If anyone is interested, here's my efforts on upgrading the internal lights in my vRS estate. I daresay the same would apply to any model, not just a vRS but anyway, moving on......

 

Courtesy lights

Get hold of a pack of 10 W5W 194 T10 5 SMD 5050 LED push wedge bulbs, about a fiver from that well known internet auction site. In the roof lights, the existing bulbs, 2 front, 3 rear, can simply be exchanged without modification, simply pop off the surround using a small screwdriver and pull the old bulbs out and push the new LEDs in. For the courtesy lights in the boot (2), glovebox (1) and front doors (2), pop out the bulb holder with a screwdriver and remove the old bulb. On the LED replacement, you will need to cut off the collar part of the white plastic cover with a knife as the diameter of this collar prevents the bulb being pushed in far enough. You'll see what I mean if you try it. It's a bit fiddly and you will cut your thumb at least once when the knife slips but persevere, it's worth it. As with all LEDs, they only work one way round so if at first it fails to illuminate, simply rotate it 180 degrees.

 

Additional boot lights

The additional lights in the boot (it's an estate, is it still called a boot?) are just 12V LED strips, again from that well known internet auction side, just search for 30cm 15 SMD 5050 LED Audi A5 and you'll find them. These are wired up to the courtesy lights. I simply cut the existing wires about an inch from the plug, +12V = red/blue, 0V = brown and spliced in another pair to the LED strip which is just stuck using the self adhesive backing to the plastic side panels. OK, you need some wire, a soldering iron, and some soldering ability but it's relatively easy. Why do it - 'cos the original bulbs are hopeless with the boot empty, worse than useless with a full boot. Adding more lights just seemed the obvious solution.

 

Footwell lights

The footwell lights were a bit more involved as you have to create an ignition fed 12V supply. I soldered a wire to a fuse (a fuse tap and spade connector would have been easier but I didn't have one) and stuck it in the spare slot 48. For the 0V, the 2 combined hex & Torx head, dashboard mounting screws (which are accessible when you're messing about in the fuse box) go to earth so I used a spaded 0V wire on to one of them, voilà an ignition fed 12V supply. Using another one of those LED strips, I cut a block of 3 LEDs off so I had a 2" length, removed 1/4" of the silicon covering to reveal the copper tracks and soldered 2 wires on to each 2" length, routed the wires back to the fuse box, connected it all up and stuck the LED to the underside of the dashboard.

 

I'm not saying this is THE way to do it, I'm sure there are superior and easier aftermarket products available but it does for me and for around a tenner and a couple of hours effort, I've got LEDs all round, a much brighter boot area and half decent footwell lights.

 

I'm more than happy to answer any questions but I'm no electrician, I'm just using a bit of noggin and DIY skills and passing on my experiences. I apologise now for the quality of the pictures, they don't do the results justice but you should get the idea.

 

 

Any chance of some links

Most of these type of items on eBay are here today, gone tomorrow so these links may not be valid for long but here goes:

 

Bulbs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-T10-194-168-W5W-501-5050-5-SMD-LED-ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-White-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/310839836453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item485f7f7f25

 

LED Strips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30cm-5050-SMD-15-LED-Day-Running-Strip-Car-Light-Audi-A5-Waterproof-12V-Blue-/350777206150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51abf36586

Most of these type of items on eBay are here today, gone tomorrow so these links may not be valid for long but here goes:

 

Bulbs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-T10-194-168-W5W-501-5050-5-SMD-LED-ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-White-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/310839836453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item485f7f7f25

 

LED Strips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30cm-5050-SMD-15-LED-Day-Running-Strip-Car-Light-Audi-A5-Waterproof-12V-Blue-/350777206150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51abf36586

Thanks for that.

 

Regarding the front footwell lights I am doing the same  with a kit from maplins. But after falling out with the glovebox removal/refitting procedure, didn't have a lot of time to play about with fitting the lights.

What I did try though was to thread a wire from the passenger side to the drivers side footwell, but didn't have any luck.

Any tips most welcome

The official manual explanation on how to remove the glovebox to gain access to the fusebox is as clear as mud but it's actually quite easy when you know how.

If you open the glovebox, at the back to the left you can just about see a small arm linking it to the dashboard, this is the "soft open" mechanism so the glovebox doesn't just drop open in your lap. What you need to do is pop this off before removing the glovebox itself.

1. Remove the cover on the side of the dashboard and you'll see a hole through to the back of the glovebox and this arm.

2. Stick a biggish screwdriver in there and push the arm up vertically and it will fairly easily pop off (and start to retract slowly - not a problem).

3. Grab the glovebox and admittedly with a bit of brute force, pull it towards you, maybe easing it left and right. Give it a whack or two, it will come off eventually.

 

Now that's off, you can thread your new supply wires up across the top of the fusebox and then round the back of the centre console. On the passenger side, remove the retaining Torx head screw from the the lower panel (where the passenger's right foot would rest) and then prise this panel down so you can see into the centre console space (lots of air-con pipes and such in there). Do the same on the drivers side and now with a bit of fiddling around and an old coat hanger, you can get the wires across into the dashboard below the steering wheel and from there it's up to you.

 

Putting the glovebox back on is just the reverse of taking it off:

1. Place the glovebox roughly in the right position placing its stop (top right) behind the equivalent dashboard stop the and line the two lugs up with the location bars on the dashboard (that form the hinge). Now give a good whack forwards on each side to "click" these into place.Don't forget to roughly line up the soft-open arm which will have retracted fully by now.

2. Stick that screwdriver back in the hole and pull the arm forwards so its hook is over the hinge lug where it popped off of originally and then push down with the screwdriver to click it back into place.

3. Replace the dashboard side cover.

 

Sorry if that's a bit long-winded but I hope it helps.

thanks for that good explanation. I attempted the mission in freezing temperatures, making the hinges very difficult to separate and even worse to re-locate.

I didn't get to removing the panels you suggest to gain access to the centre console, but will revisit the task when the temperature is more favourable.

Once again thanks for your help.

Tried to install the interior courtesy lights (front) today, couldn't work out how to lever the assembly open! The rear was easy, as was boot and glovebox.

 

Any tips?

I found a picture on Google of the complete assembly, just stick a thin flat bladed screwdriver where the arrow is and the bezel will start to lift away, repeat around the bezel as necessary.

Very kind of you Paddy1253 to go out of your way to help That looks closer (though not same colour) to what I have in my vRS that the instructions from www.ledperf.com showed (in French)

Done it, I just used a slim butter knife and it popped off fairly easily. Screwdrivers are smaller so the force is concentrated on the blade and I was concerned I'd damage the plastic.

 

 

What I can say is the lights look amazing! Not going to bother with the footwell lights as I don't think there's existing wiring to accommodate them, unless anyone can tell me differently.

Do you need the canbus defeat lights internally?

Does Canbus, leds mean they have the resistors in them, (which I don't want) I would rather fit a standard led and fix the errors through vcds. Am I right in my thinking?

Edited 1 October, 201510 yr by Iamholam

For a couple of quid I'll give this a bash. The boot lights are pretty pants

Had a look at this, maybe more expensive but has a full set of lights to replace all the interior ones http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161772655804&alt=web

If these are Canbus friendly does that mean they have resistors? Or would they be ok?

Also, does the "Theatre Dimming" on the interior lights still work with LEDs?

Had a look at this, maybe more expensive but has a full set of lights to replace all the interior ones http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161772655804&alt=web

If these are Canbus friendly does that mean they have resistors? Or would they be ok?

Yes they have resistors and will work.

 

But actually all you need should be this, much cheaper option: http://r.ebay.com/luEL2m

Does Canbus, leds mean they have the resistors in them, (which I don't want) I would rather fit a standard led and fix the errors through vcds. Am I right in my thinking?

 

Not sure if for internal lighting there is option to disable CAN check thru VCDS. Anyway you can install non-CANBUS LED's for internal lighting. You will have errors show up in VCDS scan, but you will have no warnings on Multidot / Infotainment.

I have these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-T10-501-W5W-6-LED-5630-SMD-CREE-side-light-bulbs-PURE-WHITE/321633223550?_trksid=p2060778.c100275.m3474&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140813110652%26meid%3D09987a59ebf14f48a6fb441dc349d2d8%26pid%3D100275%26

 

Installed in my side lights, front interior lights (map lights etc) & rear interior lights (roof) in the boot & the light output is really bright enough for me, one thing you have to be careful of is that if you buy led lights for any of the above mentioned areas you have to make sure the length of the whole bulb will fit because if there too long in length then you will not be-able to refit back the housing/plastic, remember the standard bulbs are 501 and there very tiny/small, this is purely for that reason, so refitting back the light surround/housing/plastic will fit & with these bulbs I have linked above you will have no issues whatsoever As I have these fitted everywhere in my MK3 vRS with no warning errors,

 

What I did first when buying these bulbs was to buy just a pair first to see what they are like & to check that they would fit, Once I was happy, I then brought a lot more to finish of the rest of the car etc, The only place I dont have these are in my rear number plate as I have the SuperSkoda full number plate light complete surround replacement 

Some feedback on this. Bulbs arrived today from ebay and I'm fairly unimpressed. The light output is no better than the standard bulbs and IMHO the colour actually makes less visible light/usable light, certainly in the boot area. The colour is very cold and not something that looks nice in the main cabin. It was only a couple a quid and i can confirm no issues replacing them. I will add that didn't add LED strip lights in the boot though, so maybe I misunderstood the 'upgrade' word, but I wouldnt say it's a massive improvement. Just different. I suspect you need to check the product before buying.

Edited 5 October, 201510 yr by Mallettsmallett

Some feedback on this. Bulbs arrived today from ebay and I'm fairly unimpressed. The light output is no better than the standard bulbs and IMHO the colour actually makes less visible light/usable light, certainly in the boot area. The colour is very cold and not something that looks nice in the main cabin. It was only a couple a quid and i can confirm no issues replacing them. I will add that didn't add LED strip lights in the boot though, so maybe I misunderstood the 'upgrade' word, but I wouldnt say it's a massive improvement. Just different. I suspect you need to check the product before buying.

Which ones did you buy?

Which ones did you buy?

Seeing that he replied at post 13 to the original post, I would say he purchased the ones the OP was talking about & from his description would make sense

 

I will go out now to my car a get a few pictures of mine I linked on post 18

Ok so here are a few pics of the led/smd bulbs I linked in post 18

 

 

 

 

 

Excuse picture 2 as it had the flash on from my iphone but you get the general idea

 

& here is a few pics of my rear number plate lights, http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-MEGA-POWER-LED-licence-plate-lights-system-KI-R

 

 

Which ones did you buy?

The op ones posted.

For interior lights and footwell lights you don't need CANBus friendly bulbs and you don't get errors logged either with standard LEDs

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I have these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-T10-501-W5W-6-LED-5630-SMD-CREE-side-light-bulbs-PURE-WHITE/321633223550?_trksid=p2060778.c100275.m3474&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140813110652%26meid%3D09987a59ebf14f48a6fb441dc349d2d8%26pid%3D100275%26

 

 

I just got these today and fitted them tonight. Pictures don't do them justice. What a difference they make inside, everything's much more visible, I really like them. Only oversight was, I bought 8 of them thinking 2 for number plate, 2 for boot and 4 for inside. Only the rear seat light has 3! So I'm 1 short. Oh well, they are cheap enough, I'll just get some more and mibbe do the puddle lights too. (They're 501s too, right?)