48 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

2) leave it few months more so the whole system will boil for good in summer and do the work in my birthplace where i have space to work and garden hose.

Do it there and do it thoroughly.

These are my notes for the Midget but you can adapt them for your use and car.

 

Procedure:

a) clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner or Holts Speedflush

 

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator, start with engine block drain plug hole

 

c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out

 

d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a really good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [these can be very difficult to fully drain and get all the bits out of, keep turning and shaking to alternately get the residue from the inlet and outlet] 

• flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean

 

e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

 

f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal

 

g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system

 

h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine.

 

 

Flushing and reverse-flushing:

 

I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid.

 

You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage.

 

If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay).

 

For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car.

 

For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals.

 

On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it.

 

I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate.

 

For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment.

 

After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill.

 

Different products have different instructions of use.

• Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/
• STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/
• Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804
• Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/

 

OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

 

 

 

55 minutes ago, nta16 said:

No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit

 

The radiator in Felicia (VW group) has no pressure cap, it's "closed circuit" as they say it here.

Refill of coolant only via the expansion tank.

I expect you could adapt an adapter to fit.

 

Covered also in Wynn's Radiator Flush (and probably others) instructions - "Add to the cooling system via the expansion tank if part of the system circuit (2 hoses: out and return), or directly into the radiator if a single hose overflow tank is fitted." - https://wynns2021.wpengine.com/products/TDS/W56064_TDS_EN.pdf

 

I wonder it's better to add the Radiator Flush into the existing coolant and rinse (after let it work) or remove it, add tap water with the RF and then (after let it work) rinse?

Those are not the manufacturer's instructions with any I listed.  ETA: that I know of as I have only used a couple them, I doubt the others are much different but I have not checked.

Edited 24 May, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA:

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

Those are not the manufacturer's instructions with any I listed.

 

I have "broke" many factory rules so far.

The repair shops here grouching if you ask from them such a detailed task, they prefer the ''come to empty the old coolant, add the new, pay and go" procedure.

3 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The repair shops here grouching if you ask from them such a detailed task, they prefer the ''come to empty the old coolant, add the new, pay and go" procedure.

Isn't that normal though?

Normal for GR.

You know the "ασε ρε που θα καθομαι εγω να ασχολουμαι" style.

I would prefer the "i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I would prefer the "i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

That would require an attitude sadly missing from many that work in the motor trade dealing with the general public.  On the other side so many customers only want the cheapest job done, the minimum required not what is better or even better still and perhaps preventative.

 

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

"i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

some people will do that BUUUUT the right conditions have to be met

Liqui Moly says add the product in the existing coolant, i was thinking to flush what i have, add tap sidtilled water with the LM product and then flush it.

 

Weird but i see two of them in the market.

 

https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/5/1/5189_Pro_Line_K__hlerreiniger_1l_4994.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal

 

and 

 

https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/3/3/3320_K__hlerreiniger_300ml_4f62.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal

 

 

 

 

I'd put a bet on with myself you'd be interested in the Liqui Moly, German company for German car.  I have no idea about the differences (if any) in the two products as I can barely read English let alone German, it may just be just different packaging for different markets but you would have to check with the manufacturer or get the marketing or safety data sheets for each, sometimes suppliers provide them as downloads, and see if or what the difference is.

 

Whichever product you chose follow the manufacturer's instructions unless you contact them and they say you can do differently - you know you can get unwanted results messing with and mixing chemicals.

  

Edited 25 May, 20242 yr by nta16

19 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I'd put a bet on with myself you'd be interested in the Liqui Moly, German company for German car. 

  

 

No, it's because is very poplular here, we also have USA, Spanish, French, Japanese products etc.

 

In their website have the two versions.

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#8369

300ml

removes oil and greasy residue
chemical conversion of lime
does not contain acids or alkali
compatible with antifreeze
neutral behavior on rubber and plastics
neutralizes acids
disperses sludge

 

and in Workshop series the

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-radiator-cleaner-p000196.html#5189

1 ltr.

removes oil and grease-based contaminants
chemical conversion of lime
does not contain acids or alkali
compatible with antifreeze
good material compatibility
neutral behavior on rubber and plastics
neutralizes acids
disperses sludge

One is pro line the other is normal use.

Choose the pro line but be careful with the instructions 

Liqui Moly isn't as popular over here.

 

One is for more regular, greater use by someone like a professional or someone with a collection of vehicles, as lots of owners may have.

 

I think, don't know as I've not looked, they are both the same just packaged differently, have a look at the marketing sheets. contact the manufacturer., see below for what might need explanation.

 

"Pro"

1 l is sufficient for up to 50 l of coolant

 

"not pro"

300 ml is sufficient for 10 l of coolant (dosage 1:33). 

compatible with all conventional coolant additives and antifreezes (with the exception of “low conductivity” coolants)

 

Maybe the Pro-line is for repair shops, one can car do the job for many cars so with one can can charge many customers.

The other if for 1 maybe 2 vehicles at most.

Yes that's how I see or as I "Pro" for owners who has a few or fleet of vehicles, ordinary families can have a small fleet of vehicles.

 

But then look at the quantities again, "Pro" does 50 litres of coolant with 1 litre, yet "non-Pro" does 10 litres of coolant with 330 ml, unless I am missing something the figures don't add up unless there is a mistake or missing information.  Just like VW and their numbers nothing is straight forward.

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

"Pro" does 50 litres of coolant with 1 litre

It's more concentrated duh

So i am buying the non Pro?

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

It's more concentrated duh

That would be the assumption but it is not stated as with the "non Pro" ratio and I put the post for a reason that may or may not have escaped your linear engineering thinking, there's more to navigating interactions with people than the very straight forward engineering way which hopefully you will learn when you're interactive with more people and you experience more of life.

 

Now prove your assumption, as you would have to in class and work.  😁

 

ETA: if you want to of course, you are young so I mustn't, can't and wouldn't force you to, in a work situation it would be an entirely different matter, reactions and obligations different, a lot of fun might be had or taken at your expense.  😉 😄

 

But this is just the internet.  😆

 

 

Edited 26 May, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA:

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

So i am buying the non Pro?

Seems suited to your wants and needs.

 

The following video was on my YT Homepage and is just a good example, it obviously isn't specific to a Felicia but as I commented, to me, is a very good video, well explained and presented and covers checks and further checks many forget or forget to include in a video.

 

Yes it does include that kit but other stuff can be used and it's the principles that matter rather specifics. -

 

   

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

was on my YT Homepage

 

As ''recommended" ?

 

@Thefeliciahacker shows how much time a driver needs only for the Heater Core to pull out. He Is speechless till few minutes of the end of the video.

 

 

 

Add the time to install it back plus time to add coolant, bleed air out etc.

55 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Shows how much time a driver needs only for the Heater Core to pull out

So what - it takes as long as it takes, you are not paying for your own labour (with money at least) and hopefully if you do a good thorough job and keep proper maintenance of the system you will only do it once.  At the same time you can clean, lubricate and replace other associated parts at the same time.  As I live in England where you can sometimes get four seasons in a day I wait for three consultative sunny dry days to a full whole system thorough clean that will involve water and being outside, this also (hopefully) allows for any unexpected that might turn up and for anytime(s) I can't be arsed to faff around with a car.  If I get the job done in a morning/afternoon/day or less than three days, which I should, then great.  I never worry about how quickly anyone else can do this work, or any other car work, particularly paid professionals that wouldn't do such a thorough job and possibly not even a good job, possibly breaking something else and not telling you about it, and I don't work to the highest standards on a car they're not important enough.

 

Edited 26 May, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

So what - it takes as long as it takes

 

This is in Felicia, the A goes to the engine block and the B goes to the thermostat.

 

 

it's absolutely impossible for my working in the side of the road to reach the end of the A, even @Thefeliciahacker didn't do it which works in his backyard.

Except if a loose the upper end of the hose and spill coolant in the whole area beside the battery.

 

I have found another photo from that messy previous expansion tank.

 

 

 

Today i have taken some other photos plus a City Traffic test to check the Fuel Consumption with the new modified air filter box.

The new isn't 100% clean, still has some residues inside, not something significant compared with the previous but still has.

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

it's absolutely impossible for my working in the side of the road to reach the end

You put you were going somewhere else on holiday in the mountains, I wasn't thinking of you doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, as I put I would not fart about doing any work on a car in such circumstances so would not you suggest anyone else should.  Just to make it clear again, I would not fart about doing any work doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, if you choose or think you have to that is your concern.