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Auxiliary radiator fan in Felicia, worth it?

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Gentlemen, after seen this video:

 

How does air move through the engine bay?

 

 

 

and since i can not do the same in my Felicia, few days ago i opened in purpose the hood when the radiator fan just started to make a check.

With my palm tried to ''feel'' where the air went and i didn't felt (almost) nothing in the area around the air intake manifold which is a crucial part.

NO i don't have overheating problems, no leaks, the radiator is OK, i have new fan and hose, new coolant, thermostat is OK, radiator fan switch is working as it should be etc but i keep thinking:

''what can i do to help my engine at hot summer days?''

No matter how Skoda think about this almost 30 years ago i want to do something because summer heat + age of components is good for damages only.

 

I don't want at the moment to change the radiator with one from the Felicia 1.6 (it's another matter that we will discus it in another topic for example here ) ,i don't want to cut the hood to install hood vents and i don't want to raise the hood with washers-spacers.

I am thinking for an auxiliary fan, maybe a PULLER (from the engine bay to the environment to remove heat) or PUSHER (between the bumper and the factory radiator to bring more air inside).

What's your thought about this project?

 

 

 

 

 

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  • You have a well designed system functioning perfectly, the thermostat has never even fully opened and yet you wish to add more cooling! A solution looking for a problem.   Adding an addition

  • You already have an electric fan which has enough mass airflow capability to cool a hot but idling engine in city traffic. Been there, done that...

  • Felicia has a big hole under the engine, I could feel hot air coming out of the engine underneath and the car - and that was with the weak motor of the non-ac 1.3. With AC, you have two speed fan, if

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4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

With my palm tried to ''feel'' where the air went

At a wild guess the car was stopped at this time. So just what made you believe that your test had the least relationship to what happens when the bonnet is closed and the car is doing say 90 kph?

  • Author
10 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

At a wild guess the car was stopped at this time.

 

For sure (as in the test of the video), otherwise how could set my palm to test the air flow? I am not Tiramolla. 😉 

 

My concern is not at traveling in highway but in city traffic, high temperatures, no air coming and my old engine is suffering.

I wonder, an auxiliary fan could help a bit in that harsh situation?

 

12 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I wonder, an auxiliary fan could help a bit in that harsh situation?

You already have an electric fan which has enough mass airflow capability to cool a hot but idling engine in city traffic. Been there, done that...

  • Author

I have seen some videos but some guys don't think deeper as they should be and install a front radiator fan with a very sloppy work.

 

 

Felicia has a big hole under the engine, I could feel hot air coming out of the engine underneath and the car - and that was with the weak motor of the non-ac 1.3. With AC, you have two speed fan, if it's not kicking to second speed, you have plenty of cooling.

  • Author
5 hours ago, Papez said:

I could feel hot air coming out of the engine underneath and the car

 

I know what you mean, i have felt that heat coming out from the sides but i was referring to the harsh traffic conditions in the summer, i thought that an auxiliary fan could help a bit at that time.

Well the cooling system is not very efficient you cant do anything about it.

With aircon mine will kick on second speed if it detects high refrigerant pressure.

But without aircon up to now first speed has proved more than adequate (95c)

2nd speed has only kicked on while i was stationary with aircon on so not triggered by thermoswitch (95c)

  • Author
11 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well the cooling system is not very efficient you cant do anything about it.

 

I have no onerheating problems, the highest temperature that i have seen in traffic is one click above the 90 'C line, the 2nd scale works when i engage the a/c.

I had the thought via a fan to brink more air inside or extract some of the hot air from the engine bay especially close to the air intake manifold.

9 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I had the thought via a fan to brink more air inside or extract some of the hot air from the engine bay especially close to the air intake manifold.

 

No need for that, since Felicia has a cold intake from the bumper.

The car in the vid has the intake in the bay, so some extra cold air in the bay is desirable.

KISS, like Skoda / VW and other car manufacturers did with vehicles sold all around the world for all climates and envirionments.

 

I had extra electric fans on V8 engines for when sitting in traffic and the temperatures could rise rather quickly and that was an early demise of heads / gaskets.

I have a Ford Granada Scorpio 2.9 auto that was much the same and would spew the coolant out in summertime grid lock traffic.

  • Author
59 minutes ago, Papez said:

No need for that, since Felicia has a cold intake from the bumper.

 

Yes, for the air filter box but i feel that extensive summer heat at traffic and old components make me worry.

 

59 minutes ago, toot said:

I had extra electric fans on V8 engines for when sitting in traffic and the temperatures could rise rather quickly and that was an early demise of heads / gaskets.

 

Those electric fans didn't helped you at all?

Of course they did, they were behind the radiator in the engines compartment drawing air through the radiator and aiding cooling.  You have fans on some cars Infront blowing through. You have cars / vehicles moving and the airflow going through.   A switchable additional fan was very necessary on my last 4.6 V8 auto running on LPG. 

 

EDIT.

Pics of larger capacity radiator and addition fan missing right now. 

post-86161-0-09680200-1454081984.jpg

Edited by toot

  • Author

@toot : You have also hood vents to help the hot air come out from the enfine bay.

No.  For cabin air intake.

Just instead of the plates with holes you get on top of the wings.

At some points they were blocked because not required offroad, and for engine air i ran a Snorkle and wading plugs and raised breather axles and exhaust.

 

As it is you engine does not overheat.  Run water wetter as a coolant if needs must, but your needs do not require.

 

 

Screenshot 2023-06-12 11.01.38 AM.png

Screenshot 2023-06-12 11.02.07 AM.png

kap.tong.june 2009 133 (1).JPG

Edited by toot

53 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

i feel that extensive summer heat at traffic and old components make me worry.

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have no onerheating problems, the highest temperature that i have seen in traffic is one click above the 90 'C

 

You have a well designed system functioning perfectly, the thermostat has never even fully opened and yet you wish to add more cooling! A solution looking for a problem.

 

Adding an additional fan and/or fitting a larger more efficient radiator will achieve nothing other than perhaps your fan(s) running less or not running at all and then you risk seizure and the day you do need the fan to work, a coolant leak etc it wont!

Edited by J.R.

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have no onerheating problems, the highest temperature that i have seen in traffic is one click above the 90 'C line, the 2nd scale works when i engage the a/c.

Surely you have answered your own thread title question, what you already have is working well.  Numbers were removed from gauges and gauges made with a bias to a more fixed stable reading to help remove some of the worries over temperature readings.  The car was designed to cope with a range of running temperatures not just one ideal temperature.

 

If you are worried perhaps you can fit an override switch so that you can switch the fan on earlier when you feel it might be necessary but this will have limited application and effect and you introduce more parts and wiring to potentially go wrong which are not really needed, more drain and strain on alternator, engine and battery - less mpg. 😉

 

38 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You have a well designed

We sadly dont...

How well designed or not it is coping well according to what D.FYLAKTOS has put.

 

If his vehicle has only ever registered 92°c in traffic in a Greek summer then I would say it is a well designed fit for the purpose cooling system for that is the temperature that the thermostat regulates the engine coolant to.

 

If it were frequently going above 100°c meaning the thermostat is no longer regulating leaving only the cooling fan & thermoswitch then there is some argument to increasing the cooling efficiency as a precautionary measure.

 

Ditto if you are tuning the engine or racing on a short twisty circuit.

  • Author
29 minutes ago, J.R. said:

If his vehicle has only ever registered 92°c in traffic in a Greek summer

 

If it were frequently going above 100°c

 

The highest is 95°c at July for example in very harsh traffic situations.

 

If i manage to extract some heat from the engine bay would do any good in long term?

 

58 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

We sadly dont...

 

So we can make a modification to help it?

  • Author
1 hour ago, nta16 said:

If you are worried perhaps you can fit an override switch so that you can switch the fan on earlier when you feel it might be necessary

 

more drain and strain on alternator, engine and battery - less mpg. 😉

 

I have one scale lower thermoswitch in purpose.

 

Yeah, high W electric fan and if it works often will add more load to the engine.

36 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

If i manage to extract some heat from the engine bay would do any good in long term?

 

It's a liquid cooled engine. Cooling the engine bay doesn't do much.

 

36 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The highest is 95°c at July for example in very harsh traffic situations.

 

That's better than the factory solution and perfectly fine. 

 

Only improvement I can think of is some sort of switch, which engages 2nd speed instead of 1st when the AC is on (as 1st is already running with AC)

Edited by Papez

59 minutes ago, Papez said:

Only improvement I can think of is some sort of switch, which engages 2nd speed instead of 1st when the AC is on

It can do that 

My system has these states

1st 95c commanded by thermoswitch 

2nd 102c commanded by thermoswitch 

1st speed and compressor commanded by ac

2nd speed based on refrigerant pressure 

Complete turn off and no compressor based on evaporator temp

Complete turn off of ac when refrigerant pressure low 

I don't know if it can turn syren off when refrigerant pressure goes too high? 

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

  • Author
1 hour ago, Papez said:

Cooling the engine bay doesn't do much.

 

Oh, No...:sadsmile:

 

10 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

2nd 102c commanded by thermoswitch 

 

80-85 isn't your thermoswitch?

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

is some sort of switch, which engages 2nd speed instead of 1st when the AC is on (as 1st is already running with AC)

 

This will make radiator fan work much harder, i have destroyed a new one this way (the mechanic made wrong connection) and i have opened a topic for this.

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