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Superb III Sportline - Mission Impossible Spec


ApertureS

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Today was a busy day, Im trying to cut down the work required for the largest part of the job so when I have time im undertaking the bits that can be done beforehand.

 

This first meant the roof lining coming down as photoed

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This was to allow the NS antenna to be replaced from DAB to DAB/TV and its associated fakra cable running to the OS ready for routing to the TV tuner.

The OS antenna didnt exist, neither did its wiring so a quick loom was made up in the factory black/blue colours and the antenna and its 2 fakra cables for TV and Webasto antenna were ran down the OS D pillar.

The shark fin was replaced from GPS to GPS/Cellular - this new fakra cable was ran to the NS of the vehicle to meet up with the 2-way amplifer.

 

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After this, it was the perfect time to run the wires needed into the trunk:

The first was the HSD connector which will end up connecting to the 360 camera system, this has been ran into the tailgate and cable tied out the way for now, the other end went down the OS D pillar with a male connector ready for a connection to run to the front of the car.

The second was the final antenna at the top of the tailgate, this was FM2, it is now FM2/TV and needed the fakra cable running to the same as above, into the car, down the D pillar and now has a male connector to allow full disconnecting of the tailgate if it ever needed to be fully removed.

 

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Sadly to the keen eyed - the double fakra connectors are near impossible to source in anything except water blue/universal. The mustard, black and green ones are impossible to find in a one off quantity but as there are no other fakra connectors in the area, there is no risk of them being misconnected.

 

Everything was then refitted and tested for any rattles or such, no new sounds and 6 new data wires ran to the lower sections of the car, hopefully the headliner is never to come out again!

 

 

 

 

Bonus pictures for anyone wanting pictures of the inside of the roof:

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This weekends work may span 2 posts....

 

So the plan for this weekend was:

-Run the rear to front wiring

-Fit rear modules

-Fit TV tuner module

-Fit fuel lines

-Fit webasto fuel pump

 

So lets get started! Weather: Odd spots of rain but very very windy - meant no gazebo and had to work outside in the cold wind.

 

 

The rear modules we had to fit were the 2-way amplifier for the signal booster, the DCC module and the webasto remote start control module. All part numbers on show for anyone that needs them. The fakra connectors for the remote start and 2-way were terminated and connected. The 2-way fakra was connected and ran down the nearside of the car towards the front.

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Next up the webasto fuel pump and fuel lines were fitted - the fuel pump and lines vary by petrol/diesel/hybrid and FWD/AWD so my part numbers are for petrol FWD.

Pump 3Q0201607                   Fuel lines 3Q0200059BF

Officially you are meant to drop the tank slightly to fit the pump but I managed to run it up and over the tank without dropping it. Once on top of the tank, cut the small blue nipple off and fit and crimp the rubber fitting.

The fuel lines, although they seem daunting, they were incredibly simple to fit, disconnect at the rear of the car and remove the plastic retainer, then pull them off their bracket at the front and all 2/3 fuel lines slide out the front as one. Reverse for fitting.

(Note - the front fuel line connector is a PITA - to release it, you need to push it inwards till its flush, then press the tiny black tabs in on either side and slide it off, dont use force or tools, youll break it!)

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The wiring was also ran through the waterproof connector and terminated.

 

 

Whilst the rear of the car interior and the underside was partially stripped, the rear arch wiring was ran - again this has a few options depending on FWD/AWD but for FWD the part numbers are as follows 3G0927902B and 3G0927902K. The only difference for these were the DCC connectors and as much as I could run my own DCC wires and connectors, I want it as OE as possible. These come through grommets in the rear footwell area and run to wires running just under the front edge of the rear bench.

The DCC connectors were waterproofed and cable tied up for now. I was also missing the small plastic brackets that hold the wires to the top arms, these have also been ordered (5Q0614167B)

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The rear DCC sensor was fitted just below the NS seat belt - A threaded insert was fitted and the DCC sensor fitted - this sensor needs to be pointing forward with 10 degrees of accurary.

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Edited by ApertureS
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5 hours ago, zacko_O said:

where do you buy the wires?

The wires themselves depends on what wire im after.

 

For the standard dual colour wires in 0.35mm to 6.0mm the best supplier ive found is ALMsolutions. They offer most colours in most sizes with 1.0mm being the most common it has the most options. The 0.5mm has a huge amount of options too and seen as im yet to find a supplier offering the 0.35mm wire in dual colour for less than 100M per order, ive had to use 0.5mm in place of the 0.35mm in most places. The most common size for the general wiring is 0.35mm or 0.5mm

 

For the fakra, BEVOTOP seems to be a good aliexpress supplier as ive had no issues with their connectors and wires for RG174 and RG58 depending on what I went for and its purpose. They are also a good fit for the vw/skoda components.

 

 

 

2 hours ago, ChrisCh said:

Are you an electrician?

 

Either way, you certainly are a master at wiring things in - I'm amazed by the amount of time and effort you've spent so far! Well done 😲

Im a mechanic/electrician by trade so my roots are well set in the wiring side of things!

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Thought id get round to the job of terminating all the data connectors today under the OSF seat.

This meant terminating 4x HSD connectors and 4x Fakra connectors as well as fitting the TV tuner and the 360 camera control module.

 

For the 360 module i decided to extend the cut out that is under the TV tuner bracket and this allowed perfect fitment on top of the rear footwell duct.

 

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The TV tuner bracket was fitted back on top of it and the tuner fitted. The 3x fakra connectors were terminated and the wiring and MOST cabling ran. This all got ran under the seat, along the floor and up into the A pillar ready to continue on up and over the dash.

(I am one double fakra connector short for the tv tuner as photoed, it has been ordered.)

 

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Whilst in the area the wiring for the ventilated seats was also started, this is simply a ground, power and a LIN signal back to the BCM. 3 wires started and ran into the a pillar area as well.

 

 

Last job of the day just so i could sit down and rest my knees - pop out the old parking button assembly and fit the new one in the 360 camera logo. No functionality different, but the emblem is different (Sticking to every detail)

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Posted (edited)

So today involved starting to fit the bits in the engine bay - this is where the real hard work is!

 

We made a start on the following:

-Webasto heater and parts

-Wiring loom

-Wheel arch wiring

-DCC sensors

-Front camera wiring

 

So to start, the front bumper and wheel arches came out to give more access as well as one of the headlights. The webasto was test fitted in place and the wiring loom mocked up as photographed below

 

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Once mocked up, the main bay loom was detached and given some slack and all the tape was removed - the new wires were attached and ran inside the loom and it was all rewrapped. As the loom worked its way back towards the bulkhead we needed to sort out the next part, the OSF wheel arch wiring (getting this out was an awful job as the brake servo is extremely tight to the wiring!) A bit of wiggling and persaution and it came out and could be replaced and rewired. Whilst here the OSF level sensor was fitted with a M6 bolt and M6 nut.

The part numbers are OSF 3Q0412522A and NSF 3Q0412521A

 

Next up the HSD waterproof cable was ran from the centre lower grill, up and into the main loom and off to the fuse box area, meaning the bumper hopefully wont need to come off again as the cable is all tucked next to the battery for now.

 

 

The webasto was then fully bolted up and the wiring and fuel line connection attached. 

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Webasto fitting is almost complete now! All that is left is the long coolant pipes, the rigid metal pipes and 2 replacement pipes that intercept the heater matrix pipes.

This is where we have serious issues now! So being the first to do something means you run into a lot of issues..... the issue being all countries that have webasto fitted or as an option (cold climates) are LHD! This meant a RHD rigid metal pipe was never created and simply does not exist.

Here is a photo of the pipe in question:

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The pipe runs along the right hand chassis leg, across the bulkhead and to roughly the centre of the bulkhead - the difference between LHD and RHD, the steering column and rack side! The damn bulkhead bulge is in the way and this means 100% there is no way of fitting this rigid pipe. Ive checked every single MQB car for a RHD option and none exist. This leaves me with a few options now, the first is give up, which I wont be doing, the rest are as follows, but with the crux of - I wont be able to size/measure/fit anything until the subframe is dropped and the rack moved out the way.

 

Modify the pipe to fit - means shortening the bracket that runs behind the column by around 1-2 inches, but this makes the pipe 1-2 inches short, this gap could be filled with a silicone hose or a welded pipe and that is still assuming the rest of it will fit the contours.

Cut both ends off - this will leave me with both ends intact, each with a mounting point and the 2 hose attachments, it then means the centre piece will need to be custom made to go in front or behind the column using silicone piping.

Dont use the pipe at all - Cut the quick connects off both ends of the car piping and use nylon joiners to create a fully silicone/rubber coolant pipe that would need heat shielding from the exhaust.

 

None of these options are ideal as they dont meet the goal of fully OE but im thinking a mix of idea 1 and 2. The issue is once the subframe is down and if the pipe cant be created quickly or if i need to order more parts it means im without a car for a while... 

So for now, we will put a pin in this and as a worst case, mock something up when the subframe is down, and then come back to it at a later date 😞

 

For the amount of work so far, This being the only set back isnt the worst thing. 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrows job - finish the bay wiring and tuck it next to the ABS module until the dash is out, fit the remaining arch loom and DCC accelerometer sensors, terminate the engine bay fuses but dont fit the actual fuses yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ApertureS
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iIs it not possible to have these pipes remade, or do you need a pattern to work to? Webasto sell the heater to fit the Superb, it is just the heater and no ancillaries they market?

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48 minutes ago, coppertop said:

iIs it not possible to have these pipes remade, or do you need a pattern to work to? Webasto sell the heater to fit the Superb, it is just the heater and no ancillaries they market?

Id need a pattern to work to that doesnt exist sadly. I could mock something up in copper and get it remade in stainless/tig welded by someone possibly. Rubber will be the cheaper and easier method by far! Webasto sell the heater only, the rest is made by skoda suppliers/manufacturers. 

Looking at this manual for aftermarket webasto - it only lists left hand drive
https://az666937.vo.msecnd.net/32/e2611f3b-4188-400d-86e5-7e4a9e72efac.pdf

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So ive looked at the above manual in a bit more detail and seeing the approved method from Webasto, ive decided to go for a hybrid of OE and Webasto in terms of piping. 

So ive ordered 2 meters of 19mm coolant piping, a handful of straight/90 degree fittings, some heat protect and some P clamps and then once it all turns up, we will see how it goes!

The 3 points i plan on mounting the pipes are: On the bulkhead where the O2 cable connectors are, Behind the steering column on a short M6 thread and finally on the right chassis leg where a rivnut will be added.

 

Ive got a week off work at the end of the month to put a big dent in all these retrofits again! Maybe even finish some of them.

 

 

Also call me crazy.... but I have priced up and checked out the viability in the future of retrofitting a panoramic roof :D (Seen as i need the roof painted anyway, why not replace it!)

Youd be suprised to know the OE fitting procedure for a roof panel is about 1 litre of 2-part structural adhesive, 400ml of 1-part adhesive, a smear of seam sealer and about 20 resistance spot welds. No full welding required anywhere!

(Wouldnt be doing this anytime soon, gotta get all the above fitting and running first!)

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Crazy but inspiring!

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/03/2024 at 19:13, ApertureS said:

 

Also call me crazy.... but I have priced up and checked out the viability in the future of retrofitting a panoramic roof :D (Seen as i need the roof painted anyway, why not replace it!)

Errr. What! Thats the first time I've ever heard of this. 

At the beginning of this thread I just thought that you were extremely enthusiastic, but now... I'm inclined to agree. You are crazy, but in a good way though 😁.

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Wow, just read from start to finish, some excellent work, some very nice upgrades.

 

can a heated screen be retro fitted to an Enyaq VRS?

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19 minutes ago, mdk1 said:

Wow, just read from start to finish, some excellent work, some very nice upgrades.

 

can a heated screen be retro fitted to an Enyaq VRS?

If it was a factory option, i see no reason it couldnt be done.

 

The only issues will be because the car is on the newest platform with a lot more back door and modification protection - it would make the entire job harder just from a software point of view

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On 06/04/2024 at 17:22, ApertureS said:

If it was a factory option, i see no reason it couldnt be done.

 

The only issues will be because the car is on the newest platform with a lot more back door and modification protection - it would make the entire job harder just from a software point of view

I did think it might be tricky, as there is no physical button and turned on via a virtual button on the screen.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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