Never mind, wires were wrong way around LOL!!

Works a treat now!!!

Another set of non canbus londoncolor kits fitted to my 13, reg vrs.
No errors.

Fitted 5k's this time.

Another set of non canbus londoncolor kits fitted to my 13, reg vrs.

No errors.

Fitted 5k's this time.

Do you have any photos of your installation particularly where and how you mounted the ballasts?

Do you have any photos of your installation particularly where and how you mounted the ballasts?

 

Hi,

Yes,

I mounterd them in exactly the same place as I did on my last 2 vRS octys

Pictured here >

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264447-hid-aftermaket-kit-help-for-definitive-how-to/?p=3185925

Never mind, wires were wrong way around LOL!!

Works a treat now!!!

Does that mean you connected red to black and black to brown to get it working? 

 

 

Hi,

Yes,

I mounterd them in exactly the same place as I did on my last 2 vRS octys

Pictured here >

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264447-hid-aftermaket-kit-help-for-definitive-how-to/?p=3185925

Hi vectra1, I have been following this thread for sometime now and decided to go for the same 4300k HIDs from London color. Coded the car last night- bi xenon with additional beam installed and got CH/LH lights from Fogs. Thanks to you and Alberg!

 

Question-

How do you draw the wire from the HID bulb to the ballast outside? There is the rubber cap that closes the low beam housing- do you make a hole in it? 

 

I don't have the kit with me yet so no wiring diagram. A pic showing the wire from ballast to bulb housing would be appreciated. Thanks bud!

I remove the rubber cap from the headlamp

I get a socket as close to the size of the grommet that comes with the kit (Smaller than the outer diameter )

Put the rubber cap on the ground, place the socket central on the rubber and smack it a few times while holding it steady,

This creates indents on the rubber, then just carefully peel away the piece which will leave a nice round hole for you.

If I have some at hand I would put a small amount of black sealer around the grommet and leave to set a little while.

That's great. I was going to use a blade to cut out a similar sized hole, but let me try this. 

 

I almost jumped the gun and bought D1S bulbs, Hella ballasts and a Kufatech adapter thinking it would be a straight swap to get OEM xenons but realized that the D1S will not fit into the halogen housing! Well, London color HID kit for now until I can afford a new set of OEM headlights. 

 

Thanks mate.

When I say smack it, I did mean hit the socket with a hammer.

I just got my kit from London Color. I have a few questions on how the HID kit may or may no effect the below-

 

Usage of HID kit and Auto light switch? Is it safe for the HIDs to keep coming on and off as I have coming home/leaving home lights activated with the auto light switch. Or should I switch the CH/LH to the fogs?

 

 

Anyone experience any errors with the HID kit while running LED DRLs also? 

 

I already have the car coded for the HIDs.

Edited 1 November, 201312 yr by mmafreak

I just got my kit from London Color. I have a few questions on how the HID kit may or may no effect the below-

 

Usage of HID kit and Auto light switch? Is it safe for the HIDs to keep coming on and off as I have coming home/leaving home lights activated with the auto light switch. Or should I switch the CH/LH to the fogs?

 

 

Anyone experience any errors with the HID kit while running LED DRLs also? 

 

I already have the car coded for the HIDs.

Hi,

 

I too have auto lights and CH/LH 

 

No problems with the auto lights

 

I di code the fogs as ch/lh

 

No errors with drl's

Likewise I coded my CH/LH to use the fogs one less fire-up per use in the Winter is the way that I saw it - having said that my 8P A3 had OEM HIDS and they were used for the CH/LH lights without issue.

After driving all over the country in the last week with a fair bit of night driving with standard lamps (not the brightest) decided I must do somthing about it.

Reading this thread I have just ordered from London color, the hid kit with 5000k lamps for £22.99 incl p&p (bargain)!

May have to drive around for a while with a bulb fault showing, unless there is anyone around the Plymouth area with vcds?

Excellent thread with good info, I was going to spend almost as much as this for some standard ultra bright halogens.

Cheers

Just a thought;

Do you all drive around with a spare hid lamp & ballast in case of a failure?

Edited 1 November, 201312 yr by Defenderben

No!

After driving all over the country in the last week with a fair bit of night driving with standard lamps (not the brightest) decided I must do somthing about it.

Reading this thread I have just ordered from London color, the hid kit with 5000k lamps for £22.99 incl p&p (bargain)!

May have to drive around for a while with a bulb fault showing, unless there is anyone around the Plymouth area with vcds?

Excellent thread with good info, I was going to spend almost as much as this for some standard ultra bright halogens.

Cheers

Just a thought;

Do you all drive around with a spare hid lamp & ballast in case of a failure?

You do understand coding is needed or these will not work?

Unless you bought the canbus kit which would be ill advised

Hi Vectra1.

Understand now you have pointed that out, I misunderstood, thought that it would throw up bulb errors but still work in the meantime :(

Bugger need to find a vcds person before I do final connections, at least I can get the ballasts mounted in the meantime.

Cheers

Hi Vectra1.

Understand now you have pointed that out, I misunderstood, thought that it would throw up bulb errors but still work in the meantime :(

Bugger need to find a vcds person before I do final connections, at least I can get the ballasts mounted in the meantime.

Cheers

Have you looked through the list of vcds owners?

There may be one member living in your vicinity that would gladly look after for you.

Just done the 4300 kit on my car.  Thought i would add the below just as any extra info may be useful as this is the definitive how to.

 

Dummy guide to VCDS programming (used on a MY07)

 

Credit to "mikeholroyd" for the below.

Connect the VCDS to the car, switch on ignition, open VCDS on the laptop and open controller 09 central electronics.  Go to long coding then Byte 2 and untick the box bit 2 for cold lamp diagnostics.Then go to Byte 3 and tick box bit 4 for xenons without shutters. Close controller down and unplug VCDS.Job done.

 

Pics of ballast installation using velcro in rear of light unit.

[url=http://s953.photobucket.com/user/bestyuk/media/lamp.jpg.html][/url

Edited 11 November, 201312 yr by bestyuk

I see it is very easy Pre-FL to hide the ballast inside the plastic clip ion cover, has anyone with a FL hidden the ballast inside the unit? On my last VRs I mounted them on the outside and had to fudge the light cover over the wire as I didn't want to cut the large grommet.

Credit to "mikeholroyd" for the below.

Connect the VCDS to the car, switch on ignition, open VCDS on the laptop and open controller 09 central electronics.  Go to long coding then Byte 2 and untick the box bit 2 for cold lamp diagnostics.Then go to Byte 3 and tick box bit 4 for xenons without shutters. Close controller down and unplug VCDS.Job done.

 

I didn't untick the cold lamp diagnosis, just ticked the xenons without shutters.

I see it is very easy Pre-FL to hide the ballast inside the plastic clip ion cover, has anyone with a FL hidden the ballast inside the unit? On my last VRs I mounted them on the outside and had to fudge the light cover over the wire as I didn't want to cut the large grommet.

I fitted the London Colour kit inside the headlamp housing on my FL without a problem

I fitted the London Colour kit inside the headlamp housing on my FL without a problem

No issues with heat off the ballasts? How did you secure the ballast inside the light unit?

They don't seem to get that hot and I used some Velcro to secure them to the bottom of the housing. There isn't a great deal of room but it all fits in and I've had them in since Feb without trouble. I did check them after they had been in a while and there was no evidence of any issues

They don't seem to get that hot and I used some Velcro to secure them to the bottom of the housing. There isn't a great deal of room but it all fits in and I've had them in since Feb without trouble. I did check them after they had been in a while and there was no evidence of any issues

 

 

Got any pic of it?

Might move mine inside as well

Would need to get new rubbers for the lamps as I made holes in mine for the grommet to go through.

There isn't a great deal of room but it all fits in and I've had them in since Feb without trouble. 

Pics please! 

 

 

Would need to get new rubbers for the lamps as I made holes in mine for the grommet to go through.

Hi Vectra1, I started seeing some formation of mist inside the projector housing last week (due to heavy rain). However it disappeared after a long run with the lights on. I'm thinking it may be due to improper sealing of grommet to the rubber. I glued them together with superglue. 

 

Would like to move the ballast inside too if possible.

Got mine done today. Another londoncolour kit 4300k. Here is a pic of the balasts inside the headlamp housing on an MY13 FL Octavia Scout. Tight fit but goes in. Bits of velcro to stop it moving too much.

Strangely the only VCDS option I had was  Bi Xenons with shutters fitted. Which is wrong on both accounts, but ticked thanks to a very kind Briskoda Member last night. All works with no errors and If the HID bulb is unplugged I get a bulb out warning so everything works as it should. I used ordinary Halogens last night with out issues after the coding was done.