1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

it gets depleted rather quickly so I change it every 2 years. 

 

I found tonight another intetesting thing:

 

Remember that the 50 - 50 mixture of the two is recommended in the extremely cold weather so that the water won’t freeze. Taking that for reference, with quite high temperatures in our tropical climate, Philippine car owners may use a proportion of 20-80 car coolant and distilled water or even higher of 10-90.

 

https://philkotse.com/

 

_______________

 

We also have hot climate here so if we apply a 20% antifreeze percentage and change it every 2 years is OK or it's risky and must stay on the 30-70 rule?

 

 

On 28/12/2021 at 08:57, D.FYLAKTOS said:

From the Motul coolant that i use now i have found this

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/inugel_expert_ultra_en_fr_motul.pdf

 

To maintain anti-corrosion properties, do not dilute below 33%

If you are using Motul and they put 33% as a minimum why not stick to that.

 

9 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

30-70

Honestly I would stick to that no less and you won't see any difference if you want that slightly better cooling use mocool for example do not sacrifice corrosion protection in an old aluminum engine 

Edited 31 December, 20214 yr by Thefeliciahacker

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

If you are using Motul and they put 33% as a minimum why not stick to that.

 

 

WD-40 company promotes their spray ''for 2000 uses" and MoCool says on the label "Reduces engine temperature by 15 'C (30 degree Fahrenheit)" but 30 'F are 1.1 'C and not 15 'C.

Do you believe sir all these without questioning?

 

As you show above in countries with hot climate some things are changing for practical reasons.

Unfortunately i use my car lately for short roots and when the coolant delays to come to the proper temperature i have a big fuel consumption problem, my car works worst that a taxi because even a taxi can find a boulevard and speed a little bit or let it roll, i am not.

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

30 'F are 1.1 'C and not 15 'C.

And I make 30F degrees * 5/9 to be 16.67C degrees.

11 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

And I make 30F degrees * 5/9 to be 16.67C degrees.

If you put (as i have done) Mocool in your Felicia and you see more than one click temperature drop (1 or 2 'C the most) i publicly commit that i will sell my car and i will send you all the money.

 

I forgot the word "actually" that's why i added the: 

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Do you believe sir all these without questioning?

 

24 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

And I make 30F degrees * 5/9 to be 16.67C degrees.

You forgot to deduct 32 before the fraction.

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Do you believe sir all these without questioning?

I would ring the company and talk to one of the technical people and with my charm, age and experience try to get an off-the-record opinion as obviously they may normally have to stick to the "company line" but often given the right approach some people are prepared to be flexible.

 

Or if you are now at 50% try the other extreme of 10% or 20% to see if gives you the change you want, if it does not you can always increase the concentration of antifreeze.

 

I can not see how reducing the concentration will make the difference you want.  If you want the engine warm up to be quicker and starting warmer then you might want to consider some sort of preheating/prewarming to the coolant system or engine or perhaps something to reduce the cold coming in like a radiator blind.

 

Have you checked your coolant thermostat, that it is not stuck open or opens at around the correct temperature - though your temperature seems to rise quick enough to me - or you could install a thermostat that open at a higher temperature that would delay the cooling.  Thermostats have a manufacturing tolerance and the American made ones at least have a +/- 3f tolerance, the stated temperature is when they start to open and are only fully open about 15f-20f degrees above its rated temperature so two thermostats with different ratings may still operate a lot closer than expected (say 82c and 88c).  I do not know about European or other areas tolerances.

 

27 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You forgot to deduct 32 before the fraction.

Have you use Mocool and see what they claim?

 

21 minutes ago, nta16 said:

you might want to consider some sort of preheating/prewarming to the coolant system or engine or perhaps something to reduce the cold coming in like a radiator blind.

Amsoil has a similar product, can be found here but sir i had to think it more about it.

As for the thermostats a Felicia owner has no many options, local and foreign e-shops have 87 or 88 'C models.

Examples: Here and Here

Edited 31 December, 20214 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

I am still amazed that after unwittingly driving 20K miles over 2 years with plain tap water in my cooling system what came out looked as clean as a whistle with no traces of corrosion residue, I have never ever seen that before in 30 years of running bangers where the cooling systems were constantly leaking or being drained for mechanical work and anti-freeze was an afterthought when the freezing weather came, ie not constantly in the system.

 

And my car seemingly does not have the Silkat which VAG say is there to give corrosion protection if the system has no anti-freeze.

 

At best mine may have had half a litre of the original mixed G13 coolant remaining mixed with the water but you could not see from the colour or taste.

 

At present until I get back to the UK and the delivery of G13 I  have less than a 1/3 of the concentration of G12+ in the system that it should have, I will be concerned if we have a prolonged freeze below -10°c but not concerned about corrosion.

22 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

If you put (as i have done) Mocool in your Felicia and you see more than one click temperature drop (1 or 2 'C the most) i publicly commit that i will sell my car and i will send you all the money.

You have only just introduced this aspect, I am not a Motul employee so will not defend them but on the bottle (if not the data sheet) it has "up to 15c / 30f"  and about racing so I assume (always dangerous) this is at the top end of the temperatures and not runs 15c cooler throughout the range but again I would ask Motul what they mean.

 

I understand you want your car running cooler in hot city traffic but I have no idea if this extra cooling effects your cold starts.

 

mocool_en_fr_motul.pdf

43 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You forgot to deduct 32 before the fraction.

No I didn't. I said $scale degrees on both sides of the equation.

IF your thermostat is as below then you would need to look for one that is the same but with at a different temperature - thing is if the temperate is higher this will mean it may open later at cold starts but it will also probably mean it only fully opens at a higher temperature which may not be so good for hot city driving.

 

You would have to ask tropan what their manufacturing tolerances are for thermostats.  (ETA: though they may have these made by another company or buy them in).

 

Over here we are more used to seeing products like Waterwetter (it is American though). - https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter

 

Edited 31 December, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA:

Two quick thoughts, IF you have a thermostat as above, or perhaps even other, have you drilled a hole through the plate?

 

Did you make the mistake of putting more than 5% MoCool into your coolant?

 

36 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

No I didn't. I said $scale degrees on both sides of the equation.

 

You have completely lost me there, $ scale? both sides of the equation?

 

Could you explain what you meant originally and are trying to say now, preferably with an example please?

58 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

I understand you want your car running cooler in hot city traffic but I have no idea if this extra cooling effects your cold starts.

Maybe does, that's why i remove it and i am trying to wash it out with distilled water changes.

I suspect another mistake with 2 brands of G11 mixed (i was in the country, i had a thermostat failure and i couldn't find the same) with Mocool added too to make things worst.

I make some measurements the last days with only distilled water as coolant to see the effect on cold starts and the fuel consumption based on TC-6.

37 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 IF you have a thermostat as above, or perhaps even other, have you drilled a hole through the plate?

 

 

 

The thermostat shown has a jiggle pin to allow a small amount of water circulation which prevents it opening with a bang way past the set temperature however if they are fitted backwards (usually the design will prevent this) they cause all sorts of problems, also on kit car conversions like a water rail for the Zetec which places the thermostat remotely drilling a calibrated hole in the stat is necessary.

46 minutes ago, nta16 said:

like Waterwetter (it is American though).

We know Waterwetter (as many USA products it can be found here) i have test it in summer trips but it's not for cold starts, it's to help your motor to fight overheat.

 

37 minutes ago, nta16 said:

have you drilled a hole through the plate?

 No,i bought the thermostat inside a new housing and the mechanic install it with new gasket.

 

The hole helps the first minutes till the coolant reach the proper temperature?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

We know Waterwetter (as many USA products it can be found here) i have test it in summer trips but it's not for cold starts, it's to help your motor to fight overheat.

Yes but surely that is the same for MoCool.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The hole helps the first minutes till the coolant reach the proper temperature?

Some put a hole(s) in those type because they have removed a bypass, others when they get one without a jingle pin, or even with, to let air passed.  It obviously lets some coolant passed when the thermostat is closed can slow warming up a little.

 

I think you have the right idea to clean and start again, I do not think the mixing of different antifreezes and extra additives is a great idea, it might be fine but I would sooner keep to one type.  I would put in a flush cleaner then after flush, backflush, flush again engine, radiator and heater making sure I had got as much residue out of each of the three areas at each stage as possible (but this is really a job for summer weather).  

 

2 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Yes but surely that is the same for MoCool

 

No sir, it's the Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost, works a bit different than MoCool.

 

https://www.amsoil.com/p/dominator-coolant-boost-rdcb/

 

here is a related video:

 

 

but wait, at 1:50 says ''does not lubricate your water pump'' so  @KenONeill isn't that Amsoil guy talking ''bull faesces'' at that point?

hole is for bleeding 

I was comparing Water wetter with MoCool, neither say about aiding warm-up so with its tiered surfactant then the Amsoil must be your choice, of the three at least.

 

In the video he explains why you do not see a difference on your temperature gauge with the MoCool Amsoil - 3:28 to 4:45 until the thermostat is fully open it is controlling the engine coolant temperature.

 

Given your previous question about trust, this chap is not from Amsoil, he is just wearing one of their shirts, he is just someone trying to sell the product.  He was talking about starting the car and leaving it at idle to warm up, as previously put this is not a good idea.  These guys in USA have huge V8s that tick over really slow anyway.  He says the coolant boost will boost the anti-corrosion and make it last longer which is fair enough but if you make timely changes of your coolant it will not be badly depleted anyway.

 

I am not against additives, I particularly like them if they are already in the product but I think your car appears in your cold starts to warm quickly anyway, if you have your heater turned off at cold so the coolant does not go through it that would also speed up the engine warming a bit, in the same way as having the heater on when the engine is getting hot will help to cool it a little bit.  In the video he was talking about 15 minutes for the engine to warm, has your car ever taken 15 minutes to show say 90 on the gauge.

 

As has been shown these products originate from racing where they do not use coolant but rather just water and if you are not worried about water freezing then you could use these products and just water or as you have suggested a smaller ratio of antifreeze plus the Amsoil.

 

You seem to have done your research why not have more faith in your research and yourself and go ahead and let us know how you get o and if it improves you kpl.

 

 

Edited 1 January, 20224 yr by nta16
put wrong product

32 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

hole is for bleeding 

I was thinking more of a hole that is added after manufacture.

 

ETA: photo of underside of jiggle pin

Edited 31 December, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA:

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost

Well, I didn't watch the video. I did read the COSHH data sheet though, and it contains no noticeable amount of any known lubricant.

55 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Well, I didn't watch the video. I did read the COSHH data sheet though, and it contains no noticeable amount of any known lubricant.

Perhaps the if there is a lubricant it isn't hazardous, also depends on what is classed as a lubricant.  Have a look at the attached SDS for AMSOIL Signature Series oil 90-98% by weight of the product doesn't appear on it, see attached.

 

One of the best lubricants know to man or woman, real ale, has ingredients that anyone should be able to make an ale out of but it's the blend and the execution of manufacture that make some very good, some mediocre and others undrinkable, same with a sponge cake, dead easy for just about anyone to put the ingredients together and cook yet some will be superb, some mediocre, others inedible.

 

Not speaking American I did not realise the sales brochure is called the Data Bulletin, see attached, on it very unsurprisingly they do use a 350 cubic inch (5.7 litre) Chevy for the tests and there is a Engine Warm-up Time Reduction with 50/50 mix at 30˚F TO 120˚F (49°C TO 82°C) from 6.3 Min to 3.2 Min with Coolant Boost added.

 

By adding the Coolant Boost in a 50/50 mix there was a reported 8˚F (4.5°C) reduction (read the test details for yourself) and 25˚F (13.8°C) reduction reported when added to with straight water.

 

azf.pdf g2785.pdf

Edited 31 December, 20214 yr by nta16