Skidding with new rear tyres

[ElectricShepherd]

Whilst budget will always be a concern, I've never scrimped on tyres. That few square inches of black stuff between car and road is all the difference between an effective stop and missing a pedestrian or failing to make a bend and ending up in a tree. Sorry to say it, but I'd get them off pdq and get something better. You live and learn and all that!

[nickgpfc]

The images of the roundabouts only tell part of the story, road conditions will have a large influence on how much grip you get. The first looks to be quite a large roundabout, so depending on which direction you joined and left could include more than one corner maneuver. By the looks of it, the second is a smaller roundabout. Again you've not stated the road conditions or what maneuver you were performing (e.g. just a left turn, or all the way round to go right) nor throttle input. It's very easy to unsettle a car in a corner with an over-zealous right boot. I'd be surprised if every car goes round that one at 25 mph.

 

As other suggested, put them on the front and drive them within their limits for around a 100 miles. The should remove any release agent.

 

If they are still not up to your requirements then adapt your driving technique until such time as you can replace them, namely, drive slowly.

Edited 27 January, 2015 by nickgpfc

[Auric Goldfinger]

I've noticed my front tyres ( Continental ) are starting to loose grip and theres still around 4mm left

 

Time for a change me thinks.     :yes:

[Huskoda]

Continentals, being German, are only really designed to work to 3mm as that is the limit there.

[Aspman]

Cheap tyres tend to be hard because they go for longevity above all else. Makes them noisy and poor in the wet.

 

Even new I've never had car tyres that were really poor from new. Bike tyres I was advised to sandpaper when new to get rid of the releasing compound and to roughen up the surface.

 

If these tyres are really bad then you might have an argument that they are not fit for purpose. If you're going to go down that road I'd do it quickly.

 

I used to run Maxxis MAZ1 on the VRS they are a 'cheap' tyre. Lots of grip wet and dry but the trade off is that they are very noisy and have a poor efficiency rating. My tyres doing them (MAZ3) fitted for  £91.

[nickguzzi]

When I bought my scooter - just for popping the few miles into town - the previous owner had kindly fitted new, unknown, tyres for the MOT.  The first time out was very scary.  However, once I had scrubbed them in they now grip reasonably well. 

 

As mentioned, the mould release will be the first problem to overcome, then scrubbed to profile, then they may not be too bad for gentle use.  Once the warmer weather arrives, maybe that will improve them too.

I'd try them on the front, which will scrub them in quicker, and if you can stand to continue using them, will wear out quicker.

[IngusSeflers]

Are we talking about cheap Chinese summer rubber in January?  :peek: 

[patrolman]

I would stick with the Nexen tyres, have had several sets with no problems plus you get a damage and puncture warranty,

 some major manufactures fit as stranded. I have N8000 on my Scout.

 

http://www.nexen-tyres.co.uk/

[ed209]

Also, I usually would not put brand new tyres on the rear. 

 

Put them onto the front and move the worn ones to the rear. 

 

New tyres can sometimes be a little slippy, but I've not heard of those brand either. 

 

 

dad idea, newer tyres on the front than the rear will mean rear has less grip therefore will me more prone to oversteer. Generally this means the back end will go before the front and any accident you have is likely to be bigger.

 

New tyres of the front for me.

[nick74]

As others have said, it may just be the release agent on the tyres with them being new.

 

I had a set of four Falken tyres fitted last summer. For the first 20 miles or so they were so bad they were actually very scary. Like driving on ice, despite it being a mild dry summers day.

From about 20 - 200 miles they improved a bit but were still moderately crap. From 200 miles they started to get ok-ish. With 500+ miles on them they improved into some of the best tyres I've ever used! I had been ready to send them back up to that point.

 

So don't write them off until the release agent has properly worn off the tread. Just don't write the car off in the meantime.....

[Huskoda]

dad idea, newer tyres on the front than the rear will mean rear has less grip therefore will me more prone to oversteer. Generally this means the back end will go before the front and any accident you have is likely to be bigger.

 

New tyres of the front for me.

Unless the new tyres are cheap chinese teflon crap, then you get exactly that.

[devonutopia]

I would stick with the Nexen tyres, have had several sets with no problems plus you get a damage and puncture warranty,

 some major manufactures fit as stranded. I have N8000 on my Scout.

 

http://www.nexen-tyres.co.uk/

 

I found out about nexen through the tyre reviews website.  I was looking for the cheapest high profile, narrow tyres I could find as a decent spare pair, and also for quarter miles, and a set of Nexen eco-tyres came up at a good price, about £35 each, and were pretty well favoured.  I have no regrets about buying them either (175/60 R16 size)

[paddypaws]

As its only 24 hours since you had them done the tyres will have a  mould release agent on them and will need scrubbing in a bit as they will be a bit smooth, even expensive branded tyres are a bit rubbish for the first 50-100 miles. They may not be the best tyres you've bought, but once they have scrubbed in they may be ok. +1 for Nexens, I've had several pairs and they are good mid range tyres for the money.

[sniper29a]

FIND A CAR PARKING LOT AND DO SOME DRIFTING - within few minutes, you will feel clutch and also find out what those tires are about ;-)

 

Continental, Yokohama don't use any protective layer - to be honest, i've never seen it on any tires I used to use. Usually, it is just in plastic bags.

[Rizmod]

Last week I had a tyre replaced (pot hole damage) by Kwikfit.  Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance. It let go round a bend driving home so I checked the pressure.  They'd put somewhere between 35 and 40 psi in it!  Putting it back to 31psi it's now fine.  I had this some years ago with 4 new tyres on a Peugeot 605 and it was terrible until I lowered the pressures to the correct setting.

Edited 27 January, 2015 by Rizmod

[fsa]

I am very happy to report that the tyre fitter agreed to refund the cost of the budgets. It meant I had to go for the only mids they had: some Coopers for 105 a corner. It has some lifetime warranty thing with it. But I have learnt my lesson now. I will never EVER scrimp on tyres!

[fairlight5]

I am very happy to report that the tyre fitter agreed to refund the cost of the budgets. It meant I had to go for the only mids they had: some Coopers for 105 a corner. It has some lifetime warranty thing with it. But I have learnt my lesson now. I will never EVER scrimp on tyres!

That's a good result.

Those black circles are the only thing between you and the ditch!

Hope you get on better with the Coopers.

[brad1.8T]

FIND A CAR PARKING LOT AND DO SOME DRIFTING - within few minutes, you will feel clutch and also find out what those tires are about ;-)

 

Continental, Yokohama don't use any protective layer - to be honest, i've never seen it on any tires I used to use. Usually, it is just in plastic bags.

it isn't a protective layer.  It's a release agent to stop the tyre sticking in the mould during the manufacture process. 

 

Some manufacturers use chrome molds that don't require a release agent.  Others use a silicone or solvent or even aqueous based release agent. 

 

If you aren't sure what release agent (or fitting lubricant) has been used then it's best to give the tread a wipe over with some form of oil/grease remover.  We used to use Methyl Ethyl ketone but that's probably an illegal substance now.  Something like methylated spirits would be a (poor) substitute.

[fsa]

Thanks everybody for all your tips, advice and telling off. I've definitely learnt my lesson.

[Aspman]

I am very happy to report that the tyre fitter agreed to refund the cost of the budgets. It meant I had to go for the only mids they had: some Coopers for 105 a corner. It has some lifetime warranty thing with it. But I have learnt my lesson now. I will never EVER scrimp on tyres!

 

Nothing wrong with looking for a bargain but worth check the name of a tyre online before you buy.

 

Quite often you can find a cheaper tyre made by a decent premium brand i.e. Kleber and Riken are owened by Michelin.

 

also Falkon and Maxxis are decent lower midrange tyres.

[FatblokeVRS]

THese are good:

 

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s134p111670/Uniroyal_Tyres_Car_Uniroyal_RainSport3_Uniroyal_Rain_Sport_3_-_225_40_R18_92Y_XL_FR_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_72dB

[mccarf]

FIND A CAR PARKING LOT AND DO SOME DRIFTING - within few minutes, you will feel clutch and also find out what those tires are about ;-)

 

Continental, Yokohama don't use any protective layer - to be honest, i've never seen it on any tires I used to use. Usually, it is just in plastic bags.

The 4 yokos I put on a couple of months ago had me wheelspinning everywhere for the first 50m with light throttle . After doing some miles on them they turned out to be the best tyres I've ever had, so I think there was probably a layer of some sort.

[sniper29a]

The 4 yokos I put on a couple of months ago had me wheelspinning everywhere for the first 50m with light throttle . After doing some miles on them they turned out to be the best tyres I've ever had, so I think there was probably a layer of some sort.

I used to have Yoko A.Drive on my Subaru - never had problem with sliding :-D Perhaps, I'm lucky ;-)

 

Yoko A.Drive is very good tyre - wet performance brilliant. It is a soft compound - today, I would wreck it within 1000km.

[fsa]

Once again, thanks so much. I'll do my research properly next time. Most of the time I buy tyres when the proverbial hits the fan and I have an unrepairable flat. It's not something I normally plan for, like when I service the oil and filters. I will definitely add this to my list now.

 

On another note, I could only manage about 39mpg brim-to-brim on my spirited highway driving (despite keeping up with service etc thoroughly). I thought it might be the throttle body needing cleaning or something. But to my surprise, this weekend I managed 45mpg with the same style of driving. I knew quality tyres helped mpg, but didn't imagine to this extent!