foot fully on the brake

 

Engine turns off

 

No stress on any part

 

Your brakes lights stay on, so what?  That's what they're there for.

 

Even if the stop start doesn't want to play ball and keeps the engine running (due to A/C or some other thing) you can see and feel the revs drop from around 1000rpm and wanting to go to around 750rpm and the clutches engaged... again no stress on anything.

 

Shhh, stop making sense or pitchforks might be raised... 

It's not so much the electronics that need running in, the speaker cones physically move, so it makes more sense if you think about it like that. With the rest of the car, the physically moving components (engine, gearbox etc) do loosen up over time.

The only thing I could believe is that internally the amplifier is set very low (regardless of settings) and it increases the amplification over time monitoring itself to prevent over driving and saturation, kind of a built in learning process.  That's why over a few weeks use the sound gets 'better'.

 

The speaker cones would have to be drum tight to loosen enough to make that much of a difference after a few uses, and if that was the case in a few more uses they would be soft and unresponsive.  It's not the speakers, it's the electronics in the head unit/amp.

 

Had a Kenwood that would go to whatever volume I wanted (even though the sound distorted like hell at high volume).

 

Had a Sony that would physically turn the sound off it it started to distort until you turned the volume down (using same speakers and amps as previous Kenwood setup).

And if you do this the stop start won't stop the engine.

Leave it in D

Foot fully on the brake

Engine turns off

No stress on any part

Your brakes lights stay on, so what? That's what they're there for.

Even if the stop start doesn't want to play ball and keeps the engine running (due to A/C or some other thing) you can see and feel the revs drop from around 1000rpm and wanting to go to around 750rpm and the clutches engaged... again no stress on anything.

Noticed something today -

With DSG and stop start is activated engine turns off with foot brake engaged.

Taking foot off the brake on restart, engine fires up but the brake light stays on for a few seconds just to allow the engine to restart.

Edited 14 February, 201412 yr by Igdos

DSG Gearbox suggestions

 

1/ Drop into sport when approaching a roundabout...so it doesn't go to sleep on you.

 

2/ As you come to a halt, knock the lever into neutral so that the gearbox doesn't fight against the brakes...your passengers will appreciate the smoother stop! :-)

 

3/ DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT leave the car in D for the entire duration of the journey! You might as well buy a Range Rover and have pratt writen on the number plate...I hate drivers who blind you with brake lights!

Never had an issue with no 1 or 2. Unless you keep the car in Eco Mode then there's no sleeping going on when reaching a roundabout, intersection etc. Never had an issue with choppy halting of the car either, I actually get a small kick from going 3rd to 2nd, not when stopping.

 

Number 3, the manufacturer of the car says you should keep it in D (except for a couple of exceptions). Do not start that discussion again...

 

PS: I bet you go and knock on the windows of car drivers who sit on the brakes and their car is a manual as well...

PPS: The start-stop doesn't work on a DSG car if you keep it in N.

Replying a bit late to this post re the DSG.

 

Rightly or wrongly I just leave it in "D" & let the stop/start do its job. If you release the foot brake, the engine starts and without touching the throttle it can take a second or two to move off. However, I find that if you release the brake & go straight to the throttle and press it, as soon as the engine starts the car moves with no hesitation or delay.

The only time id say a stock system ought to blow your socks off is if you spec a very high end system on a vastly more premium car....Mark Levinson on a Lexus or Bose/B&O on a new Audi A6 for example.[/quote

I've been really impressed with the Bose system in the A6. Incredible punch but very well balanced too. Interestingly most of the Bose systems I've tried have been way too bass heavy for my tastes, but the mid range is great.

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