High pressure in cooling system

[Torbo]

I have had trouble with the coolant coolant on my Fabia 1.4 2001 model. When driving a little, it's not a big problem, but when my son used it, the temperature went up - the meter go to red!

What pressure shall i have?

Have read that the head gasket on these are a weakness and took the job. I found out in a bad condition, and it could look like it had leaked both between cylinder two and three and between cooling system and compression room.

When I also found water in the pan I was confident that this should go well. There was also "oil" or mayonnaise in the cooling water reservoir that was not water-based / miscible with water.

Should you have goal HC in the cooling water before I started, all the indications indicated top counts. So was also the case.

In the process I found some corrosion in cylinder three, but apparently ok.?

Also found that the wet cylinder linings were slightly moving (be careful), but they thought they were clamped in place with a new cover.

A little scared that the paneling below the cylinders has a bit of leakage?

Took a small cushion on the valves, but they looked nice .... The top cover became the planet on sandboard, something that has always worked.

Rid 250 kilometer today without leakage or dissolving fluid but I have the impression that the engine is running a bit too hot and I have to wait longer before I can loosen the lid on the exhaust tank. Or does it flood - sprinkles it up?

Also, are the radiator hoses extra hard? So I have to measure the pressure?

Also suspects the thermostat, as the thermostatic house is rebuilt to use a regular thermostat for 9 pound, versus 90 pound.?

Can the thermostat be mounth wrong way?  

Also suspects the filling cap for the expansion tank a little? Should not there be an overpressure valve there? Can it have sealed on the well of "mayonnaise" in the cooling water?

The top cover looked very good and was only slightly bent, approx. 0.05 mm.

No leaks outside!

Many questions, but are anyone who have good guidance for further "research" here I would appreciate it!

Common mistakes in abnormal pressure in the cooling system? - short version?

 

Can I insert a car valve somewhere in the system to clear the pressure? - suggestions here? Buy pressure gauge?

[Torbo]

I tested HC in the cooling system to day, and it was ok - around 20-30. 

 

If the gasket is gone the value will be 200 - 2000, I think...

 

But the pressure in the system about 3 psi 

After stop it goes up  6 psi...

 

Noe I mistake the thermostat?

 

Edited 3 August, 2017 by Torbo

[sepulchrave]

Flush the cooling system backwards and forwards, you may have oil sludge in the heater and radiator matrix. Replace the thermostat as well, they're cheap, it may not be opening fully which is possibly why the HG failed. Finally check the cooling fan comes on.

[Torbo]

Thanks! I think I will change the thermostat now! If it don't work I will clean the system again! - as you say...

The cooling fan comes on, but it is working very quick, only about 15 second every time when the engine is running on the parking place. To short? 

Bad sensor?

Waterpump?

What is normal on these cars?

Edited 4 August, 2017 by Torbo

[Breezy_Pete]

That sounds like the low speed fan function has failed, so it is cycling straight to the high/full speed whenever the coolant gets hot enough to trigger that (102°C, from memory, too hot).

It's very common for the low speed function to fail, see here:

 

[Torbo]

12 minutes ago, Wino said:

That sounds like the low speed fan function has failed, so it is cycling straight to the high/full speed whenever the coolant gets hot enough to trigger that (102°C, from memory, too hot).

It's very common for the low speed function to fail, see here:

 

Interesting, thanks! I was thinking about it, but since it work a little, i think that was enough? The thermostat is from a Volvo inside the house. It has worked i to years. But to better get the air out of th system, i Drilled a 2 mm hole in the valve, and i worked. It will may be take one minute more to worm the engine, but thats no problem.  Now I will go outside and look at the fan first... 

[Torbo]

checked fan, and the brushes, and the was ok, no wear at all. The pessure is now 3 psi (ok) but the thermostat is may be "Slow" bad rubber valve?

 

I vil ltry the car like this now ...... ??

[Torbo]

Before  I do anything... Can someone tell me the sequence to the fan when it goes  i idle - 900 o/min and how often?

On my engine the fan came go in then second an go off in 40 second and so on.. 

I have not experienced that the fan has a yard for short periods of time? 

Maybe I have to change the temperature sensor /switch in the radiator?

 

Edited 7 August, 2017 by Torbo

[Torbo]

To day I switched the thermo switch! Successful....! Now the fan goes   40 seconds on and 55 seconds off and so again and again pon idling. 

It seems more natural and common.

According to Hynes, the 1.4 liter OHC engine has 102 degree thermostat and!, 4 DHOC have 98 degrees ....

Have a little pressure on the pressure as they vary between 3 and 7 psi.

It's okay, I think.

But if i miss coolant Im worry again?

Also see that I could have cleaned the system better, as there are some mayonnaise spots in the "fishing bowl" ..

[Torbo]

Soon I will change cylinders. There is a crack in one of the old. 

Got four used for 40 pound. 

[Torbo]

I will change the piston ring and hone. And the copper-rings (sealers) under the cylinders. There is tree size, and i bought all to get there right hight on top.

Measuring first measuring the shim old shim, and then 0,05 extra . I think that will be ok? 

The cylinders shall be about 0,1 mm over the engine block? 

I most look in the spesifications...

New liners shall bee good!

 

(but first off all I must have some service on my body and head)

Edited 10 September, 2017 by Torbo

[TMB]

0.07...0.12 mm

 

 

Edited 10 September, 2017 by TMB

[sepulchrave]

I think an engineers square and some feeler gauges  will work just fine and 0.1mm sounds about perfect.

[Torbo]

19 hours ago, TMB said:

0.07...0.12 mm

 

 

Thanks! Just like my Renault Dauphine, that get new cylinders and pistons ..: 

 

 

Edited 11 September, 2017 by Torbo

[TMB]

I like your Dauphine . Always liked underdog cars.

[Torbo]

On 11. september 2017 at 20:14, TMB said:

I like your Dauphine . Always liked underdog cars.

Red one also? (mine)

[rum4mo]

I have a friend that has one of these red cars that is behind your one, its cylinder heads are away getting cleaned up and waiting for a new push rod and head gasket set for when he returns from holiday in St Malo - there was a Sonnett on the ferry he was going on across the channel. Some Ford 105Es there too I see - I had a van based on them once!

[Torbo]

The Anglia is also a nice car.

Her is my cylinder head (Gordini) fresched up and 1 mm cutting off, for more compression.

 

 

[rum4mo]

I just hope that my friend will not end up paying the price of buying a cheap gasket set after getting the heads cleaned up and reworked for use with unleaded petrol.  I think that his SAAB 96 Ford V4 only bent a push rod due to it not having been run for about 2 years - and so the "gum" on the valve stems could have dried out and seized/"stiffened" one exhaust valve. I had hoped that he could have waited until I had time to visit him with my valve (spring) compressing tool and get all the valves out to try to make sure that we knew what had caused that push rod to get bent - but things did not work out that way.  It will be very disappointing if he rebuilds this engine and it bends that new push rod!

[Torbo]

We can hope the best!  ?? 

[TMB]

10 hours ago, Torbo said:

Red one also? (mine)

 

Very nice!

[Torbo]

Thank you! The problem now is the brakes. After few hours I get air in the hydraulic system. ! ? Can not find any obvious mistake! ??

My be the pressure regulator for the rear brakes? 

the only thing I haven't checked?

My be i mot take all the braking parts off and lock trough thick glasses? Has newer  experienced something like this. 

Changed the normal parts and main cylinder. Mew in front back? Not sure...?

Suggestions? 

 

 

[sepulchrave]

Maybe there is an air pocket somewhere and after a few hours the tiny bubbles rise through the system to make themselves known, I guess the wheel cylinders but it could the compensator valve, if you connect a pressure bleeder and then leave the car overnight you will see fluid somewhere if there is a very small leak.

[KenONeill]

9 hours ago, Torbo said:

Thank you! The problem now is the brakes. After few hours I get air in the hydraulic system. ! ? Can not find any obvious mistake! ??

My be the pressure regulator for the rear brakes? 

the only thing I haven't checked?

My be i mot take all the braking parts off and lock trough thick glasses? Has newer  experienced something like this. 

Changed the normal parts and main cylinder. Mew in front back? Not sure...?

Suggestions? 

 

 

I presume this is the Fabia? If so and if you pressure bleed brakes then you might have got air into the ABS valve block. If that's the case, you need VCDS (or a dealership computer) to perform an ABS bleed to get it back out.

[Torbo]

Thanks for tips! But I'm sorry this is my Renault! A mistake from me. I will have in mind the air in the ABS-block! I have problems like this in a Fiat and i had to start the engine to get the air you. May be ignition on is enough? I don't do this often, but one time it was enough with ignition on, and I hear the ABS was working.?