One more thing. The most effective solution would be to tin all tracks too. The copper tracks are so thin that they develop micro-cracks visible under high magnification only. They are responsible for all those intermittent faults so hard to diagnose. In other words, the PCB might look well, yet under the slightest vibration continuity is lost.

35 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

One more thing. The most effective solution would be to tin all tracks too. The copper tracks are so thin that they develop micro-cracks visible under high magnification only. They are responsible for all those intermittent faults so hard to diagnose. In other words, the PCB might look well, yet under the slightest vibration continuity is lost.

yes but you need to remove green solder mask first

5 hours ago, RicardoM said:

One more thing. The most effective solution would be to tin all tracks too. The copper tracks are so thin that they develop micro-cracks visible under high magnification only. They are responsible for all those intermittent faults so hard to diagnose. In other words, the PCB might look well, yet under the slightest vibration continuity is lost.

I renewed my solders.

Tried with 12v 2a adapter no problem.(of course only clock and lights)

As you said, we will look at what will happen with the vibrations in the vehicle.

I hope the "PCB" is ok.

Otherwise it will be a much more difficult process. 😊

Edited 26 April, 20206 yr by mturgut

13 minutes ago, mturgut said:

As you said, we will look at what will happen with the vibrations in the vehicle.

You can test the board by tapping it in various places before installing it back in the dashboard. Of course, while the power supply is connected.

10 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

You can test the board by tapping it in various places before installing it back in the dashboard. Of course, while the power supply is connected.

Good advice,

I will try tomorrow thanks

Hello there,
What is the green piece found here?

one side is broken

I soldered again

That is a power resistor. I can't remember now what is its role but I will tell you exactly later today.

No problem after 1 hour of usage.

I hope it won't be a problem anymore

Thanks a lot for your help 😍

 

9 hours ago, RicardoM said:

That is a power resistor. I can't remember now what is its role but I will tell you exactly later today.

It is a 82 Ohms / 2 Watt resistor. Its purpose is to protect the charging alert lamp when there is a fault of the alternator regulator and the voltage goes high.

Hello again,

I want to renew the (-) cable of the car battery,

but one cable has two different ports (indicated by red and green shapes)

and I can't find the (L) shaped terminal marked in red,

Maybe if I pull two separate wires from the place marked blue instead, will it do the same job?

 

is there someone who can offer ideas?

the terminal in red is THE MAIN chassis groung  you can run a beefy cable from the battery to there and you would be good to go

18 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

the terminal in red is THE MAIN chassis groung  you can run a beefy cable from the battery to there and you would be good to go

I will try your advice,

and in turn I'll rebuild all the cables.

I replaced the old one with a 25mm two-piece cable.

 

The temperature gauge has been working properly since I changed the cable,

It looked different before, more than it should be,

When I turned on the lights, the temperature indicator was rising while the radiator or heater fan was running.

Now everything works fine

6 minutes ago, mturgut said:

The temperature gauge has been working properly since I changed the cable,

It looked different before, more than it should be,

When I turned on the lights, the temperature indicator was rising while the radiator or heater fan was running.

Now everything works fine

you see proper grounding is a reallyyyy big deal