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Big Turbo setup for my 4x4


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No, just a panel filter in a modified airbox, better than any CAI performance wise IMO.

Thats what i've thought for a while too, this induction kit malarky isn't all that its cracked up to be, especially when its hot. Add to that messing around with intake lengths etc and all is not what it seems.

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Thats what i've thought for a while too, this induction kit malarky isn't all that its cracked up to be, especially when its hot. Add to that messing around with intake lengths etc and all is not what it seems.

I've seen good gains from just modifying the standard airbox. GaryM did lots of testing and logging of airflows comparing a CAI to a modified airbox and the airbox was significantly better.

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Eddy, hi.

after installing the T30 what exactly have u done with the boost controller to make it work and not cut u when it gets too much. plz let me know coz i cant get the boost to work properly on the gt28rs.

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I won't be using a boost controller it's all done by the Phase 3 Custom Code Software. Using this software on there previous setup which was a GT28RS JBS managed to get boost as high as 34psi.

Good software is very important on BT setups, you need to go somewhere with experience of mapping them. I'm not sure who can do this in your part of the world but in the UK Custom-Code, Impossible Performance and Jabba are all highly rated for the big turbo maping.

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Is 'GT30' just short for GT3071R then? Its up an runnning is it, I suppose it is a while since i was last there and the turbo was yet to go in!

Its a gt 3071 wg. Basically a gt 30 squeezed into a gt 28 housing. Its the biggest set up for that design, with a bigger cold side. Good for top end power from better breathing and flows enough for 450 hp. It will probably give more but you reduce the life of the turbo.

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what sort of mods do you mean to the airbox, smoothing the inside of it, or other things?

I got good results from smoothing the airbox. Fitting a cold feed (I used ducting made by green which is better than normal ducting as it stays smooth on the inside even when bent unlike cheap vent duct from B&Q). I also removed the screening on the MAF housing. I then just fitted a green cotton panel filter.

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I got good results from smoothing the airbox. Fitting a cold feed (I used ducting made by green which is better than normal ducting as it stays smooth on the inside even when bent unlike cheap vent duct from B&Q). I also removed the screening on the MAF housing. I then just fitted a green cotton panel filter.

Smoothing the airbox? Do you mean removing all fins etc?

What is the 'smooth' flexible ducting?

Would removing the screening on the MAF be an issue if/when you p/x it for a replacement?

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Smoothing the airbox? Do you mean removing all fins etc?

What is the 'smooth' flexible ducting?

Would removing the screening on the MAF be an issue if/when you p/x it for a replacement?

Yeah smoothing is making the inside of the box totally smooth.

The ducting is around

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Even though Jbs haven't suggested the big port head, I'd still consider it. You can take advantage of the extra cc and extra air provided by the turbo. Whats the point of increasing capacity and air flow, then stangle it at the head. Have a look at the head comparison below.

9166.attach

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The head has already been sent off for matching to the valves so not sure what to do. I'll have a word to see what they think.

EDIT: I notice the main difference on the graph is on the intake which I'm having enlarged anway along with matching valves.

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Yeah smoothing is making the inside of the box totally smooth.

Looking at the inside of the top of the air box there is a removable 'ram pipe'. I assume that is better left in place to help with smoothing the air flow rather than having a step-change in cross-section (memories of lots of equations containg COSH terms....) at the MAF inlet.

Having said that (and looking at where the dirt is deposited on the outside of the filter), as the ram pipe is so close to the filter element, the 'effective area 'of the air filter appears to be reduced considerably.

The ducting is around £20 for 1 metre and is available from any green dealer, I got mine from JBS.

My (super optimised for turbulent flow...) B&Q ducting was 5quid for 3m :D

As the Turbo heats the air I'm wondering if there is much point in attempting to collect slightly cooler air from the lower bumper region. I'll probably rig something up anyway though, just 'because'.

That MAF screening is just begging to be removed.

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Guest Fabia 12v

Wow that thing will be a monster! Be sure to put a vRS front bumper on it :thumbup: I'll happerly pay for a passenger ride when its complete!

Now to hint to rents next steps with our 4x4!!!

Hope it goes well and copes with the extra power/torque

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Eddie' date=' give Bill a ring at Badger 5. He's got a 1.9 with a big port head, albeit with an IHI. He can give you some advice. :thumbup:

Look at the difference in port size in the pic below.[/quote']

I'll have a word with Bill and also discuss it with Kev.

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Wow that thing will be a monster! Be sure to put a vRS front bumper on it :thumbup: I'll happerly pay for a passenger ride when its complete!

Now to hint to rents next steps with our 4x4!!!

Hope it goes well and copes with the extra power/torque

As Josh quite rightly says I do already have a vRS front bumper, I also have a milotec rear diffuser with exhaust cut out for my 6"x4" oval tailpipe and I've just bought a vRS rear spoiler. The bump strips are also colour coded and I have vRS side repeaters.

Would it be a good idea to post up my existing spec and a few pics?

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Yeah as said by others they're smoked, also only cost about £1.50. However on a white car like yours I think the standard clear ones maybe better.

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