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1.8 TSI Leaking Oil into Spark Plug, Needs New Engine or can I keep driving it and topping up with oil?

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1.8 TSI CDA Gen2 Engine. First noticed this leak when the engine started misfiring in one of the cylinders over a year ago. No leaks on ground at all. Little smoke out of back. Engine shows some oil around cover.

 

Upon inspecting the spark plugs, one was absolutely covered in oil. Confusion over high oil usage now made sense (about 1 litre per 800km). Replaced sparkies and all is fine since. I'm guessing it won't be long before misfiring arises again and I need to replace the sparkies once more.

 

I have asked a few mechanics, including Skoda, without a full inspection, they all said the job is huge and the engine needs a total rebuild or replacement which would cost close to what the car is worth. I thought a new o-ring / gasket would be the answer but it seems you can't do this with this engine? Anyway, they advised to sell it quickly.

 

I'm not going to get much for the car now, which 10 years old now. I'd only sell to a dealer with this issue. I'd like to keep it as it is otherwise a fantastic car.

 

Question I have is, can I just keep topping it up with oil and keep it going for at least a few more years? It is going fine so far. Or is a sudden engine failure just around the corner? I'm not sure what the next usual pattern for such issues are. 

 

Cheers.

What O ring or gasket were you thinking of?

Have you established where the leak is coming from? If it's hitting the spark plugs, it's probably getting in through the intake which would suggest crankcase ventilation or turbo. Turbo is easy enough to check if you pop off the high pressure hose going to the intake manifold and check for play in the shaft. A lot of oil in this area would also be a strong indicator.

I assume you mean the plug electrode is oil fouled? The EA888 is terrible for burning oil, for some odd reason the 1.8 is much worse than the 2.0, there is a redesigned piston which usually cures this but it is a lot of work.

  • Author
2 hours ago, J.R. said:

What O ring or gasket were you thinking of?

Valve cover gasket? It probably doesn't have one. I don't know. When I first started asking at the local auto parts, they suggested this and when they couldn't find a gasket for it they offered me a tube of gasket maker.

  • Author
3 hours ago, chimaera said:

Have you established where the leak is coming from?

All I can say is that spark plug no. 2 was dripping in oil when I checked it. The others were fine. 

 

3 hours ago, chimaera said:

suggest crankcase ventilation or turbo

I'll check. Thanks

  • Author
3 hours ago, Crasher said:

I assume you mean the plug electrode is oil fouled?

Yes. 

1 hour ago, cloudburster said:

Valve cover gasket? It probably doesn't have one. I don't know. When I first started asking at the local auto parts, they suggested this and when they couldn't find a gasket for it they offered me a tube of gasket maker.

 

That would leak oil to the outside of the engine, oil on the electrode is 99% sure to be coming up from the crankcase past the piston rings on the induction stroke during light throttle openings.

 

If it were the turbo or crankcase ventilation it would affect all 4 spark plugs equally.

 

A compression test may reveal low compression on that cylinder which will be more than just stuck rings but broken ones and bore damage.

 

The auto parts shop did not want you leaving without buying something.

Deleted, I was asking you to confirm that the electrode and not the outside of the plug was oily, I can see the question was already asked and you have done so.

Edited by J.R.

  • Author
35 minutes ago, J.R. said:

99% sure to be coming up from the crankcase past the piston rings on the induction stroke during light throttle openings.

Is this a major engine rebuild then, as the mechanics have suggested? 

 

Secondly, what will happen if I keep driving and topping up oil with this issue?

 

Thanks

Yes, major very expensive job. Eventually the oil will cause the cat to fail. A full exchange unit is nearly £8000 in the box never mind fitted.

Assuming the cylinder bore isn't badly damaged, the head has to come off to remove the piston and the oil pan has to come off to detach the con rod from the crankshaft. Lots of labour, and there may be a bunch of 'while-you're-in-there' parts to replace. This is doable with the engine in situ I think.

 

It would be worth having a look into the cylinder with a borescope to see what things are like in there before you go any further.

  • Author
7 hours ago, Crasher said:

Eventually the oil will cause the cat to fail.

What's the cat? What will happen when that fails?

 

Just trying to guage my options. Do I sell for pittance at the dealer now or for parts when catastrophic failure occurs? Not much change between the two.

 

I guess getting rid of it now is more sensible. Especially if the engine is likely to suddenly die on me instead of a gradual decline?

Exhaust catalyst. If you look at the oil filler cap it has an over filling will damage the cat and the oil burning produces the same result. The engine won't suddenly fail,

Your best bet might be a private sale to someone with the skills and resources to do the repair themselves. You'll get more than a dealer is going to give you for it. Alternatively see if you can source a known good used engine.

Big big job. Lots and lots of posts on here from others in same predicament.

 

The latter parts of the engine failures ea888 sticky includes some. But lots of people who have got caught buying second hand cars and post their dismay after owning the car for a month and 300 miles and the oil light on. Leaves a very uneasy feeling in their stomach and they come on here hoping for reassurence. The advice is always invoke statutory protection and return car if bought from trader....

 

Whilst in the early stages, the car won't just stop. Eventually, the burning oil will kill the engine one way or another whether it be burnt valves, sticking valves carboned up, lack of cylinder compression (happens very late on and is not evident in earlier stages).

 

One day it will just not work anymore. and no one can tell you when exactly....

 

Petrol engines are not designed to burn 1litre in 500 miles. Especially if it has manifest presently in one cylinder, that is going to fail in the not too distant future. But in all likelihood, although plugs are not fouled yet, other cylinders are probably passing oil, just not as bad ... yet.  Its a steep slope once it takes hold. 

Edited by TheClient

  • Author

Thanks for the responses all. I feel like we are discussing a progressive disease on a human being! 

 

Still, I've had a good run with it, buying it for well under the market value back when it was only 25,000km, 9 years ago. Was a great car for getting two large child seats in comfortably. It did the job.

 

In Australia, it's not a popular car (which is why I was able to bargain it down so low when I bought it - the dealer was happy as Larry to see the back of it). I'll try selling it to someone who wants to take the issues on, but I think the chances of that happening are similar to that of finding a good used engine. 

 

Cheers

Edited by cloudburster

Vag just got the scraper ring detail so wrong on this engine, oh and the early edition chains and tensioners. But when you don't have these issues raising their heads it was a very driveable engine and ticked a lot of boxes.  

  • 1 month later...
On 10/07/2023 at 22:54, cloudburster said:

Valve cover gasket? It probably doesn't have one. I don't know. When I first started asking at the local auto parts, they suggested this and when they couldn't find a gasket for it they offered me a tube of gasket maker.

Hi, your engine doesn’t have a gasket, it is sealed with gasket goo. Get the best product you can get. Have a look on you tube for how to. Quite easy if your handy. Type in cam Cover sealing and engine type

  • 7 months later...

Bit late but my symptoms are similar.

Octavia 2012, V2. No problem since 109k 2017, now 140k.

Last week misfire. VCDS said cylinder 2.

Bought new coil-pack and the plug was hand tight? Very oily.

I guessed this caused misfire. Fitted new coil-pack and plug.

Hesitant on start but cleared. Went 12km reasonable driving, no problems.

Booted in 'S' hammered it, 6km no problem, turned to go back and ECU/Engine lite on, VCDS said cylinder 2.

Day after cleared fault, ran 12km, no problem, but no boot it's in Saturday for check.

Guess: Loose plug on 2 caused misfire and its taking time to clear oil.

Am I being too optimistic?

Comments welcome.

23 hours ago, anotherdownunder said:

Bit late but my symptoms are similar.

Octavia 2012, V2. No problem since 109k 2017, now 140k.

Last week misfire. VCDS said cylinder 2.

Bought new coil-pack and the plug was hand tight? Very oily.

I guessed this caused misfire. Fitted new coil-pack and plug.

Hesitant on start but cleared. Went 12km reasonable driving, no problems.

Booted in 'S' hammered it, 6km no problem, turned to go back and ECU/Engine lite on, VCDS said cylinder 2.

Day after cleared fault, ran 12km, no problem, but no boot it's in Saturday for check.

Guess: Loose plug on 2 caused misfire and its taking time to clear oil.

Am I being too optimistic?

Comments welcome.

EA888 gen two? 1.8tsi? What's the engine code CDAA or CDAB? It doesn't sound good. Plugs can work loose if not properly torqued to spec through heat cycles.  But it would not cause oil build up. If anything you get bore wash and misfires with eventual cylinder shut down. What do the rest of the plugs look like? Photos would help.  What is the oil usage per x kms or x miles? 

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