^ M'Lady thanks you for the response to her comment.  They are the first 'Likes' she's had here

If I were you I would do it myself. I have always done my own servicing for over fifty years, then you can be happy knowing it was done.

41 minutes ago, Anzio said:

If I were you I would do it myself. I have always done my own servicing for over fifty years, then you can be happy knowing it was done.

Problem is that while the car is under makers warranty you need proof of servicing with makers parts and to their schedule to make a warranty claim. Maker will make it very difficult to make a claim under warranty and impossible to get a goodwill claim after warranty has expired unless serviced by main dealer.

7 hours ago, Anzio said:

If I were you I would do it myself. I have always done my own servicing for over fifty years, then you can be happy knowing it was done.

I agree wholeheartedly, but a Kia warranty, for instance, involves 7 years of approved servicing to consider.

Long warranty periods combined with fixed price servicing makes my personal preference problematic.

Not to mention an aging back, a pre ecu background and mechanical biased tool selection.

What to do ultimately comes down to your circumstances........beyond fluids there's not much I can do these days and only after the warranty period at that.

What do YOU do?.......it's worth a thread I recon 

 

Expatman, Ryeman, both very sensible replies, and agree wholeheartedly with an ageing back. I've always used genuine service parts from the dealer, kept all the receipts and never had a problem not having a stamped up service book. I must also say in all my motoring years I have never had to make a warranty claim. I suppose I just like getting dirty, and doing my own thing.

13 minutes ago, Anzio said:

Expatman, Ryeman, both very sensible replies, and agree wholeheartedly with an ageing back. I've always used genuine service parts from the dealer, kept all the receipts and never had a problem not having a stamped up service book. I must also say in all my motoring years I have never had to make a warranty claim. I suppose I just like getting dirty, and doing my own thing.

Like you, I've never needed a stamped book when selling privately; but then they were relatively simple mechanicals with not much more than fluids and a preventative eye and attitude.

Under our current fixed price servicing (FPS) I wonder if the brake pads will be discarded so early..........funny how the wipers are now into their 3rd year. It seems they don't wear much these days....hmmmm

We have 4 cars in our household. Only 2 have sump drain plugs.

I ALWAYS suck the oil out. It's been proven to be far more effective in removing old oil and contaminants than letting the oil drain using gravity, which usually leaves the crud just sitting on the base of the sump pan where as the suction pump actually hovers up these particles.

Problem solved!

 

 

Only for garages that have a big enough turnover in the units to install thousands of pounds worth of kit to recycle those units.
That will be the end of the owner doing an oil and filter change themselves.

4 hours ago, Urrell said:

Only for garages that have a big enough turnover in the units to install thousands of pounds worth of kit to recycle those units.
That will be the end of the owner doing an oil and filter change themselves.

Isn't that the point (((((

16 hours ago, Urrell said:

Only for garages that have a big enough turnover in the units to install thousands of pounds worth of kit to recycle those units.
That will be the end of the owner doing an oil and filter change themselves.

 

The point is that the cells get returned for recycling (both the oil and the cells), not recycled at the workshop.  You can do an oil change with no tools, no ramps, no special training.  The cell does an electronic 'handshake' with the car, so almost impossible to use the wrong oil, the cell can meter oil into the engine as required and you can use a different oil for different occasions (eg drive to a track, swap out your road oil for your track oil, then afterwards replace the road oil for the drive home).

 

Since the oil stays segregated in the cells, the recycling of the oil can result in a higher quality output (rather than recycling the mish-mash of who-knows-what from the 'waste oil barrel' at a workshop).  The cell can meter the oil at startup to allow a quicker warm-up, hence reduced emissions and increased efficiency.  Plus, since the oil stays in an effectively closed system, there's little opportunity for any spillage.

 

The change-it-yourself market is pretty small these days but whilst this isn't aimed at them, it would actually make it easier.

 

"I'm just off outside to change the oil"

"OK, I'll put the kettle on"

...

"All done - is my tea brewed yet?"

53 minutes ago, weasley said:

The change-it-yourself market is pretty small these days but whilst this isn't aimed at them, it would actually make it easier.

 

Easier yes but economically viable?
Can you imagine what an "Oil Change" would cost with that system?
That's why it's shown fitted to money no object cars.

Just now, Urrell said:

 

Easier yes but economically viable?
Can you imagine what an "Oil Change" would cost with that system?
That's why it's shown fitted to money no object cars.

...and it was a promotional video 

I'd imagine a truck version would be more likely, particularly for time stressed owner drivers. 

It is fitted to a "money no object" car as a first demonstration of concept in a 'production' car.  Yes, it is a small production run but nonetheless it gets the concept out there under a modicum of control.  With further mass adoption, of course, the cost to serve will reduce.  Additionally, for the workshop services, you will essentially be swapping the cost of 'oil' for labour charges - the cell may cost more than some oil and a filter, but it will essentially be free from labour.

Would this only work for dry sump engines?

Most,  if not all, of the normal cars bought are wet sump.

From the original post about how to change oil..........

I started in the trade in 1965, and was trained as follows:- engine to be at running temperature ( switched off! ), remove sump drain plug, ( keep hand out of way from hot oil trying to find the way up your sleeve ). Leave to drain for a few minutes whilst changing filter, remove and clean dip-stick and oil filler cap then replace sump drain plug. Measure amount of oil to refill and replenish engine leaving about a pint ( this WAS in 1965! ) in the measuring jug. Replace dip-stick and filler cap, start engine check  oil light on dash goes out to ensure oil pump is working and check filter and drain plug for leaks. Switch off engine, do a couple of other jobs such as changing air filter and then finally check oil level on dip-stick and use final pint if necessary. 

This method has served me and my family cars well during the ensuing years, my theory is that the sudden rush of hot oil takes all impurities ( there is a more 'common' motor trade word for 'impurities' ! ) out of the sump and is far superior to sucking out methods which  I would NOT approve on any of my family cars. 

We have recently run a Polo 1.0 upto 100,000 miles and one of the Fabias in my avatar ( a 1.2, three cylinder ) upto 149,000 miles using the above method with annual or 12,000 mile oil & filter change intervals.

Some may say I'm a bit extreme but it satisfies me to love my engines.

EV's will have 'No sump' and Hybrids with small Petrol or Diesel Engines can have any sump that the Euro 7 emissions vehicles get.

 

So nice new technology to use when new technology is introduced, or just something born too late to make much impact, 

but with further development might be adopted, but dont hold your breath and the Patent will need to be very good as a better / cheaper / more efficient design will be available from others.

Mahle or the likes as they develop the engine components like Water Pump / Supercharger / Alternators that are needed with efficient engines.

 

New light oils are developed for new low emission engines to work with Electric Motors and gearing.

53 minutes ago, Liger1956 said:

Would this only work for dry sump engines?

Most,  if not all, of the normal cars bought are wet sump.

 

Available for both - dry sump has a scavenge pump anyway and wet sump version will have one for putting into 'service mode' to evacuate oil to the cell for changing.

40 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

EV's will have 'No sump' and Hybrids with small Petrol or Diesel Engines can have any sump that the Euro 7 emissions vehicles get.

 

So nice new technology to use when new technology is introduced, or just something born too late to make much impact, 

but with further development might be adopted, but dont hold your breath and the Patent will need to be very good as a better / cheaper / more efficient design will be available from others.

Mahle or the likes as they develop the engine components like Water Pump / Supercharger / Alternators that are needed with efficient engines.

 

New light oils are developed for new low emission engines to work with Electric Motors and gearing.

 

Projections expect EVs to become around 6% of global fleet by 2035, so big growth but still relatively small.  In contrast, HC-fuelled cars are expected to double in the same time period.  Also, EVs might not use much motor oil, but they use a lot of coolant and other fluids such as transmission, greases etc.  And there is going to be a continuing large demand for commercial vehicles. running diesel engines.

Only 6% Globally in another 18years, really?  

They should ask Derren Brown what he predicts after VW's cheating and opening that can of worms.

 

Just as long as the chancers at Main Dealers do not add 'Environmental Disposal' as an extra as some try now to dispose of Oil & Filter.

What job do they think they are doing when doing a service other than being required to dispose (sell on) the used oil, and have Oil filter collected.

Electric vehicles to be 35% of global new car sales by 2040 _ Bloomberg New Energy Finance.mhtml

Edited 22 March, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

The uderbonnet space would have to be enlarged considerably.

Maybe the space might make access to some vulnerable components easier when removed though.

The car and engine have to be designed with the cell at the outset; the cell doesn't have to be under the bonnet either.

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but car went into dealership last week for the first "oil change service" at 9300 miles.

The technician agreed to drain the oil through the sump plug (since I'd asked so nicely!) even though that meant he wouldn't be able to achieve the service in the time specified by Skoda as he'd have to remove the engine undertray (in my case the RRP sumpguard) which pushes the job over the 0.9hr (or did he say 0.6hr?) allowed. And by 'ek, he was right. It does add nearly 10 minutes to remove & refit the guard.

But I got the oil change done the way I have always done it myself, and I'm a happy Skoda owner as a result!

 

(Mind you, I cannot see how the filter can be changed on the 1.4TSi without removing the undertray/sumpguard as it's almost at the bottom of the engine anyway!)

 

Off to look for my hard had now in case my post is misunderstood once again and results in another batch of off tangent reactions!

Edited 17 April, 20179 yr by speedsport