Haldex Pump filter blocked.

[o6w6e6n]

So glad I’m getting this cleaned.

 

According to Marshall Skoda Leicester these things don’t exist, and the simple oil change is enough.

 

Get yours checked people

 

 

[Gti Jazz Blue]

How many miles is that at ?

[o6w6e6n]

Only 44k 

 

unbelievable 

[juan27]

Lots about this over in the Yeti section too. We just had a Haldex service on ours at 18K and 3 years old, but as the OP suggests that was probably just an oil change.  Will probably take it to an independent garage that will take the pump off and clean it next time.

 

 

[o6w6e6n]

Looking around, it’s suggested this is to be done every 10k miles. I’m certainly going to continue doing mine. 

[juan27]

4 minutes ago, o6w6e6n said:

Looking around, it’s suggested this is to be done every 10k miles. I’m certainly going to continue doing mine. 

 

Did you do this yourself?   

[J.R.]

Every 10K seems rather excessive, but I suppose it would do no harm were I to remove mine to inspect at 20K then I would know whether to do it at 40k, 20k or even 10k.

 

Everybodies use of the 4WD system will be different, some will rarely if ever engage it.

[o6w6e6n]

1 hour ago, juan27 said:

 

Did you do this yourself?   

My local mechanics in Groby, Leicestershire 

[Gti Jazz Blue]

I wonder if the Golf R has a service schedule for a filter clean as I bet that there is a lot out there on which the Haldex will get a lot of use.

[o6w6e6n]

As far as I’m aware they suffer the same fate according to other posts in this forum 

[juan27]

None of the Gen 5 VAG cars have an official schedule for filter cleaning, just oil change as far as I'm aware. 

[juan27]

8 hours ago, Gti Jazz Blue said:

I wonder if the Golf R has a service schedule for a filter clean as I bet that there is a lot out there on which the Haldex will get a lot of use.

 

Thinking about it will a Golf R on tarmac be using its Haldex as much as a Scout or Yeti on grass or mud?   

[octavia5]

This is a picture of my MK7 Golf R filter at 4400 miles - so I suggest you get it done every 5k or so, no more.  Not single launch in this car and no mods of any kind just normal driving for a 71 year old, well normal for a 71 year old that drives an R.

 

 

Edited 10 July, 2020 by octavia5

[PetrolDave]

All the filter photos show what appears to be thick and gloopy 'stuff' blocking the filters, what causes this to be formed?

 

[J.R.]

Driving like a 71 year old

 

That is shocking Octavia5!

 

Maybe its not wear of the plate material but a degradation or breakdown caused by the oil?

 

Under normal operating conditions there will be little or no differential movement between the plates in the clutch pack and any wear is going to take part when the coupling is not engaged.

[sparky2]

Don't forget to change the filter (gen4) that doesn't exist according to Skoda !

 

Edited 10 July, 2020 by sparky2

[PetrolDave]

12 hours ago, J.R. said:

Maybe its not wear of the plate material but a degradation or breakdown caused by the oil?

That's where I was going with my question - i.e. is the recommended oil "fit for purpose"?

[classic]

Basically it’s a crap design with an even worse service schedule from Skoda, VW and Audi.

I was told Jag and Volvo use the same Haldex and they do recognise the existence of the filter and replace it as part of the service. Does anyone know if that’s true ?

[juan27]

I was reading about the O4 Scout today and they are talking about Gen 6 Haldex. I wonder if any of the issues have been addressed?

[Nickj633]

I’ve posted about this before. My 2015 scout is on 76k and I’ve changed the fluid and cleaned the filter twice now. A messy but relatively easy job. 
Like most parts the frequency of service / cleaning depends entirely on how much use it gets. The Gen 5, which is on my car, and most cars after 2015/16 is slightly different in that it always provides some small amount of traction to the rear wheels, so no matter how you drive there will always be wear. Of course if you tow very regularly, or off road you may need to consider a regular inspection. I don’t, so every 30k. Each time there has been a small amount of build up, easily removed and a discolouration of the liquid, nothing worse than that. The filter can be a bugger to take off, but one done it is easy to clean. 
I have to say it has never clogged up like these pictures, which may suggest something else may be the cause, like over wearing of the friction material.

 

Nick

[J.R.]

I think that we can agree that as with any wet or dry clutch wear occurs when there is relative movement between the clutch plates and it is proportional to the load being transmitted, negligible wear will occur when the clutch is disengaged and the engine revved, lots of wear if you do that reversing a caravan up a hill.

 

In normal driving conditions the Haldex is either disengaged or allowing a small amount of drive to be transmitted, as there is no central differential there will only be slip in the coupling when not driving in a straight line or if there is tyre wear difference between front & rear axles.

 

If you were to drift the vehicle around a hot rod oval wear would occur in the coupling and heat would be generated, my 7's with plate LSD's could get very hot and when it was a confined diff housing for IRS a pump an oil cooler could be needed so heat is by far the best indicator of wear going on inside.

 

I have doubts over my rear differential (not the haldex coupling) as I made a big mistake and drove it for a long high speed journey without oil, it seems a little noisy now but could be normal & a lack of soundproofing, after any reasonable journey I now get underneath to feel the temp of the diff which is to date OK but also the front of the casing where the Haldex oil sits and it has always been very cool to the touch.

 

I dont think there is measurable wear going on, nobody has ever had to replace the Haldex friction plates, I think that its something else going on between the oil and the organic friction material causing the sludge.

 

As the oil is so expensive I am considering using a different lubricant, perhaps ATF but will do some research first, I know that using fully synthetic engine oils rather than Castrol superbike oil in my Blackbird engined Caterham will cause clutch slip, the friction modifier additive is not compatible with the wet clutch which is being asked to drive a much heavier vehicle with better traction than the motorcycle.

Edited 12 July, 2020 by J.R.

[MTwedVRS]

Here’s mine on exactly 20k (18 plate 4x4 Octavia vRS). 

 

I will 100% be doing this every 10k miles, for the £100 its entirely worth it considering at 20k its completely clogged up!

[flybynite]

My question, has anyone found the same contamination on a second service or is this a single contamination happening from new?

 

7 hours ago, J.R. said:

As the oil is so expensive I am considering using a different lubricant,

 

AFAIK Borg Warner specify only this oil but where are you getting it from?

 

You can get the oil branded by Borg Warner cheaper than in a VAG-branded bottle

 

 

[J.R.]

Mine came from a German E-bay seller for €17 = £15.

 

Febi Bilstein branded.

 

Good question regarding the subsequent servicing, I will probably do mine again after a year & then will know if I can relax the régime.

Edited 12 July, 2020 by J.R.

[MTwedVRS]

On 12/07/2020 at 22:02, flybynite said:

My question, has anyone found the same contamination on a second service or is this a single contamination happening from new?

 

 

AFAIK Borg Warner specify only this oil but where are you getting it from?

 

You can get the oil branded by Borg Warner cheaper than in a VAG-branded bottle

 

 

 

Good question... I am 8k away from doing it again so if no one beats me to it, I’ll let you know!