Scout Haldex Differential Noise

[fr1nklyn]

17 hours ago, Dellbert said:

Was it like it when you picked it up or after a few miles ?

I think yes, but it's intermittent and initially I was focused to notice any noises like the one from the diff bearing which was changed.

 

17 hours ago, Dellbert said:

Did they drop the whole rear cradle like i did  (see my pics )?

 

Are the driveshaft inner joints tight  ?

 

I think they had dropped the whole rear cradle because the suspension alignment required a lot of adjustment. And I'm sure the rear had almost perfect alignment because I checked it with the front less than an year ago when front bushings were changed.

 

I'm not sure I can check that inner joints are tight? 😅 My DIY skills are on a level to change the oil, pads and rotors  

 

17 hours ago, Dellbert said:

What exactly was done to the diff (which bearings and how many ) ?

 

Is there oil in it  (diff and haldex ) ?

 

I'm pretty sure there is fresh oil in both otherwise none should be inside and horrible noises will be noticed? The shipping company required oils to be removed from the diff before sending it to the Diff Rebuild Workshop. Then the same was send back to the local garage with no oils once a tapered roller bearing was changed - AFAIK same as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRV3e54nKZg because I had send it to them before the rebuild and once the rebuild was done, they confirmed the same bearing was worn out on my car.

 

The differential noise which sounded similar to bad wheel bearing but louder has gone after the rebuild. So I suspect that something hasn't been fitted properly because I hear metal noises from time to time over bumps. Like something is loose..

Also when I cornering on uneven roads, the car is moved to the left and right similar to the experience when shocks absorbers are shots. I think this experience got worse after the alignment, which is strange.. I was inside the case during the alignment and was looking at the screen showing the measurements before and after the suspension alignment, and I'm pretty sure I left the shop with all four wheels/sides in green.

 

[fr1nklyn]

15 hours ago, J.R. said:

I looked closely at mine today to see if the diff side cover can be removed in situ, it will be very tight if it does come out and access to the upper bolts is very restricted, I have decided that its better for me to remove the whole cradle as others have said.

 

As can be seen by Fr1nklyns experience the more a garage has to remove to do a job the greater the chance of them getting something wrong.

 

That goes for us DIY'ers as well but its easier, for me at least, to cope with my failings than to pay to find those of others and all the grief and denial that follows.

 

I'm not that brave and skilled, otherwise I would do it myself. Also AFAIK, changing the diff bearings requires some adjustment to specific gaps' requirements. 

 

I think the local garage which removed and placed back the diff made a mistake somewhere, and I'll send the car back to them. Unfortunately that will happen after 2 weeks, because I have to travel today. I don't trust the car and will travel with my wife's Hyundai..

[Dellbert]

11 minutes ago, fr1nklyn said:

I think yes, but it's intermittent and initially I was focused to notice any noises like the one from the diff bearing which was changed.

 

 

I think they had dropped the whole rear cradle because the suspension alignment required a lot of adjustment. And I'm sure the rear had almost perfect alignment because I checked it with the front less than an year ago when front bushings were changed.

 

I'm not sure I can check that inner joints are tight? 😅 My DIY skills are on a level to change the oil, pads and rotors  

 

 

I'm pretty sure there is fresh oil in both otherwise none should be inside and horrible noises will be noticed? The shipping company required oils to be removed from the diff before sending it to the Diff Rebuild Workshop. Then the same was send back to the local garage with no oils once a tapered roller bearing was changed - AFAIK same as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRV3e54nKZg because I had send it to them before the rebuild and once the rebuild was done, they confirmed the same bearing was worn out on my car.

 

The differential noise which sounded similar to bad wheel bearing but louder has gone after the rebuild. So I suspect that something hasn't been fitted properly because I hear metal noises from time to time over bumps. Like something is loose..

Also when I cornering on uneven roads, the car is moved to the left and right similar to the experience when shocks absorbers are shots. I think this experience got worse after the alignment, which is strange.. I was inside the case during the alignment and was looking at the screen showing the measurements before and after the suspension alignment, and I'm pretty sure I left the shop with all four wheels/sides in green.

 

 

Cradle is loose  or differential is loose in the cradle .

[fr1nklyn]

1 minute ago, Dellbert said:

 

Cradle is loose  or differential is loose in the cradle .

 

I really would like this to be the cause..

[J.R.]

If it is then it will be the garage which did the alignment.  You watched them so what did they actually adjust ?

[fr1nklyn]

29 minutes ago, J.R. said:

If it is then it will be the garage which did the alignment.

I think something was already loose when I left the local garage but found it out on the next day while driving to the alignment garage. And the got more loose/broken after the alignment or after I drove the car longer and harder.

 

I didn’t want to drive the car a lot before an alignment is done.

 

33 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You watched them so what did they actually adjust ?

I couldn’t watch them because I had to be inside the car and turn steering wheel until tires reach some green arrows and values on a screen in front of the car.

[fr1nklyn]

An update from my side:

- A friend of mine left the car to the local garage and they read the errors first( I forgot to mention that car also had shown ESP error on the dash last time I drove it)

- The error appeared to be triggered by communication issue with the ABS module which seem to be caused by water inside the module.. Neither diff repair shop or local garage had water cleaned the diff, but honestly speaking this car has seen a lot of snow, water and mud.. I bought Scout for this after all  I’m going with it for skiing and mountains for camping.

- The noise from the suspension will be tracked in the next couple of days, but as you guys suspected initially, it seems that something is loose, or got loose during the alignment.

- I’m attaching pics from the wet ABS module chip.. I will call different places which repair such modules and provide some warranty.

[J.R.]

Do you not mean the Haldex controller?

[fr1nklyn]

5 hours ago, J.R. said:

Do you not mean the Haldex controller?

Yes, I was sleeping I guess.. The AWD module, not ABS.. the one with p/n 0CQ 907 554 H

I was wondering why no similar issues appeared in google when I searched for it

[Ootohere]

You should have maybe searched Google Image, and use the word BRISKODA in the search.

Then you might see a picture from a thread on the forum.  That applies to many searches involving servicing and maintenance and repairs.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509874-haldex-controller-fault-02248

 

[fr1nklyn]

Thanks @toot, yes I have even done an extra mile with maintenance of the car - much more often than needed( as cheaper preventive action 😞

* Changed the diff oil on 100k km(60k miles)

* Haldex oil on every 50k km(30k or 2-3 years) together with the DSG oil(wet clutch DQ250)

* I even clean the pump, its filter and housing when doing the haldex oil + changed the 2x oil rings and 2x bolts of the pump which are sold as a service kit

But the AWD control module itself is not serviceable - it’s a simple metal box with a chip inside, which if not sealed properly from the factory, does such issues.. 😕 

 

There is a place in my city Sofia where some guys repair ABS modules. They said to send my AWD module to them to check can it be repaired or not.

 

0CQ 907 554 H is my module P/N. And I found that it’s superseded by newer version 0CQ 907 554 J. If someone has access to such data and can confirm this, would be really great 🙏

[fr1nklyn]

Ok, I called the skoda dealer today, 0CQ 907 554 H is superseded by 0CQ 907 554 J and is ~€550.
Mine is already sent for repair but if the guys who are about to do it said it’s not possible, I will buy one. That price isn’t that bad for a brand new module.

 

Hopefully I will understand soon what’s the case with the suspension noise

[Dellbert]

Diff back in after rebuild  test drive in the morning    happy days 

[Dellbert]

So has anyonyone had success in their rebuild ?

[J.R.]

Why not start with your experience?

[Dellbert]

i have

[J.R.]

You did not use the past tense so I thought the test drive was the next morning,  how is the car driving ?

[Dellbert]

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

You did not use the past tense so I thought the test drive was the next morning,  how is the car driving ?

posted wednesday  test drive Thursday  so didnt need past tense

posted how to get the cradle out but most on here wont have the gear to get the bearings out of the diff

i wouldnt just change one bearing wear is present on all the ones i could get

Aus numbers match up

replacing rear springs is tricky and if i do another i would make some long bolts for the cradle (studs and nuts )

wouldnt try to take diff out without the cradle  .

realistically next one should be out in an easy day  and the same back in  plus a day sorting the diff

So anyone else done it ?

[J.R.]

So I was correct, you hadn't driven it and you still have not said how it is now that you have.

 

Asking if anyone has had success could mean you haven't.

[captain uncertain]

 

FYI – my car is booked in for the 25th July but a 10 working day turn around for the diff rebuild (once it's out and at Bexhill people), so all being well I will be driving it middle of August. I'll endeavour to find out what the rebuild entailed (assuming successful) and how it drives. Fingers crossed :O)

[Dellbert]

29 minutes ago, captain uncertain said:

 

FYI – my car is booked in for the 25th July but a 10 working day turn around for the diff rebuild (once it's out and at Bexhill people), so all being well I will be driving it middle of August. I'll endeavour to find out what the rebuild entailed (assuming successful) and how it drives. Fingers crossed :O)

make sure all the bearings are changed is all i can say as there was wear evident on all the bearings  .

Just now, Dellbert said:

make sure all the bearings are changed is all i can say as there was wear evident on all the bearings  .

interested in the costings if you are ok to share that ..

[J.R.]

Is your diff now running silently and no other issues Dellbert? - You still havn't said.

[Dellbert]

54 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Is your diff now running silently and no other issues Dellbert? - You still havn't said.

its perfect or it would be out again by now ..

[captain uncertain]

On 17/07/2023 at 15:51, captain uncertain said:

 

FYI – my car is booked in for the 25th July but a 10 working day turn around for the diff rebuild (once it's out and at Bexhill people), so all being well I will be driving it middle of August. I'll endeavour to find out what the rebuild entailed (assuming successful) and how it drives. Fingers crossed :O)

 

 

23 hours ago, Dellbert said:

make sure all the bearings are changed is all i can say as there was wear evident on all the bearings  .

interested in the costings if you are ok to share that ..

 

 

Yes – very keen to have all the bearings checked/replaced. I've been quoted £400 for the refurb/rebuild. £500 for the getting it out and putting it back in (and I'm hoping that will include fitting a new rear coupling as that's knackered (and I have a new one from autodoc). All this will be mid-August at the earliest. Thanks.

 

 

 

[fr1nklyn]

@captain uncertainSounds great. I also had to change the rear coupling(original one on 100k miles was knackered).