I have been trying in vain to remove the T20 Torx screws holding the fuel filter together, but they must be rusted in or something. I've sheared two socket bits already, despite having used copious WD40.

 

Luckily it was the socket bit which broke rather than the torx screw heads. Any other mechanic tricks for me to try?

Try tapping them with a hammer and new torx bit first ???

Edited 12 July, 201411 yr by phillip

Thanks, phillip. I tried exactly that before seeing your post: bought a new Silverline Torx socket set as I couldn't find any T20 on their own. Plenty of WD40, tapping with a hammer and gentle prying with a short torque wrench helped me loosen all but one of the screws. The final one broke the bit without budging.

 

So it cost a further £7.50 to loosen all but one.

Arm yourself with one of these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/360928424506?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

 

Cheap & effective.  They have the advantage that, unlike the simple manual ones, you don't have to hit them with a hammer and risk damage like cracking the fuel filter case.

Drill the head off, careful.

Whats left can be unscrewed using a pair of plaiyers.

Thanks for the tips, guys. There was me thinking I could do the filter change on the cheap. 

 

I guess I'll avoid Silverline next time I buy tools. Their torque wrench and socket set has served me well so far....I'm surprised the T20 socket gave way so easily.

Edited 12 July, 201411 yr by fsa

try using a set of mole grips on the head of the bolt

@skodacarman

Too much for such a small fastener, it'll just shear the bit or cam out the screw head.

You need the downward force of a manual impact driver for small fasteners to prevent such occurrences by driving the bit into the head but there's always the possibility that the screw head will shear off if it's rusted solid.

@fsa

Try tightening the chuck of a drill around the head of the screw and letting rip, anticlockwise of course!

Failing that, as previously mentioned, if you can get in with a good pair of self locking pliers or even GOOD side cutters can be used to bite into the head and turn it.

Not an insurmountable problem, there are of course specialist tools for such jobs but being creative with the average toy box should be enough.

Don't forget to copper grease the new screws.

@skodacarman

Too much for such a small fastener, it'll just shear the bit or cam out the screw head.

You need the downward force of a manual impact driver for small fasteners to prevent such occurrences by driving the bit into the head but there's always the possibility that the screw head will shear off if it's rusted solid.

 

 

Yes, I guess that could happen, and then it would be a lot worse!   

 

I guess I'm put off the hammer-type drivers by once trying to disassemble a motorcycle with one, and making a huge crack in an almost priceless Bonneville alloy crank case.  Never had any trouble with the 12V impact drivers.

 

Another trick is to use a Dremel or even a good old hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the offending bolt and then use a flat blade screwdriver to get it out.

try using a set of mole grips on the head of the bolt

I have to do this with one of mine every time due to some previous ham fisted Skoda mechanic snapping the bit in the bolt head. They are only supposed to be something like 4Nm torque so why they try to over tighten them I don't know.

Arm yourself with one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/360928424506?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

Cheap & effective. They have the advantage that, unlike the simple manual ones, you don't have to hit them with a hammer and risk damage like cracking the fuel filter case.

Or not. That will destroy small fastners.

@skodacarman

Re Bonneville, was it the stator plate screws being awkward by any chance?

The soft screws are always mega tight in the alloy crankcase on any bike I've worked on, it's expected now!

They give with a satisfying loud crack though.

@skodacarman

Re Bonneville, was it the stator plate screws being awkward by any chance?

The soft screws are always mega tight in the alloy crankcase on any bike I've worked on, it's expected now!

They give with a satisfying loud crack though.

 

Sure was.  And the loud crack was from the crankcase!!! :peek:

I do have a dremel, but ill try the drill trick first. Thanks, MicMac and skodacarman.