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Calling all members of the 300+ BHP club


Octavia Vrs!

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what i'm getting at steve is maybe your setup isn't best suited to FWD seeing as you can make it spin the wheels in the dry even with an LSD pretty much at the highest speed limit in the country :)

if yours is able to spin the wheels at that speed then surely it can do it easier at lower speeds?

by the sounds of it you would benefit from a little less midrange torque to make it more easily controlled as it must be a nightmare in the wet.

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what i'm getting at steve is maybe your setup isn't best suited to FWD seeing as you can make it spin the wheels in the dry even with an LSD pretty much at the highest speed limit in the country :)

if yours is able to spin the wheels at that speed then surely it can do it easier at lower speeds?

by the sounds of it you would benefit from a little less midrange torque to make it more easily controlled as it must be a nightmare in the wet.

It can be a real handful in the wet, but I just turn the boost down and am very careful how I drive - I never really use more than half throttle or go much above 3k. Boost comes in at 3k and pulls very hard to around 5.5k where it shoots up again by 3-4 psi up until 7.4k at 22-23psi.

Mine certainly has more clout above 5k, however it doesn't exactly lack below. I have driven other cars with the emphasis on the top end and I don't like that, my gear ratios work very nicely too with my current set up.

My front tyres are very nearly fooked again, that doesn't help matters either!!:o

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It can be a real handful in the wet, but I just turn the boost down and am very careful how I drive - I never really use more than half throttle or go much above 3k. Boost comes in at 3k and pulls very hard to around 5.5k where it shoots up again by 3-4 psi up until 7.4k at 22-23psi.

Mine certainly has more clout above 5k, however it doesn't exactly lack below. I have driven other cars with the emphasis on the top end and I don't like that, my gear ratios work very nicely too with my current set up.

My front tyres are very nearly fooked again, that doesn't help matters either!!:o

Treat these with respect in standing water & they are fine, I have a few friends who run them on Porsche GT3's & they havent fallen off the road yet

Toyo Tire :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

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Treat these with respect in standing water & they are fine, I have a few friends who run them on Porsche GT3's & they havent fallen off the road yet

Toyo Tire :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Not good at top speed given steve's derv box. :eek:

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This is an interesting thread.

I know my Vrs is standard but the V8 isn't. Shortly it's going to be pushing something in the region of 450bhp and I'm dropping weight off it as well.

I agree with steve in that it is how you drive it that is important. In the wet I can spin the wheels in every single gear and therefore have to be a bit careful. However with care I can push it quite well for legal road speeds ..... In the dry I can still light it up but I have to want to do that.

It's a small advantage being mid engined and rwd but hey..

I would have thought your vrs's would be similar in that if you nailed the throttle to the floor it will light the tyres easily. If you feed the power in properly it should just fly???

Even my standard car spins in the wet if I floor it too hard.

Just my 2p

Cheers

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Hi Guys

I bought Qs car and with the little time ive had with her i am well pleased. On low boost at 277bhp ive found she drives very well ok you can smoke the tyres if inclined but just feed the power in and a very satisfied :D happens

I ran a 1999 Evo 6 with 345bhp for 6 months and i know which car i prefer :thumbup:

Steve

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:rofl:

Must admitgiven the choice i would have an evo over anycar that truly is a car that is driveable everyday and can embaress all but high end supercars and in the wet forget it you cant touch an evo

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:rofl:

Must admitgiven the choice i would have an evo over anycar that truly is a car that is driveable everyday and can embaress all but high end supercars and in the wet forget it you cant touch an evo

Unless youve got pockets as deep as the Grand Canyon take a Skoda anytime, besides everyone wants to try it on when in an EVO and it gets very boring

Steve

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I would have the Skoda, for me its the reverse snobery thing. The first year I went the Nurburgring I was chatting to a friend in the car park and a guy comes up to us. "So your English guys, what are you driving?" I replied "a Skoda Octavia Vrs". Anyway he looked down his nose at me and says "well mines the Porsche over there". What a git!

Anyway the next lap i went flying past him through a series of my favorite bends towards the end of the lap hanging it out to dry. He runs over to me in the car park and goes "Jesus Christ what have you done to that?" I replyed "nothing - its standard". The colour drained from his face and he walked away the colour of boiled s*it! AV IT!

The following year it wasn't so standard and was much quicker embarasing some stuff that should have been passing me.

Imagine the IHI'd skoda :P

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I wouldn't big turbo any front wheel drive Octy again. I've considered buying a 4x4 Octy so many times its un true. The idea of big power is very attractive, but you'll never have a minutes peace. There is always something breaking like Des says and I think Eddie's had slightly more than a hose pop off.;)

If you are detemined to do it, go to a good tuner and drive their demo car. Don't forget that APR have right hand drive kits available now to fit yourself. Probably one of the most reliable and well researched kits out there.

Also remember the running costs, more oil changes and my car will average 6 mpg when giving it the beans.

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I wouldn't big turbo any front wheel drive Octy again. I've considered buying a 4x4 Octy so many times its un true. The idea of big power is very attractive, but you'll never have a minutes peace. There is always something breaking like Des says and I think Eddie's had slightly more than a hose pop off.;)

If you are detemined to do it, go to a good tuner and drive their demo car. Don't forget that APR have right hand drive kits available now to fit yourself. Probably one of the most reliable and well researched kits out there.

Also remember the running costs, more oil changes and my car will average 6 mpg when giving it the beans.

I wouldnt totally agree, things will break but its normally because you have hoped to get away with it, ie more power & hope a std gearbox & internals will take it, they wont. You need to have deep enough pockets to build it properly the first time. My 4x4 is a mere 350 bhp but I have spent a fortune on the mechanicals, brakes, suspension etc getting as many things as possible right. Im guessing I have spent over 25K & when I sell it shortly I will cry at what I get but I have had a load of fun & have a very reliable easy to drive car.

As for economy when driven gently I can easily see around 40 mpg, more than the std 4x4 ever managed. The worst I have ever got is 8 mpg & that was on the track.

I would agree that big power & FWD is a handful. Im about to go big power RWD but the 4x4 will be kept for a few weeks just in case I cant get on with it.

I agree with the driving demo cars bit & DONT just drive it hard, try gentle driving, take it through a busy town. Accelerate from very low revs in high gears, the power delivery should be smooth etc etc. Many tuners can make a car go quickly & achieve headline power figures but you need a smooth drive, little hicks & flat spots will become a pain over time as will all the power coming in with a bang. If they say its a fault with the demo car say you will try it again when its sorted before you buy. Remember if your car is a lot less power than the car you are testing anything will feel quick but it needs to be driveable & smooth as well.

The answer to a quick car is research, research & research, blag rides in tuned cars, dont just listen to your mates & remember if someones shelled out a pile on their car whatever they have bought is odds on to be the best as far as they are concerned. I had a lot of talk about other tuners being the best but ended up with Jabba & they built me a fantastic car, 4 cannonballs (best finish 2nd) & 2 Furballs later & I still love the car but Im another power junky so just need to try more & sadly Skoda dont have a platform to give me that easily without another massive outlay.

Stuart

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I agree with pretty much everything you have said Stuart, I've also spent much more than most people think big turbo conversions cost but I've been very happy and don't plan on getting rid of mine ever at the moment.

I had quite a few test drives and actually did more town type driving than fast driving as I wanted to make sure it would be driveable everyday. As you know I went with JBS and was initially put off a big turbo when I went out in their demo car on the original GT28RS however a year or so later I drove it with a spec very similar to what I now have and knew it was exactly what I wanted. I never went out in Jabba's own demo car as I knew I would never use them due to my own personal experiences, however I have been in some of their customers cars.

I'm impressed with your mpg figures I get nowhere near that in reality however I do get similar figures on the trip computer due to the errors introduced by the larger injectors and increased fuel pressure. I typically get 300miles from 60ish litres with a mixture of driving.

A large unexpected running cost for me is front brake pads at £200 a time every 6 months. I also still suffer coil pack failures which seem no more reliable on the latest revision than they were at the time of all the bad publicity about them.

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I'm impressed with your mpg figures I get nowhere near that in reality however I do get similar figures on the trip computer due to the errors introduced by the larger injectors and increased fuel pressure. I typically get 300miles from 60ish litres with a mixture of driving.

A large unexpected running cost for me is front brake pads at £200 a time every 6 months. I also still suffer coil pack failures which seem no more reliable on the latest revision than they were at the time of all the bad publicity about them.

OOps, forgot about adjusting the figures so proabaly as yours. I never bother to check the mpg on a tank, just fill when empty. I did however get 45 on the trip once when nursing a knackered clutch for 200 miles, couldnt go much over 70 though:mad::mad:.

Re brakes I usually get through a set of pads in about 9 months & 2 sets to a new disc so agreed not cheap but a kin sight cheaper than a friends Porsche :D:D.

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bloody hell eddy those brakes sound expensive!

Tell me about it. :(

Problem is ECS wouldn't supply me just the rotors last time and insisted I changed the bells too, I'm hoping I can just get the rotors this time to reduce the cost.

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Tell me about it. :(

Problem is ECS wouldn't supply me just the rotors last time and insisted I changed the bells too, I'm hoping I can just get the rotors this time to reduce the cost.

Try Ian Godney at Godspeed, He can machine any bell or Rotor you want & I find him cheaper than just about anywhere, If its a special & you have an old one he can use it as a pattern. He built my kit & is always happy to supply just the Rotors. You can also specify different patterns of grooves or holes. I go with gently curved grooves that seem to work well yet are a lot quieter than straight crooves

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