ok. Sorry to previous poster. Hadn't seen the post.

 

After replacing the fine oil separator / PCV for something like £80 at last service in March about 6,000 miles ago, the problem seems to have gone away.

 

Normally after a few thousand miles the driveshaft has wet oil residue and the diverter valve and intake boss would be covered in oil. Having just checked car today, there was very little oil. Nothing like before.

 

So in my case it appears to have been the PCV even though it didn't seem to be causing other issues. Quite surprised. I now have a brand new spare diverter valve as I was going to replace that too thinking the o ring was leaking.

 

thanks to @rayx for the detailed advice on Fine oil separator variants a while back. 

 

Ps the bit of oil residue visible and the dirt build up over the top of oil on the driveshaft is old I believe before replacing the PCV. Previously it would be visibly oily, wet and coated.

Edited 13 November, 20187 yr by TheClient

On 18/03/2017 at 06:39, rayx said:

Try this, but in case PCV can't cope with too much oil,
this will only sort out the mess around and not oil consumption.
You say engine take not much oil until now ?

I have problem with Oil consumption.

 

On 18/03/2017 at 07:05, TheClient said:

2.0 TSI  ,  EA888

The car does not require topping up between 12 month services, so oil usage is not a problem. 

EA888  Gen-2
Engine uses 0,5 Lit / 1000 Km.  😡

 

On 18/03/2017 at 07:39, rayx said:

You have now cleaned the pipe and hose, in case it will get oily again, you know what to check, look at the part number on the pipe as currect one might be previous version.

When engine take no oil, that is great, so I guess it might be produced after June 2011.
It is common the EA888 from autumn 2008 till June 2011 have bad design of piston rings,
so when on LongLife oil service, it can get around 100 kkm in trouble.
Good oil and service per 1 year/15000 km max can avoid possible high oil consumption issue.

Engine build date:   2011-09-11
I use 100 % fully synthetic engine oil, 5w-40, VW Norm:  502.00
Running max 15000 Km between oil & filter changes.

 

On 18/03/2017 at 08:36, rayx said:

Well, the diagram picture is from ETKA, VAG parts catalogue, and regarding pos 10 it says that when you order it,
you get it together with pos. 9+11+12 as pos. 9 is not possible to order separate.
Yes, according TPI (Technical Product Information) buletin they changed outlet details on the pipe as  "Deviations in tolerances for the dimensions and quality of the surface"   found on previous revision.

 

May I know how many km/miles engine has now ?
Beside piston/rings issue, they have yet problematic chain tensioner and chain design prone to jump and extend,
solved in March 2012 with tensioner 06K109467K , all previous versions 06H___ N, T or AB are prone to fail ...
Modified chains available first from end 2013,  last revision is 06K109158AD.

My engine:  151 000 Km.
Engine build date:   2011-09-11
What should I watch out for ?
What parts should I replace ?

 

On 19/07/2017 at 12:09, TheClient said:

I still have drops of oil collecting around diverter valve assembly, on the metal connection spigot to intercooler pipework, some on the heat shielding of the oil supply pipe.

It is enough to continue to drop onto the driveshaft and spray over the suspension arms.
 

Having done a bit of googling all these seem pretty common problems in Golf-6 forums.

 

e.g. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=225620.0

 

However, the suggestions are numerous and the trail goes cold at the end with a lot of posts suggesting after replacing intake pipes and PCV pipe connection and cleaning up, the problem came back.  

 

1- Replace PCV

2- Replace PCV breather pipe to intake pipe 

3- Replace intake pipework to turbo with the new connection detail

4- Replace oil return and or oil feed pipes to turbo and gaskets.

5 - Replace Diverter Valve

 

So I need to be a bit more selective.
Anyone with experience of having fixed underside of turbo oil dripping in a EA888 ?

 

I'll update once I've re-inspected under the car but if I can not identify any cause beyond the oil around the diverter and the oil around the intake pipe connection to turbo,
I think I'd be tempted to replace the PCV, PCV Breather tube and maybe the diverter incase the O-ring is not sealing against the turbo body very well.

Any ideas or specific experience in solving ? 

 

My engine is 100 % dry on the outside but have a oil drinking problem inside......  😇

 

On 21/07/2017 at 17:50, TheClient said:

Checked top banjo fitting for oil feed to turbo with an inspection mirror (saved having to remove intake pipework and heat shield).  
It looks fine there is definitely no oil quantity or wetting of oil around that fitting.

 

Also, looked again at both ends of the oil return of the Turbo and the block connection side of the oil feed. No problems.

 

There was no split evident in the oil return pipe or the oil feed pipe that was visible.
The only bit you can't see is the last section of the oil feed pipe as it has a unsulation cover slip fitting over it.
But I doubt that would be it as it would all be concentrating at the end of the pipe where the insulation ends and dripping noticeably from there after travelling down.

 

So out of my list, that leaves:

 

1)  Diverter valve O-ring passing - replace diverter.

2)  PCV fine oil separator not working correctly (excessive oil vapour) - replace oil separator and possibly PCV to intake pipe (brittle easily broken)

3)  Air intake connection to top of turbo leaking condensed PCV oil vapour down outer underside of turbo and collecting at lowest points - replace intake set assembly

I haven't yet taken another photo from the top of the intake pipe to turbo which was really oily before.
It is not too bad now, with just a hint of seepage evident after 4 months / nearly 3k miles.
I will add one later.  But as I didn't take the whole flexible fitting and bottom spring clamp off the turbo last time, the lower side of it is still oily underneath. It is very difficult to see just how oily though.

 

There is still enough oil to form a drop on the charged air spigot on bottom of turbo and it has been dripping onto the drive shaft. But I still don't need to add  any oil.

Can someone explain what this  PCV Fine oil separator  is ?

 

On 13/11/2018 at 17:20, TheClient said:

After replacing the fine oil separator / PCV  about 6,000 miles ago, the problem seems to have gone away.

 

Normally after a few thousand miles the driveshaft has wet oil residue and the diverter valve and intake boss would be covered in oil.
Having just checked car today, there was very little oil. Nothing like before.

 

So in my case it appears to have been the PCV even though it didn't seem to be causing other issues.
Quite surprised.
I now have a brand new spare diverter valve as I was going to replace that too thinking the o ring was leaking.

 

Thanks to @rayx for the detailed advice on Fine oil separator variants a while back. 

 

Any information about this ?


 

@2stroke

 

The PCV is a diaphragm and valve arrangement that controls the re-circulation of crankcase gasses back to the intake manifold to be burned in combustion. (Edit: and in the arrangement for the CCZA engine is oil vapour catchment arrangement, hence the term fine oil separator FOS)

 

Mine was definitely contributing to oil residue externally.  It resolved that problem.  Mine, luckily had no significant usage problem.

 

I sold it a few months ago at about 70k miles. So a little less than you are at now.

 

I have seen posts on here one recently from a car in Australia that suggests faulty PCV can cause noticeable oil consumption. For the price around £90 gbp I'd replace it with a VW genuine item.  They don't hold up that well after 4 or 5 years. It is an easy DIY job mounted on top of the engine with a few torx screws. Just need to be careful with plastic pipe clips and do not drop anything in the engine cam cover when open!!!

 

As for your other information, you've done everything I did to maintain engine cleanliness.  Fixed servicing 15k km/ 12 months, much better for the engine. 5W40 is a bit more resistant to consumption at higher temperatures. If the turbo seals are good, no play etc, then it can only really be the dreaded piston ring clogging or I suppose valve stem seals. But it is usually the former.

 

At early stages of higher usage, compression test will not show any issues either. I'd change out the PCV first before going any deeper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 27 September, 20214 yr by TheClient

2 hours ago, TheClient said:

@2stroke

 

The PCV is a diaphragm and valve arrangement that controls the re-circulation of crankcase gasses back to the intake manifold to be burned in combustion.
And in the arrangement for the CCZA engine is oil vapour catchment arrangement, hence the term fine oil separator FOS.

 

Mine was definitely contributing to oil residue externally. 
It resolved that problem. 
Mine, luckily had no significant usage problem.

 

I sold it a few months ago at about 70k miles.
So a little less than you are at now.

 

I have seen posts on here one recently from a car in Australia that suggests faulty PCV can cause noticeable oil consumption.
For the price around £ 90 gbp  I'd replace it with a VW genuine item. 
They don't hold up that well after 4 or 5 years.
 

As for your other information, you've done everything I did to maintain engine cleanliness. 
Fixed servicing 15k km/ 12 months, much better for the engine.
5W-40 is a bit more resistant to consumption at higher temperatures.
If the turbo seals are good, no play etc, then it can only really be the dreaded piston ring clogging or I suppose valve stem seals.
But it is usually the former.

 

At early stages of higher usage, compression test will not show any issues either.
I'd change out the PCV first before going any deeper.

I have the all BLACK PCV version # 06H 103 495 E 

Should I replace it with a BLACK or WHITE PCV ?
What part # should i replace it with ?

Edited 27 September, 20214 yr by 2stroke

2 hours ago, 2stroke said:

I have the all BLACK PCV version # 06H 103 495 E 

Should I replace it with a BLACK or WHITE PCV ?
What part # should i replace it with ?

 

 

If E is installed that would mean 06H103495E > 06H103495AC > 06H103495AH with AH being the latest part number (as at March 2017) when the linked thread was written.

 

But, that does not seem to align with your car engine mfr being 11 Sep 2011, as from 14 June 2010 I would expect the following part journey:

 

 

H=> AD =>AJ (most current as at March 2017 original thread detail) .

 

I've never seen a white coloured PCV on a CCZA engine?

 

 

 

45 minutes ago, TheClient said:

If E is installed that would mean 06H103495E  ---->  06H103495AC  ---->  06H103495AH  with AH being the latest part number (as at March 2017).

 

🤔 ....But, that does not seem to align with your car engine mfr 2011-09-11 
as from 14 June 2010 I would expect the following part journey:

H=> AD =>AJ   ( most current as at March 2017 original thread detail ).

 

I've never seen a White coloured PCV on a CCZA engine.

Yes, my engine is built:      2011-09-11
Engine code:    CDAA

( 2012 ) Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI  SCOUT.

 

Edited 27 September, 20214 yr by 2stroke

2 hours ago, 2stroke said:

Yes, my engine is built:      2011-09-11
Engine code:    CDAA

( 2012 ) Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI  SCOUT.

 

Oh OK. CDAA. Scout ok. That makes more sense. I was assuming CCZA 2.0tsi.  Must be AH or a subsequent revision (if it exists) after March 2017.  

On 27/09/2021 at 21:43, TheClient said:

Oh OK.  CDAA.   Scout ok.
That makes more sense. I was assuming CCZA 2.0 TSI. 
Must be:  06H 103 495 AH