Just now, DieselMonte said:

After the heartache doing these ones?

I'll pass. This should have been a piece of **** if the bolts didn't break.

I canny blame you. I don't want to be doing mine either...

 

Plan is to just leave it with the mechanic and say "fix this" and run away.

Power washed all the muck off, there was a lot.

Wishbones were quite rusty underneath it all, suppose they've been covered in mud for 5 years.

These brackets too.

Sandblasting was messy but did a good job at removing some of the rust.

 

Coated stuff in rust remover gel, other stuff is sitting in vinegar overnight.

Seems a bit stupid making all of this look nice and shiny considering how dirty it is underneath. But I'm going to do it anyway.

More done today:

Front Wishbones came out far too easy. When I did the Mk2 it was much harder to push them out. 

Only doing them again because I'm so far into this.

Wishbones, Arb and subframe are ground back and soaking in Kurust. Bolt for the dogbone bush is stripped so I spent a while trying and failing to get that off. Don't actually "need" to remove the dogbone, but it feels very soft so I want to remove it and do a job on it.

Video related:

Got the steering rack bush off but had to cut the nut off to do so. So another nut and bolt I need to get. 

Had a go at getting an old welder working to help get the broken bolts out, but couldn't get it going. Probably just didn't have it grounded properly.

 

As an aside, I'm amazed at how light these subframes are. I'd imagine someone skilled at welding could make some bracing to stiffen it up a bit. I'd say it'd be a worthwhile job to do on one of these. Maybe not for this car though, I'm really just trying to refresh what I can and have it as a solid roadworthy second car. 

 

Bits Coated in hammerite now:

Console with the broken bolt is officially ruined so need to find another.

Really turned into a pig of a job this.

The other console though was wire wheeled back and primed for paint 

Took a long trip this evening to grab some stuff for this.

Originally was just going to get the subframe but when I saw these doorcards I had to have them.

In good shape but one of the handles is gone, so I'll try paint mine black to match. Car I got them off has quite a few goodies still on it and I am very tempted to get more stuff from it. I has black lower trims on the inside in nice shape and both wings on it are basically perfect. 

I've spent quite a bit on both these cars this month otherwise I would have bought all. 

I bought the whole subframe as it proved as cheap to buy the whole lot than just the console. I'll sell what I don't use and get some money back hopefully.

 

Also have the one good console fully painted up. Rest of its ready to be bushed next day as the paint will be well dry by now.

 

Nice 'haul' there. Looks to be the same door cards I've got as well.

10 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

Nice 'haul' there. Looks to be the same door cards I've got as well.

They'll match the seats well

Definitely considering making a black headliner after seeing Stewarts one.

2 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

They'll match the seats well

Definitely considering making a black headliner after seeing Stewarts one.

Go for the black headliner too.

I'd like to do the same but I've just bought the sunglasses holder from a Mk4 Golf Anniversary Edition. Could spray it, but I'll stick with the light coloured headrest for now.

 

This car is going to look absolutely brilliant when you're done. Definitely won't be showing it's miles, that's for sure!

19 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

Go for the black headliner too.

I'd like to do the same but I've just bought the sunglasses holder from a Mk4 Golf Anniversary Edition. Could spray it, but I'll stick with the light coloured headrest for now.

 

This car is going to look absolutely brilliant when you're done. Definitely won't be showing it's miles, that's for sure!

It'll be about 7 different colours before it gets paint eventually. 

I'm able to do most of the work myself but I'll most likely drop it off to my mechanic to have the rear drums done "proper" and basically look over it to make sure it has a fighting chance of passing NCT. I admit this is still a ways off.

I've got 2 years no claims this month, and no penalty points so it shouldn't be a big ask to get some insurance on this when it's time to. 

I've been meaning to write out a proper list of what needs doing. Hopefully it's not 4 pages long.

8 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

It'll be about 7 different colours before it gets paint eventually. 

 

DieselMonte and the Amazing Technicolour Fab Comfort?

 

8 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

I'm able to do most of the work myself but I'll most likely drop it off to my mechanic to have the rear drums done "proper" and basically look over it to make sure it has a fighting chance of passing NCT. I admit this is still a ways off.

I've got 2 years no claims this month, and no penalty points so it shouldn't be a big ask to get some insurance on this when it's time to. 

 

Definitely a good spare car once NCT'd etc. I've got a pair of facelift rear lights if you'd be interested in them, by the way.  Dunno how well postage would work though given political events that I shan't mention etc.

 

8 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

I've been meaning to write out a proper list of what needs doing. Hopefully it's not 4 pages long.

 

I've got one of these lists too, thankfully just fairly short. 

 

 

Just as a tip, don't get too picky about what you're repairing. The bare minimum, then iron out the finer things later.

Edited 25 May, 20224 yr by AnnoyingPentium

Fair bit done this evening

Stripped new subframe to get the console

Funny enough, same as the subframe on mine the passengers side console came out like butter, and the drivers side one was very difficult to remove, but it did come out without busting the bolt.

Didnt go any further with that tonight. 

Moved onto removing the dogbone from my subframe, the bolt was rung so I ended up cutting and drilling the nut on the top of the subframe to remove the bolt that way. Happily the subframe I bought came with the same bolt.

Bit of damage but it won't be seen, and has been painted over so won't rust.

Found a nut to use instead. Does mean I'll have to drop the subframe if it needs changed in the future but it'll do.

 

I think I could have used the petrol subframe even though its a different shape, I figured they were different but I didnt need it anyhow. It's a fair bit rougher looking  than mine , the Wishbones were the same. I'll throw them up cheap somewhere, hopefully they'll be of use to someone else 

Top of it was hammerited to keep it from rusting. Inner bits were done after the pic was taken.

Also fitted the nice steering rack bush

And tiger sealed a gearbox mount and the dogbone bush 

Used the diesel dogbone as a base, the petrol one felt far softer in comparison to the already soft diesel one even though they look identical to me.

 

Pretty much everything done to this point. Next day the subframe should be going back in and atleast the passengers side wishbone assembly as it is ready to go. All of the stuff I hammerited has so far come out great. A lot nicer than rusty metal.

 

Be super-careful with your nut/bolt arrangement for the subframe end of the dogbone mount. The bit of bolt that comes through the captive/welded original nut comes very close to the steering rack tube.

Steering racks are sometimes wrecked while doing gearbox/clutch work by people mixing up the bolts and putting a 65mm (gearbox to engine) one back in there instead of the 61mm long  original. 

Those extra 4mm are enough to dent the rack tube when the bolt is tightened, destroying the rack.

What is the deal with the Tiger stuff?

 

Looks like some sort of Sikaflex PU type adhesive but why?

3 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Be super-careful with your nut/bolt arrangement for the subframe end of the dogbone mount. The bit of bolt that comes through the captive/welded original nut comes very close to the steering rack tube.

Steering racks are sometimes wrecked while doing gearbox/clutch work by people mixing up the bolts and putting a 65mm (gearbox to engine) one back in there instead of the 61mm long  original. 

Those extra 4mm are enough to dent the rack tube when the bolt is tightened, destroying the rack.

I've heard about that. What I've done is cut down the nut welded on the top of the subframe to hopefully let me push the new nut down enough to not interfere with the rack.

 

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

What is the deal with the Tiger stuff?

 

Looks like some sort of Sikaflex PU type adhesive but why?

Poor man's way of firming up old mounts.  Not as firm as a proper polybush. Did the engine and gearbox mount of the Monte a while ago and they're still nice and tight.

OK I get it, I thought you had done that to new bushes.

 

I would never call a polybush a "proper" bush, in a stroke they remove all the advantages of rubber to metal bonded bushes and took vehicle technology back more than 100 years or whenever the first grease nipple or lubricator appeared on  suspension pivot joints.

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

OK I get it, I thought you had done that to new bushes.

 

I would never call a polybush a "proper" bush, in a stroke they remove all the advantages of rubber to metal bonded bushes and took vehicle technology back more than 100 years or whenever the first grease nipple or lubricator appeared on  suspension pivot joints.

I don't mind a bit of extra maintenence to be honest, I feel the benefits of a tighter feeling car are worth it. Honestly my montes fully polybushed as well as being on coilovers and dare I say in its case its more comfortable now than when I got it. I've no regrets putting them in it.

 

This car I only intended on doing the console bush but the wishbone bushes were that bad (and I had the bushes on hand) that I chose to change them.

In my hand the psb bushes still have enough "squish" in them that I think they won't make the suspension overly harsh.

 

And those mounts I did are used mounts, I don't want to be spending money on new mounts when I have spares there that I can fill with tigerseal that I already have and put the money I've saved elsewhere. Again I've done it to the Monte and it's fine, bit firm at first but after a few days they softened up to feel just right and have been fine since.

 

Had a few hours this evening so did what I could.

Tigerseal mounts have cured Well, fitted the dogbone into the subframe now instead of in the car due to the "unique" way I need to bolt it in.

Before:

And after, was really putting my weight into this too:

Not terribly scientific, but hopefully will be a nice reference for someone in the future. Dogbones a little rough looking, probably slather it in hammerite when it's on the car.

I ended up cutting a nut down to be 110% sure that it won't contact the steering rack. It looks sketchy, but threaded in and tightened up fine. Used liberal amounts of loctite just to have some extra insurance. I think it'll be fine.

Fitted the one console and wishbone as the other console is being painted.

The way these console bushes work is that the black piece spins in the red piece, felt really nice when I was moving the wishbone up and down on the bench. 

Oh, also hung the ARB in situ.

Bit of a stark contrast I think.

The snapped bolt in the steering rack is proving a proper pain to remove, extractor bits won't touch it and it's eating my drill bits even using wd40. Not much left of it but still.

 

Surely that is not the direction that the dogbone bush is loaded?

 

Torque reaction would be a fore and aft motion which is where the bush is strongest and the voids allow for relatively free up & down movement for when the vehicle has vertical accelerations to reduce NVH.

 

However as many have stated there is less engine movement without any corresponding increase in vibration or harshness then its all good, it's certainly something that I will consider.

Easiest way for me to get force on it and show that the tigerseal has done "something" to the old mount. Hence me stating in my post that it was not terribly scientific.

Real test will be when the cars moving under its own steam again. On and off throttle there was a lot of movement from the engine fore and aft as you'd say. 

I intend on fitting the gearbox mount also before giving it a run.

I understand, it certainly has done something and it will have added some stiffness in the fore and aft direction, I hope it hasn't added too much stifness where it is undesirable, but as you have said, its an old knackered mounting so nothing to lose and everything to gain, I will definitely consider doing the same next time I have the sumpshield off or if I have to do suspension bushes (I have a creak and groan).

6 hours ago, J.R. said:

 will definitely consider doing the same next time I have the sumpshield off or if I have to do suspension bushes (I have a creak and groan).

I had honestly thought about shoving tiger seal into the consoles and calling it a day, at one point. But since it worked out quite cheap for me to buy a whole kit of bushes and split them between the two cars, that's what I did.  

 

Finally got that bolt out.

Went and bought a load of new bits, and with them it came out far easier.

Messy job though

Still threads in to that, for some reason.

It will be getting a nut on top to catch some more threads, and of course copius amounts of loctite.

 

Cleaned up the underside as much as I could. Pressure washer will take care of the rest.

 

Subframe is fully assembled ready to go in. Had to touch up a few spots so didn't put it in tonight, as the paint was still wet in spots.

And finally have an aerial.

Very happy this evening, its finally back on its wheels.

Subframe went in, few scratches in the paint but they can be done again.

Used up a bottle of loctite fitting this. No harm in it.

Had a lot of trouble getting the arb bushes to thread through, but got there in the end.

Before:

After:

In this photo it does look a bit wonky in the car, it's not actually IRL.

Back on its wheels for the first time in a few weeks.

Not driven it yet as I want to do the gearbox mount before that.

But it is back on its wheels and nothings fallen off so far, everything feels good but of course I'll only know for sure when I get it out for a drive.

I don't have power steering so I should really notice any difference in steering feel. Steering rack bush I think will help too. 

For the front suspension, all it seems to be needing now is ball joints and track rods. 

Had to re sorn it today too, reminded me that the NCT expiry on this was the 21st of this month, 2016. Seems a bit mad that's almost 6 years ago.

Had it running today to jump-start a few cars, so ended up taking it for a few runs.

First thing I have to say is the tigersealed mount was very firm on start up, but softened up a lot in the hour or so It was running, and I know from experience it'll settle down a lot more just by driving it. Above idle, no extra vibrations.

Changing gears has so far proven to be massively improved, absolutely fantastic now!

As for the polybushes, I've not noticed any extra roughness from them while driving. It just feels a lot fresher now than it was before. Very satisfied that all of that effort was worth it.

Car drives fairly straight too. Alignment obviously will need checked over and adjusted, but It's perfectly driveable like this.

Did a bolt check when I was done, and that was all fine. 

Didn't fit the gearbox mount nor adjust the cables so I can only imagine the gear changes will be even better when all that's done. 

More work to be done of course. Hopefully I won't need to deal with any more broken bolts ever again.

Just gonna leave this here

 

 

Edited 6 June, 20224 yr by DieselMonte

Since I got this car, the gearstick would never centre. So while I have access to change the gearbox mount, I said I'd strip down the shifter on the top of the gearbox for a clean and regrease.

 

Cleaned up any pivot points with fine steel wool, then a thick coating of copper slip.

Cleaned up a bit around that side of the engine bay.

Back together, that part anyway.

And it's made a big difference, the gearstick now does centre itself, haven't properly aligned the gear linkages yet but even still, feels much nicer now. 

Wish I took a before, but too late now.

Heres the after.

For a free fix, and a straightforward one at that I'm very happy with the outcome. If you're in that far, if you were adjusting the gear cables or what have you then I say its definitely worth going the extra step and cleaning and regreasing everything.

 

Aside from that I have the passengers headlight out trying to fix a broken tab on it.

 

Also still need to do the gearbox mount but it's all apart ready to do straight away next day, so won't take long.