Little bump for this thread. Any joy getting the new sub working?

Sorry been busy, plus I'm getting old and forgetful!

 

It turns out the JL 6.5" sub isn't duel voice so I didn't go down that route, I'm still looking for an alternative.

 

I'll try and remember to update as and when I source and fit a quality replacement that hopefully improves the bass response.

No worries - thanks for that

I'm not so bothered about loosing a little bit of boot space - how about something like this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-TS-W261D4-10-25cm-Dual-Voice-Coil-Car-Subwoofer-1200W-/191447797261?hash=item2c932d8e0d:g:XjEAAOSwnDxUjC5C

 

I'd be keen to have them switchable so when I need the boot space I can flick it over to the canton and take the sub box out.

I think the biggest it could be is 8", as you only have 200W to play with.

 

I'm looking along the lines of this.

 

http://shop.vibeaudio.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=259

 

In fact I've just ordered one which should be with me tomorrow.

 

I'll just extend the standard wiring and leave the original in place, so as and when I sell the car it's easy to put back to original.

I'd be interested in how that sounds.

 

That sub I linked to has nominal input power of 350 W which means it should take everything and more that the AMP can throw at it. 

 

Being a 10" will mean it'll need a larger enclosure but then I have an estate so that's not an issue.

 

Might see if I can source one locally and see if they'll let me hook it up. 

But the output from the amp for the sub is 200 watts, so it's not got enough oomph to drive it.

It should be enough - the wattage is the max power you can out through it before the amp damages it. It won't make any difference to the sound.

It should be enough - the wattage is the max power you can out through it before the amp damages it. It won't make any difference to the sound.

it will though as with such a low output it won't be able to fully control the larger sub driver unit - under driving a speaker component is usually worse than over driving it ie with higher power. Is the 200w of the canton sub output actually measured in actual RMS watts? I've demo'do it quite extensively and I'd suggest not!

Edited 5 November, 201510 yr by SuperSuperb

We'll see very soon with Butch's woofer turning up very soon. It'll be good too see where the weakest link is

The weakest link is me, should have asked if there was 2 or 4 connections on the enclosure. 

 

Sub arrived this morning, however before they mount it in the enclosure they wire it in parallel so there's only one Pos and one Neg post   .

 

Would anybody know if it would be ok to join both the negative and both the positive cables together, then attach to their respective posts on the sub enclosure?

 

Looking at the link to the Skoda speaker sizes and wattage, it says that the sub is 2x100 Watt so my thinking is by joining them will give the 200 watts total.

The weakest link is me, should have asked if there was 2 or 4 connections on the enclosure. 

 

Sub arrived this morning, however before they mount it in the enclosure they wire it in parallel so there's only one Pos and one Neg post   .

 

Would anybody know if it would be ok to join both the negative and both the positive cables together, then attach to their respective posts on the sub enclosure?

 

Looking at the link to the Skoda speaker sizes and wattage, it says that the sub is 2x100 Watt so my thinking is by joining them will give the 200 watts total.

 

Not knowing anything about car audio apart from where the volume control is, I found this useful

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TM9jHNCh1tM/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_dual.html

Hmmm not sure how the dual coil wiring deals with the dual inputs. Might be working dropping a call to a car audio specialist and see what they think. The last thing you want to do is damage the canton amp.

I was waiting for a call back from Vibe all day yesterday, however it turns out my BT line is U/S!

 

I'll give them a ring from my mobile on Monday and hopefully get a definitive answer. 

I didn't get a chance to ring on Monday, however when I got home from work I'd had an unexpected parcel delivered.

 

Alan at Vibe had tried to ring me on the Friday but as previously said my land line is u/s, so he took it upon himself to send out a replacement four terminal sub connection unit for the enclosure, with a covering letter saying that I have permission to change them and it won't void the warranty.

They haven't even asked for the two terminal unit to be returned!

 

Top customer service from Vibe  :clap: .

 

Just got to get around to changing them over and extend the factory wiring so I can get it up and running.

 

 

To be continued!

Great news! can't wait to hear how you get on

 

Some images of the canton wiring and how you extended it would be great.

 

Cheers

I posted a picture a while back of the differences, but its mostly the Sub, additional speakers throughout the car and a digital DSP and separate amps to send only the required frequencies to those speakers.

 

Post 8 in this thread, the image shows the standard audio to the left, and the Canton in the centre.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/310206-canton-sub-pics/

 

Replacing the factory amp is not possible, because it receives a fibre optic input containing digital data, so in addition to the amp, its also the DAC to get the audio out to the speakers. The speaker outputs are also frequency limited and each is driven separately by the amp.

 

Post 8 is the only post on that page which won't load an image for me 

 

anyone else got the image please?

In and running, however wasn't as easy as I thought it would be.

 

The speaker was wired in series inside, so it wasn't just a case of changing the terminal connection but I had to remove the sub and separate the cable joining one pos that was joined to the neg on the opposite voice coil.

I then had to solder the new terminal mount cables to the respective + and -- on each side of the speaker to each voice coil (hope that makes sense).

 

I purchased some miniature spade connectors from Maplin so I didn't have to cut any of the original wiring loom, these I then pushed into the respective terminal where the original sub wiring disconnects from the Canton sub enclosure, thankfully Skoda have used a simple colour code on the cables, they use brown as the earth colour in the loom and red for the live.

 

In the original connector there is two grey wires and two white, on each of those one has a red tracer and one has a brown tracer, so dead easy to work out, grey with red tracer to the + terminal on one side of the speaker and grey with brown tracer to the -- terminal on the speaker, then likewise on the other voice coil.

 

Where the miniature male connectors fit into the factory loom I used plenty of insulating tape to ensure nothing separates, then it was just a matter of feeding new cable under the side trim to roughly where I wanted the speaker and connected it up.

 

The important bit, the base line sound quality is much much improved (I tried recording it on my phone but all did was distort when I played it back).

 

Photo's to follow.

Thats great news - does it extend the frequency range of the unit? Shame you're quite far away or I'd have asked for a listen before I go out and buy one!

Hopefully attached are a couple of photo's

 

These are the two fittings that needed to be changed over (new one installed).

 

A comparison in size, if you hadn't guessed the Canton "sub" is on the right!

 

All the new connections soldered and heat shrunk, ready for re-installation into the new sub enclosure.

 

 

As for extending the frequencies then a most definite yes, it's not going to give you the response of say a 10/12" sub/matched amp as it's only 6.5", but it's certainly an improvement over the "upgraded" Canton speaker!

 

I haven't played around/revised the settings on the menu yet as the literature from vibe says to "run" the speaker in for around 10 hours before going to mad with it, but first impressions are good.

 

I have left all the original speaker/enclosure in place, so as/when/if I sell the car all I have to do is disconnect the four little male connectors and plug the original wiring loom plug back on to the Canton sub enclosure.

Hopefully attached are a couple of photo's

 

DSC_0204.JPG

These are the two fittings that needed to be changed over (new one installed).

 

DSC_0206.JPG

A comparison in size, if you hadn't guessed the Canton "sub" is on the right!

 

DSC_0205.JPG

All the new connections soldered and heat shrunk, ready for re-installation into the new sub enclosure.

 

 

As for extending the frequencies then a most definite yes, it's not going to give you the response of say a 10/12" sub/matched amp as it's only 6.5", but it's certainly an improvement over the "upgraded" Canton speaker!

 

I haven't played around/revised the settings on the menu yet as the literature from vibe says to "run" the speaker in for around 10 hours before going to mad with it, but first impressions are good.

 

I have left all the original speaker/enclosure in place, so as/when/if I sell the car all I have to do is disconnect the four little male connectors and plug the original wiring loom plug back on to the Canton sub enclosure.

Great work! Do you think the new sub would fit in the Canton enclosure?

I think it would with a little bit of fettling, however there's quite a big difference in the size of the enclosure so I doubt the response would be the same.

 

I meant to try but A, I'm impatient and B, I forgot (old age!).

Would be handy if someone pioneered fitting a decent balance of original enclosure with an uprated subwoofer and some qualitative tests on perceived sound improvement!

This would be the ideal route for me as I don't really want to start ripping out the OEMness of the car already and just to get a bit better response from the stereo

 

Having bought the car 2nd hand anyway the canton was more of a perk than a must have ( the nav however was very, very good to have ).

 

I'd be quite happy to do a more modest peacemeal upgrade of this only if it was worthwhile rather than some whopping great enclosure in the boot, its not that its even a big issue for me but I have noticed the lack of sub performance. Then again I'm not trying to make myself deaf either lol, if I did that I'd go back to playing guitar live.

Post 8 is the only post on that page which won't load an image for me 

 

anyone else got the image please?

Must be imageshack, so I've attached to here in a different way.

The sub enclosure is no "whopping great enclosure", it's actually quite small.

 

It's only 21" long x 8.3" deep and 8.7" high, which is hardly taking up any room in the Octy's cavernous boot.

 

Now it's been in the car for a week or so the subs bedded in and has made a marked improvement in the sound quality  :clap: