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Probably moving to an Audi A4 (update 21/03/25 - or will it be a Roomster?...)

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1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Beat the spinning engine cover nut by drilling and tapping an M3 thread in the stud, and sticking a screw in it to counterhold.

Credit to workmate Richard for that idea. :)

 

IMG-20240916-WA0004.jpeg

 

Did you drill that after an afternoon at the pub 😉

 

Happy New Car!!!

 

This is one of the final and probably the best versions of the PD IMO, they only offered it in 115 in this model of car IIRC, probably because they had the 140 and 170 2.0 PD which were ok until they added the DPF's to them which don't work well at all.

 

Don't worry, you will get used to the clatter of a diesel eventually!

 

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  • It doesn't. Plenty grunty enough as is, and I doubt the EGR and TB have ever been cleaned out, so only going to get better.   Found out why it was sold just now.  Reviewing paperwork ha

  • As in a pic?   Not much to say about it, appearance-wise. "It's a car, in a boring colour" 😁

  • We both test drove it this evening. All good, so going to take it off his hands in a couple of weeks' time. Needs rear brakes, but I'm happy to sort that myself. Anyone want a Polo?

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Its ripe for a remap if that floats your boat, a cheap no risk option as well if you buy a pre-installed map on a second hand ECU (E-bay is the place) they call them "plug n Play" remaps.

 

Then you get to keep the original ECU as a spare, I know that you like me understand that ECU failure is as rare as rocking horse poo but having a spare one can rule out the possibility when fault finding.

 

2 minor downsides to using an ECU from a probably scrapped vehicle, to mak it plug and play they disable the immobiliser, that for me was actually a positive, one less common fault to occur and no-one is likely to try stealing my vehicle, the other one is that whilst your odometer will continue to show the correct mileage the check mileage function on VCDS will show the one stored on the ECU which will be a 50/50 chance of being higher or lower. That said that function is not available on the Yeti ECU and may not be on your A4 either.

 

It looks a nice package, I'll definitely consider one if something happens to the Yeti, EU4 emissions and the best of the PD engines sounds like the sweet spot to me, does it have a 6 speed gearbox as well?

 

Thinking about it a torquey PD engine does not need an additional gear ratio.

Edited by J.R.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

They are self composting, actually I hope it should be "were" self composting as touch wood the Yeti one is still intact.

 

I'll check ours when it's back tomorrow. It passed its TüV but had to wait for a part. I pressed her on it and I think I narrowed 'fronts suspension axel thingy' to wishbone or 'Radaufhängung'. 

Anyway it was very clean inside when it left and she says it's the best car she's ever owned. Even better than any Gold she ever owned. To be honest I'm looking forward to getting it back as well as I agree with her. 

It's a fantastic SE Plus spec that was never sold in the UK. 

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It doesn't. Plenty grunty enough as is, and I doubt the EGR and TB have ever been cleaned out, so only going to get better.

 

Found out why it was sold just now. 

Reviewing paperwork handed over to me. Audi recalled it for an airbag thing (69r7) a month or so back.

That was free, but the upselling included a quote of £471 for rear discs and pads, cambelt for a shade under 1k, and cheekiest ever - 'rear washer nozzle inop. Req investigation' 1 hour labour at £216. 😁 

Nozzle off (30 seconds) soak in descaler, refit. At least that was my approach. 

 

Jeez - the dealer really was in cloud cuckoo land when they put that list together...

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20240919_161353.thumb.jpg.e6c2d8327054a2c6407f3fdbddd57691.jpg

Better.

:biggrin:

There was a stat in there, old below new.

20240919_143859.thumb.jpg.e0acfc6900bdbd692d7c11a0f0d940ac.jpg

 

Oil and filter change tomorrow,  if I get a chance.

Fuel filter to follow once I've got a bit of diesel in a can to pre-fill it. 

 

 

That temp is now spot on.

34 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

There was a stat in there, 

 

 

 

I win, I win, Yaaayyyyy!!! 😁

 

My life is that exciting I'm gonna celebrate my contrariness with a well deserved cuppa tea :blush

 

Glad you got it sorted 👍

 

Gaz

3 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

That temp is now spot on.

As is every other VAG vehicle produced in the last 1/4 of a century, the temperature has to be well above or below for it to indicate anything other than a rock steady 90°c.

 

I miss being able to see the micro fluctuations, since owning a Triumph Stag I have always driven with one eye on the temperature guage (not easy when you only have one working eye!) which has been pretty pointless for the last 25 years.

 

But not in fact, when the waterpump leaked on the Stag I avoided warping the heads as I noticed a micro fluctuation overtemp where there should not have been one, I stopped immediately even though I was only a few hundred yards from home, checked everything, allowed it to cool, refilled and drove home. Given that I now wont see any indication of overtemp until it has reached at least 110°c its even more imperative to check the guage all the time and to stop immediately if it rises.

4 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

There was a stat in there, old below new

Slightly surprised; I honestly thought the description sounded more like "no stat".

4 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

That temp is now spot on.

Or, at least, somewhere between 50 and 110.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

As is every other VAG vehicle produced in the last 1/4 of a century, the temperature has to be well above or below for it to indicate anything other than a rock steady 90°c.

 

I miss being able to see the micro fluctuations, since owning a Triumph Stag I have always driven with one eye on the temperature guage (not easy when you only have one working eye!) which has been pretty pointless for the last 25 years.

 

But not in fact, when the waterpump leaked on the Stag I avoided warping the heads as I noticed a micro fluctuation overtemp where there should not have been one, I stopped immediately even though I was only a few hundred yards from home, checked everything, allowed it to cool, refilled and drove home. Given that I now wont see any indication of overtemp until it has reached at least 110°c its even more imperative to check the guage all the time and to stop immediately if it rises.

 

If your Yeti has Maxidot then the display can show oil temperature which may give you an indication.

Given your knowledge I'm sure you could also jerry rig a coolant temperature gauge somehow. 

Edited by Lee01

Oil temperature is only worthy of interest in extremis conditions like some of my extreme towing journeys and even then its more to break the monotony, the only other occasion would be if there was a suspicion that the oil cooler was playing up.

 

I am used to frequently scanning the dials concentrating on what is important. I also scroll through the maxidot several times paying attention to the oil temperature.

On 16/09/2024 at 21:05, Breezy_Pete said:

The sound insulation on the underside of the engine cover had done a nasty mix of falling off and disintegrating,  covering the engine in black foam dust, now largely vacuumed away.

There's an almost new roll recently listed on Facebook Marketplace and loads available on aliexpress.com.

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Kind thought Mike, but I think I can live without. 

 

Looks a bit like a classic roman sculpture of a bearded man with some groovy sunglasses on:

 

Screenshot2024-09-21at16_24_48.thumb.jpeg.0716a868c38c5c29c0dd06327d9959a6.jpeg

 

....wearing a curious space helmet.

 

Don't mind me - too much chocolate :blush

 

G

Looks like it sarificed itself for the good of the rest of the engine!

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9 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

Looks like it sarificed itself for the good of the rest of the engine!

Hope so; but my optimism doesn't stretch to imagining that the inlet valves look more like the second photo than the first. 

 

The throttle valve looks a lot better, upstream of the soot source,  but still getting a clean later.

19 hours ago, Gaz said:

too much chocolate

More to the point, what proof or what "recreational" content was in those chocolates? 🥴 😁

21 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

As expected, (electric) EGR valve not looking pretty at all

EGR = Exhaust Gunge Recovery? :)

 

 

8 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Hope so; but my optimism doesn't stretch to imagining that the inlet valves look more like the second photo than the first. 

 

The throttle valve looks a lot better, upstream of the soot source,  but still getting a clean later.

 

I agree but its amazing how well they continue to run and have undiminished fuel economy or power in all but drag race conditions, todays schmoo does not seem to smother engines like back in the day when a decoke was needed well before 40K miles.

 

You are lucky that the throttle valve is upstream, mine was much peppier after I de-schmoo'd it but the ports and valves will no doubt be like yours yet its coping with the extra power after the remap.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Joined a very slow-moving queue at a roundabout just after leaving work.

'Engine' started making a nasty clatter each time I crept forward. Sounded nasty!

Panicked a bit but thought, I'll see what happens when I get going again, if I make it round.

It was good as gold. Even seemed a bit pokier than it has been recently. 

 

Scary minute or two and I'm a bit baffled as to what happened. 

Are those the circumstances when a DMF would clatter if everything was cold?

Don't like that idea much.

 

Prefer some dubious idea like some chunk of carbon loosened during EGR clean might have got involved with one intake port and caused a misfire in that cylinder?

 

Any thoughts, pretty please? 

Just a thought, but are you certain that the timing belt and water pump has been changed?

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