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Electric windows gone dead


paddyjoe

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Thanks Munfred for kindly letting me test the 6Y2959802 motor so I know where i stand

I am also  curious about the 3 connector plugs motor, as these are way more common,

dont know if anyone tried it but the 6Y2 part has only 2, one bigger connector and one smaller one ? Perhaps which feeds the passenger side.


I think most earlier cars/ other variants may have 3 connectors with the 6Q2 part,
I inadvertantly went to visit another earlier car with this and had the 3 plugs motor, bigger one went in but the smaller seemed to be obstructed by part of the smaller connecors block pattern,
but I quickly and briefly noted this wasnt the pins itself which looked identical ?


The 3rd connector block looks like it has same pattern as the other smaller one but for 2 more blocks of connections if that makes sense),
I would hazard a guess this is extra connections for rear windows but they deemed this unnecessary on later vrs motors as they don't have rear electrics anyway and revised accordingly ?
My inquisitive side would love to find this out :D They are way more common part too

Edited by vRSAnt
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One of the three connectors goes to electric door mirrors if fitted, no?

 

You can see the wire here....

 

6667776g.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I have electric door mirrors on mine too obviously but it doesnt come from there on the window motor at all.....ok so its totally different then. I was just interested, so probably no chance you could retro the motor on these newer ones then

( I just wondered as they actually have tons of those about as well as not only being cheaper). There is literally not even one for sale in UK on ebay at the moment.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not sure if this is relevant here, but may help someone. My 07 Fabia Bohemia 16V has power windows at the front only. After a recent battery disconnection, they stopped working. Checked the fuses, all intact (though they bear little relation to the handbook diagram). Then read in handbook about 'convenient opening reset' which is necessary after battery disconnection. Not sure if my car has this feature, but tried it anyway (insert key in door, turn to locked, remove and repeat , hold for 3 seconds) but no joy. Looked up this forum and found an identical problem (can't seem to find the page: 'procedure: electric window reset') with two solutions. First is to turn engine on then raise both driver's door switches at once and hold for five seconds. That didn't work. Next sounded a bit strange: disconnect battery, then  'Before you reconnect you need to switch ignition on, close all the doors. THEN reconnect the battery, while the ignition lights are on OPEN all your windows, close all your DOORS then hold key in locked position till all windows are closed, release key then HOLD key in locked position for 3 seconds.  Everything should now fully operational.'  I was loth to try this, but it occurred to me that since the operation clearly needed two keys (one for ignition, one for door) perhaps that was the secret. So I turned on the ignition with one key and with the other went through the 'convenient opening reset', i.e. turned it to locked, removed, turned to locked again and held for 3 seconds. I then turned it to open to see if the windows would open (they didn't, but then I'm not sure if my car actually has the 'convenient opening' feature). 

 

HOWEVER, when I operated the window switches they worked OK and all was well.

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Update on Skoda Fabia windows solution: after the solution outlined above (one key in ignition, turn on, then put other key in door, turn to lock, remove, repeat & hold) the windows worked again. Then they didn't (next morning) Then they did (later that day). This erratic behaviour has been repeated since  - no response at all, then work ok later. Baffling.

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  • 7 months later...
  • 5 months later...

2nd hand unit here too. Proper 8Y2959802 job although 2 years older than faulty one, manufactured in 2005 not 2007. Fingers crossed.

All I needed to do was hold the key in unlock position and lock position to get the one-touch thing to work in driver's door.

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1 hour ago, TMB said:

Thanks for your helpful input Mr. Meldrew.

 

Gotta keep that pointless post count up, been learning from e-roottoot, pretty soon I'm gonna graduate to just repeating what other posters have already said or correcting irrelevant spelling mistakes and typos.

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  • 3 weeks later...

this may be defeatist , but I am considering changing my electric windows to a manually operating system ; have an intermittent with the windows and the effort of continually checking etc has worn me down. Does anyone have experience of doing this , alternatively I may buy a banger with working windows . 

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2 hours ago, bly54the said:

this may be defeatist , but I am considering changing my electric windows to a manually operating system ; have an intermittent with the windows and the effort of continually checking etc has worn me down. Does anyone have experience of doing this , alternatively I may buy a banger with working windows . 

 

The door cards, inner metal panels and regulators are different....

 

 

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I read on here somewhere that you could fix the problem by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. 

So ever sceptical I tried that, low and behold the windows that haven't worked all winter sprang into life!

The next morning they didn't work again but when it warmed up in the afternoon they came back to life, and have been working ever since!

 

Well worth trying before you start stripping the doors out!

 

So many thanks to whoever posted it up, just can't find the OP anywhere?  

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thank you to all who replied. I have considered most of the options , putting a live direct to motor with a rocker switch and a small circuit to allow up/down operation , removing all existing electro mechanicals and replacing with a winder system , buying a scrapper of same colour and changing doors or just driving it the way it is . It has had all brakes and calipers wheel bearings etc renewed and still drives beautifully so I am loath to part with it for a car in unknown condition , so It look s like my last option will have to do pro tempore . This problem is the Rubic"s cube of vag motors .

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On 03/04/2021 at 11:31, bly54the said:

thank you to all who replied. I have considered most of the options , putting a live direct to motor with a rocker switch and a small circuit to allow up/down operation , removing all existing electro mechanicals and replacing with a winder system , buying a scrapper of same colour and changing doors or just driving it the way it is . It has had all brakes and calipers wheel bearings etc renewed and still drives beautifully so I am loath to part with it for a car in unknown condition , so It look s like my last option will have to do pro tempore . This problem is the Rubic"s cube of vag motors .

Solution 

 

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  • 2 months later...

I had saved this topic because both my windows had given up the ghost around January. I've barely used the car since but nearly died yesterday with the heat so today was the day to go into attack mode..    

Pleased to report that simply swapping the driver's complete motor from my 2006 donor car has cured the problem.

During one of several tea breaks, I came across this video on a 2007 polo where the chap swaps out 2 items from the motors circuit  board and fixes his windows. He names the part numbers of items, which is double Dutch to me (no circuit boards when I started off with my 100E pop) but hopefully will be of help to some on the forum after a trip to Maplins or the like.

 

 

Apologies if my advancing age means I'm barking up the wrong tree.

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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

No comment on your age related amnesia but Maplins went bust a while ago...

They've closed the high street shops, but still exist as an e-tailer.

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