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HID Aftermaket kit - Help for definitive how to


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Has anybody checked that the bulb failure warning light still comes on for the other bulbs after the coding mods?

Just a thought

Richard

After this coding change, if you unplug the ballasts then it will generate a bulb error on the dash. Proves the CCM is still checking but is now happy with the ballasts instad of throwing a fault.

Has anybody had a set on an MOT light pattern tester to see how the beam pattern scatter looks compare to the Halogen bulbs ?

Beam pattern is the same a halogen, except for a rather nice light spectrum at the cutoff of blue/white B)

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When parked after returning from work I face my garage door. I can definitely say they actually give a cleaner pattern than normal bulbs with a very sharply defined cutoff with no halo, colour or blurring (4300K)

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Has anybody checked that the bulb failure warning light still comes on for the other bulbs after the coding mods?

Just a thought

Richard

Not sure how relevant this is but my pre FL occasionally throws a N/S dipped bulb warning only if I leave the auto lights on at shutdown. Mostly goes if I drive around for a while with the dipped beam on.

So the bulb warnings still work on the preFL anyway.

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After this coding change, if you unplug the ballasts then it will generate a bulb error on the dash. Proves the CCM is still checking but is now happy with the ballasts instad of throwing a fault.

Beam pattern is the same a halogen, except for a rather nice light spectrum at the cutoff of blue/white B)

Have you actually checked that, as the light source is in a different place now and is a point not linear source.

I ask as the short really high output halogen bulbs can cause issues, so I'm sure these can too.

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Is it obvious which way around the spade connectors should be connected. Red for live, black for neutral or is the headlight loom blue and brown?

Black and brown of which the red live goes to black which surprised me. I connected them the wrong way first.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Coded B19 RAK's HID's, LED number plate bulbs and Oil Temp Display in Maxidot today.

RAK's spec:

  • MY2012 vRS Blackline
  • 4300k London Colour Non-Canbus HID kit
  • ECU 1K0-937-087-AD

Coded successfully by changing the binary in BYTE 14 BIT 4

Big thanks to Jonny5ive. Also got my LED numberplate lights and oil temp done.

Thanks to Xpower and Gizmo for offering to help.

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I take it this is the way to do it? i have a 2010 VRS, all i need to do tomorow is change my binary code to 10010001?

Thanks guys, well actually i dont want cornering fog lights so it would be 00010001 for me right?

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Just took the car down a dark country lane. All I can say is WOW. What a difference!

Got any pics of the hid install mate?

Does the projectors in the blackline give a nice light output without too much scatter?

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Got any pics of the hid install mate?

Does the projectors in the blackline give a nice light output without too much scatter?

Really not hard to do. Follow the headlight removal guide in the technical section and google mk 5 golf hid upgrade on YouTube to get an idea of the wiring. Took me about 45 mins start to finish. Hardest thing was trying to organise the coding!

No scatter with the projectors. Nice straight beams.

Consider the rear LEDs too. Do look really cool against the race blue paint.

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  • 2 weeks later...

great thread this. I'm just about to order a set for my 2012 Elegance. Will the long coding fix cover you for fitting an HID High beam too? Or is that not an OEM option?

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great thread this. I'm just about to order a set for my 2012 Elegance. Will the long coding fix cover you for fitting an HID High beam too? Or is that not an OEM option?

Not an option as far as I am aware, the option was only ever Bi-xenon on a golf (same) which utilises the same hid projector for dip and main, this is what I've installed on my octy.

Problem is with separate HID in the main, the warm up time really doesn't make them very good :-(

Bi-xenon on the other hand (good set like Hella or Bosch, not Chinese projectors) are truly amazing with no delay.

If you did want to still do HID's in the main beam (say you do a lot of night driving where you don't see anyone for ages) then you will need the ones labeled 'Canbus compatible' which is a lie as the bulbs dont operate on any CAN network but we won't go there - lol :-)

Let us know how you get on!

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Got any pics of the hid install mate?

Does the projectors in the blackline give a nice light output without too much scatter?

Here is a pic of mine

Lighting is spot on.

WP_000012-1.jpg

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I have them exact ones seem decent just waiting for my canbus error cancellors

You don't need any cancellors. Just code to suit

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I know but can't get anyone to code them for me so had to go for the cancellors not a good option but no choice

Whereabouts are you?

Have you looked on the VCDS owners map?

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