On 21/09/2023 at 14:24, cri1410sti said:

 

The kangaroo is known and it is 99% -the wrong injection map.

 

As you probably know, on wltp, the measurements are made straight when you start the engine.

 

VW needs to keep wltp co2 at the same levels like they homologated the engine/car.

 

When the engine is cold there are 2-5 injections (at ~160bar) so that the gas particles should not reach the cylinder wall and condensate there.

 

Also that why the 1.5tsi engines are not reaching at normal temperatures in short time, because is used too less gas.

 

You can find the injection info in the ssp-555, the engine is forced to work in the stratified mode too early (and not homogenous mode) in order to have a low consumption, and from there is resulting the low torque/kangaroo.

 

hi again,

 

to check if new firmware is available for your ecu you can connect to vag.flashinfo.de and search your ecu part number (example: 05e906018ck).

there you can see latest version and you can compare with your actual one.

i have the latest: 1910, updated 6 months ago.

(the factory default was 0863)

now kangaroo is 90% fixed.

On 26/03/2024 at 13:50, cri1410sti said:

 

hi again,

 

to check if new firmware is available for your ecu you can connect to vag.flashinfo.de and search your ecu part number (example: 05e906018ck).

there you can see latest version and you can compare with your actual one.

i have the latest: 1910, updated 6 months ago.

(the factory default was 0863)

now kangaroo is 90% fixed.

 

Hi,

 

here is the cause:

 

lean warm-up and extreme retard spark.

 

If VW will fix this then the engine and the catalyst will warm-up slower but the engine will work as it should. (no more kangaroo)

They will not fix this because it will result slight bigger CO2 emissions  

 

On 26/03/2024 at 12:50, cri1410sti said:

 

hi again,

 

to check if new firmware is available for your ecu you can connect to vag.flashinfo.de and search your ecu part number (example: 05e906018ck).

there you can see latest version and you can compare with your actual one.

i have the latest: 1910, updated 6 months ago.

(the factory default was 0863)

now kangaroo is 90% fixed.

Hi, please tell me, you were update to 1910 version by your dealer ? I think I have the same problem o my scala 2021, obd11 show that I have 0807 version. There is no way to update it by myself perhaps?

My symptoms are simmiliar to all described here in topic. When I'm trying to run, moving the clutch without acceleration pedal, and when clutch is almost off, there is a moment when I instantly put acceleration pedal in even no secound there is like lag, and jerky acceleration of car. Maybe updating fw engine will help me too. 

On 26/03/2024 at 11:50, cri1410sti said:

 

hi again,

 

to check if new firmware is available for your ecu you can connect to vag.flashinfo.de and search your ecu part number (example: 05e906018ck).

there you can see latest version and you can compare with your actual one.

i have the latest: 1910, updated 6 months ago.

(the factory default was 0863)

now kangaroo is 90% fixed.

Thanks I'll check that out, not sure if mine has ever been to a dealer so probably not a single update with anything 

Mine even does it in 2nd

1 hour ago, Blue8793841 said:

Thanks I'll check that out, not sure if mine has ever been to a dealer so probably not a single update with anything 

Mine even does it in 2nd

I have found that newer version of fw for my ECU is available but I have no idea how to download it from quoted site and how to update it in car. Is it simmilar to update infotainment system?

Just now, radoszczak said:

I have found that newer version of fw for my ECU is available but I have no idea how to download it from quoted site and how to update it in car. Is it simmilar to update infotainment system?

No, you won't be able to update it without suitable equipment 

5 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

No, you won't be able to update it without suitable equipment 

I see. So only in dealer service workshop it can be done?

1 minute ago, radoszczak said:

I see. So only in dealer service workshop it can be done?

No, any capable person can do it with the right equipment.

Edited 2 August, 20241 yr by Blue8793841

On 02/08/2024 at 22:56, Blue8793841 said:

No, any capable person can do it with the right equipment.

Would you tell what to do mean by right equipment ? Special diagnostic tool ? Computer with right software ? Maybe it will be possible to update it in car workshop near by. Unfortunatly manufacter service won't answer about update, so I need to find a car repair shop, or leave it and drive with this unconvinient sympthome. Anyone can tell does this kangooru could harm any mechanical devices in car, like clutch or two-mass wheel ?

Edited 5 August, 20241 yr by radoszczak

Is the car not still under warranty? You need to have computer to update software and obviously the file you want to put on ECU.

12 hours ago, Blue8793841 said:

Is the car not still under warranty? You need to have computer to update software and obviously the file you want to put on ECU.

No warranty. Car was bought after 3y warranty without expand. 

On 02/08/2024 at 22:32, Blue8793841 said:

Thanks I'll check that out, not sure if mine has ever been to a dealer so probably not a single update with anything 

Mine even does it in 2nd

-here you can see what is the latest version (based on your ECU part number)

-from here you can download the ECU firmware update(you can search by ECU part number or sw version)

-i have found these sites later, my update was done by the dealer, official.

Above are just examples, you can search for yourself, it is your full responsibility!

Anyone know that this kangaroo thing whlie starting could do any harm to car's drives system like engine, clutch etc ? 

I just recently purchased a used late 2019 1.5TSI Manual and I am experiencing severe hesitation in 1st and 2nd gear.

Its so bad that I actually went to a different dealership and test drove another 1.5TSI and it felt completely different.

When trying to pull away its almost like there is no turbo up until around 3k RPM. As explained by other users 1st and 2nd gear seems to have no power at all until around 3k rpm.

I spoke to the supplying dealer who knew nothing about the issues mentioned here, also SUK were quite useless (I spoke to around 4 different people who denied knowledge of these issues)

The dealer is taking the vehcile back next week to check for updates, but im worried if the fixes were offical updates or were only made available to those who reported issues if that makes sense.

Here is my ECU info if anyone could possibly tell me if there are any updates please:

   Part No SW: 05E 906 018 AT    HW: 05E 907 309 H
   Component: R4 1.5l TFS   H20 9640  

Edited 30 May, 20251 yr by s88urd

I have gradually worked my way through most of this very long (!) thread and have found some useful information which I summarise below together with some comments on my experience for what its worth... It may save someone having to trawl through the last 117 pages!

Firstly, I think that perhaps some posters expect a little too much perfect running with a cold engine and are therefore disappointed. (I know some said they had problems warm as well). In 'the old days' you really did not expect any engine to run perfectly smoothly before it had warmed up fully. You pulled out the choke (or it had an automatic choke) and it stuttered along for the first five minutes or couple of miles until it settled into its operating temperature and designed performance parameters. I still wait a couple of minutes before driving off and this also has the essential advantage of getting oil circulation up to full pressure before stressing the engine. This has served me well as I have run several car engines to 180-200,000 miles without major problems. I can never understand those who start their car and then drive off within literally a second or two.

My recently acquired 2nd hand Karoq [1.5 tsi manual, DADA code, manufactured Mlada Boleslav circa ?end2017-early2018] when it is started, first idles at 1250rpm, drops to 1000 after 15sec then to 750 after about another 30 sec. I never drive off before then. Switching on the aircon makes the idle rise to 900rpm as the ECU automatically compensates for the increased power demand.

I have not experienced any marked 'kangaroo-ing', ...not any more than a slight hesitancy between 0-10mph before the engine fully warms up and therefore not far off what I might expect from a 'coldish' engine. Albeit measured in the current warm summer weather. It did seem however to lack progressive power delivery between 1000 to 2250rpm and I had to slightly over-rev to achieve smooth upward gear changes. Again some might say this is what you expect with a turbocharger that only kicks in from about 1500rpm upwards. (I do not seem to have the Variable Turbo Geometry in my DADA engine as others have.)

Nevertheless, after an ECU software update at my local dealership, the car has improved quite markedly. The drive feels much smoother and specifically: (a) the power delivery between 1000-2250 is more progressive and consistent; (b) there is no jerkiness in 2nd gear even at low rpm such as 1000-1250 and I can accelerate smoothly from there; (c) I can actually trickle along in 3rd on level roads at 1000rpm without problem; (d) some damping action has been applied in the software to stop accidental over-revving on gear changes -- whereas previously when accelerating hard I had to be very careful in synchronising clutch depression and easing off the accelerator, but now, even when deliberately pressing the clutch 1/2 sec before easing the accelerator, the revs are held at the last peak value before dropping as you ease off. One or two minor bugs in the software also seem to have been ironed out. For example, long pressing the 00-Set button on the dash should bring up the Service Interval info but it never did. It now behaves as specified in the Handbook.

The most useful tables I have found in this thread (from other posters) are below:

Dealers do tend to deny the existence of ECU updates but armed with the software version table I managed to persuade my Skoda dealer to at least check which version I had. I was fortunate enough to talk to the technician while he was doing the update and I had my original yr2018 05E906018P ver5472 updated to 9752. They download it from the Skoda servers on demand and it is probably best to bring both your keys along when you do an update as I believe it may require your keys recoded if it affects the immobiliser module.

Good luck if you decide to pursue this update path but I certainly found an improvement.

Edited 3 August, 20253 Aug by warmrain
Number typo.