Repairs worthwhile? Advice gratefully appreciated :)

[Naulochus]

I have a 2002 Skoda Fabia which just failed its MOT.  I've had lots of advice to just get a new car - but I really like my Fabia and want to keep it if I practically can.  I was wondering if anyone would be willing to give some advice on what they would do?  

 

It's a Fabia Classic (68 BHP)  1397cc petrol manual.  The mileage is 112,656.  

 

The MOT fails are as follows:

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
• Offside Rear Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
• Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))
• Exhaust system insecure (6.1.2 (a))
• Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (6.1.2 (a))
• Offside Front Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (3.5 (a))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Rear exhaust heat shield insecure
• Power steering pipe/hose slightly corroded (2.1.5 (g) (i))
• Offside Front wing corroded
• Offside Front Anti-roll bar pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
• Nearside Front Wheel bearing slightly noisy (5.1.3 (b) (i))
• Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))

 

 

[sepulchrave]

If the catalyst is no good then it's probably not worth doing, the rest is simple and cheap to fix.

 

Address the advisories next year, you're looking for another year of cheap motoring.

[Breezy_Pete]

Look for a seized handbrake lever pivot, or broken cable, in the offside rear drum brake.

Ask where the major exhaust leak is. If it's upstream of any lambda sensors it may explain the lambda reading fail.

Replace the washer nozzle.

[Tech1e]

What’s your location?

[Naulochus]

Thanks for replying

 

I think the lambda reading thing has come up before.  They said they're not too worried about that.  The handbrake thing tends to come up consistently too.

 

 I think their argument is that the advisories are risky to drive with and are going to fail soon - which would mean more money, so they think just move on.  I've been quoted about 400 for the 'repair immediately' ones and told that the bulk of the cost was coming from the parts.  I talked to someone else who said that they could do the advisories for me much more cheaply.  

 

I'm based in Scotland.

 

I just feel that the car feels like it runs fine.  It always starts.  It shakes a bit towards 70 - but I'm not on the mway too much.  It drove perfectly during all the snow we had in the Beast from the East.  I've driven more modern cars that I liked much less.

[sepulchrave]

Just fix what needs done to pass the MOT for another year, £400 is a bit strong for what I can see unless the catalyst is no bueno.

[Doily]

Regarding the lambda reading : Mine failed this year because of lambda reading and an exhaust leak downstream of sensor (hole in back box). Fitting a new back box fixed the reading.

[Naulochus]

Very many thanks to all.  I didn't want to let my heart rule my head - but from what you've all said my car isn't a lost cause just yet.   I'll contact the garage and ask if the catalyst is ok or not, and likely make the call based on that.

 

 

[Breezy_Pete]

They probably won't be able to tell if the cat is OK or not without first fixing the exhaust leak.

[stevobeavo]

I've seen quite a few cars fail the fast idle test due to exhaust leaks. 

 

If there is some water coming out the washer Then it might simply be that the end of the nozzle has pushed out and will need pushing back in. Mine failed the MOT when I had it years ago because of this. 

[KenONeill]

Well, depending on the size and location of the leak, a "Gun Gum" exhaust bandage might fix that, and, as others, the emissions too, for about £5.

[bmbmdmb]

The washer nozzles are under tenner from dealer. Just pop out without anything else to remove on my fab. Mine had limescale. I use concentrate the all year round. In winter the lower freezing point of concentrate is useful. In summer the washer fluid is seldom used.

[VWD]

I know not if your model has rear drums. But if it has, I'd suspect the inoperative side is due to a seized rivet/sticking rivet joint  . Poor efficiency on rear drums is most likely due to worn pads. New rear shoes is an easy fix, BUT find out how to stop the cylinders popping out when the tension is removed and causing air in system problems ( unless you also want to change fluid at same time and from posts on here a Gunsen Ezie bleed is needed).  . I'd suspect that draining the vacuum might go some way toward this.

Anti roll bar ( AKA drop links) is another easy fix, if tension is left on the suspension to stop the shaft rotating.  Never forget that some advisories are just that -advisories ( AKA local garages bread and butter jobs and also ( IMHO,i SUSPECT) to keep the MOT inspector happy.

Washer fluid- there was a post on here years ago about the need to use at least 50% screen wash else the pipes tend to pop at the joints. I'm a lot further south, but I find that down here 50% in summer and 100% screnwash in winter works OK.Add to that a dollop of cheap washing up liquid to combat oil throw up ( from buses) and it's OK.Depending on where you are in Gods Country, you might ned to look at lower freezing concentrations. For poor flow nozzles I first tried a pin, but I found that telecom wire works better, so it might be worth asking local BT bloke for a bit of scrap cable.

[TMB]

2 minutes ago, VWD said:

For poor flow nozzles I first tried a pin, but I found that telecom wire works better, so it might be worth asking local BT bloke for a bit of scrap cable.

 

Pulling a strand out of a wire brush also works.

[VWD]

Lee- I've always had telcoms cable around so it is my first port of call. One problem can be caused by folk who overdo the quality or quantity of washing up liquid and the outlets get blocked by gunge from dried up washing up liquid.