1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

It may not be the best but it's widely available here. Like a can of cola, it's just everywhere.

Yes the WD-40 company is another large very invasive American corporation, like Coca-Cola, both own very many brands so you could be buying different labels but from same company.  WD-40 Company took over/bought-out the original GT-85 company so GT-85 is now another WD-40 Company brand and product (like 3-In-One).

 

A small can of WD-40 Multi-Use in the glovebox or boot is great for emergency use when out and about (but a can of GT-85 would be better) but more appropriate lubricant(s) are best kept at home / shed / garage.

 

Is it difficult to order online and have things posted in, though I too prefer to buy local when I can, what about cycle shops for GT-85, that's where I first found it in the 1980s.

 

Hylomar and Innotec are in Europe with wide distribution.

 

Edited 12 January, 20224 yr by nta16

Good advice about taking photos, I'd add - taking notes and/or drawings, and even marking alignments with markers (or Tippex) and as put marking the parts to keep them together and using cardboard sheet or through cardboard boxes lids for those that need to be kept in strict order.

 

Also note which way things like jubilee clips face and orientate to make them easy to get at to tighten (or loosen) when everything is fitted back in.

 

Containers or boxes are useful to keep parts in but also a container to keep your tools together and off the ground/ grit/dirt, plenty of clean rags and a waste container for what is disposed of.

 

Where required use an anti-seize compound, helps for next time of removing anything. 

 

Of course a reset your rocker valve clearances.

 

All part of the usual Plan - Do - Review of work jobs, and the more preparation of the location, tools, materials and job the better, and after review, clean up and replenish stocks.

 

Edited 13 January, 20224 yr by nta16
spelling

12 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Any advise on what to do with the rockers.

I wouldn't go for shortcuts. Do it by the book. What may appear as a time saver, it will bite you in the rear later.

Buy quality replacement parts for gaskets, liquid gaskets, bolts, nuts,etc. Be methodical and attentive to details. You do the head gasket job once for many years to come.

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Like 500rpm. Is that really idling low or the tachometer is slightly inaccurate?

Tacho is off, checked with vag com idle warm is about 750-800 rpm

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Also do you have Ford Cargo trucks roaming your streets? I mean is it a common truck in where you live?

Someone has good ears yes haha 

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

.  Or (if?) the o-ring is removeable just replace it.

Yes of course I'm buying a new one. 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Of course a reset your rocker valve clearances.

 

And twice first right after then after 1000km

11 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Also do you have Ford Cargo trucks roaming your streets?

 

I will grab the chance: not too many but yes.

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

And twice first right after then after 1000km

Fair enough, but sometimes you can spend too much time chasing spot on gaps on older used engines (or even when new for old British cars).

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

A small can of WD-40 Multi-Use in the glovebox or boot is great for emergency use when out and about (but a can of GT-85 would be better) but more appropriate lubricant(s) are best kept at home / shed / garage.

I'll keep GT-85 in mind. I'd like to try it.

 

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

9 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Also do you have Ford Cargo trucks roaming your streets? I mean is it a common truck in where you live?

Someone has good ears yes haha 

Was it in the video? I didn't know that. I was about to tell you something else.

There is a compatible part in those trucks with our cars. The expansion tank cap! Who would have known that?

 

Now the story first;

All of this below are not solid info. Just what I've heard from various sources.

I've kept hearing about the expansion tank caps in our cars were unreliable. The first original Favorits had a metallic cap which was reliable also they had 100kPa rating. The later plastic VW caps are either 120 or 140kPa. That's %40 more than the original spec.

With only a sliver of info about Ford Cargo truck expansion tank cap might be compatible with our cars, I've visited a truck parts store to physically test it before buying. It turned out to be true. It fits. It's clearly stated 100kPa on the cap too.

I've been using it since that day. It's been near 7 months. How long will it last? I don't know.

 

I know, seven months is not enough for a long term review. This is just FYI.

I'll add a pic.

 

 

Nah better have 1.2 bar 

3 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I'll add a pic.

7C46-8100-AB

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Nah better have 1.2 bar 

It didn't make any difference in temperature for me. I'll see about longevity.

Like I said above. Just FYI.

4 hours ago, R_Blue said:

There is a compatible part in those trucks with our cars. The expansion tank cap! Who would have known that?

 

https://partman.gr/product/tapa-docheioy-ypercheiliseos-ford-ranger-focus-fiesta-transit-mazda-bt-50-maz/

 

Isn't the same?

Some Skoda caps write 1.2 bar and some 1.0 bar, what is the gain compared with the above?

1.2 bar should give even higher boiling points, so better i guess

31 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

1.2 bar should give even higher boiling points, so better i guess

Yes, as far as it goes. Since a typical running temperature is around 90C, that will translate into the engine getting hotter before it boils, and make no other difference.

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

https://partman.gr/product/tapa-docheioy-ypercheiliseos-ford-ranger-focus-fiesta-transit-mazda-bt-50-maz/

 

Isn't the same?

Some Skoda caps write 1.2 bar and some 1.0 bar, what is the gain compared with the above?

The link you've provided above shows a cap that has 145kPa pressure value. It might be a completely different cap.

 

As @Thefeliciahacker and @KenONeill stated above, higher pressure caps, provide higher boiling point. As long as the system can handle the pressure.

 

In theory, a heavy truck part should be more reliable than a car part. They do millions of kilometers. This is the main idea but I'll see about that.

Edited 13 January, 20224 yr by R_Blue

Update the car lost a whole tank of coolant in one week. 

If tomorrow the weather is good head gasket will be on the table. 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Update the car lost a whole tank of coolant in one week. 

If tomorrow the weather is good head gasket will be on the table. 

Don't forget to check the spark plugs' condition.

Good luck!

11 hours ago, R_Blue said:

higher pressure caps, provide higher boiling point. As long as the system can handle the pressure.

 

 

Does someone wants temperatures in his Felicia (for example) more than 110 'C? The 120 'C is the limit before ''boom".

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Does someone wants temperatures in his Felicia (for example) more than 110 'C? The 120 'C is the limit before ''boom".

Exactly. Higher pressure caps play a role for compensating the lack of anti-freeze in competition cars.

 

Here are more caps:

 

Blue cap is standard cap for Favorit/Felicia. 6U0 121 321A.

Yellow cap was on the car when I got it. Checked it now and looks like it's not standard too. 001834583 number corresponds to Opel Vectra B cap. Also 001834583 matches with 90500007. There is huge list of cars use this cap.

Blue cap is listed everywhere as 120kPa.

Yellow is either 120 or 140kPa.

What's inside?

4 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Higher pressure caps play a role for compensating the lack of anti-freeze in competition cars.

 

Some guys use them here, in motorcycles (motocross) and japanese cars (TRD, with thermometer on the top).

10 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

If tomorrow the weather is good head gasket will be on the table. 

Try to keep the old head gasket intact to be able to "read" it and find out where the leak occurred. Take photos on both sides twice. Once with the head gasket as is (wet and dirty) and once after you cleaned it with a rag. Of course, the corrosion of the head will tell you also the story.

54 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

Try to keep the old head gasket intact to be able to "read" it and find out where the leak occurred. Take photos on both sides twice. Once with the head gasket as is (wet and dirty) and once after you cleaned it with a rag. Of course, the corrosion of the head will tell you also the story.

Of course I will

6 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Exactly. Higher pressure caps play a role for compensating the lack of anti-freeze in competition cars.

 

Here are more caps:

 

Blue cap is standard cap for Favorit/Felicia. 6U0 121 321A.

Yellow cap was on the car when I got it. Checked it now and looks like it's not standard too. 001834583 number corresponds to Opel Vectra B cap. Also 001834583 matches with 90500007. There is huge list of cars use this cap.

Blue cap is listed everywhere as 120kPa.

Yellow is either 120 or 140kPa.

What's inside?

I have had the blue cap, and now I am running birth italy rad caps

22 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

now I am running birth italy rad caps

 

These?

https://www.birth.it/en/products/cooling-parts/coolant-cap

What's the functional difference in your Fellicia?

https://kritosparts.gr/Part/TAPA-PSYGEIOU-FORD-FIESTA-SKODA-FAVORIT-8439/e2088439