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What have you done to your Superb III today?

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On 05/11/2024 at 21:36, Ootohere said:

That is it, you cracked it.

470 bhp out of it and every motoring magazine, many bloggers and vloggers covered it.

Much cheapness media coverage for Skoda UK on a discontinued model.

Might be good for residuals... I have a 280...

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  • Well this was something else....   Not bad for 14 hours work.    

  • rob_g_clarkson
    rob_g_clarkson

    Had the wheels refurb'd... and new centre caps and new tyres all round. Much much nicerer. Before and after

  • BriskodaJeff
    BriskodaJeff

    Chucked a bucket of water over it. Three hours later this is the result.         Happy with that

Posted Images

It might just be. 

 

 

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Had an RPM Performance Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe on Gandalf earlier this week.

Overall happy with the end result.

 

The pipe....

Screenshot_20241127-2128162.png.d4841358b140aa901cce35d0b84fb58c.png

 

Fitted....

PXL_20241126_0816305812.thumb.jpg.2a5460ea1cb72aaf77cbf7cc2b434e57.jpg

 

Video after fitment...

 

 

 

 

 

More details and pics here.

Edited by JR RS

6 hours ago, JR RS said:

Had an RPM Performance Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe on Gandalf earlier this week.

Overall happy with the end result.

 

The pipe....

Screenshot_20241127-2128162.png.d4841358b140aa901cce35d0b84fb58c.png

 

Fitted....

PXL_20241126_0816305812.thumb.jpg.2a5460ea1cb72aaf77cbf7cc2b434e57.jpg

 

Video after fitment...

 

 

 

 

 

More details and pics here.

Sounds good - anti drone is always a nice touch!

13 hours ago, travs said:

Sounds good - anti drone is always a nice touch!

 

Yup, I'm so pleased that there is no drone at all.

 

All the local exhaust shops near me weren't interested in fabricating one for me saying the anti-drone J-pipe is just a gimmick and will never work properly.

21 hours ago, Athrx said:

Finally found the time to do an engine and gearbox oil change today. Bought a set of halfords drive-on ramps, ordered a 32mm socket from amazon.. then scrambled on the day to find the gearbox sump plug 14mm allen key and a 24mm socket for the filter. 

So, keys needed:

T25, T40 for skid pan

19mm socket for drain bolt (may need breaker bar)

13 (?) mm socket with extension for filter oil drain (not 100% sure)

32mm filter housing removal

Lots of wipes/paper towels

For gearbox

14mm allen key for sump plug

8mm allen key for plastic insert

13mm socket to remove battery

24mm socket and some kind of pivoting/joint extension. No need to take air box and battery tray out! 

Lots of wipes

Vas6262 fill hose (find a service kit with it included, don't buy separate)

Vcds for temperature monitoring, although if it was done with a hot engine it will be above 40°C in seconds.

Also vcds to reset all battery related faults and do service interval reset.

 

Straight away i'm now getting 50mpg just cruising on some 40mph b-roads. Gearbox no longer seems to try to stay inbetween gears when i put my foot down (could feel a bump when it finally decided). Smooth as butter.

 

All together with head scratching and tea from neighbour it took about 3 hours. Not too bad. Dealer wants £600 for this job. Oils and filters come out to £170

Did you buy the orange ramps?

 

I got a pair ages ago but couldn’t drive my SEL on it as the front bumper would scrape, despite having a wheel arch gap big enough to fit a family of 4.

 

I had to put some wood In front, I’d rather not but wondering if you got the same ramps 

Yes, orange ramps. Maybe they were reworked at some point? These are right at the limit when climbing on (about 15mm away from inner edge). May be important to note that i have dcc and 4x4. I know dcc sits 10mm lower but also has the rear completely level with the front. For £45 really can't complain

12v low voltage warning message came up yesterday after car had been sitting on drive for a week in cold weather. Now on trickle / conditioning charge for a couple of days. We are using my wife's EV more & more of late, except for a 1 week holiday to Somerset & Dorset recently, so the Superb isn't getting many miles.   

On 31/08/2024 at 10:22, JR RS said:

Mission accomplished - MIB2 to MIB2.5 conversion on Gandalf!

The whole process was quite easy to do.

Those with a MIB2 unit, aka Columbus (Harman version) with 8" screen can do the upgrade. i.e. MY15 to MY17.

No need to change the glovebox head unit. Just the screen.

I sourced a secondhand 9.2" Screen from a MY18 Superb being wrecked.

Got the G11 to G13 firmware conversion from mibsolution.

Then once done, reinstalled the latest maps.


I'll need getting used to where the things r cause there r no more physical buttons.

Will do a how-to-guide soon.

 

20240830_134242-COLLAGE.thumb.jpg.de23cddc304b1427e71f68c54d354e4f.jpg

 

PXL_20240831_000226457.thumb.jpg.2ef23236bacebf953be3da6270a4f674.jpg

 

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Fits in nice & solid, however there is a gap at the top behind the top of the screen and the trim piece.

U can't see it unless u look through the windscreen.

I'll look into sourcing this trim piece in the near future.

PXL_20240831_005016432.thumb.jpg.ab81d4e98ccbea4afaadcab5af47b079.jpg

Where you been able to source the trim piece to cover the gap.

This some days ago ... fitted a XLR throttle box, noticeable improvement in riding comfort! Even on N is already better than the original setting!

I usually use it S or S+ and already found it more than adequate.

 

Have a laugh ... I fitted the controller "temporarily" in the coin/storage box by the steering wheel, since I was not sure I was going to like it or not.

I usually open the box, change a setting, and drive, so I can evaluate how it performs.

 

I am driving in traffic stop-and-go so to avoid too fast reaction I open and pass from S+ to N ... close the box and after a moment I notice car starts to become jerky and kangarooing like a mad horse ... I open the box and my handgel-bottles surely pressed and it was in R+ 😁🤪

Cannot imagine what it must be driving at WOT in R+ setting .... must be wild!

 

Another step forward.

 

1 hour ago, leolito said:

This some days ago ... fitted a XLR throttle box, noticeable improvement in riding comfort! Even on N is already better than the original setting!

I usually use it S or S+ and already found it more than adequate.

 

Have a laugh ... I fitted the controller "temporarily" in the coin/storage box by the steering wheel, since I was not sure I was going to like it or not.

I usually open the box, change a setting, and drive, so I can evaluate how it performs.

 

I am driving in traffic stop-and-go so to avoid too fast reaction I open and pass from S+ to N ... close the box and after a moment I notice car starts to become jerky and kangarooing like a mad horse ... I open the box and my handgel-bottles surely pressed and it was in R+ 😁🤪

Cannot imagine what it must be driving at WOT in R+ setting .... must be wild!

 

Another step forward.

 

Yep. R+ with DSG Sport mode is pretty savage.

Mine's set for N which takes out the DSG hesitation nicely.

On 30/11/2024 at 16:07, superb5335 said:

Where you been able to source the trim piece to cover the gap.

 

Not yet, I'm still looking for one at the wreckers.

Too expensive to buy brand new from Europe.

 

I'm in no rush - as mentioned, u can't see the gap when ur seated inside the car, nor will u notice it when looking in through the windscreen, unless u specifically know where to look.

Hi, 

Yesterday, I finally put my winter wheels on, checked front and rear brake discs and pads (127000km on the clock, all original ones except rear pads).

I also regreased the front and rear sway bars silent blocks with marine grease (an excellent tip from our Master PhD Skoda expert @ApertureS 👋 🙏). I did it one year ago, and it removed all squeaks and creaks when driving over speed bumps. They started coming back only 2 weeks ago.

This morning, my Mk3 was silent again over speed bumps. 😃

Tested & approved! 😉

Edited by Bap33

9 hours ago, leolito said:

This some days ago ... fitted a XLR throttle box, noticeable improvement in riding comfort! Even on N is already better than the original setting!

I usually use it S or S+ and already found it more than adequate.

 

Have a laugh ... I fitted the controller "temporarily" in the coin/storage box by the steering wheel, since I was not sure I was going to like it or not.

I usually open the box, change a setting, and drive, so I can evaluate how it performs.

 

I am driving in traffic stop-and-go so to avoid too fast reaction I open and pass from S+ to N ... close the box and after a moment I notice car starts to become jerky and kangarooing like a mad horse ... I open the box and my handgel-bottles surely pressed and it was in R+ 😁🤪

Cannot imagine what it must be driving at WOT in R+ setting .... must be wild!

 

Another step forward.

 

I call it “how it should be”. Honestly, started on S+, moved up to R+ within about a week. Never taken it out since

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello!

 

I will need to replace my front absorbers . Its a dcc model. Should i buy the oem one or the aftermarket monroe will be good ? Can you help me thanks. 
 

 

Agree ... don't give in 😁

The mechanic replaced the steering rack with a used one. The part no is different.

Original one:- 3Q2 423 051 H

 

Replacement - 5Q2 423 051 AB

 

There are no errors, but it's not as comfortable as the original one. I mean it's not light at slow speeds as the stock one.

 

Is there anything like dataset or adaptations that need to be changed, to make it work like the stock one.

31 minutes ago, superb5335 said:

The mechanic replaced the steering rack with a used one. The part no is different.

Original one:- 3Q2 423 051 H

 

Replacement - 5Q2 423 051 AB

 

There are no errors, but it's not as comfortable as the original one. I mean it's not light at slow speeds as the stock one.

 

Is there anything like dataset or adaptations that need to be changed, to make it work like the stock one.

Why did you replace steering rack?

Due to play in the steering rack, had changed tie rod ends and bushes , which didn't solve it.

1 hour ago, superb5335 said:

Due to play in the steering rack, had changed tie rod ends and bushes , which didn't solve it.

Ok. I know that there is an issue with the steering rack clunking on MQB, which can be resolved by lubrication and tightening of the steering rack

On 01/12/2024 at 22:34, Bap33 said:

Hi, 

Yesterday, I finally put my winter wheels on, checked front and rear brake discs and pads (127000km on the clock, all original ones except rear pads).

I also regreased the front and rear sway bars silent blocks with marine grease (an excellent tip from our Master PhD Skoda expert @ApertureS 👋 🙏). I did it one year ago, and it removed all squeaks and creaks when driving over speed bumps. They started coming back only 2 weeks ago.

This morning, my Mk3 was silent again over speed bumps. 😃

Tested & approved! 😉

Do you have a link to the marine grease you used? Thanks.

59 minutes ago, Steviedakota said:

Do you have a link to the marine grease you used?

Just jumping in on this, apologies:

this is the marine grease I prefer for outboard engines and boat trailer hubs etc ( after trying many over the years). It doesnt harden with time like some do, and very resistant to washing off or emulsifying.

Will use this when the time comes on the Skoda bushes:

( Quicksilver being the consumables brand from Mercury/Mariner):


https://www.marinechandlery.com/products/mc-2-4-c-grease?variant=48267389993307&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorX6Q1P0HsUSziSSXj_NoxjZ8rn_uQE0T5OAcWqkgdWFle_mkiNhf8

 

 

 

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