Fabia vrs pulling to side on acceleration

[Jayramm]

Hi guys i know im in the wrong section but cant see where to ask this question? Also all the answers ive seen is everybody recommending console bushes. Let me give you a bit of back story. The car pulls to the left only on acceleration regardless of road condition straights or bends, when off the throttle its 100% straight. Within last 6 months i have changed, new wishbones with ball joints, new polly front and rear bushes, replaced subframe and anti roll bar (with standard bushes) 2nd hand(obv bushes are new) , new polly dog bone bush, new droplinks, new coilys all round, steering rack checked and straight, calipers not sticking, ive had 4 wheel alignment done, all tyres are matching and same pressure. Any help please?? Only thing i havent changed is driveshafts and hubs

[sparky2]

Try the Fabia mk1 forum ! Have you tried changing the tyres round or it could be the diff. This strand covers electronic diagnostics and VCDS. Cheers Stuart

Edited 19 August, 2017 by sparky2

[Jayramm]

On 19/08/2017 at 12:58, sparky2 said:

Try the Fabia mk1 forum ! Have you tried changing the tyres round or it could be the diff. This strand covers electronic diagnostics and VCDS. Cheers Stuart

How do i do that and remove this

[DGW]

The Mods have moved your thread to the correct forum.

[VWD]

TYRE PRESSURES ?

[KenONeill]

@Jayramm - Are both front tyres the same size? I've seen that be got wrong before.

[Jayramm]

7 hours ago, VWD said:

TYRE PRESSURES ?

Thanks for the input. All 4 tyres hold the same pressure and checked weekly. 

 

6 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@Jayramm - Are both front tyres the same size? I've seen that be got wrong before.

Thanks for the input. All tyres exactly the same size 195-45-16 stretched on 8j wheels. Had this problem with standard wheels on aswell as my current bbs reps 

[Ootohere]

^^^ So car faulty and a bit unsafe before on the BBS and might well be of interest to any Loss Adjuster or Vehicle examiner if it ever came to that running on 195/45 R 16's on 8J rims.

Basically a badly aligned & set up car running questionable tyres / wheels.

 

?

What is the pressures that all 4 tyres are running, 

and have you tried not having them all the same and maybe the front a little lower than the rear?

[Breezy_Pete]

Need the printout before/after from the 4-wheel alignment.

[Jayramm]

2 hours ago, Awayoffski said:

^^^ So car faulty and a bit unsafe before on the BBS and might well be of interest to any Loss Adjuster or Vehicle examiner if it ever came to that running on 195/45 R 16's on 8J rims.

Basically a badly aligned & set up car running questionable tyres / wheels.

 

?

What is the pressures that all 4 tyres are running, 

and have you tried not having them all the same and maybe the front a little lower than the rear?

All four tyres running at 37psi which was recommended by a tyre fitter from bmtr as they are stretched. Good idea i might just take it to a bodyshop to check chassis and body out. Thanks for the help

 

2 hours ago, Wino said:

Need the printout before/after from the 4-wheel alignment.

I never got a print out, it was done on laser machines bit they never gave printout. Will go back to them and ask tho as it was very recent.

 

Thanks 

[Ootohere]

The tyre pressure is about as silly as the stretched tyres IMO,  but since they are why not just go drop them front and rear to 32 PSI and see if there is any difference in the pulling to the side under acceleration.

'What the worst that can happen'?

 

?

What short of formal qualifications in mechanical engineering and tyre technologies does the tyre fitter at bmtr have that you are going to trust you and others lives to ?, 

maybe the same as i have or more or less you never know unless you ask, maybe he or she has zero, nowt, nothing, just past experiences....

[VWD]

I always start with the obvious. Hence tyre pressures. Like others ,i wouldn't trust a tyre fitter to know the correct tyre pressure off the top of his head. I've taken too many vans into one large tyre place to be replaced ,and had adhesion problems after . Tyre pressure was at least 10-15 psi on high side.

Wrong sized tyres usually shows up on ABS failure.

[Jayramm]

6 hours ago, Awayoffski said:

The tyre pressure is about as silly as the stretched tyres IMO,  but since they are why not just go drop them front and rear to 32 PSI and see if there is any difference in the pulling to the side under acceleration.

'What the worst that can happen'?

 

?

What short of formal qualifications in mechanical engineering and tyre technologies does the tyre fitter at bmtr have that you are going to trust you and others lives to ?, 

maybe the same as i have or more or less you never know unless you ask, maybe he or she has zero, nowt, nothing, just past experiences....

Awayoffski your missing the point buddy, had same problem with the original wheels with all same tyres and pressure of 32psi. I think my best option is take it to a bodyshop to check chassis/body. Thanks

[Ootohere]

It is easy to miss the point when someone posts and does not give all the details,

 

So what are these tyres, brand / type and the age of them and that helps other get a picture of the issue since it was there before they were put onto wider rims, 

did they come fitted to the car so you have no idea how it behaved before they were fitted?

 

Before doing more mechanical fixes maybe borrow a set of wheels / tyres or even a pair and fit them to the front and see how the car behaves.

Edited 25 August, 2017 by Awayoffski

[2ndskoda]

First question must be exact brand and name of the tyres.

Second question - are the tyres directional - have they been swapped around or misfitted?

3rd question, have you measured the side wheel centre to wheel centre (F to R) on both sides with the steering set to straight ahead.

Lastly has the car been placed on a ramp and secured. Then with brake on a driver to gently pull away whilst looking for mechanical movement in the drive train.

Even a broken engine mount can (in some cases) allow the geometry of the steering to go wrong by unarrested movement.

 

We need much more detail from you.

Finally, have to agree with  Awayoffski - non standard wheel sizes with standard size tyres is a big no-no. In the event of any problem/accident, any insurance assessor worth his salary would immediately negate any claim. You are taking a big risk in doing this

[Jayramm]

5 hours ago, Awayoffski said:

It is easy to miss the point when someone posts and does not give all the details,

 

So what are these tyres, brand / type and the age of them and that helps other get a picture of the issue since it was there before they were put onto wider rims, 

did they come fitted to the car so you have no idea how it behaved before they were fitted?

 

Before doing more mechanical fixes maybe borrow a set of wheels / tyres or even a pair and fit them to the front and see how the car behaves.

The brand is toyo proxes 195-45-16 on 8j wheels, all have 6mm tread and worn evenly, so trackings ok. No the car did not come with these on. Before this set i had the original fabia vrs 16 inch alloys which had all michelin pilots running 32psi. Even back then i had this problem hence why so many parts have been changed. Oh btw the original alloys are all good and straight as my mates been driving with them for nearly 6 months now. 

 

3 hours ago, 2ndskoda said:

First question must be exact brand and name of the tyres.

Second question - are the tyres directional - have they been swapped around or misfitted?

3rd question, have you measured the side wheel centre to wheel centre (F to R) on both sides with the steering set to straight ahead.

Lastly has the car been placed on a ramp and secured. Then with brake on a driver to gently pull away whilst looking for mechanical movement in the drive train.

Even a broken engine mount can (in some cases) allow the geometry of the steering to go wrong by unarrested movement.

 

We need much more detail from you.

Finally, have to agree with  Awayoffski - non standard wheel sizes with standard size tyres is a big no-no. In the event of any problem/accident, any insurance assessor worth his salary would immediately negate any claim. You are taking a big risk in doing this

Toyo proxes 195-45-16 they are directional and are all fitted to the right directions. Sorry dont really understand your 3rd question. Ahh good thinking.... Not had the car on a ramp yet but will do soon as possible and get someone to pull of in it. It does make a metallic click noise when pulling away or turning the wheel when stationery. I will check engine and gearbox mounts tomorrow. Dogbone has been pollybushed so thats fine. 

 

Thanks for the help guys

[2ndskoda]

It is important that everyone realises that when a car pulls away, the front of the car lifts. Therefore the steering geometry alters - albeit slightly.

 

In consequence, it is ESSENTIAL  that this change is shared equally between the turning ability of both sides.

 

I have had many cases where the stiffness in the steering of one strut is such that it does not freely move, and in consequence the other (looser) side alters beyond what should be its share of response. Lift the car - let go both ball joints, and compare turning 'stiffness',

 

Some cars in the past have been so bad (even a brand new Marina that we sold) that braking has caused veering off from a centre line - all because of a very stiff bottom trunnion).

In addition, looking through this thread - I agree with Awayoffski and share his doubt of the laser check that you had done. As always the check is only as good as the operator.

[Jayramm]

14 minutes ago, 2ndskoda said:

It is important that everyone realises that when a car pulls away, the front of the car lifts. Therefore the steering geometry alters - albeit slightly.

 

In consequence, it is ESSENTIAL  that this change is shared equally between the turning ability of both sides.

 

I have had many cases where the stiffness in the steering of one strut is such that it does not freely move, and in consequence the other (looser) side alters beyond what should be its share of response. Lift the car - let go both ball joints, and compare turning 'stiffness',

 

Some cars in the past have been so bad (even a brand new Marina that we sold) that braking has caused veering off from a centre line - all because of a very stiff bottom trunnion).

In addition, looking through this thread - I agree with Awayoffski and share his doubt of the laser check that you had done. As always the check is only as good as the operator.

Ok right that will be my next job then. Thanks 

[Jayramm]

5 hours ago, 2ndskoda said:

It is important that everyone realises that when a car pulls away, the front of the car lifts. Therefore the steering geometry alters - albeit slightly.

 

In consequence, it is ESSENTIAL  that this change is shared equally between the turning ability of both sides.

 

I have had many cases where the stiffness in the steering of one strut is such that it does not freely move, and in consequence the other (looser) side alters beyond what should be its share of response. Lift the car - let go both ball joints, and compare turning 'stiffness',

 

Some cars in the past have been so bad (even a brand new Marina that we sold) that braking has caused veering off from a centre line - all because of a very stiff bottom trunnion).

In addition, looking through this thread - I agree with Awayoffski and share his doubt of the laser check that you had done. As always the check is only as good as the operator.

Checked movement with both ball joints disconnected and both hubs move freely and i guess equally too. 

[Peterj222]

Did you get this sorted Jayramm? I now have exactly the same problem, but only AFTER fitting cupra console bushes and new arms and ball joints!! Was fine before execpt for clunking and noticable movement from the console bushes but now everything is nice and tight and new it pulls left when you put your foot down and you can noticably feel it go back to the right when you lift your foot off????

[Breezy_Pete]

Did you get the tracking checked after fitting the Cupra bushes?

[Peterj222]

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

Did you get the tracking checked after fitting the Cupra bushes?

I haven't done yet Wino... as far as I can see the only thing adjustable is the toe in/out on the track rod ends....and I havent touched these. The three bolts that secure the ball joints to the arms are just round holes so little / no adjustment to be had there??

[Breezy_Pete]

The holes that the wishbone hex bits go into in the cupra bushes are central, I think; where the holes in the originals are a few mm inboard (or outboard, I forget which) of the centre of the bush casing.

You might argue that any change will be symmetrical as you've done both sides of the car, but any significant amount of toe in or toe out will amplify any other slight caster/camber type issues by making the steering 'twitchier', I think.

[Peterj222]

8 minutes ago, Wino said:

The holes that the wishbone hex bits go into in the cupra bushes are central, I think; where the holes in the originals are a few mm inboard (or outboard, I forget which) of the centre of the bush casing.

You might argue that any change will be symmetrical as you've done both sides of the car, but any significant amount of toe in or toe out will amplify any other slight caster/camber type issues by making the steering 'twitchier', I think.

I think that getting it checked is going to have to be my next step as I cant leave it as it is. Just wondered if the OP had worked out why his was doing it as he said that getting it 4 wheel aligned had not fixed it?

There is a place not far from me that are supposed to be really good.....but they do charge for the privilige!!

[HWolfy]

Is it not just simply a case of torque steer? The driveshafts are of different lengths so that's the obvious thing to me. Nothing you can do about torque steer