Thanks, assuming I have above, what would I need to connect to what, are you able to match the numbers? Explain like I'm five years old Like 1 > 1, 2 > 2, 3 >3? 4 > ? etc. I think once I'd have it then it would be straight forward, but I just want to have some kind of confirmation if possible.

 

 

sorry, I can't do that, especially from a photo.

You must seek professional help from the store where you will buy the amplifier. There they should help you with the wiring and how to connect it.

On 13/03/2024 at 16:21, Felix2021 said:

Not only that, but also helps with better control of the speaker, thus providing better transients, tighter bass etc.

Nope. Read the AES papers (on their website) - plenty of info, unfortunately paid per paper but worth.

On 03/04/2024 at 09:21, Felix2021 said:

Actually those speakers are very capable, and it's relatively easy to achieve strong, deep bass in car due to it's size (low volume/low amount of air that needs to be moved).

In my case another improvement been brought be adding external amplifier. Used Axton 592DSP.

Cannot find my (rough) measurements, but by ear it goes below 30Hz, which is enough for me (mostly listening to rock and metal, so not much going on below this). It's also loud enough, and can be tweaked by using DSP in the amp.

 

Edit: found measurement screenshot. This is done using Android Audio Tool, and never learned how to make really good measurements, so it doesn't have any smoothing, it's very raw. Measurement taken using UMIK-1 mic.

 

As you can see it can go really low, and by tweaking amp's DSP result can be really good.

I prefer it this way, as most subwoofers doesn't really give you that quality of bass, that control (which in case of Focal's combined with Axton is really great, even metal that according to many is recorded poorly, sounds really great). Subwoofer will give you quantity, which might be desirable with some genres of music.

You actually know that the measurement above is non-gated which means it provides little useful information and real frequency/phase response would be different from shown? And when you gate it its going to be with a gating frequency of at least 3.5Khz so again, a bit irrelevant?

On 10/04/2024 at 12:02, Ipwrslv said:

Thanks, assuming I have above, what would I need to connect to what, are you able to match the numbers? Explain like I'm five years old Like 1 > 1, 2 > 2, 3 >3? 4 > ? etc. I think once I'd have it then it would be straight forward, but I just want to have some kind of confirmation if possible.

 

 

 

Hum, without wiring diagrams from both sides it's impossible to know. If you want to do it yourself be prepared for cutting and soldering, because I would say it's not 100% plug and play. 

On 11/04/2024 at 21:21, MP1983 said:

Nope.

On 11/04/2024 at 21:24, MP1983 said:

You actually know that the measurement above is non-gated which means it provides little useful information and real frequency/phase response would be different from shown?

Pass. We've done this already on some other topic...

On 10/04/2024 at 12:02, Ipwrslv said:

Thanks, assuming I have above, what would I need to connect to what, are you able to match the numbers? Explain like I'm five years old Like 1 > 1, 2 > 2, 3 >3? 4 > ? etc. I think once I'd have it then it would be straight forward, but I just want to have some kind of confirmation if possible.

 

 

For anyone interested, as I suspected it was pretty straight forward once I received the cables.

As for sound quality on standard speakers with added Kenwood KSC-SW11 Subwoofer (can be seen under the seat) I can see the improvement in general quality and clearance, bass has more punch and rock/metal sounds more clear & alive than before, Sepultura Roots Bloody Roots doesn't sound like one ugly sound anymore and you can actually recognize different instruments which was my goal and that particular track proved me this Pioneer actually made a difference.

Of course its not as good as replacing standard speakers (my next step) but, its good improvement for the price and very little time and effort needed (50min total).

i am thinking of buying this amp

https://www.ldlc.com/en/product/PB00208200.html

Focal Impulse 4.320

what do you think ?

From the reviews it seems to be quite good for the money, however lacks DSP. In theory that is not an issues, as you have sort-of DSP in the infotaiment.

I went with Axton with DSP, which was slightly more expensive than Focal. It sounds really, really good, however it might be developing some issue. Since some time it's giving high pitch noise on morning start-up, which is coming from the amp itself, not the speakers. So am not really sure if i should recommend it or not

2 hours ago, Felix2021 said:

From the reviews it seems to be quite good for the money, however lacks DSP. In theory that is not an issues, as you have sort-of DSP in the infotaiment.

I went with Axton with DSP, which was slightly more expensive than Focal. It sounds really, really good, however it might be developing some issue. Since some time it's giving high pitch noise on morning start-up, which is coming from the amp itself, not the speakers. So am not really sure if i should recommend it or not

 

Thanks for the answer. I've written that I don't want to spend any more money on Octavia's sound, but as you can see, I'm getting caught up in crazy thoughts.

To be honest I don't know what to do.
In my personal car (my wife's), a 2016 Polo, I just changed the speakers in the doors and the sound improved a lot. I actually put in cheaper speakers, the Pioneer TS-a1600c, but the change was very intense (for the better). I expected something like that in Octavia, but it didn't happen.

 

On 18/04/2024 at 08:57, Felix2021 said:

From the reviews it seems to be quite good for the money, however lacks DSP. In theory that is not an issues, as you have sort-of DSP in the infotaiment.

I went with Axton with DSP, which was slightly more expensive than Focal. It sounds really, really good, however it might be developing some issue. Since some time it's giving high pitch noise on morning start-up, which is coming from the amp itself, not the speakers. So am not really sure if i should recommend it or not

Hi. I'm thinking also of upgrading my front speakers. I also have the Axton A592 and an extra Emphaser EBS111A Subwoofer wich I find awesome. I did cut the base from the speakers just because the subwoofer can deliver. I do what t a bit more volume and why not, better tweeters. With this setup I've notice that after going over 70% volume it doesn't make any difference. So between 70-100 it's the same volume. I reckon it's the Amp that limits the volume because of the speakers and that's why I wanna upgrade. 

 

First of all, I did hooked the extra line of the Amp to the battery with a fuse for more power but I didn't notice any changes.Maybe because of the 20W original speakers, the Amp doesn't use so much power anyway. 

 

Second question is about Focal Isww165. They are 2 ohm !. The original speakers are 4 ohm. I know I can set the Amp to 2ohm but I want to leave the rear as it is at the moment. And that's 4 ohm. So I cannot install the Focals???

 

Third. I saw that you did some measurements on your DSP. Can you share your configuration. I did set up my DSP by ear. 

 

Is anyone who has gone the Audiotec Fischer route able to help me with any of the following? Hoping to go with a MATCH 6 UP

 

• Which harness works? I can see both the PP-VAG and the PP-PAC92B recommended in different places
• I note that the amps run in both low and high power mode - has anyone run the wiring for high-power, and was this fairly straightforward? Is there an accessible grommet?
• Presumably the Canton amp (which I don't have) requires low level inputs - Do the harnesses pull from the high level or low level, and is this something I can code if not already output?
• Has anyone used a Match with the Focal VW speakers?

 

Sorry for the wall of questions, there seems to be very little information on the actual wiring - On the edge of paying for erWIN access for the wiring diagram.

 

On 18/04/2024 at 06:22, Giannis20 said:

i am thinking of buying this amp

https://www.ldlc.com/en/product/PB00208200.html

Focal Impulse 4.320

what do you think ?

Only do it if using stock speakers. Otherwise you need an amp with DSP, the incoming head unit signal is heavily equalised / tuned to the OEM speakers. I have with AMP with super fancy Flax Focal drivers and it sounds worse than OEM. 

On 26/06/2024 at 03:24, bdavbdav said:

Is anyone who has gone the Audiotec Fischer route able to help me with any of the following? Hoping to go with a MATCH 6 UP

 

• Which harness works? I can see both the PP-VAG and the PP-PAC92B recommended in different places
• I note that the amps run in both low and high power mode - has anyone run the wiring for high-power, and was this fairly straightforward? Is there an accessible grommet?
• Presumably the Canton amp (which I don't have) requires low level inputs - Do the harnesses pull from the high level or low level, and is this something I can code if not already output?
• Has anyone used a Match with the Focal VW speakers?

 

Sorry for the wall of questions, there seems to be very little information on the actual wiring - On the edge of paying for erWIN access for the wiring diagram.

 

I used the Focal 4.320 amp with Flax focals, sounds terrible. The incoming signal is EQ’s for the OEM speakers. I used Focals and Match 8 on BMW G20 (Match 6 is fine for Skoda) and equalised the incoming signal and tuned by ear with some basic tutorials and it was awesome. Short version - Match is the way to go for easy integration and ability to sort de-EQ the incoming signal easily then tune. 

I think thats my plan. 

 

I've got a Match 5.4, the Match sub (cant remember the name - the square one that fits in the tray under the boot floor!) and the loom sat in a basket deliberating hitting the go button. The only bit I'm worried about is how the centre channel works, if it comes straight off the factory HU on the loom or if I have to do some modification - as the amp only has 5CH (i.e. Front, Rear, Sub).

 

Also trying to work out the power situation - I don't really want to track a cable to the battery, as finding a path seems quite complicated, and there is a fuse box right next to the installation spot with 40A fuse slots hanging out - The user guide says run a cable straight to the battery fused at 30A (I think the device is 30A sustained, peak 40A) - I'm not sure why a 30A fused circuit off the fusebox would be any different. Does anyone have any thoughts on this (or indeed the centre)?

Sorry another question from me - how are people securing the 165s? Can the rivets included in the box be used? I'd rather not buy a rivnut tool!

On 04/07/2024 at 23:15, bdavbdav said:

Sorry another question from me - how are people securing the 165s? Can the rivets included in the box be used? I'd rather not buy a rivnut tool!

 

i am afraid you have to use a rivet tool. There is no other way to fix speakers at the doors.

Αt least I could not install them with screws even though I tried, because the sheet metal around the perimeter has configurations, it is not flat to put some kind of metal nut from the back side.

Thanks @Giannis20 - were you able to do it with regular rivets, or did you have to use a rivnut? AIUI, the holes in the door are rather larger than those in the speakers. 

On 08/07/2024 at 14:38, bdavbdav said:

Thanks @Giannis20 - were you able to do it with regular rivets, or did you have to use a rivnut? AIUI, the holes in the door are rather larger than those in the speakers. 

 

Just regular aluminum rivets, with a rivet tool.

 

Edited 10 July, 20241 yr by Giannis20

@Filternz do you have the export of the input EQ you ended up with? Are you just flat on the output EQ?

On 18/03/2024 at 17:29, Giannis20 said:

Finally i made the installation. 

 

the process is straightforward. 

For the mid-bass range speakers the only matter is the connector. 

 

 

 

I bought 2 connectors with 4 pins to make the installation easy. 

 

I removed the pins from the original connector and i istalled them in the new one. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The new connector in its place:

 

 

 

 

And some sound insulation

 

 

 

 

Finally, I put a soft material around the speaker to fill the gap between the speaker and the door cover.

 

 

 

 

I still have no idea about the performance of the speakers. I'll work on them for a few days and then come back.

 

Hi - sorry to resurrecting this old post. I'm researching to upgrade my sound system to the Focal ones. I'm kinda stuck to find the connector you posted above. I wondered if you can share when you bought them or the keywords to find them? Thanks. 

4 hours ago, cresk said:

 

Hi - sorry to resurrecting this old post. I'm researching to upgrade my sound system to the Focal ones. I'm kinda stuck to find the connector you posted above. I wondered if you can share when you bought them or the keywords to find them? Thanks. 

 

 

Hi, 

the 4-pin connector has a code: 4D0972704    

the 2-pin connector has a code: 1J0971972 

Edited 10 November, 20241 yr by Giannis20

17 hours ago, Giannis20 said:

 

 

Hi, 

the 4-pin connector has a code: 4D0972704    

the 2-pin connector has a code: 1J0971972 

Cheers mate. Where did you find these info? 

Hi guys,

Starting to think about upgrading as well ... just a question: do you know if there is a quadlock pinout printed on the infotainment unit? Checked various amplifier and all of them have different wiring diagrams to connect to the main infotainment unit. 

Cheers.

18 hours ago, Mario_Delgado said:

Hi guys,

Starting to think about upgrading as well ... just a question: do you know if there is a quadlock pinout printed on the infotainment unit? Checked various amplifier and all of them have different wiring diagrams to connect to the main infotainment unit. 

Cheers.

I believe it’s available from EKTA (sort of - not as a cohesive pinout - as PIN numbers!). It’s not printed on the device sadly. 
 

If it’s speaker wires you’re after, they’re thankfully fairly obvious as the same as other generations. Having made a loom first time round, I’d highly recommend just buying an iso harness and using that.