11 minutes ago, Madvlad65 said:

Talking about oil I decided to go for a blast down the A1 shake off a few cobwebs and noticed the oil temperature went up to 91c and was wondering if there is a normal working temp

It should settle out around the same as the coolant temperature setpoint, which is usually 90 *C on VAG cars. It can go a bit above this depending on weather and load, so anywhere from 90 to 105 is to be expected in normal driving once the engine is warmed up.

@Madvlad65

That is exactly what 'normal ' is, 

but it must not have been that warm outside or you were not nipping on that much.

 

It can easily go up into the 100-110 or higher.  A good sign is when it drops again down to around the 90*oC as you slow down.

 

I find that 5w 40 FS does that better than 5w 30 FS III,  and the 5w 40 FS can run a couple of degrees lower than the Long Life oil, 

and the temp drops quicker once you are easing off the throttle.

 

*** Worth remembering that the 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136kw Twincharger does run a bit different from other VW Group engines.

They are fussy about plugs, are recommended to use Super Unleaded but do run on 95 ron, and the oil is important 

and VW got that all wrong. 

Even the 3.6 litre capacity is a bit of a balls up and they arr happier with 3.9-4 litres. 

Especially with 180ps or more and some might run the car with less than the capacity, 

and they can be 1.5 litres low and no Low Oil warning light, maybe Low Oil Pressure comes on before the Low oil.

 

Crap dipsticks as well.

 

Less oil in maybe after a service, or as it drops in cars doing short jouneys,

being worked harder as there is less, and taking longer to cool. All issues with Twinchargers.

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Booked it in for a service anyway at my nearby VAG specialist. Goes in on Tuesday. Tire light came on on the drive home. So will check them when its cooled

You need to set the tyre pressures then reset the TPMS, button beside handbrake, ignition on and engine not on.

 

Have fun.

New Denso Spark Plugs and i would get VW502 so 5w 40 FS.  Not Long Life oil.

The coolant looked a little on the low side. Any particular brand I should look at?

47 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

@Madvlad65

That is exactly what 'normal ' is, 

but it must not have been that warm outside or you were not nipping on that much.

 

It can easily go up into the 100-110 or higher.  A good sign is when it drops again down to around the 90*oC as you slow down.

 

I find that 5w 40 FS does that better than 5w 30 FS III,  and the 5w 40 FS can run a couple of degrees lower than the Long Life oil, 

and the temp drops quicker once you are easing off the throttle.

 

*** Worth remembering that the 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136kw Twincharger does run a bit different from other VW Group engines.

They are fussy about plugs, are recommended to use Super Unleaded but do run on 95 ron, and the oil is important 

and VW got that all wrong. 

Even the 3.6 litre capacity is a bit of a balls up and they arr happier with 3.9-4 litres. 

Especially with 180ps or more and some might run the car with less than the capacity, 

and they can be 1.5 litres low and no Low Oil warning light, maybe Low Oil Pressure comes on before the Low oil.

 

Crap dipsticks as well.

 

Less oil in maybe after a service, or as it drops in cars doing short jouneys,

being worked harder as there is less, and taking longer to cool. All issues with Twinchargers.

24degrees outside temperature and 100mph(that's nipping on) for me anyway 😀 checking the oil after 10 min cool down dip stick was roasting thanks again 👍

28 minutes ago, AmusedMussel said:

The coolant looked a little on the low side. Any particular brand I should look at?

I take it it's a done deal.hope you enjoy it 👍. sorry don't know anything about the coolant.i. Rely on the guys in this forum for their vast array of info

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Madvlad65

It is definitely done! Just been trying to figure the Bluetooth (i got it now). Yeah, will hang fire before I go and pick some up

 

 

Coolant.  VW G12+. 

 As long as between Min & Max it is fine as there is no 'FILL TO THIS LEVEL'  & if you fill to MAX it might then set it's own level.

Watch for any Coolant Loss as that can be a sign the water pump needs replacing.

Sorry, where can I buy that from?

Ebay / Amazon, Motor Factors, Dealership parts departments.

 

Spark Plugs, coolant etc.    Maybe a discount code available.

http://opieoils.co.uk

 

 

You will get G13.

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Good luck with the car, had mine 3 years this week and only had a few minimal issues that were cheap enough to fix....Mine reached 50000 miles yesterday and I'd be lying if I said I hadn't abused the car.

 

radiator leaked - £62 for new rad

Water pump died - At the time the pump cost me £110 but now you can get them for under £65

 

This is from my experience and only my opinion of course - 

 

Spark plugs -  NGK BKR7EIX gapped at 0.8mm if the cars standard, Tuned gap to 0.6mm

Oil - 5w30 or 5w40,5w30 has been totally fine and caused no issues on my CTHE engine

 

If your not shy with a toolset this is the car for you, servicing is a doddle, replacing parts is simple. 

 

Did you get any warranty? My advice would be to play it safe and get 12 months warranty minimum, even if its from skoda.

Issue with a warranty is that it is a 9 year old car. Also with a replacement engine, but if a dealer fitted that is not a problem. (If remapped it can be. you would need to check.)

So read any T&C's of a Warranty re Max costs paid,

car value to cost of repair, as the warranty you are concerned about is the Engine & Gearbox repairs.

 

Skoda Warranties bought on cars with FMDSH have had the Warranty Rejected because of Known Issues, 

& it is Skoda / VW that know yet their company sold the warranty.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/440772-nightmare-fabia-vrs-engine-replacement-needed

SKODA EXTENDED WARRANTY PURCHASERS BEWARE!   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Edited 2 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

@AmusedMussel

?

What was the story on the replacement engine, was there a paper trail for the engine and who it was replaced by and anything for the DVLA / Police if ever required.

 

?

If you can be bothered when looking at the Airbox / & filter in it, could you take a picture of the ECU just to see what is fitted, 

and if it was maybe replaced when the engine was.

& look at the orange sticker at the drivers side of the engine and any on the ECU please.

Invoices for the fitment of the engine. Invoices for the problems that led up to the old one being written off. A letter stating a contribution from Skoda and which garage it was done at. The car had been serviced at the same garage for years before it was then replaced by that garage. Which was a franchise, as I understand it.

 

I'm under the impression the engine code stayed the same. No changes on the V5 anyway.

 

When I take a look at the induction system, i'll snap some pics. It looks very similar to a 1.2TSI i had a few years ago on a Polo R-line I used to own

 

 

Just wondering if maybe a CTHE was fitted.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/455901-no-record-of-new-engine-fitted-to-vrs-tsi-under-warranty

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/324108-replacement-engines-engine-numbers-v5-dvla-skoda-uk-what-happened

 

 

 

Edited 2 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Could be, it was done really late... is there anyway to really check that?

You could take a picture of the ECU and that might help.

 

All sort went on with New / Refurbished engines and Skoda UK & Dealerships tell all different tales.

 

The thing is if you already have a good engine, and maybe very good engine management, do not go and get a 'Remap' until you have it on a Dyno.

& if i was you i would Dyno it before modding, even changing the induction.

 

Some replacement engines were very good at producing power.  See what you have before changing that,. IMO.

Alright, I'll have a think about it. I'm not going to map it, or get a tuning box. Its plenty of power for me. I like the exhaust note too, just wondered about the induction was all

Have you looked to see if the exhaust is a standard one.  Or standard springs?

?

Have you put in 99 ron Super Unleaded yet?

I had to get the big magnifying glass out and play detective work to find out who replaced my engine as it was done by "Meadings Skoda". They happily sent me the paperwork to prove it was a CTHE they replaced it with however to this day when connected to VCDS it still says CAVE, I'm not sure of the ins and outs or whether they need to replace the ecu?

Sorry to but in guys. If a cave engine was changed for the cthe would the ECU be replaced or just reprogramd just bet me to it mickmartin

Edited 2 June, 20206 yr by Madvlad65

5 minutes ago, Mickmartin said:

I had to get the big magnifying glass out and play detective work to find out who replaced my engine as it was done by "Meadings Skoda". They happily sent me the paperwork to prove it was a CTHE they replaced it with however to this day when connected to VCDS it still says CAVE, I'm not sure of the ins and outs or whether they need to replace the ecu?

Is there any marks or sticker on the to show if it's a cthe just wanted to check mine

As always, No simple answer'.

 

3 different ECU's & Engine Management / maps that were used with just CAVE engines in Skoda 2010-2012.

Now there was Security Bolts on the Bracket, and not locked, then Locked ECU's.

 

Then with the CTHE's there are 2 ECU's that are externally different.

There was the carry on with it taking 2 -3 years before REVO & APR actually could remap.

 

@VrsGeo

Had a new engine fitted by Ingrams Ayr and they could not get it to run and a new ECU had to be ordered in.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/392363-remap-options-vrs

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/302195-fabia-mk2-vrs-late-2012-on-cthe-14-tsi-engine-remaps

 

Edited 2 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

2 minutes ago, Madvlad65 said:

Is there any marks or sticker on the to show if it's a cthe just wanted to check mine

 

Mine had nothing on it at all in terms of figuring out as I had asked in here before, I had to contact the previous owner and they gave me details.

 

as @Roottootemblowinootsoot said it could be on the ECU  if that was changed,