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LED indicator for low beam

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I have a lesser reminder and I do not know how to solve it.
Maxidot contains space in the background foil probably for more LEDs indicators than the factory. I also found something similar to the low beam headlamp

 

20170307_172937.thumb.jpg.943bdf88742788c5a0bbd96b154ec977.jpg

 

What with this:
- I added the LED
- I did not have a 100 Ohm resistor, so I replaced with the 120 ohm
- When the lights are switched on, the indicator light does not light up
- I probably have the correct orientation (anode / cathode) (picture below)
- Is there a need to pull some cable between the light switch / BCM unit / Maxidot ?

 

20170516_172826.thumb.jpg.060fe763b93851c7eef2b757cf0a603e.jpg

 

Smaller layout. If someone has ideas or the knowledge to properly involve them, I will be happy if they share. I hope it is quite understandable

 

20170516_173456.thumb.jpg.46f06260eddc2d01391682ef58927446.jpg

 

If necessary, I have a VCDS home diagnosis. But I do not know if it will help or it will be a HW issue :blink:

 

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sorry for my english :) 

Edited by wirer

  • Author

some schematic...

light switch is connected to BCM eletronics, BCM is conected to Maxidot

 

5968d836a71c4_Snmkaobrazovky(133).thumb.png.cf3dd8181b6b8ac108584a464cc24238.png

5968d8397e752_Snmkaobrazovky(135).png.9045be93c23b971ed8896c9260e50e31.png

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Follow the track I've marked, through the via-hole arrowed, and see where it goes to next.

 

If it goes straight to a pin of a large IC, you can probably conclude that the BCM and Instruments module are not sharing (via CAN) the necessary information about the (dipped beam) lights being switched on. If the track goes to another omitted component (e.g. a transistor), you may be able to get things working by fitting that device.

20170516_173456_thumb_jpg_46f06260eddc2d01391682ef58927446.jpg

  • Author

good idea ! :clap:

 

at the moment i have not more photos, only this from last dissassembly. when i have more time, dissassembly it again and check

 

20170307_172631.thumb.jpg.398bd211d545fbe5a8d509d23af6534b.jpg 20170307_173507.thumb.jpg.4faaf8a15364e40f49b1d5c49ad4d50c.jpg

 

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sorry for my english

I would have expected some extra device (FET) to need to be added as well. Although some micro controllers can source enough current to drive LEDS they can't source enough for lots of LEDs. It could be a multiple driver package, too.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

to turn it back a little and close it down :)

from the last post I had a few attempts. about 2 or 3 were not successful, but I do not want to give up. I've been driving with a light for about two months, but most users have comments on the selected orange (yellow) color.

 

20170902_150953.thumb.jpg.19796d7510cba6237cdbee04c80f3a93.jpg IMG_20171205_154749.thumb.jpg.0480111c22979ad8bb501fb6f4e5eee3.jpg

 

 

so last night I made the last change to the original green color. I used the LED from the light switch to have the same shade and color.

 

IMG_20171211_182212.thumb.jpg.80178eb1494518690e3c65b748556755.jpg IMG_20171211_183347.thumb.jpg.42c4d76ce5519872cdcd897bfb68a15f.jpg

 

I think it did. I may slightly adjust the brightness for the next project

 

IMG_20171211_215628.thumb.jpg.875b5c0028c6c9411fb8be9cc6d5549b.jpg IMG_20171211_215743.thumb.jpg.bbf9b567b72804bbb788e4bdd579dde4.jpg

 

sorry for my english

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Congratulations!

Did you find that you needed to add another transistor? Can you tell us exactly what was required so others can also succeed, please?

  • Author

the solution is a bit weird. no transistor is added, the connection to the original board is not changed. I prepared a LED + resistor, fed two cables. into the white plastic around it slightly cut to pass through the cables. The LED sticks to the resistor's foot and glues. not to worry. on the back side of the LED is attached a textile insulating tape (not to touch the printed circuit board). a connector is stuck on the back of the dashboard so that it can be removed from the car at any time. the cables are 2 - one for grounding (minus the LED pole), the other is connected to the front dipped beam signal directly to the BCM unit (terminal T46b, pin 5 or 44)

 

if someone has a better solution, let me use it. I did not want to interfere unnecessarily with the board when I almost interjected it

 

IMG_20171211_185946.thumb.jpg.eded45d7eed67dcd3e2e84e50f45f5ca.jpg IMG_20171211_184919.thumb.jpg.9d42219fa53c0f348ef56254f65fb030.jpg IMG_20171211_183647.thumb.jpg.287dee8adee792bae584788d137d23f6.jpg IMG_20171211_183641.thumb.jpg.efadde76476e5958883b41b844007e92.jpg IMG_20171211_183610.thumb.jpg.8eb333f398a535e8f35548c86361c79d.jpg

 

in Slovak:

riešenie je trošku divné. nepridáva sa tranzistor, nemení sa zapojenie na pôvodnej doske. pripravil som si LED + rezistor, napajkoval dva káble. do bieleho plastu okolo mierne zarezal, aby tadiaľ prešli káble. LED drží na nohe rezistora a prilepená lepidlom. aby nelietala. zo zadnej strany LED nalepená textilná izolačná páska (aby sa nedotkla plošného spoja). na zadnom plaste prístrojovej dosky je prilepený konektor, aby bolo možné kedykoľvek budíky vybrať z auta. káble sú 2 - jeden na ukostrenie (mínus pól LED), druhý je napojený na signál predných stretávacích svetiel priamo na BCM jednotke (svorkovnica T46b, pin 5 alebo 44)

 

ak má niekto lepšie riešenie, nechám sa použiť. nechcel som zbytočne zasahovať do dosky, keď som si ju takmer odpiekol 

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