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Reverse Lights Not Working


Aleskoda

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Morning Guys, 

 

Just been told my reverse lights are not working by a passer by. I have subsequently checked the fuse, lamps and connectors and they are fine, my suspicion is that it could be the switch on the gear box ?

 

Any previous experiences or any ideas let me know, as for now  I will just avoid reversing.

 

Cheers ! 

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Yes will be the switch on the box. Quite straightforward to replace just need the car up in the air and the undertray removed. Then its a large spanner to undo it. If you keep the front end jacked high enough no oil will spill out

You can test it by doing a continuity test between the two terminals on the switch when reverse is engaged and if there is nothing or a high resistance you know its the switch. It is a fiddly test to do however so you might aswell just buy the switch and replace it.

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11 hours ago, Aleskoda said:

2002 1.9 sdi Estate not sure on gearbox code 

 

Gearbox code is on a sticker inside the front of the service book and also on a sticker under the boot carpet.

 

445566.jpg

 

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13 minutes ago, Aleskoda said:

Cheers, I’ll look into it I’m assuming the code relates to the part requirement? 

 

Yeah I could find the part number for you if I had the gearbox code.

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I would say the part number is going to be 02T945415P

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-REVERSE-LIGHT-SWITCH-02T945415P/381516773694?epid=1834258241&hash=item58d42bf93e:g:dcIAAOSw7GRZHw7d

 

 

Beware of buying a non-genuine one. I bought one that was the 'Topran' brand and it only worked when it felt like it. Threw it away and fitted a genuine one and it's been fine ever since.

Edited by TMB
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Can also be the wiring to the switch; eyeball it before spending on a new switch if possible (front of gearbox, lowish).

Also be careful with the connector and nearby wiring when unplugging it if you do replace the switch. I had to replace my Polo's switch (lights stuck on) and then had to revisit a couple of weeks later to repair the wiring near the loom connector. It must have either already been damaged, or was damaged by me when replacing the switch.

Usual trick with these connectors, push the mating parts firmly together before releasing the latch. Only when you hear the latch click open should you try to pull connectors apart. Makes everything work much better.

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  • 2 weeks later...
18 minutes ago, Aleskoda said:

Alright yea, suppose it’s only a couple of quid difference you had much experience with main dealers, would they sell them at much different prices

 

Main dealer parts can be expensive. However, the ebay link I gave you is a main dealer selling on ebay - Rainworth Skoda.

 

Believe it or not, my genuine reversing light switch cost £50!! Yours is obviously a lot cheaper.

 

This was mine minus the delivery charge...

 

67788999.png

 

Edited by TMB
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WHERE IS the "headbanger" smilie ? Regularly I see posts on here looking for guidance on faulting electrics.

Forget the understanding. An electrical circuit is similar to a water pipe with taps every so often. No water at the end and it's then walking down the pipe to see where there's no water. My training was to go halfway down and work in the direction of no flow.  Halfback at a time, and in no more than 8 steps you've solved the problem( UNLESS you're looking for a break in a Transatlantic cable, where you need a cable ship).

 

First RULE- NEVER ASSUME.

Start at one end and work halfway back at a time.

In the case of no reverse lights- either forwards or backwards. In the case of no reverse lights- the simplest place back lights. Either us a meter or a lamp tester and prove "volts/no volts".

On a water pipe,  I'd assume that tester would go halfway down and open a tap. Water- he'd go halfway on and open another tap. 

No water- it's backtrack, till he finds the points between water and none. Similar to volts-  none- go back. Else- press on to next test point.

As Fergie says -it's SIMPLES.

Edited by VWD
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