12 hours ago, DieselMonte said:

What Knob said that? 

Most of that is probably coming from it being run with low fuel (and old fuel) for a bit. 

Should be about 20l of fresh fuel in it now. Have been chucking Redex down it too to try clear things out.

Points are connected as the old ones were, did take photos to help remember what wire goes where.

 

That filter is literally weeks old but considering how cheap they are I think I'll just keep changing them until that ****e is cleared out of the tank.

 

One more thing, forgot to include pictures of the new lights in a previous post.

Initial plan was to hide them behind the covers when I didn't need them, but these are far too big for that.

My bad for taking a chance on ones on marketplace. Probably still going to use them however.

I think they do look correct on this sort of car. I am a sucker for yellow lamps on any car however.

Anyone have any opinions on these lights?

 

Perhaps set a little too low - even for fogs? Yellow is supposed to be better for reduced back-reflection, so probably ideal for use. By low, I mean the beam angle.

Edited 13 November, 20223 yr by Warrior193
added note.

How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank? with the amount of crud collecting in that new filter, perhaps a thorough wash out and treatment (A la Rob's Quatro in NZ) would be beneficial.   

Any luck in getting spark back?

4 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Any luck in getting spark back?

Well done, what did it turn out to be?

Edited 13 November, 20223 yr by Warrior193

1 minute ago, Warrior193 said:

Any luck in getting spark back?

Still no spark, fairly sure it's the coil gone bad since I can see its getting power, but there's nothing going out of it.

7 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank? with the amount of crud collecting in that new filter, perhaps a thorough wash out and treatment (A la Rob's Quatro in NZ) would be beneficial.   

Probably wouldn't be terribly hard especially given this is a fwd model, no 4wd gubbins in the way. Don't want to drop the tank especially now its got fuel in it. Fuel filter is doing its job seemingly.

May install a second filter in the bay to see what **** it collects.

17 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Perhaps set a little too low - even for fogs? Yellow is supposed to be better for reduced back-reflection, so probably ideal for use. By low, I mean the beam angle.

Fair point

They are literally just wedged in place for the purposes of taking a photo. Not got Around to wiring them in yet.

I am suspicious about you using the test flash function on the timing light to test the coil, it would have been better to have used a multi-meter set to voltage and checked the voltage on either side of the ballast resistor with the points closed, also checking the resistance of the ballast resistor which could be the faulty item although in that case the engine would start but die when you release the key.

 

You say you tested the coil on the second terminal, the wire that goes to the distributor and there was no voltage, was the wire connected to the distributor, if it was and the points were closed (more likely than not) then there would not be any voltage present.

 

Had you by any chance removed and refitted the coil leads before the engine died? Running a ballasted coil on a 12v feed for more than a minute or so will cause the coil to overheat, normally misfiring but it could short a winding and burn out.

This justy is at my house not at the farm hence why I used a timing light, all I had at hand.

I hadn't touched the coil before it died.

I did change the plugs and clean up the contacts on the cap and rotor before however. Was driving it like that for a bit.

New Coil arrived. Opted for a Lucas "Sport" coil.

Swapped all over and threw the new one in and...

It Fired right up.

Timing is almost definitely off and there's quite a delay on the throttle, but just happy it's running again.

Done just about everything I can now to give the best spark possible. 

Need to change the timing belt and set valve lash not sure which I should do first though.

Might be worth getting this out to the farm and doing the rest of the work there. 

Is well on the way to being roadworthy. Been a nightmare getting a logbook for it but I'm not letting that stop me.

1. I'm not saying the lack of HT was the coil, but the old blue coil certainly wasn't helping (it was the coil )
2. If by "lash" you mean the tappet clearance, then I'd do that first if it can be done cold, but if it needs doing hot I'd do the cam belt and cam timing first.

According to the sticker on the bonnet, it's done cold. Even gives the proper clearances.

Set timing today. Helped a lot.

Carb Rebuild kit should be here tomorrow or Friday.

 

4 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

According to the sticker on the bonnet, it's done cold.

Yeah, that's convincing.

Did you order a low impedance ballasted coil and have you refitted the ballast resistor and wires exactly as they were?

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Did you order a low impedance ballasted coil and have you refitted the ballast resistor and wires exactly as they were?

Yes and yes.

Carb Rebuild kit came in today so started on that.

Carb came off fairly easy.

Fuel bowls got some scuzz down it.

All seemed pretty clean but the gaskets are dire.

All apart tonight, soaking bits overnight to soften the muck. Might get it in one piece tomorrow evening.

Carburetor has been rebuilt and it is back together but I've messed something up bad.

Went to start it and it immediately tried to overrev.

Wasn't sure what was going on so on advice of friends I took the top apart to check the float and all was moving free and set right, so far as I can tell its all OK.

First video is what happens if you start it without Choke.

 

Second video is what happens when you start it with choke. (Numbers are out of order, oops.)

Took the carburettor off and checked the bottom gaskets incase there was a leak there, all seems well there too.

I CAN get it to run and idle by pulling the vacuum for the second barrel. The second (big) barrel on this is operated on vacuum. Throttle cables been disconnected the whole time so the small barrel shouldn't be moving. 

This video shows it running with the second carb disconnected. I moved the second barrel by hand to see how it'd react.

 

I think it's important to not that I can choke it out by covering the intake with my hands, makes me think there are no leaks where air is getting in.

Last video I recorded in the middle of things, switched the ignition on and off to see if it would run for any length like that. Again, throttle off, no small child in the cabin pressing the throttle etc.

Safe to say I'm pretty stumped at the minute.

Definitely getting the impression it's something very simple and very stupid I've caused without realising.

 

Throttle return springs? I omitted that once after refitting the engine in my Cooper S rally car. 😒 - Late at night. On an open exhaust extractor.

Are the throttle butterflys closing properly at idle? 

I would say that its a lack of vacuum to the actuator that holds the secondary barrel closed, if it is vacuum operated then it will have a spring that opens the butterfly opposed by manifold vacuum which holds it closed during the initial stage of the loud pedal stroke.

 

Or maybe you have got a spring or linkage misplaced.

Got that part figured out, dodgy vacuum line pulling open the big butterfly. Thanks for the replies though.

Had it running since and its better in some aspects but worse in others.

Think the idle mix screw is off now.

Idling very high no matter what you do to the throttle screw. Even with the throttle cable off.

Throttle cable itself is being very awkward too, can't get it tight enough now. Test is just over 2 weeks away and if that's not bad enough, I'm after getting a message saying the test for the white car is exactly the week before the justy.

28 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

Think the idle mix screw is off now.

I'd not be surprised; you need to reset the idle stop, idle mixture and main mixture after a rebuild.

5 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

I'd not be surprised; you need to reset the idle stop, idle mixture and main mixture after a rebuild.

Would high revs indicate its too rich then?

 

On the one hand I'm happy it's getting there.

On the other it's quite stressful trying to get 2 cars through test one after the other. 

You cannot reset the main mixture on a venturi carburettor without changing jets and even then its a juggling act between main jet(s), air corrector jet, emulsion tube, venturi, accelarator pump bleed jet, none of which need touching after a carb rebuild, only if you have breathed on the engine.

 

Idle bleed screw yes and what you should do before stripping the carb is count how many turns to screw it fully home gently and use that as a baseline setting after the rebuild, probably too late to say that now for DieselMonté.

 

High revs will be either one of the butterflies not closing properly, did you disturb or remove them from the spindles? If so they will need recentralising, or you have an air leak into the manifold somewhere.

 

From what you have said I would guess the latter.

High revs is a weak mixture or more precisely an excess of air, probably a vacuum leak, even if you screwed the idle mixture adjustment fully in the revs would not climb excessively, it's either the butterfly not seating or an air leak.

 

Does this carb have an idle bypass volume screw?

Not sure on it Jr

Only screws on it that I can see are the idle mix and throttle screw.

Didn't remove them from their spindles. The small butterfly is controlled by the cable and the big one opens on vacuum over a certain rpm. (Sounds like poor man's vTec when it kick in)

 

Check that both butterflys are held closed and that you dont have the throttle screw holding open the primary one, if they are both closed or as near as dammit for the primary one then you have an air leak downstream, check the carb to manifold gasket and all the vacuum tappings, clamp the brake servo pipe to eliminate that.

 

I reckon its connected to whatever you assembled wrong in regards to the secondary choke actuator, my belief is that vacuum will close the butterfly and a spring will open it under absence of vacuum - mid to full throttle, something else must hold it closed for starting though.

 

So on reflection I reckon the secondary choke is opening slightly when it should be firmly closed, look down the venturi while it is (fast) idling using a torch, try forcing it closed by hand.

Had the carb off this evening for hopefully the final time.

Found the High idle problem, one of the springs that holds it closed wasn't seated right.

Also checked the idle screw and set it to what was recommended on old forum posts.

5 and 5/8 turns from lightly seated.

Had it out driving and it's finally running decent. NCT next Saturday.

Since the Monte is temporarily out of action and I couldn't get the vrs sorted it seems like I'll be relying on this to get into work and back this week.