Hmmmm. @arnold did DTUK not offer you a replacement to try or did you not ask for one ? TBH the TDI's can be right PITA in cold weather, cold air is dense air & moisture doesn't help either tends, to create lots of issues for the diesel engine.

 

Andrew & his team have always been great for me or, are you not the 1st owner of the tuningbox? 

Edited 18 November, 20187 yr by themanwithnoaim

I bought both tuning box and pedal box from new. I have always had remaps on 3 previous Octavias with no issues. Just seems odd a few get on well with the box and some have troubles. I recommended a while ago to a mate with a BMW who bought a box and other than idling being a bit rough he's had no issues. I might stick it on again and see how it goes when I get a minute and the car has alot more miles on now. 

 

 

 

Lots of people don't actually understand how tuning boxes work. In very very simple terms, they manipulate sensor data and then rely on the ECU safety and protection measures to stop the engines from going pop rather than any cleverness on behalf of the tuning box.

 

Sometimes the ECU limits are triggered and hence the vehicle goes into limp mode. 

 

DTUK are an excellent company and their boxes are well regarded by the VAG community, however the single biggest issue is they have no means of manipulating the AFR so there is the potential for the engine to run lean, or if it's going the other way and running too rich, your are going to wash lubricant from the bores and foul the plugs. Neither is good so IMHO, AFR is where things get a bit silly. Also they have limited (zero) interaction with the actual ECU data because they have no connectivity to enable this. Racechips operates in a similar manner - fool the car into providing more boost. Simple.

 

A more advanced system such as the JB4 features CANbus connectivity via the ODB2 port, direct AFR control via a sense wire, in-built (additional) systems for safety - Boost, Air/Fuel Ratio, Fuel Trim, Engine Knock, Boost Mapping, Water/Meth controls etc. It's a similar install time wise but slightly more complicated as you need to run a cable back through a grommet in the engine bay into the car and plug it into the ODB port. The BMW guys have been running JB's for years and its also very highly regarded in the Golf community (GTI and R). I just don't get why mire people don't do their research and instead go for the one most people seem to have........

 

Ultimately a really good remap is better but warranty issues are insurmountable so tuning boxes are the DIY equivalent. That said, they are just that; DIY and sometimes, as we all know, DIY goes wrong. I would interact with the manufacturer and work with them to resolve any issues. If it still persists in occurring, take the damn thing off and go elsewhere........

 

Just so I don't get accused of favouritism; I've run a DTUK box on my diesel for five years without a single issue, and thats running with everything almost full. Never had limp mode, never had it complain in any way. I don't run it full chat because it gives the DSG a hard time and changes become a bit aggressive but thats all.  

 

I run a JB4 on my 245......

 

Oh and anybody that says tuning boxes do not leave evidence is not being completely truthful; in the event of a warranty claim, do not be under any illusion that out of band data can't be seen.......especially when you're looking at a warranty claim on £8K's worth of TSI engine.

 

Edited 18 November, 20187 yr by wardth

11 hours ago, wardth said:

 

Oh and anybody that says tuning boxes do not leave evidence is not being completely truthful; in the event of a warranty claim, do not be under any illusion that out of band data can't be seen.......especially when you're looking at a warranty claim on £8K's worth of TSI engine.

 

Great point, well made, a little short prospective though, the work required to recover the "out of band data" & interrupt it, is quiet extensive & therefore, expensive.

 

Realistically, you gotta need £5k of warranty to get VAG to sign off on that much expense.

 

Let's not forget a JB4 leaves the same "exceeding standard operating parameters" whereas the remap, changes the qsum counter on the ECU so, that's seen at standard service.

 

If you mod your engine for more power, they can tell, if you give them a big reason to dig deep enough, Nuff said ?

JB4 for a petrol and DTUK for diesel are my stock choices.

this is worth reading guys as it explains a lot of stuff  

 

 

 

We are often asked which tuning option is the “ Best setting” and  there simply isn’t a one-fits-all answer to the question.

We want to share as much information prior to adjusting the system so the correct procedure is followed to set up your DTUK tuning system to your preference. If you then decide to ignore our advice and subsequently see an engine light or experience issues due to over adjustment, it gives us a little recourse.

The sticker is on the module as 99% of users don’t read instructions and simply turn the box onto the highest setting and then wonder why they have seen an engine light. This usually results in negative feedback being published on social media and forums. With all of our systems we have an optimised setting; a little analogy we like to use… “If you turn your toaster up too high you will burn your toast”. Now this isn’t the same principle with a vehicle, what you may find is that if you over adjust the system the vehicle will display an engine light as you have been a little greedy with the power and the safety tolerance set by the manufacturer has been reached.

Quite often than not customers contact us saying “Joe Bloggs” is running P2+1 I want to run this setting on my car. Our advice is to ignore anything you may have read online regarding the “best setting”, in fact even if you have 2 identical cars in the household please treat each vehicle as a unique item and don’t simply assume that the setting you’re using in one car, is the best for another. As we’re constantly looking to update software and make improvements if required software versions do vary so where you could be comparing to a friend’s identical car you may different software.

So where do we start? We start off with a little bit of information on how to use the system and making adjustments.

Firstly, the module itself needs power – to make any adjustments to the module the ignition must be in the first position or the vehicles engine running.

Secondly… one of our most common asked questions: The LED lights on the module will FLASH 99% of the time – this means the box is in lock down mode and can’t be adjusted but the flashing lights indicate the Program and fine adjustment that has been selected. Once the box is unlocked by holding the plus and minus buttons down the LED lights will then go solid, this means you can adjust the system. After several seconds of inactivity on the keypad the system will lock automatically. If in doubt at any time please read the instructions provided with the kit or get in touch.

Can’t feel a difference with the box fitted?? – Then please check and make sure you’ve not switched the module to “off” If you have 3 LEDs “RED” “YELLOW and “GREEN” flashing under the P button, then the module is switched off. Yes, we know it sounds crazy, but this is known to of happened so please make sure you only have 1 LED light flashing under the P with the set adjustments, either RED, YELLOW or GREEN on their own or a P light with the specific fine-tuning settings selected and this means that one of the 3 programmes is selected.

 

PUSH Button Control Systems – CRD2+ CRD3+ FSR+ MP-T+ (with or without bluetooth control)
For the majority of our systems there are 3 programs which 99% of the time all show equal Peak BHP and Torque figures, what differs between our 3 programs is how the power is delivered through the RPM range of the vehicle? For anyone unsure this means for example Program 1 may start earlier, 2 later etc… (Please note this is not a specific description of your vehicle so please try the following information to set up your DTUK tuning system). Our advice would be to start with P1, P2, P3 not adjusting the fine tuning… this will allow you to get a feel of the power delivery the program has to offer… after a short drive or even a couple of days of trying each program settle with your preferred. Once you have found your preferred program then adjust the fine tuning. With all of our push button systems we optimise the programs to run on 0/+1. Anything higher may result in an engine management light, but there again may not. It is purely down to sensor tolerances, and in some cases fuel quality and ambient air temps can affect things.

The minus settings – we’ve had a couple of customers who have contacted us and have found that -1 or even -2 have given them even better results than 0 or +1. If you are having issues we would advise customers to try the minus settings as it maybe some bizarre anomaly that can’t be explained as surely – should mean less rather than more?? With mentioning that subject even -3 should and will give you more power than stock. Think of it as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 rather than -3, -2,-1 zero +1, +2, +3.

PDI & PD2 systems
For modules such as our PDI, PD2 systems etc please note there is 4 programs… the same principle applies as above.

Red Power, Green Eco3 & MP2 systems
For systems with a potentiometer (Red, Green ECO3) you have settings 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B,C,D,E,F (1 being the lowest and F the highest) we will send the module out present to the suitable base setting for your application. We recommend to adjust the system up in increments – if you see an engine light reduce the setting down.

Engine Management Light?!
If you do see an engine light, don’t worry this is your engine telling you that you’re being “greedy” so please don’t panic! If the system is turned down the light will either go out straight away, or after a certain number of full ecu power downs. (A “full ECU power down” means starting your vehicle, switching it off, locking it, walking away for around 20-30 minutes).
We are also asked the question “what’s this little black block in the box with the tuning module?” That’s our blanking plug for our systems (please note some vehicle don’t require this – if you’re unsure please refer to the installation manual or get in touch) which reverts the vehicle back to stock leaving the harness in place without needing to remove it entirely if you want the vehicle back to stock easily.

Bluetooth Applications
Legal Notice – Usage of Smartphones Whilst Driving is not allowed in many countries. Please Comply to legislation applicable to your country of residence as we will not be held liable for failure to comply.

If you have purchased a system with Bluetooth capability pleasure ensure you are using the guidance as follows:

1. Location of the module is key
2. The keypad of the module must be facing towards the driver or in some cases upwards (if the keypad is facing away from the driver the Bluetooth signal cannot travel out of the module.
3. For the strongest and constant connection we advise using a mobile phone mount on the dashboard or air vent (Please comply with local legislation).

All we want is for customers to be able to enjoy our product, but to also realise that their car is as unique as them, and in essence some trial and error is required to set up the system to best suit your car, and more importantly your driving style.

 

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/

Edited 21 November, 20187 yr by Andrew@DTUK

I'm going to chip in here on this, even though it's the Mk3 Octy section.

 

I had a Racechip Pro 2 on my Superb 280 Sportline

 

I took it to Will at Performance torque a few weeks ago, and we ran it on the dyno, with the Tuning box blank bypass plug fitted, a fraction over 280, with the Racechip Pro 2 fitted, 299Bhp.

 

An hour later and a custom map applied, racechip pro 2 removed, 377Bhp and 408llbs/ft Torque.

 

I'm not knocking tuning boxes at all, but I don't think they can ever compare, as my figures testify, to a proper remap. My car is now reasonably swift, for a barge 

3 hours ago, fluffmeister said:

I'm going to chip in here on this, even though it's the Mk3 Octy section.

 

I had a Racechip Pro 2 on my Superb 280 Sportline

 

I took it to Will at Performance torque a few weeks ago, and we ran it on the dyno, with the Tuning box blank bypass plug fitted, a fraction over 280, with the Racechip Pro 2 fitted, 299Bhp.

 

An hour later and a custom map applied, racechip pro 2 removed, 377Bhp and 408llbs/ft Torque.

 

I'm not knocking tuning boxes at all, but I don't think they can ever compare, as my figures testify, to a proper remap. My car is now reasonably swift, for a barge 

 

racechip are pants though. its unfair to compare to a DTUK box.

16 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

racechip are pants though. its unfair to compare to a DTUK box.

 

I wasn't, and isn't the original thread title referring to RaceChip?

 

I've had a DTUK on my previous Octavia vRS Mk3 TDeious and was happy with that, and in fact I have a DTUK pedal box on my Superb.

I can't speak for Racechip but I've had a JB4 for a couple of months now, having had a couple of remapped cars in the past I'm really happy with the way it performs. 

JB4 is a much more advanced bit of kit than either of them. Only ever heard good things about them. 

Well I'm thinking to try this RaceChip GTX Black, for my skoda RS 2.0 184hp TDI. I really like the warranty cover they offer(8000£ afaik) if something happens to the engine. Yes the HP increase is lower than with DTUK, but I have a feeling that with those 235HP you get with DTUK the engine is running on the edge, thus those limp modes here and there. Yes I understand ppl are doing 1+3 or 2+3 to max it out and that may cause it but still......its on the edge I guess.

On the other hand I wonder, DTUK offers 3-channel box, but the one from RaceChip is just 2-channel afaik(cam plug is not there) so basically dtuk's CRDT. I'm not sure if this can have any impact on anything?

Topcashback and quidco have 13.13% cashback on RaceChip.
Then Racechip has free delivery, DTUK charges like 8£.
There's no discount coupons for RaceChip afaik, however there are some for DTUK(50£ off for example). Then there's 5% extra discount on DTUK.

So for my car, if I went with DTUK , CRD-3+ and the pedal box plus, both with bluetooth control it would cost me 616£. (postage costs 8£,  5% off, 50£ discount code)
If I went with RaceChip , GTS Black and the pedalbox XLR, both with bluetooth control, it would cost me 624£. (postage costs 0£, 13.13% cashback)

Having said all that, the price is ....comparable, 8£ difference, which is nothing really. You get less power(afaik) with Racechip, but "more stable" power (no limp modes ?) + you are covered up to 8k £ if something happens to your engine, but again, less power and afaik the RC system is 2-channel only(afaik). Anyone knows what kind of impact/feeling/difference can it make that RC is 2-way only ? Like...will you really feel that CAM sensor is not being altered?

+ I know what car I want the next, and for that car RaceChip GTX Black comes as 3-channel system, and provides 8HP more over the DTUK, and for like 110£ they can reprogram the current one to fit the other car.

That is my observation and thougths.

Anyone?


 

Edited 26 January, 20197 yr by fat4l

6 hours ago, fat4l said:

Well I'm thinking to try this RaceChip GTX Black, for my skoda RS 2.0 184hp TDI. I really like the warranty cover they offer(8000£ afaik) if something happens to the engine. Yes the HP increase is lower than with DTUK, but I have a feeling that with those 235HP you get with DTUK the engine is running on the edge, thus those limp modes here and there. Yes I understand ppl are doing 1+3 or 2+3 to max it out and that may cause it but still......its on the edge I guess.

On the other hand I wonder, DTUK offers 3-channel box, but the one from RaceChip is just 2-channel afaik(cam plug is not there) so basically dtuk's CRDT. I'm not sure if this can have any impact on anything?

Topcashback and quidco have 13.13% cashback on RaceChip.
Then Racechip has free delivery, DTUK charges like 8£.
There's no discount coupons for RaceChip afaik, however there are some for DTUK(50£ off for example). Then there's 5% extra discount on DTUK.

So for my car, if I went with DTUK , CRD-3+ and the pedal box plus, both with bluetooth control it would cost me 616£. (postage costs 8£,  5% off, 50£ discount code)
If I went with RaceChip , GTS Black and the pedalbox XLR, both with bluetooth control, it would cost me 624£. (postage costs 0£, 13.13% cashback)

Having said all that, the price is ....comparable, 8£ difference, which is nothing really. You get less power(afaik) with Racechip, but "more stable" power (no limp modes ?) + you are covered up to 8k £ if something happens to your engine, but again, less power and afaik the RC system is 2-channel only(afaik). Anyone knows what kind of impact/feeling/difference can it make that RC is 2-way only ? Like...will you really feel that CAM sensor is not being altered?

+ I know what car I want the next, and for that car RaceChip GTX Black comes as 3-channel system, and provides 8HP more over the DTUK, and for like 110£ they can reprogram the current one to fit the other car.

That is my observation and thougths.

Anyone?


 

 

Annoyingly, I ordered the GTS Black for my 1.0 TSI and a few weeks later, it was £90+ cheaper in the Black Friday sales.

 

That all being said, it's proving to be great and although I've only done 600 miles in the car so far, it's noticeable, bringing the car back to what I was used to driving when I had the 1.4 TSI (150)

 

Depends on what you're expecting to be honest. I know the forums tend to side with DTUK because they have a proven track record of helping you out. 

 

The cost vs result seemed to be the seller for me. DTUK would provide less ft/lb and bhp but charging me more for the privilege. 

 

The good thing with Race Chip is you have 30 days to return if you need to, money back guarantee. 

Well, also another question is....

Has anyone experienced a TB1/TD1 flag with either DTUK or Racechip module ?
(not even sure if the rumors about TB1 flag(suspected use of Tuning Box) are real)

 

On 28/11/2018 at 20:52, JohnnyType2 said:

 

racechip are pants though. its unfair to compare to a DTUK box.

 

Why?

 

1 hour ago, Excision said:

 

Why?

 

 

Im only going from my experience that the race chip unit i had was lumpy and didnt produce anywhere near the same increases as the DTUK box which i found much smoother to drive, this is anecdotal of course, just my own observations. DTUK are UK based as well and the level of support is far superior. support local! and you can Andy on this forum as well,

Just now, JohnnyType2 said:

 

Im only going from my experience that the race chip unit i had was lumpy and didnt produce anywhere near the same increases as the DTUK box which i found much smoother to drive, this is anecdotal of course, just my own observations. DTUK are UK based as well and the level of support is far superior. support local! and you can Andy on this forum as well,

 

burger tune seem to be the go to for petrol vRS though