1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Workshop manuals says around 2.5 bar.

So 3.2 - 0.7 = 2.5 bar

no vacuum = 3 - 3.2 bar

and also flow rate is very important

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

If you are to buy only one buy this https://www.autodoc.gr/hella/937821

And check the coilpack before you buy

Thanks, coilpack is going to be replaced next week - it's on order. Once that's fitted and checked, we'll see whether to buy an ECT Sensor.

1 hour ago, TonyW1967 said:

Thanks, coilpack is going to be replaced next week - it's on order. Once that's fitted and checked, we'll see whether to buy an ECT Sensor.

Great..

18 hours ago, TonyW1967 said:

Thanks, coilpack is going to be replaced next week - it's on order. Once that's fitted and checked, we'll see whether to buy an ECT Sensor.

So you didn't get it scanned or tried to start it without sensor?

2 hours ago, Papez said:

So you didn't get it scanned or tried to start it without sensor?

No, unfortunately I had to go to work and the mechanic visited when my Son was at home, so evidently, he couldn't scan it for some reason, and since the sensor sits on top of the engine, and has a yellow ring, I thought I'd just replace it anyway, with a blue ringed one, as has been suggested by those more learned than me. 🙂

5 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

with a blue ringed one, as has been suggested by those more learned than me.

I dont agree with that

48 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I dont agree with that

So I should buy the yellow ringed one then? TBH, I might have gotten a bit confused with all the guidance on the ECT Sensor.... ☹️😁

35 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

So I should buy the yellow ringed one then? TBH, I might have gotten a bit confused with all the guidance on the ECT Sensor

Buy the color you have; other colors just show lower gauge temp. Blue-collar temp sensors are for factory-installed DIAVIA AC systems, and not dealer-fitted ALEX units.

Little bit of difference to wording from me, buy the correct part to application, the part that is fitted now could be an incorrect or inappropriate part replaced previously.

Edited 12 January12 Jan by nta16

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Little bit of difference to wording from me, buy the correct part to application, the part that is fitted now could be an incorrect or inappropriate part replaced previously.

Thanks, that was my concern - how to find the correct part to application though?

Research, experience, trial and error - and then things change, a former good manufacturer and/or supplier no longer is or for that particular part perhaps and on the other side a former poor manufacturer and/or supplier can improve (sometimes).

You are doing a fair amount of research which is good (obviously, as much as possible, better done before considering getting the vehicle) are you also encouraging or allowing your son to do so too, not one of theses dad's that pretend buys the toys for the kid(s) or still spoon feeds the kid(s) (obviously I cleaned that bit up 😀). Learning by others experiences, and mistakes, is often more efficient and saves frustration, time and money but they are remembered more when you actually go through them for yourself (until you forget). Hands-on experience is definitely needed with old and new cars, with hand not powered tools too, things like how tight so as it doesn't come loose or you break it. Now it seems even though a few screws, bolts, nuts need tightening or loosening a power just has to be used, fair enough for professional that have (hopefully) learnt what they're doing and need the speed to get on to the next job but not for DIYers and especially those that are learning and inexperienced.

Time for tea.

19 hours ago, TonyW1967 said:

Thanks, that was my concern - how to find the correct part to application though?

Give me your ECU part no, and I will tell you if it's yellow or blue.

Simple enough I think

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Give me your ECU part no, and I will tell you if it's yellow or blue.

Simple enough I think

Thank you 🙂 It's a Siemens ECU, and the string of characters across the side reads as thus;

5WP4 326 02 EF SME 811801 F024 0046

That '8' could be a 6 - 811601

Dated 16.03.1998

4 hours ago, TonyW1967 said:

5WP4 326 02 EF SME 811801 F024 0046

Okay the latest and greatest, good, if you have factory AC you are allowed to run blue, if you dont you should run yellow.

You have the I/O for ac if you so wish and the firmware (i.e. you connect a feed line to a specific pin and the ecu is going to initiate AC mode, and it provides a switched ground to cut off the clutch if the coolant temp climbs too high or you ask for full load and high revs)

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Okay the latest and greatest, good, if you have factory AC you are allowed to run blue, if you dont you should run yellow.

You have the I/O for ac if you so wish and the firmware (i.e. you connect a feed line to a specific pin and the ecu is going to initiate AC mode, and it provides a switched ground to cut off the clutch if the coolant temp climbs too high or you ask for full load and high revs)

Thanks, the car doesn't have A/C :-)

Just now, TonyW1967 said:

Thanks, the car doesn't have A/C :-)

Yellow it is then