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Glow plug light flashing


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Hey padredante

the part you want only cost around £140 for a genuine part, I don’t think they are difficult to change but it might require some setting which may require VCDS or similar. My son had a wastegate fault appear after he had left it for a few days ( different engine) he cleared the fault and it seems ok now. I am sure someone will have the answer

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  • 1 month later...

I've had a flashing glowworm fault light intermittently for last number of weeks on a 2010 CR170 engine. 

 

The issue kicked off maybe 3months ago when I noted limp mode, dropped it into local garage, where they diagnosed a faulty solenoid valve which was replaced. The glow work intermittent flashing light has followed since, I've dropped car back, they believe there is nothing wrong with the valve that was replaced, they suspect that it is the turbo itself that is failing (125k miles on odometer). No further info provided. They said that DPF regen will not happen with glow worm flashing, however once it is not on for every jouney (currently it is on every other journey in frequency), so that regen is happening frequently, no need to worry too much about it unless fault light stays on continuously.

 

Anyone any advice on what next step should be, whether I should push to get this fixed sooner rather than later?

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, poolfan said:

Anyone any advice on what next step should be, whether I should push to get this fixed sooner rather than later?

 

Get the car scanned with VCDS for fault codes before throwing any more money at the car.

 

There is a list of VCDS owners in my signature

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I had pretty strange moment today. Was on my way home, when felt, that DPF regen started. Switched on VAG DPF - correct. So, decided to do a bigger circle to get filter clean before arriving. At 39% suddenly regen was stopped and glow plug light came on. Didn`t went to full limp mode though, turbo stayed active. After some moments at home took off, glow olug light stayed off, regen finished it`s job and everything was ok then. 

Still wondering why the regen was interrupted Wasn`t that cold, about -10 C.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A friend had an ELM 327 WiFi adpater, so I scanned the car for fault codes. The fault code associated with the flashing glow worm seems to be P2563. From Ross Tech website, this states the following. 

 

Anyone know what my net step should be - for example, go back to garage and ask them - presumably thi is the same fault code they would have seen during their  troubleshooting orginally and when I returned?

 

8995/P2563/009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit: Implausible Signal

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) ON
  • Power Loss

Possible Causes

  • Wiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) faulty
  • Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty
    • Binding Issues due to Adjustment/Turbocharger
    • Excessive Carbon build-up
  • Vacuum Leak from/to Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator and Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)

Possible Solutions

  • Check/Replace Fuses
  • Check Wiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581)
  • Check Vane Position Sensor (G581)
    • Perform Ohm Test
  • Check Mechanical Turbocharger Operation
    • Rule out binging and excessive Carbon build-up
  • Check Vacuum Supply from/to Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) and Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

After over 2 years it’s came back to haunt me, over last couple of weeks the glow plug light has flashed on a few times then clears, got car scanned and came up with fault as per pic,  got reset and ran ok for days on end ( lad very surprised who scanned it) that it never came back on sooner.

Last night on way to work it came on again but this time the EML came on also, that was still on today but then cleared this afternoon when I moved the car.

got it scanned again tonight and same fault egr valve.

what am finding strange is the intermittent times it does it and he finds it strange also.

does anyone know what the N18 is ? 

Think am gonna have to put my hand in my pocket though and bite the bullet, can do it myself but it does look a pig of a job.

could it be something else that’s causing it ?

cheers 

Also the car hasn’t had the emissions fix and unsure if I want to go down that route either 

E34C3CD9-5ECD-4AEB-9A37-654F8980AC2B.png

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On 29/12/2017 at 12:15, chimaera said:

The other common failure associated with the EGR is failure of the N18 solenoid valve which controls the opening of the EGR valve itself. You will need the diagnostic report to determine if this is the case.

So could it be the N18 solenoid ? With it having (N18) on the report in pic I posted ? Or how do you find out ?

sorry about this but we’ll and truly out of date with these modern cars and Packed in being an  Hgv fitter 20 years ago

cheers

Edited by Snapper1725
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It certainly looks like the N18 is gone based on that scan. Unfortunately I think it's integral to the EGR assembly but I'm not 100 % sure.

 

If you can get it into a dealer with the code cleared, you can get the emissions update done and then claim a new EGR under the terms of the Trust Building Measure when it craps out.

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Thank you for quick reply 

Had a look yesterday, a vacuum pipe comes off the inlet side of turbo which goes to a solenoid on the bulkhead, one pipe off it goes to the turbo but the other pipe goes in to a solenoid above the oil filter ( think that’s the N18 from google search but not 100%)  the one coming out goes down back off engine, which I think is to the valve on the egr valve but haven’t had chance to get underneath or down back for a better look.

Thing about my local dealer is one it’s 35 mile away and two had a right go at them last time they Serviced my car, tried to get £300 out of my for rear discs and pads when nothing wrong with the discs, but I found the rear pads seized solid in the carriers, car had full dealer service history. Told them I’ve been paying a fortune for services and you do health checks but pads seized in so looks like the fluids have just been getting done. 

The service manager didn’t know what to say, 

If it been a normal person with no knowledge of cars I said you would have had the extra money but tried it with the wrong person.

So not keen on going back

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  • 2 weeks later...

On my 2014 model there is an electronic hall switch mounted at the bottom of the brake master cylinder.

 

Without access to a wiring diagram, I would assume this is the brake light switch.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

Hi guys any advice on this. I read the posts on this thread and am having exact same problem with my skoda superb 2011 2.0 170. Glowplug light and light mode. Mechanic thought was sensors and that didn't work. He was baffled and everything was pointing him to the actuator and that didn't work. I was able to reset faults and drive for couple of days but light would cone back on. Now it comes on straight away when I hit reset code but I hear like and clicking noise in engine and glowplug light come on straight away.

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2 hours ago, Snapper1725 said:


maybe worth watching if clicking sound 

Hi appreciate the feed back. Sorry I meant when I reset the fault it makes i click like somebody flicking a switch then glowplug light comes back on then limp mode. Had at 2 different mechanics. Nightmare

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1 hour ago, Stingray30 said:

Hi appreciate the feed back. Sorry I meant when I reset the fault it makes i click like somebody flicking a switch then glowplug light comes back on then limp mode. Had at 2 different mechanics. Nightmare

Not sure, mine was just putting the light on and going in to limp mode.

I watched this to get an idea of what was involved, he’s is making a noise and it’s the gearing inside.

mine was doing nothing and looked nowhere near as bad when I took it apart out of curiosity but it fixed it 🤔

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There are 2 sources for the clicking noise of stripped plastic gears.

 

One is the EGR at the back of the engine, the other is the throttle valve on the inlet pipe just behind the radiator.

 

Check which is making the clicking noise before you go further.

 

Either will result in reduced engine power.

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On 27/05/2022 at 14:42, PipH said:

There are 2 sources for the clicking noise of stripped plastic gears.

 

One is the EGR at the back of the engine, the other is the throttle valve on the inlet pipe just behind the radiator.

 

Check which is making the clicking noise before you go further.

 

Either will result in reduced engine power.

Hi. Sounds like it just below window

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13 hours ago, Stingray30 said:

Hi. Sounds like it just below window

Sounds like it's coming from the EGR then.

 

You can fit one of these :-  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183869556154?hash=item2acf7ac5ba:g:OaAAAOSw-DRdHK14

as long as you are ok with the extra NOX emissions.

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