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What have you done to your Superb III today?


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6 hours ago, greg_aniol said:

Hi

I was trying to fit into mine but there is no connectors at all. Are they hidden somewhere? 

 

u'll need to tap into the window motor for positive connection, and into one of the door pins as the trigger (switched ground).  you can read how I did it here.

mine was wired up so it only turns on when the particular rear door is open.

 

  

3 hours ago, john999boy said:

The lights should come with a connector and flying leads which go into a multi-plug inside the door.

The door card needs to be removed and the lights need coding afterwards. :thumbup:

 

sorry, that is incorrect.  there is no plug'n'play connector, nor is there any coding required.

I don't know if it also applies to L&K variants.

Edited by JR RS
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37 minutes ago, JR RS said:

sorry, that is incorrect.  there is no plug'n'play connector, nor is there any coding required.

I don't know if it also applies to L&K variants.

I stand corrected then. :blush

The last time I did this was on another VAG car and that was the process then - similar to your linked thread but I can certainly  remember coding being required with that car.

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On 21/12/2020 at 01:03, Bap33 said:

Also installed these tyres valve caps (less than 1€ on ali) ;) :

IMG-3737.jpg

You probably know, but metal dust caps rust on, and are a nightmare to remove again.

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There is no ferrous metal to rust either in the aluminium dustcap or the brass schrader valve body.

 

So for me being a grease monkey for close to 50 years its a revelation to hear what you assert that others probably know.

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11 hours ago, J.R. said:

There is no ferrous metal to rust either in the aluminium dustcap or the brass schrader valve body.

 

So for me being a grease monkey for close to 50 years its a revelation to hear what you assert that others probably know.

They WILL corrode badly ,its called galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals ,well known in engineering ,many motorcyclist used to use the metal caps resulting in corrosion so severe the valve is ripped out trying to remove cap 🤔🤔

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I am well aware of galvanic corrosion thankyou. First studied it in 1975.

 

I am also aware of the difference between the words "rust" and "corrode", you have gone from one to the other.

 

Anodised aluminium valve caps will not seize on the valves neither will bare aluminium ones if the tyre pressures are checked periodically.

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Of course.if periodically removed they might not seize, BUT go a few months in winter with salt laden roads and they will corrode on ,happened to me when I was commuting yr round by motorcycle, heck of a job to get them off ,easily fixed if some acf 50 or copper grease is used when putting caps on ,personally I see zero point in not sticking with the plastic caps provided 😏

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I was only mentioning it in case others, like me, barely know the difference between rust and corrode, and stick Skoda dealer supplied dust caps (a free "gift"), and a few months later when inflating tyres find they're impossible to remove :) Doh.

Couldn't get the buggers off, ended up getting garage to do it when it went in for MOT.

 

If I ever get them again, I think I'd regularly give the a twist to make sure they're freed up rather than waiting months like I did.

 

I've no idea what the Skoda ones were made of.  They do look much better than cheapo plastic though.

Edited by gsf600y
Spelin
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Bit of a maintenance day today. The car has now done nearly 60k miles, mostly non-motorway so not too surprisingly the (original)  front discs and pads needed replacing. Pleased to find nice large and easily accessible bolts that hold the calliper carrier on. This car always seems very easy to work on. Not like our other car, a BMW Mini. Getting the calliper carriers off that was a bit of a pain. Anyway, shiny new discs and plump new pads now installed.

 

Then on to the cabin pollen filter, which was black and horrible. Note to self - replace more often as they are cheap. Easy to replace, took just a few minutes.

 

New engine air filter installed although the old one didn’t look very dirty. I think I must have replaced it not that long ago and then forgotten!

 

And finally new spark plugs. The NGK platinum ones were pushing £15 each but I suppose if this sets does another 60k that will probably do for the life of the car. In fact the ones I took out (the original ones) looked pretty indistinguishable from the new ones - apart from the shiny ness! No noticeable electrode wear.

 

Needles to say, the car still runs exactly the same as it did before, don’t know why I bothered! Well, it gave me a virtuous feeling I suppose!

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9 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Then on to the cabin pollen filter, which was black and horrible. Note to self - replace more often as they are cheap. Easy to replace, took just a few minutes.

Cabin filter colour also depends on its reference. Actually, the 'activated carbon filter' version is already grey (even if brand new). 

Sparkling white filters are non 'activated carbon filters'. ;) 

 

I had been fooled too several years ago by the filter color, when replacing this filter on an Audi A3 Mk2..

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8 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Cabin filter colour also depends on its reference. Actually, the 'activated carbon filter' version is already grey (even if brand new). 

Sparkling white filters are non 'activated carbon filters'. ;) 

 

I had been fooled too several years ago by the filter color, when replacing this filter on an Audi A3 Mk2..

Yes this is true. But the state of the outgoing filter was filthy, not just a carbon one. It hadn’t been changed in 60k miles so not surprising really.

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I swapped out my fog light bulbs for a different design LED as my previous lamps seemed quite poor. I have the 272 engine so I am limited on lamp design due to poor access from the proximity of the additional cooler. 

 

The new lamps are bright but the throw was still quite shocking. I stumbled across an adjustment screw on each fog lamp and have now raised the height on both sides resulting in actual functioning cornering lamps! I'm a bit annoyed that I'd never actually investigated this before and I had just assumed they we're rubbish! 

 

No photos I'm afraid as I'm at work just now but worth trying if anyone else finds their functionality poor 👍

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Just now, MICKSVRS said:

I also changed my fog bulbs (well my mechanic did). Literally took him less than 10 mins. 
 

 

30D8C244-DA32-4A7E-9D23-21A83A34B768.jpeg

A6CF9D69-FF84-429E-83B0-7DBE32126D84.jpeg

€77.50 from a local car parts shop

 

I did buy Osram night breakers but they were just a regular but brighter bulb. 

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I also got the Skoda valve caps but read here that they can be really difficult to remove. 
 

Maybe a dab of Vaseline (oooh matron) would suffice? 🤷🏻‍♂️

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On 12/01/2021 at 15:50, nicknorman said:

 

 

Then on to the cabin pollen filter, which was black and horrible. Note to self - replace more often as they are cheap. Easy to replace, took just a few minutes.

 

 

 

Would you mind posting the procedure for this? I've never been able to find instructions online. Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Steviedakota said:

 

Would you mind posting the procedure for this? I've never been able to find instructions online. Thanks!

 

Something like that ;)

 

But be careful, the cabin filter is in the wrong direction in this video. The arrow shall point from top to bottom. ;)

 

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3 hours ago, MICKSVRS said:

I also got the Skoda valve caps but read here that they can be really difficult to remove. 
 

Maybe a dab of Vaseline (oooh matron) would suffice? 🤷🏻‍♂️

I didn't put anything on mine. Still OK to remove.

Better than vaseline, I would recommend graphite powder. Since this is a dry lubricant, it will prevent dust and dirt from sticking to the vaseline... ;) 

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