@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay.

its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there.

u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through.
no need to remove the airbox either.

close up of the grommet .....

grommet located just above where the felt ends......

blue line showing the path

34 minutes ago, JR RS said:

@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay.

its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there.

u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through.
no need to remove the airbox either.

close up of the grommet .....

grommet located just above where the felt ends......

blue line showing the path

Thanks. Will have a look at this tomorrow. If I can get through there I’ll return the conduit!

17 hours ago, JR RS said:

@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay.

its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there.

u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through.
no need to remove the airbox either.

close up of the grommet .....

grommet located just above where the felt ends......

blue line showing the path

Couldn’t find this grommet at all. So went back to plan B. I ran the cables across the back of the bay in some heat proof conduit and then tucked it down behind the heat shield and in through the clutch grommet.

Wires all terminated and routed next to the PDC controller ready for when the correct 18 pin plug arrives.

Today I removed the Ali express blind spot detection kit.

I wasn’t comfortable with how it worked.

• It only detected vehicles that were gaining on you, if they were alongside at the same speed the light went off.

• It only detected 80% of those vehicles that gained on you.

• It just flat out did not work in the rain. And when visibility is poor is when you need it most.

If I cannot trust it 100% then it’s not worth having. It was always just an experiment and proof of concept to see what the kits were like. No wires were cut as part of the install so removal was straightforward. No harm done other than £40 and my time. And I enjoyed the experiment so it was just a small cost. I am wholly expecting some “I told you so” comments!

I may look to do OEM fit in future but for the cost even with second hand parts, and the in depth coding required, probably not for what I would gain.

Hopefully finish off the front OPS set up today if the unit I am waiting on doesn’t need a new dataset.

Edited 9 hours ago9 hr by Binx1310

Tis a shame it didn't work out, then again not surprised given its an AliExpress version.

1 hour ago, Binx1310 said:

Heute habe ich das Totwinkel-Erkennungsset von AliExpress ausgebaut.

Mir gefiel die Funktionsweise nicht.

• Es erkannte nur Fahrzeuge, die aufholten; wenn sie mit der gleichen Geschwindigkeit neben Ihnen fuhren, ging das Licht aus.

• Es erkannte nur 80 % der Fahrzeuge, die auf Sie aufholten.

• Es funktionierte im Regen einfach überhaupt nicht. Und gerade bei schlechter Sicht braucht man es am dringendsten.

Wenn ich dem Ganzen nicht hundertprozentig vertrauen kann, ist es die Anschaffung nicht wert. Es war ja nur ein Experiment und ein Machbarkeitsnachweis, um zu sehen, wie die Bausätze so sind. Beim Einbau wurden keine Kabel durchtrennt, der Ausbau war also unkompliziert. Außer 40 Pfund und meiner Zeit ist nichts passiert. Und da mir das Experiment Spaß gemacht hat, waren die Kosten ja gering. Ich bin schon auf einige „Ich hab’s dir ja gesagt“-Kommentare gefasst!

Ich könnte mir vorstellen, in Zukunft auf OEM-Passform umzusteigen, aber angesichts der Kosten, selbst bei gebrauchten Teilen, und des erforderlichen detaillierten Codierungsaufwands, lohnt sich das wahrscheinlich nicht.

Hoffentlich kann ich heute noch die Einrichtung des vorderen OPS abschließen, falls das Gerät, auf das ich warte, keinen neuen Datensatz benötigt.

Ich habe 2 Stück OEM Skoda Halter für blind Spot daheim. Besorge dir 2 fix fertig codierte und Parametrierte 2Q0 Steuergeräte. Lege dir dafür die 3D Druck Adapter dazu. @Lutz_91 hat die selben. Hab einen funktionierenden vas5054a noch bekommst dazu. Du brauchst dich nur um Kabel Satz und Außenspiegel kümmern.

Alles andere per PM

I have two OEM Skoda blind spot brackets at home. For Superb 3 Combi. Get yourself two pre-coded and parameterized 2Q0 control units. Also get the 3D-printed adapters. @Lutz_91 has the same ones. I also have a working VAS5054A unit that you'll get with it. You only need to take care of the wiring harness and the side mirrors.

Everything else via PM.

Edited 8 hours ago8 hr by Cairus

1 hour ago, Cairus said:

I have two OEM Skoda blind spot sensor holders at home. Get yourself two pre-coded and parameterized 2Q0 control units. Also get the 3D-printed adapters for them.@Lutz_91They're the same. I also have a working VAS5054A that you'll get with it. You only need to take care of the wiring harness and the side mirrors.

Everything else via PM

I have two OEM Skoda blind spot brackets at home. For Superb 3 Combi. Get yourself two pre-coded and parameterized 2Q0 control units. So get the 3D printed adapters.@Lutz_91has the same ones. I also have a working VAS5054A unit that you'll get with it. You only need to take care of the wiring harness and the side mirrors.

Everything else via PM.

Sounds very tempting. I’ll have a search and see what the control modules would cost. Wiring harness is £40 from Ali.

Success with the parking sensor retrofit. Just a bit of coding to tidy up.

I will check the Moduls for you, to all setting on the table and send you with the Other Things

It works 100%. I didn't want to do it at first either, but I ended up switching from the 5Q0 to the 2Q0 anyway. I made the adapter wiring harness myself. Just popped in a 3D-printed adapter and that was it. Adjusted the coding, and it works great—with LEDs in both the mirror housing and the glass

What is the 3d printed part for?

Hi,

@Binx1310 Just sharing my humble experience. I used to have BSD LEDs in the mirror glasses on my ex Superb Mk3, but I way more prefer the BSD LEDs in the mirror housings on my current Kodiaq Mk1. Additionally, you can trim the LEDs intensity from the MMI (assuming you get OEM parts and correct coding). Much safer!

2 minutes ago, Bap33 said:

Hi,

@Binx1310 Just sharing my humble experience. I used to have BSD LEDs in the mirror glasses on my ex Superb Mk3, but I way more prefer the BSD LEDs in the mirror housings on my current Kodiaq Mk1. Additionally, you can trim the LEDs intensity from the MMI (assuming you get OEM parts and correct coding). Much safer!

This is what I would do. I already jumped the gun on the previous project and bought Passat B8 LEDs and a spare set of mirror housings to mount them in to. Will need cutting and gluing but a significantly cheaper option than the pre-made ones on AliExpress, or OEM.