Hi, has anyone changed there own battery on Skoda superb mk3 has STOP/START. and realize that it has to be coded in.

Car is 2018 so the battery has lasted well, thinking of getting Yuasa EFB096 Start/Stop Battery from Halfords while it is in the sales. Any Thoughts please or recommendations.

That applies to most cars from 2010MY onwards, no one has yet, I think, built up enough data to support that not getting re-coding done saves or costs you more money over the life of that next battery - I just play safe or do as advised and always perform re-coding.

Recoding enables the energy management system to take into account the new battery state.

For instance, if your old battery was only able to deliver, let’s say 85% of its initial state when you removed it, AFAIK if you don’t recode the system, your new battery won’t get higher than these 85%of the old one.

This is why recoding makes sense, especially if you install one with a bigger autonomy (78Ah instead of 76Ah if I remember well).

Under normal driving conditions the alternator will only charge the battery to around 75-80% - leaving headspace for regenerative charging during braking/overrun.

Strongly recommend adaptation (coding) of the new battery to the BMS.

Battery Adaptation coding can b done via VCDS or OBDEleven.

This is the coding.....

1 hour ago, JR RS said:

Battery Adaptation coding can b done via VCDS or OBDEleven.

This is the coding.....

This can also be done with CarScanner.

1 hour ago, JR RS said:

Battery Adaptation coding can b done via VCDS or OBDEleven.

This is the coding.....

I'm willing to be proven wrong but my understanding is that a change in "serial" number is important for the computer program to know that a new battery has been fitted, so one of us could have incorrect information.

The "serial" number isn't really a battery serial number as I've seen on Briskoda that the factory entered the "serial" number as ten (or eleven?) ones (1111111111) and that as long as you have the same number of digits (/ character(s)) you can put what you want, most for example just increase the number so ten ones (1111111111) becomes nine ones with a two at the end (1111111112) as with the example for my wife's car below, or some just enter the date of new battery installation (26-11-2025)

VW code for the battery manufacturer seems unimportant - and I'm not sure the need for three characters even matters as I had five characters entered and it doesn't seem to have made any odds after 4 years of daily use of the car.

Below is from when a Briskoda member used OBDEleven to 'code' the change of battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia. -

For those with access to VCDS Vrooom's notes.-

VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

Edited 5 April5 Apr by nta16
typo

Many thanks everyone for the useful information.

As long as you replace the battery with the same type (EFB for EFB or AGM for AGM) of similar size, coding is not really necessary.

If you don't have the tools already it's not worth to buy them just to code the battery.

I just swapped my Octavia battery with a new one.

Stop start worked immediately & it's been fine for the last 4 years.

Gabbo

13 hours ago, Gabbo said:

As long as you replace the battery with the same type (EFB for EFB or AGM for AGM) of similar size, coding is not really necessary.

If you don't have the tools already it's not worth to buy them just to code the battery.

I just swapped my Octavia battery with a new one.

Stop start worked immediately & it's been fine for the last 4 years.

Gabbo

Thanks for the info my battery has failed the test with Topdon BT200 and will still replace it with an EFB but 700A instead of 680A. my only concern is getting the battery in as there isn't much room.. i have a vaws 3.0 to code battery in if needed. Any information to make the job a bit easier is greatly appreciated .

This was exactly the change I made on my Octavia 700Ah for 680Ah.

I've not done it on the superb but the Octavia wasn't too difficult to get it in and out even though it's partially covered by the cowling around

I'm not against not bothering with coding for like-for-like battery change but think it best if reasonably possible to fart about as the German marques, including VA groups, want and 'code' in the new battery when reasonably possible. If you don't have the tool often a place fitting the battery will or you could look for a Briskoda member offering their scan tool use. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

Battery testers seem to be a bit pessimistic about the battery's future, I would want to test the battery disconnected from the car and even then like all "smart" devices they are not smart but very, very dumb only following their programing and electronics with the information at that one point in time. I would not put all my faith in the one time reading of when the battery is low. I have very easily revived batteries others would have just replaced.

But if anyone gains more confidence from replacing the battery that is fine.

Edited 6 April6 Apr by nta16

2 hours ago, Robbo12 said:

will still replace it with an EFB but 700A instead of 680A

Be aware that raw numbers often don't always mean that much, they can look good for sales but a higher number that doesn't last as long may not be as good as a lower number that retains for longer. A better battery will perform better for longer. Also when comparing numbers they need to be from the same system of testing to get those numbers.

1 hour ago, Gabbo said:

700Ah for 680Ah

A typo there you mean 700A for 680A - these figures refer to the CCA (cold cranking amps) rather than amp hour (Ah) capacity of the battery.

Some info if you want it, VW and nta. -

SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf

CarBatteryInformation.pdf

CCAspecs.pdf

Just another question does anyone use a memory saver when disconnecting their car battery to save losing settings such as clock and radio settings if so what type do you use ? I know my cigarette lighter is not permanently live when the ignition is off. And is it wise to connect power to the ODB port without causing ang damage.

I just use a charged AGM jump pack and lead that plugs into the OBD2 port, works fine for me.

I used to use a Draper one that used maybe a PP6 or PP3 battery years ago and connected to the car's battery terminals with crock clips, that worked as well, but probably slightly messier than using the jump pack and a lead that plugs into the OBD2 port.

Edit:- maybe sad to say, but maybe many years ago I used a Draper memory saver that just plugged into the mains, but I'm sure that I gifted that to someone!

Edited 6 April6 Apr by rum4mo

I didn't do it when I changed my battery and there were no problems.

I just opened the bonnet, turned off the ignition and waited a bit of time until all the noises stopped from the engine bay.

No settings were lost and everything worked fine on the next start without doing anything to the car.

Before disconnecting the battery make sure all windows and sunroof are fully shut and all electric items are switched off. In the 'Owner's Manual' is says about needing code for radio but it seems that is wrong by all the reports from owners I've seen.

You do loose trip (mileage) memories, though I've no idea about mpg memory or for electric chairs.

Losing the "current" MPG would annoy me (sorry).

On a sensible note, I'm sure that I've read that the general advise is unplug the BMS lead first from that dongle, and only refit it after the two main battery leads have been fitted to the new battery.

8 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Losing the "current" MPG would annoy me (sorry).

No need to be sorry, that's fine if MPG reports are important to anyone, I would only want to know about such as regards to the engine and rest of the car running about how it normally does so a very occasional pen and paper check in the old days but as the Fabia is my wife's car she'll know generally about the car's usual MPG.

13 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

On a sensible note, I'm sure that I've read that the general advise is unplug the BMS lead first from that dongle, and only refit it after the two main battery leads have been fitted to the new battery.

No, I've never seen that and can't imagine (tho' as you know I am often wrong) that it would be necessary or of any use and there is no mention of such in any of the 'Owner's Manuals' that I have noticed. If the connector is off you can leave it off if you want during disconnection and reconnect and if the connector is connected it can remain so during disconnection and reconnection.

BTW I thought you were one of the members that had the battery monitor connector disconnected, for a couple years and IIRC reconnecting it for services/MoT(?). But as you also know my memory isn't the best.

I didn't disconnect the battery monitor connector when I changed the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 4-5 years ago and there seems to have been no detrimental effects.

No, I’ve never left that lead off, though I did discover that it was disconnected some days after the car had been into its supplying VW main dealership for warranty work - replacing the gearbox mounting. That lead being left off did explain why Auto Stop/Start, when allowed/enabled, no longer worked as intended.

Many apologies, my faulty memory again, I must be mixing you up with someone else then.

On 06/04/2026 at 23:40, Robbo12 said:

Just another question does anyone use a memory saver when disconnecting their car battery to save losing settings such as clock and radio settings if so what type do you use ? I know my cigarette lighter is not permanently live when the ignition is off. And is it wise to connect power to the ODB port without causing ang damage.

Memory saver is not necessary. The system is clever enough to reinitialize everything properly. You just need to drive for 400-500m (or 1/4 mile) to have all fault codes vanishing from your dashboard. They'll just be logged. But you can delete them from all concerned Control Units memory with VCDS, if you want.

This being said, if you use a memory saver, it could possibly prevent you from having this "Xmas tree" effect on your dashboard upon engine start, once the new battery has been connected.

If you are 'coding' the new battery with an appropriate scan tool you can just delete all errors codes, the next drive after this will prevent any erroneous error codes showing up, actual issue error codes will of course return if they don't relate to the previous battery being too low for computer systems.

8 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Memory saver is not necessary. The system is clever enough to reinitialize everything properly. You just need to drive for 400-500m (or 1/4 mile) to have all fault codes vanishing from your dashboard. They'll just be logged. But you can delete them from all concerned Control Units memory with VCDS, if you want.

This being said, if you use a memory saver, it could possibly prevent you from having this "Xmas tree" effect on your dashboard upon engine start, once the new battery has been connected.

Thank You

Update, changed my battery today with no problems. i registered the new battery with mu icarsoft Vaws 3.0 , i started by turning off radio and heater. after reconnecting the new battery i didn't lose any radio presets, only thing i lost was the trip meter. also after turning steering wheel fully to left and right cleared any warning lights on dash.

Taken it for a drive and all seems well apart from the STOP/START doesn't seem to be working properly at the moment, but been told it can take a while for the ECU to learn a new battery has been fitted. Anyone else came across that ?

Would like to thank you all for the information you have given me.