Are there anything we can do that can improve noise insulation in the superb? 

(upgrade glass / window / door / floor insulation)

It is a great car, but can be improved upon if we can get the cabin to have a bit less noise.

(I think most are road noise due to crappy Australian roads).

that sound deadening has been add, but by result i satisfied just partly

https://www.drive2.com/l/474154769825398961/
https://www.drive2.com/l/471766905447777004/

 

i'm not brave enough to implement these, that kind of changes make car illegal on EU roads

https://www.drive2.com/l/7023860/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7147142/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7433929/

 

3 hours ago, MartiniB said:

that sound deadening has been add, but by result i satisfied just partly

https://www.drive2.com/l/474154769825398961/
https://www.drive2.com/l/471766905447777004/

 

i'm not brave enough to implement these, that kind of changes make car illegal on EU roads

https://www.drive2.com/l/7023860/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7147142/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7433929/

 

I wonder how big difference is it?
I would like to get rid of some road noise too, but problem is that in Slovenia I haven't found any person/company that would do additional noise insulation =/.

On 5/1/2018 at 13:45, JackySi said:

I wonder how big difference is it?
I would like to get rid of some road noise too, but problem is that in Slovenia I haven't found any person/company that would do additional noise insulation =/.

JackySi, the difference is huge!

I'm myselt in the middle of sound deadening my MK3 Superb and I already see (read hear) big difference. It's not a crazy hard thing to do yourself (if you dont find any workshops specialized for it) but I would recomend to ask from companies that do car audio installation in Slovenia. It is a thumb rule that if you upgrade your car speakers, then you must first do sound deadening for the doors. If you dont do it, then you loose alot in sound quality.

It also means that sound deadening will improve your Superb original sound

 

And you dont have to do the deadening so completely as you see on those links. I would say that doors, fenders and trunk will give you 80% of the effect. I also noticed that pilar between doors needs some attention. It was not so critican on my MK2 Superb but with MK3 it is. And if you can do the front side floors, then it also helps a lot (otherwise you can do fenders from the outside). Well, I'm doing both - fenders from the outside (two layers) and from the inside (two layers). 

 

I'm gona tell a story now. 

When I had my MK2 Superb I did a partial sound deadening for it. Well, the most basic stuff like doors, front floor, boot, hood. Didnt do roof nor rear floor. I was pretty happy with it but when its your own car, then you hear every single bit of sound that other people dont. So I was sure that my Superb was an average when it comes to road noise. And I also have to mention that although I bought this car brand new, it was about 4 years old by the time so did not have the new car quietness anymore. I once had a chance to test a brand new 500 series BMW. I was thrilled that I could finally hear how silence in the car should sound like (read not sound). But I was shocked how loud that BWM really was compared to my old Superb. There was even no comparison. Yes, 500 series is no flagship but from that day on, I looked at my old Superb much differently. 

 

End of story, you can wake up now.

On 01/05/2018 at 02:31, cyberkank said:

Are there anything we can do that can improve noise insulation in the superb? 

 

 

Possibly change the wheel size. Mine is just a facelift Superb II "S" tsi model with tall profile tyres (205/55 r 16) which I've found quiet all round especially fitted with Crossclimates - Must admit I was surprised at the high levels of road noise when I was driven in another Superb II taxi (pre facelift) - I think it was an Elegance model.

 

However,  back in the days when I restored cars and built a kit car -  I used  bitumen pads to great effect to drastically reduce noise (especially drumming), and as they were quite thin and didn't mis-shape carpet sets or interfere with trim and were easy to cut/shape. They also didn't absorb water!!!

Edited 12 May, 20188 yr by bigjohn

11 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

Possibly change the wheel size. Mine is just a facelift Superb II "S" tsi model with tall profile tyres (205/55 r 16) which I've found quiet all round especially fitted with Crossclimates - Must admit I was surprised at the high levels of road noise when I was driven in another Superb II taxi (pre facelift) - I think it was an Elegance model.

 

However,  back in the days when I restored cars and built a kit car -  I used  bitumen pads to great effect to drastically reduce noise (especially drumming), and as they were quite thin and didn't mis-shape carpet sets or interfere with trim and were easy to cut/shape. They also didn't absorb water!!!

 

Wheel size has a huge impact on road noise and also different tyre brands/models (especially on rough tarmac). My MK3 came with Continental Sport Contact 5 (235/45 R18) and they are very noisy on rough tarmac. But then again, I would never change them for narrower tyres. 

 

When doing noise deadening on my car, I use butyl mastic sheets with aluminum layer. 2mm sheets for doors (full cover outside and inside), roof, trunk, trunk lid, rear wheel arches (dont know hot to call them), pilars between doors. 4mm sheet for wheel arches from the outside and also from inside (front and rear),  hood, front floor and transmisson tunnel. Butyl mastic sheet most important task is to cut out all vibration but it also absorbs sound so I usually cover as much as I can. When making my first sound deadening (I think its my 4-th car to sound deaden), I only used bityl mastic sheets but now I have understood that multi layer makes huge difference. For that I use 4mm noise isolator on wheel arches on the outside (front and rear), pilar between dors, front floor, rear wheel arches (dont know hot to call them but its around the fuel cap), trunk lid. There is a link for it but in UK it they dont seems to have 4mm version but 6mm: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/isolator/products/silent-coat-isolator-6-large-sheet

I also use sound absorber from Silent Coat (https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/sound-absorber/products/silent-coat-absorber-15-sheet). It absorbs higher frequency noise but also eliminates interior panel creaks. I'm using 15mm sound absorber on door panels, panels on pilar between door, panels under the doors, trunk lid panel, roof rear arches sides (because the lack af space between rear arches sedes and interior panel). 35mm sound absorber Im using on rear arches (insider, anywhere it fits). 

 

With my MK3 Superb I have discovered a new way to isolate wheel arches. I know that in Russia, they are using similar solution but it's a bit different as shown on the links posted by MartiniB. I remove the wheel and the plastic cover (dont know the name, front is plastic, rear is some "fabric"). I clean the surface and then cover wheel arches (from the outside) with 4mm bityl mastic sheet. Some vibration deadening sheets need pre heated surface so those WILL NOT WORK. I use Silent Coat Extra what needs no heating and I can be sure it wont fall off (also STP works just fine). When bityl sheet is in place and rolled in (I recomend using special roller for all surfaces covered with butyl sheets), I cover it all with 4mm noise isolator. I dont fully cover the plastic arch covers (as on one link MartiniB posted) because I dont have confidence in Skoda plastic parts surviving rough roads with extra weight. But, I do put some strips here and there to kill loose stones noise. 

It was the first thing I did as a sound deadening for my new MK3 and was pleasantly surprised about the effect. For example it killed most of the studs noise of my Continental Ice Contact tyres.

Ahhh, I forgot o clarify that this new (new to me) method of sound deadening wheel arches is an extra. I still do convensional sound deadening from the inside. 

@alf.onso Thanks. Very very useful tips! I bought Superb for quiet driving (because I do drive a lot ^^) so as you said, when its your car you hear every thing... First before I start doing sound deadening  I want to get repaired wishbone bushes and rear hydraulic bushings (again, changed 3 days ago, noises of rear are back...). I did buy some additional rubber seals for front/rear doors (bellow) and I must say difference in wind noise after 140km/h is huge. I was SHOCKED how 2 pieces of rubber can do such big difference. At least for my car anyway. Bought these two: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-Lot-Car-Sound-Insulation-Rubber-Sealing-Strip-For-B-Pillar-Noise-Windproof-Door-Seal-Strip/32808858106.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.ryMdgL

Can't imagine the difference when I get the rest of goods ^^. I noticed biggest road noise difference when driving with my friends Mondeo (bought from Police). This car had some additional noise deadening and the road noise was just not there. After sitting into Superb the road noise started annoying me  and funny thing is I never noticed it before...

@JackySi Those rubber seals are interesting! I never noticed too much wind noise but then again you can't drive much faster than 120km/h in Estonia. Well, maybe only when you pass someone but then you pay more attention to other things than wind noise. I know that Skodas for nordic countries have some extra sound deadening from factory but I doubt they have done anything about the wind noise. 

 

Doing sound deadening for MK3 Superb is much more simple than it was for MK2. It takes time but if you have two hands, some basic tools and free time, then its fun project to do. 

6 hours ago, alf.onso said:

Ahhh, I forgot o clarify that this new (new to me) method of sound deadening wheel arches is an extra. I still do convensional sound deadening from the inside. 

How much material does it take? It sounds like a plan to do. I have done internally sound deadening.

57 minutes ago, Paikesejanku said:

How much material does it take? It sounds like a plan to do. I have done internally sound deadening.

I have to dig into my order history a bit and into my brain too but will give you some numbers tomorrow. Front wheel arches took very little but rear ones more than I anticipated.

Edited 13 May, 20188 yr by alf.onso

@Paikesejanku Ok, here are the numbers as much as I could dig out and remember.

In total I used about 14 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Extra (one sheet 0,1m2/sheet) and 5 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Noise Isolator (0,375m2/sheet). 

If I recall correctly, then front wheel arches took 2 sheets of SCE each and rear wheel arches 5 sheets of SCE each. 

 

As rear takes so much material, you can first do fronts. You can also wait until I have finished my rear wheel arches from the inside and take a test drive to hear if there is any difference with your car.

10 hours ago, alf.onso said:

@Paikesejanku Ok, here are the numbers as much as I could dig out and remember.

In total I used about 14 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Extra (one sheet 0,1m2/sheet) and 5 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Noise Isolator (0,375m2/sheet). 

If I recall correctly, then front wheel arches took 2 sheets of SCE each and rear wheel arches 5 sheets of SCE each. 

 

As rear takes so much material, you can first do fronts. You can also wait until I have finished my rear wheel arches from the inside and take a test drive to hear if there is any difference with your car.

Thank you, for the details.

On 5/13/2018 at 20:45, alf.onso said:

@Paikesejanku Ok, here are the numbers as much as I could dig out and remember.

In total I used about 14 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Extra (one sheet 0,1m2/sheet) and 5 sheets of 4mm Silent Coat Noise Isolator (0,375m2/sheet). 

If I recall correctly, then front wheel arches took 2 sheets of SCE each and rear wheel arches 5 sheets of SCE each. 

 

As rear takes so much material, you can first do fronts. You can also wait until I have finished my rear wheel arches from the inside and take a test drive to hear if there is any difference with your car.

Sounds like a lot of material, how much did you pay in total? I'm really thinking A LOT to get this done my self ( I couldn't find any shops doing it in Slovenia ) so I need to make some summary first :=). I will get all done at once I guess. Or at least 8-12 hours a day haha

@JackySi Well, as I do all the work myself (I like to pay attention to small details that specialized shops don't and a I actually like sound deadening) I buy materials only for those parts I plan to finish next time. Im not 100% sure how much materials exactly is needed in total because MK3 js much different from MK2. Taking measurements gives me some direction but it's never 100% correct so thats why I havent purchased all materials for entire car. Doing few parts at once also gives me better understanding where the noise actually is coming. 

 

But, I can tell you how much exactly I have spent and how much I have finished. 

In total I have spent 309 euros and 91 cents. 

 

And I have done with it:
- hood
- trunk

- trunk lid

- rear fenders

- doors

- rear wheel arches from the outside

- front wheel arches  from the outside

- pilars between doors

 

Wheel arches from the outside costed a big amount of that budget. It was 76 euros and 62 cents. 

 

And I have materials for doing rear wheel arches from the inside (included in that 309 euros) + few more sheets. 

 

I have also calculated the cost for front wheel arches (inside) and front floors. Butyl mastic sheets for that will cost 48 euros and 96 cents + sound isolator sheets 8 euros and 12 cents. So without the roof and couple of more small things the sound deadening would cost me 366 euros and 99 cents. 

 

What else I need to do:

- I'm not yet sure how much material the roof takes but will definately cover it. Cost is around 50-65 euros (two layers).

- firewall from the engine side (cost about 6 euros).

- rear floor, if I'm not happy with rear sounds would cost about 50 euros or a bit more.

- and I will use butyl + isolators for some interior panels that I'm not happy with. cost about 10 euros. 

 

Getting specialized shop doing this work would cost about 1200 euros (with materials) and for that money they would do less. 

 

 

 

I forgot to mention that a sound deadening master (who I know) who does it as a day job once told me that it takes him about two full working days to finish entire car. And I think he has an aprentice helping. So would not encourage  you to plan entire car at once Its my fourth car to sound deaden and one front door of my MK3 took me 1,5 - 2 hours. 

That sounds like quite a lot of money (1200€). I meant something like that, doing front doors + hood in one day for example. Would be cool knowing actual measurement of decibels at certain speeds/roads for statistics. I'm not sure how long I plan to keep the car, but 300-400€ doesn't sound a lot. Specially compared to what some people pay for "looks" e.g. full foil wraps, new alloys etc...

 

Interesting is the hood. Looking at my cars hood it looks there is already A LOT of sound deadening material under the hood. I actually don't hear engine much. At speeds like 180kmh/200kmh (Just came from Germany) the biggest issue was road noise and the wind noise (coming from windows, it felt like). Engine was pretty quiet. Could be MY18 or am I just not annoyed by engine as much (190HP diesel)?

 

Any how. I will start with front/rear wheel arches I guess, Then move to doors and perhaps stick to that (we'll see how much road noise is gone). The other stuff don't bother me much, like water noise on rainy day or wind noise at current levels. Mostly is the road. I do have quiet Hankook tyres (68db rating i think) but I still hear much. I just worry damaging something in process and the warranty could be void at these big procedures ( 6 years here )?

Last question ( possibly heh ), how long do you plan to keep your Superb?

11 hours ago, JackySi said:

That sounds like quite a lot of money (1200€). I meant something like that, doing front doors + hood in one day for example. Would be cool knowing actual measurement of decibels at certain speeds/roads for statistics. I'm not sure how long I plan to keep the car, but 300-400€ doesn't sound a lot. Specially compared to what some people pay for "looks" e.g. full foil wraps, new alloys etc...

 

Interesting is the hood. Looking at my cars hood it looks there is already A LOT of sound deadening material under the hood. I actually don't hear engine much. At speeds like 180kmh/200kmh (Just came from Germany) the biggest issue was road noise and the wind noise (coming from windows, it felt like). Engine was pretty quiet. Could be MY18 or am I just not annoyed by engine as much (190HP diesel)?

 

Any how. I will start with front/rear wheel arches I guess, Then move to doors and perhaps stick to that (we'll see how much road noise is gone). The other stuff don't bother me much, like water noise on rainy day or wind noise at current levels. Mostly is the road. I do have quiet Hankook tyres (68db rating i think) but I still hear much. I just worry damaging something in process and the warranty could be void at these big procedures ( 6 years here )?

Last question ( possibly heh ), how long do you plan to keep your Superb?

The most classic way is to do doors (inside and outside full cover + door panel with sound isolator), front floor with front wheel arches (only butyl mastics sheets), rear wheel arches from the inside (butyl mastics sheets + noise isolator), boot floor (only butyl mastics), hood, trunk walls and trunk lid. I would also add to that list the pilar between doors. 

 

Doing front floor from the inside has much better effect than doing just front wheel arches from the outside and doing rear wheel arches from the inside takes much less material. 

But as doing front wheel arches from the outside is so crazy simple + it takes very little material, I would recomend to first do front wheel arches from the outside and see how much effect you get. You can skip doing rear wheel arches from the outside and deaden them from the inside. Again you will save from the costs.

 

Superb's hood actualy has zero sound deadening material. The engines itself are so quiet.

Doing hood is not so much about the engine noise it' s more about the road noise. Windshield lets trough a lot of low level noise and there is a lot of that near under the hood. Hood takes about 0,4m2 of 3mm butyl mastics sheets.

 

Roof is not only done for rain noise. When you drive on the highway, then thr roof acts like a big drum. You won't hear it but you feel more tired after a long trip. 

 

You mentioned noise from the windows? Do you have ordinary front windows or with extra sound isolation (three layer glass)? I have three layer windows in front and they are superb on Superb.

 

Im planning to keep my Superb for about 5 years or so. Drove my MK2 over 6 years and it was too much (started to need lots for repairs). But then again this MK2 was one of the first of its kind in Estonia so it had some child problems. 

 

I don't mind questions at all. When you start dismantling your car and want help on how to remove some panel, take a picture and let me know. 

 

And you are right about the costs. Sportsline rear difusor and painted sportsline rear spoiler costed me more than entire sound deadening. 

 

 

 

How hard it is to uncover front floor? I seriously consider to open it up and put something on the metal there. I feel vibrations from floor.

3 hours ago, alf.onso said:

The most classic way is to do doors (inside and outside full cover + door panel with sound isolator), front floor with front wheel arches (only butyl mastics sheets), rear wheel arches from the inside (butyl mastics sheets + noise isolator), boot floor (only butyl mastics), hood, trunk walls and trunk lid. I would also add to that list the pilar between doors. 

 

Doing front floor from the inside has much better effect than doing just front wheel arches from the outside and doing rear wheel arches from the inside takes much less material. 

But as doing front wheel arches from the outside is so crazy simple + it takes very little material, I would recomend to first do front wheel arches from the outside and see how much effect you get. You can skip doing rear wheel arches from the outside and deaden them from the inside. Again you will save from the costs.

 

Superb's hood actualy has zero sound deadening material. The engines itself are so quiet.

Doing hood is not so much about the engine noise it' s more about the road noise. Windshield lets trough a lot of low level noise and there is a lot of that near under the hood. Hood takes about 0,4m2 of 3mm butyl mastics sheets.

 

Roof is not only done for rain noise. When you drive on the highway, then thr roof acts like a big drum. You won't hear it but you feel more tired after a long trip. 

 

You mentioned noise from the windows? Do you have ordinary front windows or with extra sound isolation (three layer glass)? I have three layer windows in front and they are superb on Superb.

 

Im planning to keep my Superb for about 5 years or so. Drove my MK2 over 6 years and it was too much (started to need lots for repairs). But then again this MK2 was one of the first of its kind in Estonia so it had some child problems. 

 

I don't mind questions at all. When you start dismantling your car and want help on how to remove some panel, take a picture and let me know. 

 

And you are right about the costs. Sportsline rear difusor and painted sportsline rear spoiler costed me more than entire sound deadening. 

 

 

 

I see. I'm waiting for new hood because some one didn't like my Superb so he jumped on it and bend the hood. So that will come little later. Um so what exactly is this 4cm thick material on the hood? Is that like firewall? I was sure its sound deadening material but now I'm really wondering what else it could be :D. The windows when I was ordering my car they didn't tell me there is option to get better acoustic windows. I'm kind of mad about that. I ordered my car on May 2017 and at time of ordering they didn't mention new option for acoustic windows. So I have normal windows =(. That probably limits amount of sound insulation I can do, because if I do all the things you did I will probably still get a lot of noise from Windows right? I actually already feel most wind noise comes through Windows =(.

What do you mean about the arches outside? I thought sound deadening should be done behind the plastic wheel arches? Also deadening rear arches inside/outside I'm guessing in cabin / behind plastic?
About the doors I also don't exactly understand, you took apart door panel, glued the insulation there, then took apart whole window and did the panels too? I imagine that's the way doors are built, could be inaccurate.  
 

I have been looking for this sort of information all over internet. To learn about sound deadening and your knowledge is just awesome. This is really helpful THANK YOU!

5 hours ago, Paikesejanku said:

How hard it is to uncover front floor? I seriously consider to open it up and put something on the metal there. I feel vibrations from floor.

Its not hard. You gotta take away the side panels first and they have simple pull off clips. Most likely the hardest thing is to remove the hood leaver. I havent had time to see how it comes off but it's different than MK2 had.

Proper would be taking off the front sheets but I won't bother. I havent seen a big effect doing deadening under the seats and I have Canton amplifier under driver seat anyways.

 

Front floor is crazy important when it comes to sound deadening. It's a huge amount of metal sheet and it vibrates like a hell. 

Be sure not to use regular 2mm butyl mastics sheets on floor but thicker 3mm sheets.

5 hours ago, JackySi said:

I see. I'm waiting for new hood because some one didn't like my Superb so he jumped on it and bend the hood. So that will come little later. Um so what exactly is this 4cm thick material on the hood? Is that like firewall? I was sure its sound deadening material but now I'm really wondering what else it could be :D. The windows when I was ordering my car they didn't tell me there is option to get better acoustic windows. I'm kind of mad about that. I ordered my car on May 2017 and at time of ordering they didn't mention new option for acoustic windows. So I have normal windows =(. That probably limits amount of sound insulation I can do, because if I do all the things you did I will probably still get a lot of noise from Windows right? I actually already feel most wind noise comes through Windows =(.

What do you mean about the arches outside? I thought sound deadening should be done behind the plastic wheel arches? Also deadening rear arches inside/outside I'm guessing in cabin / behind plastic?
About the doors I also don't exactly understand, you took apart door panel, glued the insulation there, then took apart whole window and did the panels too? I imagine that's the way doors are built, could be inaccurate.  
 

I have been looking for this sort of information all over internet. To learn about sound deadening and your knowledge is just awesome. This is really helpful THANK YOU!

4cm sound isolation on the hood? I don't recall anything like that when I disasembeled mine. There was only 3-4mm cover that is intended for heat and high level noise (and for estetic purposes) but no vibration deadening materials. 

 

When we go into car sound deadening theory, then first and most important thing is to eliminate the vibrations. Car metal panels are like a big speaker membranes that create noise when vibrating. To remove the vibrations we need to add mass (most effective when mass is on the center of the panel). The effect is same as putting a finger on a speaker membrane when the music is playing. The rule is that when you cover 12% of the metal panel center, you loose about 40% of the vibrations. So from the vibrations point of view you would not need to cover more than 65% of the metal panel but as vibration deadening sheets also block low level noise, the panels are covered fully. 

 

If you ordered your car on May, then front windows with extra sound isolator were not available yet. I think they came on week 22 or something like that. We ordered our can on 22 August and recieved it on 5-th October. When ordering our dealer had not yet seen those windows but only on drawings. 

 

With wheel arches from the outside I mean from the wheel side (between plastic wheel arches and real wheel arches). Its not so common to do sound deadening from the wheel sides. Most common is to do entire front floor from the cabin side and doing it you also cover front wheel arches from the inside of cabin. Same thing with rear wheel arches. Doing them from the inside I meant doing them from the cabin side. Doing wheel arches from the outside is usually an extra thing when you have already done everything from the cabin side.
I have to mention that I would not dare to use cheap vibration deadening materials on the outside wheel arches. Cheap stuff would probably just fall off with the first warm weather. I only use stuff I trust 100% with such demanding places, like Silent Coat, STP, Dynamat. Well, Dynamat is way overpriced IMHO and STP is too thin (1,8mm and 2,5mm) so I'm happy with Silent Coat. 

 

I would not worry about having regular side windows. My MK2 had same and I got very good results with sound deadening. 

 

Doing doors is actually very simple on MK3. You remove the door panel and remove all electric plugs. Then you see a big plastic cover and pull it off (there are two platic panels on each door). You dont even have to tape up the windows because windows motor is attatched to the metal part of the door. The hole (where that plastic cover came off) is large enough so you can cover entire outside panel of the door. To get better results behind the speaker, you might want to drill out the speaker rivets and remove the speaker itself but that's not mandatory. I managed to fully cover behind the speakers without removing the speakers (it took some acrobatic skills though). 

After you have fully covered the outside panel, put back the plastic cover and cover entire inside panel of the door (around the speaker I would use 3mm material). Also cover the plastic covers. 

Next you take the door interior panel and cover it with 15mm sound isolator. Connect electric plugs and you are good to go.

Door panel clips are easy to break so buy few from your dealer before doing the work. When starting to remove the panels, let me know and I will send you a picture of the disasemly drawings (got from my dealer). 

16 hours ago, alf.onso said:

4cm sound isolation on the hood? I don't recall anything like that when I disasembeled mine. There was only 3-4mm cover that is intended for heat and high level noise (and for estetic purposes) but no vibration deadening materials. 

 

When we go into car sound deadening theory, then first and most important thing is to eliminate the vibrations. Car metal panels are like a big speaker membranes that create noise when vibrating. To remove the vibrations we need to add mass (most effective when mass is on the center of the panel). The effect is same as putting a finger on a speaker membrane when the music is playing. The rule is that when you cover 12% of the metal panel center, you loose about 40% of the vibrations. So from the vibrations point of view you would not need to cover more than 65% of the metal panel but as vibration deadening sheets also block low level noise, the panels are covered fully. 

 

If you ordered your car on May, then front windows with extra sound isolator were not available yet. I think they came on week 22 or something like that. We ordered our can on 22 August and recieved it on 5-th October. When ordering our dealer had not yet seen those windows but only on drawings. 

 

With wheel arches from the outside I mean from the wheel side (between plastic wheel arches and real wheel arches). Its not so common to do sound deadening from the wheel sides. Most common is to do entire front floor from the cabin side and doing it you also cover front wheel arches from the inside of cabin. Same thing with rear wheel arches. Doing them from the inside I meant doing them from the cabin side. Doing wheel arches from the outside is usually an extra thing when you have already done everything from the cabin side.
I have to mention that I would not dare to use cheap vibration deadening materials on the outside wheel arches. Cheap stuff would probably just fall off with the first warm weather. I only use stuff I trust 100% with such demanding places, like Silent Coat, STP, Dynamat. Well, Dynamat is way overpriced IMHO and STP is too thin (1,8mm and 2,5mm) so I'm happy with Silent Coat. 

 

I would not worry about having regular side windows. My MK2 had same and I got very good results with sound deadening. 

 

Doing doors is actually very simple on MK3. You remove the door panel and remove all electric plugs. Then you see a big plastic cover and pull it off (there are two platic panels on each door). You dont even have to tape up the windows because windows motor is attatched to the metal part of the door. The hole (where that plastic cover came off) is large enough so you can cover entire outside panel of the door. To get better results behind the speaker, you might want to drill out the speaker rivets and remove the speaker itself but that's not mandatory. I managed to fully cover behind the speakers without removing the speakers (it took some acrobatic skills though). 

After you have fully covered the outside panel, put back the plastic cover and cover entire inside panel of the door (around the speaker I would use 3mm material). Also cover the plastic covers. 

Next you take the door interior panel and cover it with 15mm sound isolator. Connect electric plugs and you are good to go.

Door panel clips are easy to break so buy few from your dealer before doing the work. When starting to remove the panels, let me know and I will send you a picture of the disasemly drawings (got from my dealer). 

 

I need to check, but I'd say its firewall as you said. Its very "dry" material too. Not too dense. So you took that off and put the sound deadening (self adhesive I'm guessing?) on the internal side of hood?
Thank you so much! I will get on it soon! Your answers are really very accurate :=)

I need to have some free time and then I'll get right on it. The clips I know are easy to break, I broke quite few on my moms Octavia when I had to take door panel apart. But I bought them on Ebay. Dunno which ones Superb has and if dealer will sell me some. I will ask on Wednesday (hood change). I'm still worried about color match for that issue >_<. Yeah the insulation sounds really hard job (time consuming), but worth. I have to say my Superb already feels "quiet" I can't wait to hear differences when I start adding material to panels. When I do doors, hood, arches and rear I'll see how much quieter Superb will be, if it will be enough ok, otherwise I'll do floor/roof too. 

I was planning to materials you suggested. All though pricing for such material sounds a lot to me, but as we compared before with "stylish" looks its cheap for actual purpose which means a lot to me. To some sound insulation doesn't mean a thing. To me its a lot. Specially cause I'm sound enthusiast, so I love to listen to music while driving. And outside noises ruin my Canton experience =)

7 hours ago, JackySi said:

 

I need to check, but I'd say its firewall as you said. Its very "dry" material too. Not too dense. So you took that off and put the sound deadening (self adhesive I'm guessing?) on the internal side of hood?
Thank you so much! I will get on it soon! Your answers are really very accurate :=)

I need to have some free time and then I'll get right on it. The clips I know are easy to break, I broke quite few on my moms Octavia when I had to take door panel apart. But I bought them on Ebay. Dunno which ones Superb has and if dealer will sell me some. I will ask on Wednesday (hood change). I'm still worried about color match for that issue >_<. Yeah the insulation sounds really hard job (time consuming), but worth. I have to say my Superb already feels "quiet" I can't wait to hear differences when I start adding material to panels. When I do doors, hood, arches and rear I'll see how much quieter Superb will be, if it will be enough ok, otherwise I'll do floor/roof too. 

I was planning to materials you suggested. All though pricing for such material sounds a lot to me, but as we compared before with "stylish" looks its cheap for actual purpose which means a lot to me. To some sound insulation doesn't mean a thing. To me its a lot. Specially cause I'm sound enthusiast, so I love to listen to music while driving. And outside noises ruin my Canton experience =)

 

I took the hood cover off and made a picture for you. Nothing beautiful but functional. Used 3mm Silent Coat butyl mastics sheets.

As you see, its very simple and straightforward thing to do.

And you are right, the butyl mastics sheets are self adhesive. No special preporation or heating needed. Surface must be just dry and clean. I recommend to use some roller though. Like this: https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-deadening-roller. Without roller you get air pockets on uneven surfaces. I have made such mistake in the past.

 

Im 99% sure that door panel clips for Superb and Octavia are the same but I'm sure that your dealer will sell them. And they dont cost much.

 

After proper sound deadening, your Superb will feel like much more expencive car to drive. The doors will close more quietly and they will close quietly even after some years. The music quality gets much better and not only because you can hear more music because of the quieter ride but sound deadening door panels eliminates most of the vibrations. Outside door panel vibrates with music and acts like a second speaker membrane. The only thing is that it does not make the same sound as your speaker does (more like oposite). So sound deadening the outside door panel, you get rid of the interferance to your speakers. Inside door metal panel is rather thin and when a speaker membrane moves, it also moves the door panel. It means that speaker membrane cant move air as it should. Sound deadening inside metal door panel makes it stiffer and lets the speaker do what it is meant. And adding 15mm sound isolator to the door interior panel will get you rid of that occasional interior panels rattle on extremely high sound level. It is actually much better on MK3 as on MK2 it was a huge problem. And as your Canton mid speaker is connected to your interior panel not to any metal part of the door (yes, you read it right), then 15mm sound isolator will stop him from moving too. 

 

 

 

 

53 minutes ago, alf.onso said:

 

I took the hood cover off and made a picture for you. Nothing beautiful but functional. Used 3mm Silent Coat butyl mastics sheets.

As you see, its very simple and straightforward thing to do.

And you are right, the butyl mastics sheets are self adhesive. No special preporation or heating needed. Surface must be just dry and clean. I recommend to use some roller though. Like this: https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-deadening-roller. Without roller you get air pockets on uneven surfaces. I have made such mistake in the past.

 

Im 99% sure that door panel clips for Superb and Octavia are the same but I'm sure that your dealer will sell them. And they dont cost much.

 

After proper sound deadening, your Superb will feel like much more expencive car to drive. The doors will close more quietly and they will close quietly even after some years. The music quality gets much better and not only because you can hear more music because of the quieter ride but sound deadening door panels eliminates most of the vibrations. Outside door panel vibrates with music and acts like a second speaker membrane. The only thing is that it does not make the same sound as your speaker does (more like oposite). So sound deadening the outside door panel, you get rid of the interferance to your speakers. Inside door metal panel is rather thin and when a speaker membrane moves, it also moves the door panel. It means that speaker membrane cant move air as it should. Sound deadening inside metal door panel makes it stiffer and lets the speaker do what it is meant. And adding 15mm sound isolator to the door interior panel will get you rid of that occasional interior panels rattle on extremely high sound level. It is actually much better on MK3 as on MK2 it was a huge problem. And as your Canton mid speaker is connected to your interior panel not to any metal part of the door (yes, you read it right), then 15mm sound isolator will stop him from moving too. 

 

 

 

 

I see, looks really nice! And the acoustics thing sounds really logic. This is the way studios also do walls so the sound doesn't broadcast from the walls. In car it makes even more sense since panels are very thin
I need to order some asap . I'm just not sure about finances, some things are coming up and reserves are running out so need to wait next paycheck to see how stuff work out =). Not sure I could start some cause then it will get into my blood and it will annoy me if I don't buy more / all :D. You did rear doors too right?

 

How did you do the boot if I may ask? doesn't there the deadening material interfere with the boot cover?
Thank you very very much! 

 

P.S.: I feel little bad your answers are so full and lengthy, while my questions are just few lines :P