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How much time do you warm-up your Felicia?


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1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

yeah it's not that it works, it is just that the higher sulfur content will harm the brass synchros long term,

That is where you are wrong, it depends on the particular GL5 oil, very old formulas will, some of the newer formula GL5 actually say they will not harm 'yellow metals', others do not have it on the packaging as they are not aimed at such a market but as a newer formula can be safe.

 

We will have to wait and see if the synchros fail in my gearbox - and D.FYLAKTOS'.  😮

 

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I use valvoline

A lot of the very old owners of "classic" cars over here swear by Valvoline in their British "classic" cars, which is fine but it is American and  I prefer to support a more local oil blender, and better product than the Valvoline they use.

 

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14 hours ago, nta16 said:

We will have to wait and see if the synchros fail in my gearbox - and D.FYLAKTOS'.

 

Is it possible to make a call or send an email to a local Uk Motul distributor and ask him about their GL-5/GL-5 gear oil in a old car as is Felicia on which the manufacturer says GL-4?

 

@Thefeliciahacker : No i haven't see here and i don't want to use E10

 

https://club.autodoc.gr/magazin/benzinh-e10-epiptwseis-synepeies-kindynoi#lwptoc

 

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As I put before the Motul Motylgear 75w-90 Technical Data Sheet states -

"Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design."https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20210712.pdf

 

MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20210712.pdf

 

Personally I contact the oil company but the Motul GB contact webpage has the Head Office in France and Trade Only phone number but an open info@ email address, they also have  a 'UK & Ireland Automotive & PCMO' enquiries contact personal email and personal mobile phone number (I never ring mobile numbers because of the cost and poor reception of network and mobile devices, which have annoyed me for so many decades).  GB Motul and official GB distributors contact details. - https://www.motul.com/gb/en/information/contact_us

 

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3 hours ago, nta16 said:

As I put before the Motul Motylgear 75w-90 Technical Data Sheet states -

"Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design."

 

 

I have use that brand-type for about 50.000 km (first time for about 30.000Km and now i have the second change for 20.000 and going) so if there was a problem the "synchronize" (as they call it here in GR) would have fail so far?

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Now you know I am not an oil expert or expert on anything, you would have to ask those who are genuine experts or listen to those who think they might know.  50,000km (31k-miles) may be not be enough usage to be able to tell.  You need to know at what 'mileage' a well maintained gearbox using GL4 usually has synchro failure.

 

Many of those who think they might know and some "experts" will be amazed that you changed the gearbox oil at such intervals anyway.  Oil analysis would tell you if yellow metals are present and perhaps the cause or you might need to decide if they are from the use of GL5 or other reasons.

 

I have had appropriate GL5 oils in my gearbox for many years despite others saying it will ruin the 'yellow metals', in the same way decades back they said synthetic oil would ruin my engine, neither has proved to be correct so far - but I do hope my gearbox is dead before I am.

 

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45 minutes ago, nta16 said:

50,000km (31k-miles) may be not be enough usage to be able to tell.

 

So far i had 2 problems with my gear stick only and after replacing some parts is better than ever. No transmission jumps Into Neutral, all the gear can engaged, no problem with Reverse, no hard to move the shift lever feeling etc.

By the way the fuel consumption all these days is 10,60 ltr or 26.64 Uk mpg, same hard city traffic conditions.

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16 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No transmission jumps Into Neutral, all the gear can engaged, no problem with Reverse, no hard to move the shift lever feeling etc.

A sceptic or "expert" would say you would have the same result with not changing the oil, only time will tell but also bear in mind many of these sceptics and "experts" have lower expectations of quality, what is good or perfectly fine to them may not be acceptable to you.

 

16 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

By the way the fuel consumption all these days is 10,60 ltr or 26.64 Uk mpg, same hard city traffic conditions.

A plateau but still steady and better than before, you will have to see what changes with the weather.  One of the biggest improvements to a vehicle's regular performance is driving training and technique.  It is also one of the most overlooked tuning improvements too.  (N.B. I am not a good driver by any standards.)

  

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6 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I think you need to heat up the air going into the combustion chamber. 

 

But i already have installed the original Skoda flap mechanism, feeds the air box with hot air from the exhaust manifold.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/19/?tab=comments#comment-5638614

 

Sometimes i wonder if gauze filters as K&N (and BMC that i have now) don't help that process or the factory paper filter does.

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5 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Sometimes i wonder if gauze filters as K&N (and BMC that i have now) don't help that process or the factory paper filter does.

If they have too much oil added after cleaning they can restrict airflow, the K&N at least, I know because I have done that (twice).  When I went on the rolling road the tuner took the compressed airline to blow out almost all of the oil I had put (overloaded) on to them (SU twin carbs).

 

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54 minutes ago, nta16 said:

If they have too much oil added after cleaning they can restrict airflow

 

 

 

Looks very ''cheap" video but the guy at 3:29 till 3:32 says the truth. Mine as i have noticed is dry which means i had to oil it BUT i must be cautious otherwise the MAP will get dirty.

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15 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Mine as i have noticed is dry

Be aware that they only retain that red colour if not used much with use they go more a light-ish grey depending on the debris they stop.

 

15 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

must be cautious otherwise the MAP will get dirty

Good point.

 

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1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

but are slighty expensive

 

https://issuu.com/sprintfilter/docs/air-filter-element-flow-analysis_wa_b9b4f7976f1b38

 

Trinity Saint David University of Wales Report about all performance air filters analysis and comparison:

Sprint Filter, K&N, K&N Race, BMC air filter, BMC Race, air filter, Pipercross, MWR. Patented P08 and P08 waterproof polyester against cotton and sponge air filters

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11 hours ago, nta16 said:

Be aware that they only retain that red colour if not used muck with use they go more a light-ish grey depending on the debris they stop.

 

You are right. No oil on the surface no blocking dust etc but this is ''double-edged sword''.

I will post some photos from my BMC filters that i have removed today, i am very disappointed and i don't want to use the same brand again (either the K&N).

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26 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Trinity Saint David University of Wales Report about all performance air filters analysis and comparison:

Sprint Filter, K&N, K&N Race, BMC air filter, BMC Race, air filter, Pipercross, MWR. Patented P08 and P08 waterproof polyester against cotton and sponge air filters

That was a test on new unused filters as far as I could see and stated it did not test filtration, an important part of a filter's job so a second test is required to see the performance with reasonable use.  I have no idea how many times and how much use a race filter actually gets but sport items generally have a very short life and use especially compared to what is expected from road use.

 

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29 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I will post some photos from my BMC filters that i have removed today, i am very disappointed and i don't want to use the same brand again (either the K&N).

Don't forget it is all about how they perform not how they look, how much air they let through and how much muck they stop from getting inside the engine, how they filter with use.

 

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34 minutes ago, nta16 said:

That was a test on new unused filters as far as I could see and stated it did not test filtration, an important part of a filter's job so a second test is required to see the performance with reasonable use.  I have no idea how many times and how much use a race filter actually gets but sport items generally have a very short life and use especially compared to what is expected from road use.

 

Filtration is excellent and air permeation when dust loading occurs is very consistently linear and not exponential as with cotton gauze 

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2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Filtration is excellent and air permeation when dust loading occurs is very consistently linear and not exponential as with cotton gauze 

Great.

 

Unfortunately they do not make them for older cars like mine.

 

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3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Don't forget it is all about how they perform not how they look, how much air they let through and how muck muck they stop from getting inside the engine, how they filter with use.

 

 

Do performance air filters like BMC, K&N, Sprint let more sand and dust than OEM and is it worth it?

 

We looked at automotive air filters and their efficiency on the Alfa Romeo Giulia and how the OEM paper filter compares to the cotton gauze style K&N or BMC filters and the single layer synthetic filter like the Sprint filter.

 

 

 

Although hitting a filter in a hard surface isn't the best way to test the permeability the results were unexpectable.

For sure in different conditions the results would be different (more scientific) but i think you will get the idea.

 

 

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36 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Do performance air filters like BMC, K&N, Sprint let more sand and dust than OEM and is it worth it?

I've seen this video, this video would make you worried, but you shouldn't.
Let me explain why, first of all i've fitted a sprint p08 on my car.
That test doesn't tell anything, you are puting a extraordinary amount of foreign material on the filter, more that it would ever be accumulated by all your air filters combined.
Secondly the oil style filters will perform much better in such a test as the oil has time to adhere to particles.
The sprint is a very fine mesh so, it simply seperates out particles above its micron rating.
Thats why sprint has 3 types of filters.
Filtering efficiecny of the p08 is as follows.
100μm = 93%
80μm = 70%

60μm = 34%

40μm = 0%

Of the p037 is
37μm = 93%

25μm = 70%

15μm = 34%

5μm = 0%

Of the p08f1-85 (race filter)

100μm = 95 %

85μm = 70%

75μm = 34%

65μm = 0%
That honestly is excellent filtration, the p037 can and WILL match paper filters, while flowing 10X as much, the p08 flows 12% better than the p037.
So for normal use the p08 is perfectly fine if you are rallying go for the p037 and if you want to have to retune the car go for the p08f1-85 as it flows 300% (yes 3 hundred percent) more than the p08...

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