23 minutes ago, MilkaBv said:

Yes, 12V is present at the wires.

Are you sure the display is oriented correctly after assembling the unit? There might be something inside the connector or a similar issue.

You should also check the system with ODIS or VCDS for any errors and confirm whether you can access the infotainment module. That will give you feedback what might be causing the problem.

When soldering, make sure the EEPROM chip is oriented correctly. Check carefully that no legs are shorted and that every single pin is properly soldered. You need to use a magnifier to inspect the solder joints thoroughly.

30 minutes ago, Zlatko580 said:

Are you sure the display is oriented correctly after assembling the unit? There might be something inside the connector or a similar issue.

You should also check the system with ODIS or VCDS for any errors and confirm whether you can access the infotainment module. That will give you feedback what might be causing the problem.

When soldering, make sure the EEPROM chip is oriented correctly. Check carefully that no legs are shorted and that every single pin is properly soldered. You need to use a magnifier to inspect the solder joints thoroughly.

Will the ODIS / VSDS show up if there is a fault under the infotainment module? if so i will try to get this check.
The soldering was checked under microscope and it was also performed 3 times so i think that it would be a low posibility.
Will try to get it checked on monday again, if not.. i think i will go with an android version upgrade.

4 minutes ago, MilkaBv said:

Will the ODIS / VSDS show up if there is a fault under the infotainment module? if so i will try to get this check.
The soldering was checked under microscope and it was also performed 3 times so i think that it would be a low posibility.
Will try to get it checked on monday again, if not.. i think i will go with an android version upgrade.

ODIS/VCDS will show faults under the infotainment, or "no communication" if infotainment not working at all. This will give you direction to the problem.

Hi all, question not about Skoda, but Seat :-)

I have MIB 2 LG, data as follows (no Nav, Voice, Android auto):

1. Part number: 5F0035871E

2. SW Train: MEN2_EU_SE_P7170L

3. Installed MU version: 7315

Did anyone tried on Seat? Also, this is wired or wireless connection?

Thanks

15 minutes ago, FenrirXIII said:

Hi all, question not about Skoda, but Seat :-)

I have MIB 2 LG, data as follows (no Nav, Voice, Android auto):

1. Part number: 5F0035871E

2. SW Train: MEN2_EU_SE_P7170L

3. Installed MU version: 7315

Did anyone tried on Seat? Also, this is wired or wireless connection?

Thanks

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535342-activating-smartlink-on-swing-3/page/2/

You can see at page 2, @Lokizz did it with desoldering.

I not recommend desoldering due to risk of mistake.

First try without desoldering with/without 1.8v adapter.

18 minutes ago, Zlatko580 said:

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535342-activating-smartlink-on-swing-3/page/2/

You can see at page 2, @Lokizz did it with desoldering.

I not recommend desoldering due to risk of mistake.

First try without desoldering with/without 1.8v adapter.

I`m not so good with soldering. Will try initial method, though updates won't be fast - need to order hardware bits. A bit unsure on sw version on the unit.

3 minutes ago, FenrirXIII said:

I`m not so good with soldering. Will try initial method, though updates won't be fast - need to order hardware bits. A bit unsure on sw version on the unit.

There is no too much data unfortunately, we can try and experiment. If it does not working you can write original .bin = return to default state.

11 hours ago, MilkaBv said:

I have manage to get the file upgraded, solder it back to the board but the navigation is not powering up anymore.

I have check with a multimeter on the 12V plug that powers the infotainment and it provides the voltage.
Any tips on what to look for?

Is there a chance that you soldered the chip back on wrong way? If the CH341A can read and write on it, the chip itself should be fine. Maybe there is some connector or bit that you just did not plug in the way it was. Reseat everything that you touched, check if the chip is alive and well by ch341a, take a shot of how you soldered it from 2-4 angles so we can help you if the joints look bad.

Greetings Zlatko, why is this written on a Russian forum

IMPORTANT! If the MU firmware version starts at 0xxx, where xxx is any digit, before recording the unit, it is necessary to read the VCRN from block 5F with the help of any convenient instrument. In CarScanner this can be seen in "Settings>Identifiers ECU>5F"

USEFUL TO KNOW! If the chip is not read via the 1.8V adapter, it means that it needs to be removed from the board.

Then the dump is patched with the help of MEN2 FEC Activator by Enthusiast and written bac

https://www.drive2.ru/b/693456212276038091/

No idea, I didn't go that deep. Also never saw MU which start with 0, usualy starts with 8 or 7.

For me it starts with 0

It is releated with something about Component Protection. Probably there is possibility something could go wrong, you need to update software and with that VCRN (Vehicle Component Registered Number) you can turn off CP I guess. Not sure about that.

Also there is stated that if you can not read it with clamp, you have to unsolder chip, or at least unsolder VCC leg.

It is possible that other people who had problems with reading with clamp had MU version which start with 0 🤔

Edited 22 February22 Feb by Zlatko580

Just did the patch on a MEN2_EU_SEGPx_P8010L unit (SEAT Arona), worked flawlessly. In the past I faced a memory corruption issue that happened because the IC didn't fully make contact with the "clamp" pins so I just desoldered the IC to be safe

Edited 24 February24 Feb by tcussr8jco

On 19. 01. 2026. at 22:33, wegorz-pwo said:

Zanima me

Did you manage to activate Smartlink?

Hello,

Why does the LED on the programmer always go out when I connect the board through a clamp? I should have everything connected correctly.

Hi, did you try with 1.8v adapter?

On 21/02/2026 at 21:29, Zlatko580 said:

First try with 1.8v adapter.

16 minutes ago, Zlatko580 said:

Hi, did you try with 1.8v adapter?

No, i dont have this adapter. Do you think this would fix this problem?

Maybe yes, maybe no. What is your MU version?

On 10/01/2026 at 11:48, Lokizz said:

works 100% :), i had to desolder chip

So how's it been? All working normally? I'm planning to do it myself soon. Maybe I upload pictures here for more information.

20 hours ago, Zlatko580 said:

Maybe yes, maybe no. What is your MU version?

8190

Just now, ItzMeDejv said:

8190

It should work with or without 1.8 adapter, you can try both options. If it still dosent read, then you need to unsolder chip or at least unsolder vcc leg.

On 04/03/2026 at 15:49, Fsbn said:

So how's it been? All working normally? I'm planning to do it myself soon. Maybe I upload pictures here for more information.

All working as it should, no issues so far.

On 10.12.2025 at 17:52, Zlatko580 said:

Możesz odczytać kanał adaptacyjny: Potwierdzenie zmiany instalacji na 5F za pomocą VCDS lub ODIS, wpisać jego wartość na tej stronie, kliknąć lupę i uzyskać nowy klucz. Zapisz ten nowy klucz na tym samym kanale adaptacyjnym i wyczyść kody błędów. Powinno działać.

Z programatorem EEPROM, nie wiem, prawdopodobnie tak, ale byłoby to trudne, ponieważ nie ma żadnego poradnika. Pierwsza opcja jest o wiele wygodniejsza.

On what page? And what should I enter? Please provide step-by-step instructions. I have obdeleven.

Just follow what is written already. https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/

There is couple steps...

Hello,
any idea how to remove the radio from the car?
I tried with removal keys on the bottom and plastic cards on top as in the picture below. Still doesn't want to come out - any solutions?