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Fabia wishbone bush replacement DIY Guide


vrsfab

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Thats a bit of a trek.. :)

It would probably work out cheaper to get some made...

If you contact ebay member: eBay My World - kingdomfife7 and ask him to make you some he probably will:)

I asked him for "2 off 8mm thick mild steel disc 61mm diameter 12.5mm central hole. 2 off 8mm thick mild steel disc 71mm diameter 12.5mm central hole"

I paid him 15 quid for two sets including delivery which took 3 weeks or so and then got the High Tensile bolts from the local Cromwell Tools Cromwell Industrial Tools UK: Discount Prices For Power Tools, Hand Tools and Cutting Tools - Free Next Day Delivery for 50p a pop. I wouldnt risk it with non HT bolts.

Hope that helps:)

Matt

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Jimboy26

I'm making up the 'screw press' discs at the moment to do the bushes on my son's car. I'll be doing it in the next week or two (no longer than 2 weeks). If you are prepared to wait till I've done the job I'll post the tool to you and you can use it and post it back. The bits don't weigh much so post is unlikely to be any more than £5.

Cheers.

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Good Guide, many thanks.

BUT My advice to anyone thinking of using the powerflex/cupra bush I would heavily suggest they don't, Skoda use the parts they use (as ever) for good reason..

I have found it to make it Very uncomfortably Boomy to my ears at low revs forcing me to make each gear change higher up(above 2,300rpm) to avoid this loud noise and it's causing my more gear changes.

The wheels seem to follow the camber too heavily now, wanting to head even more so towards the curb (and yep I have been professionally aligned - twice) I have 2 identical fabia's both 1.9td estates. so I'm instantly able to feel and hear the difference or right and wrong.

I'm now about to buy some fabia original gear, original suspension arms and the proper non totally soild type(X-pattern)

I wonder if the cupra diesels is this noisy at low revs?

Cars always seem to be about compromise so you can either have bushes that are a nightmare to live with + last forever or the factory fit ones that drive well but last 55-60k, the choice is yours, but I feel exhausted and wish I'd just given it to the garage for the standard stuff, you have been warned!

RUBBER IS BEST.

Edited by Gman1978
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I fitted the Cupra bushes to my Daughter's Polo TDI Sport.

She really likes the change to the feel, which is significant.

Even though the front suspension bounces around in response to the very poor road surfaces we have in the UK, the car holds its line and doesn't wander off-course as it used to.

The new bushes look like they'll last a lot longer than the originals.

There is a bit of a shock transmitted to the cabin when she goes over really deep potholes, which used to be more insulated before.

The real benefit is on motorways. The steering precision is transformed. It seems stuck to the road. Absolutely planted and doesn't deviate from the chosen line or be affected by cross-winds.

I will be fitting a pair of these bushes in my own Polo TDI Twist, early next year and would recommend doing so.

If you fitted them and don't like them, it's only a couple of hours work to change back to the standard ones.

Horses for courses, I guess.

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Gman1978 have you been told how your rear wheels are in relation to the toe setting?

If one is out (like mine and a few others on here) then you will not be going straight no matter how many times you have the front set. There is a guide on technical guides for proper alignment of rear axle.

Also if you still have the same tyres on the front that you drove with the original bushes then the wear on them could be causing it? One of my original bushes used to sit in the middle while the other was way off to the side.

I have been thru all of the above and now my car is going straight and I love it again :D

Also I should say that after a few times of trying to make the car work at toe set to zero (front wheels) I have gone to factory settings (toe in 1mm) and its all good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having now changed a few of these front suspension bushes (2 Polos, 2 Fabias and a SEAT Ibiza) my honest opinion now is that its easier to do it with the console removed.

To remove the console (takes about 15 mins):

1. Undo the 3x 13mm AF bolts holding the wishbone to the lower balljoint.

2. Remove the wishbone front bush bolt (18mm AF bolt which fits horizontally).

3. Remove 2x 16mm bolts holding console assy to chassis

4. Remove 2x 13mm bolts holding front ARB saddle clamp to console assy.

5 Remove 2x 18mm bolts holding console to chassis

The console assy then just pulls free.

Cutting out the old rear bushes is then dead easy, as is fitting the new Cupra ones since you can do it in a vice with easy access. Pushing the arm into the new Cupra bushes is also dead easy - just put the console on the floor with the bush facing upwards and simply push the hex pin on the arm into the bush - it goes in easily and without breaking sweat! Then simply fit the console complete with wishbone.

I am doubtful of the benefit of replacing the front arm bushes with Powerflex items. The OE items seem as hard as iron (probably harder that the polyurethane bushes!) and even on one car with over 100k were totally without deterioration. I did replace them as a matter of course though (they are only £3.95+VAT from AVS VW Spares). With the console out its also dead easy to replace the ARB bushes, they are only a couple of pounds each.

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Where does that leave you with front suspension alignment?

When you put the console back, how do you ensure that it is exactly in position?

I could not see any means of positive location and toyed with the idea of drawing around the console with a felt tip pen, but it seems a bit vague for such a critical component.

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Where does that leave you with front suspension alignment?

When you put the console back, how do you ensure that it is exactly in position?

I could not see any means of positive location and toyed with the idea of drawing around the console with a felt tip pen, but it seems a bit vague for such a critical component.

On both cars where I removed the consoles the alignment afterwards was spot-on. I took both cars to Leicester 4-wheel alignment centre, where they use a sophisticated 'Jim Bean' optical aligner. On one car the NS camber was close to its limit (but still within factory tolerance) and of course may have been so prior to me working on it.

When refitting the consoles I put ALL the bolts in finger-tight and then progressively nip them up, before final torquing. I think this allows everything to centre.

I'll admit with the first one I did expect to need major alignment work, but I guess all the bolts do locate the console sufficiently accurately to stay within factory tolerance. I can't imagine the guys at the factory fiddling around loosening bolts and moving the consoles about. They must just put the bolts in and do them up!

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Gman1978 have you been told how your rear wheels are in relation to the toe setting?

If one is out (like mine and a few others on here) then you will not be going straight no matter how many times you have the front set. There is a guide on technical guides for proper alignment of rear axle.

Also if you still have the same tyres on the front that you drove with the original bushes then the wear on them could be causing it? One of my original bushes used to sit in the middle while the other was way off to the side.

I have been thru all of the above and now my car is going straight and I love it again :D

Also I should say that after a few times of trying to make the car work at toe set to zero (front wheels) I have gone to factory settings (toe in 1mm) and its all good.

Thanks for rep Veekar, I'm currently ordering rubber bits to do put it back to factory, it's way too noisy for me.

As for the steering its now going straight and the wheel is straight too (i had to take off the wheel and turn it a notch). it does still pull to the left and is effected by the camber but I'm putting that down to the very solid bushes at the mo.

As for the rear setting, I'm scared to touch that and do not understand why that would of changed? I think I saw the guide with some VW blue plastic measuring tool, looked mighty complex, i was left feelin' confused as to what how and why so I was like ...yeah Screw that!

cheers

G

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  • 2 weeks later...

A company called Flo-Flex are selling complete sets of Polyurethane bushes for the fabia/polo front wishbone that they manufacture on ebay.

They have a web site but do not currently list them on their web site.

The front wishbone bushes are split in a similar manner to the powerflex bushes

The rear wishbone bushes are solid polyurethane like the cupra bushes and not like the powerflex udder type.

Thought this may be of interest to anyone contemplating changing these bushes.

Dougal

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A company called Flo-Flex are selling complete sets of Polyurethane bushes for the fabia/polo front wishbone that they manufacture on ebay.

They have a web site but do not currently list them on their web site.

The front wishbone bushes are split in a similar manner to the powerflex bushes

The rear wishbone bushes are solid polyurethane like the cupra bushes and not like the powerflex udder type.

Thought this may be of interest to anyone contemplating changing these bushes.

Dougal

Good find Dougal, any brave volunteers to give them a try?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I hope I've posted in the correct place...

This is an excellent guide I feel sorely tempted to have a go at doing this to myself,it looks do able. Would probably be replacing the front bushes with the powerflex ones at the same time. The car has just had a service and the Skoda garage recommended that the console bushes were changed sooner rather than later, however they quoted £170+ to fit which would be the replacement Skoda ones with the 4 voids....

Anyway I was wondering if anyone on here had the console bush fitting tool available for loan or to buy. I am based near Junction 9 M25.

Many thanks

Tim

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No. The standard bushes are encased in nylon, so they just push in by hand + Fairy liquid.

The Cupra ones are aluminium encased and hence you got a lot of stiction in an aluminium casting.

To be honest, I'm not too bothered about the handling and seeing how these standard ones lasted 90k, think i'll just get them to fit the same.

Thanks,

Ben

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the guide, I changed mine over the weekend for Cupra console and powerflex wishbone items. Weekend being the operative word as I had no end of problems due to the lack of a wratchet strap lol

I tackled mine by removing the console and wishbone together which was simple enough bar the two bolts securing the arb saddle to the console, well, one per side where access was limited due to the driveshaft. Removal of the old bushes was straightforward as was fitting the new ones, the problems arised when I came to refit the console and wishbone back on the car. It was nigh on impossible to get them on together as for some reason the console bush kept pushing the hex peg on the wishbone out meaning that by the time I had got the parts in place, when I came to offer up the wishbone into its front mount it wouldn't fit. Nightmare lol

Anyways, main thing is its done now and what a improvement it has made. Fair enough there is a little more vibration transmitted through the cabin when the engine is at lower revs but not a major issue. The handling has been transformed and is much more positive. Vague handling is no more and its nice not to be blown everywhere due a cross wind, I must recommend this mod to those thinking about doing it!

Edited by tom_beverley
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  • 1 month later...

Having just replace the rear wisbone bushes on my polo 9n using this excellent guide I just though I post a couple of things for anyone else.

1. The 2 x 61 mm spacers fit in the console housing to centre the incomming bush. Obvious to many maybe but I struggled for 30 mins before I realised WHAT A NUMPTY I was being LOL

2. Another numpty moment here I didn't pack the gap between the 71mm spacer (which pushes in the bush) and the bush rubber. So all the force was on the nylon around the bush and guess what? Yep I split it!! Second attempt packed it with washers so some of the load went on the rubber too.

Once I put my thinking head on it took about 1hr 30 per side and no proplems. The lubricant from vw was £8 but well worth it. £50 for the whole job inc the manual. :thumbup: The garage wanted £200 +

Brilliant Post!!

Edited by VimVanZanten
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Well finshed mine on saturday. Just have to say thanks for this thread and also Graham for lending me the Laser bush tool.

Ok so my experience. With the laser tool you have to remove the console to fit the bush but using the laser tool removing and fitting the new bush is dead simple. Passenger side wishbone bolt had been cross threaded in the past so I snapped it clean off and had to buy a new console from skoda :(

All in all it probably took me about 10 hours (trying to cut corners but as we all know its never the best way and ends up taking longer) Its a pretty striaght forward job which becomes a pain when things dont go to plain like cross threaded bolts. :(

Edited by faboka vrs
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if anyone has suggested this one but instead of the Supra rubbers you could use:

Audi A2 solid rear wishbone rubbers which look exactly the same as the Supra ones.

Part no: 8Z0 407 183

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  • 1 month later...

PB300050.jpg

im just wondering.... looking at the "hex hole" in the bushing.... i take it that the orientation of the hole matters?... that is, you can see in the pic the the bottom of the hex hole ( the flat bit of the hex) is more or less horizontal with the ground... but if it was put in so that the pointed bit of the hex was pointing at the ground surely that would effect the install if the hex pin and if when the other consule bush was installed on the other side, care must be taken the the orientation is the same as the first..... or does it matter ?

Edited by mudyf0x
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