Tyre replacement on 4x4

[Gyp]

Had a little search but not quite found what I'd like to know...

It won't be long until my Yeti will be needing tyres. I'm following the discussions on Michelin CCs with interest, but have a more general question.

At present, the fronts are just over 2mm, the rears over 3mm.

Is the "right" thing to do with the current 4x4 technology...

A) replace the fronts soon and then replace the rears as & when they wear down

put the rears on the front and new tyres on the rear

C) swap the fronts and rears round now and replace all 4 as a set later.

I'm aware there's a strong argument for having the deepest tread on the rear, but is this mainly for FWD cars where there's not much weight in the rear? If it is a more widely applicable rule, then B would appear to be the best option

[Ryeman]

Rears when worn are the most vulnerable to puncture.

[Gyp]

Hmmm. Option B seems to have turned into sunglasses. That might just be Tapatalk. I'm sure it'll still make sense

[Ryeman]

Hmmm. Option B seems to have turned into sunglasses. That might just be Tapatalk. I'm sure it'll still make sense

How odd....to me at least

[Gyp]

Rears when worn are the most vulnerable to puncture.

Why's that then?

Is it because most well worn rears on 2WD cars are rather old or some other reason that I can't spot?

[33q]

Personally at 2 and 3 mm I'd be changing all four for a matched set. Might get a better deal too. Not worth the risk.

[Ryeman]

In my experience of nails and screws ending up in the rear tyre, I've concluded that the front 'bounces' the foreign object and the rear catches it......all my slow leaks are in rear tyres over decades.

[JCP]

At 2mm you are flirting with points on your licence and at 3mm you are below optimum performance-if you only go gently in the dry you may save a few pounds-but I'd be changing all 4 before disaster rather than sitting down counting the shillings when you have had a whoopsee because you have cut it fine.

[Ryeman]

^^^ I prefer all 4 at once if affordable.

The left rear is the most vulnerable for foreign object damage due to road camber.

[rum4mo]

At 2mm you are flirting with points on your licence and at 3mm you are below optimum performance-if you only go gently in the dry you may save a few pounds-but I'd be changing all 4 before disaster rather than sitting down counting the shillings when you have had a whoopsee because you have cut it fine.

 

As above, these tyres are too far gone for anything other than dry warm days driving, and driving slowly, (4WD and slick tyres, now what is that good for?)

[philbes]

I always change tyres at 3mm.  Swap back and fronts so all 4 are changed at once.  This allows me to swap brand if I wish and still ensure that all 4 tyres are the same.

 

Over the past few years all my punctures have been in the front tyres and on my wife's car punctures have all been in the rear tyres.  Ryeman, any theory as to why?  I don't drive everywhere in reverse.

[Ryeman]

[quote name=...

 

Over the past few years all my punctures have been in the front tyres and on my wife's car punctures have all been in the rear tyres.  Ryeman, any theory as to why?  I don't drive everywhere in reverse.

I never use the word never

My experience is predominantly slow leaks from nails or screws....as for 'blowouts' I can't remember ever having one in the last 30+ years

[Gyp]

At 2mm you are flirting with points on your licence and at 3mm you are below optimum performance-if you only go gently in the dry you may save a few pounds-but I'd be changing all 4 before disaster rather than sitting down counting the shillings when you have had a whoopsee because you have cut it fine.

 

To be honest, it's a good 2mm on the front on the gauge, I'm not down to the wear marks and the wear is perfectly even across the face of on all 4. They will be changed soon, and to be honest i drive comfortably below the speed limit in wet conditions anyway (I'm not one of those that hammers on at 90 in the outside lane in a deluge).

 

I'm torn between the Michelin CCs (which seem to be creeping up in price) the original Pirelli P Zero Rosso (which are about £100 less for a set and have been fine) or the Goodyear Efficient Grips (which are mid priced and quietest)

[rum4mo]

One thing about needing new tyres right now, maybe the perfect time to change to all season tyres, maybe something other than CCs - try to stick with non-directional tyres, an all season tyre with the "mountain and snow flake" marking would be excellent without moving across to winter tyres - depending where you live and drive to and at what time of day.

 

Edit:- I'm surprised that you mentioned Pirelli P Zero Rosso on a Yeti, Audi fitted them to S4 at factory, but I only use them in summer. I would have hoped that Skoda would equipe a 4WD Yeti with something a bit more useful, even an all season tyre in case it got taken into some "soft stuff".

Edited 6 November, 2015 by rum4mo

[thingy]

Hi Gyp, I had the Zero Rosso tyres on my Yeti. Tried to get same again, only some places said they were not made for the Yeti.

After reading most of the hype about CC's I decided to get those instead.

Done about 1500 on the new tyres. They seem a fair bit quieter than the old tyres.

The CC's are good with standing water, and presume as good as most other makes (or others may be better).

Don't know if I've changed my driving habit's or I'm getting weak in pressing down on the throttle but,

I'm getting a couple of more mpg with the CC's. They seem to hold the road just as good.

Good luck in your choice and safe driving.

[Brijo]

.....try to stick with non-directional tyres.....

 

I suggest that 'directional' treads are almost universal for all-seaons and winters.  My spec would be (and indeed was) for symmetrical patterns - suitable for either side of the car - thus any tyre can go on any wheel. 

[Llanigraham]

I suggest that 'directional' treads are almost universal for all-seaons and winters.  My spec would be (and indeed was) for symmetrical patterns - suitable for either side of the car - thus any tyre can go on any wheel. 

 

Goodyear Vectors and Michelin CC's don't appear to be either.

[Urrell]

Michelin Cross Climate are directional, the "arrow" in the tread has to point forward at the top.

 

Edit: And I'd say the same about the Goodyear Vectors too.

Edited 7 November, 2015 by Urrell

[KBPhoto]

I'm on the cusp of swapping my fronts to the rear and vice versa to ensure I get even wear out of them.

I know I'll have a higher outlay on four tyres than on two, but less trips to the garage and possibility of a deal or offer on four make up for that in my mind.

I'm also following the Michelin CC thread with interest and they do seem like a good buy, but then there was another tyre mentioned (with link to Auto Express test) that seemed slightly better again. It was the mark 2 of an existing tyre, but can't recall what at present.

[rum4mo]

I suggest that 'directional' treads are almost universal for all-seaons and winters.  My spec would be (and indeed was) for symmetrical patterns - suitable for either side of the car - thus any tyre can go on any wheel. 

 

I do agree that many winter tyres are directional, but quite a lot of all season tyres are not, I was making this comment originally for the benefit of the OP in case he did not want anything too aggressive - I've always found directional tyres make a bit of extra noise, mainly during braking, that is all. BTW, my Pilot Alpins winter tyres are not directional - but Yeti should/would not want Pilot Alpins.

[Urrell]

but then there was another tyre mentioned (with link to Auto Express test) that seemed slightly better again. It was the mark 2 of an existing tyre, but can't recall what at present.

It must have been done earlier in the year as the Michelin Cross Climates were not in it if This is the test you mention.

 

Here is one from a sister publication that includes the CC.

Edited 7 November, 2015 by Urrell

[Paul52]

If we were coming into summer then I might see the argument to squeeze a bit more life out of the tyres but at this time of year in your situation (as I was about 2 months ago) I'd bite the bullet and buy four new tyres. If my maths is correct if you assume 24000 miles from a tyre and 6mm of usable tread that's 4,000 miles/mm which for someone driving 12,000 miles a year so that's about four months of life. At £120/tyre that works out at £20/mm of usable tread per tyre. So by not changing them you will be saving perhaps £40-£80 by the time you've replaced all four tyres when they've worn down a bit more (depending on how close to the legal limit you are prepared to go) but you will be driving through the winter months on tyres with near minimum legal tread and what might be less than optimum performance in terms of grip, potentially compromising steering and braking. When it's dark and pouring with rain I'd be thinking that changing my tyres early and "losing" a few pounds was good value to have four decent tyres under me - it could be the difference between claiming off the insurance of the driver that's just hit you in the rear and being the driver wondering how much no claim bonus he's just lost!

 

As for the Cross Climates, I've done about 1200 miles so far on them. My father-in-law (who travels with me quite a lot) commented about how the car seems quieter, which I thought it did but it's nice to hear someone confirm it, the grip seems excellent in the wet and like others I'm definitely seeing improved mpg (based on three brim-to-brim fills so far but also the Maxidot readout at trip end on journeys I regularly make).

[skomaz]

Michelin Cross Climate are directional, the "arrow" in the tread has to point forward at the top.

Edit: And I'd say the same about the Goodyear Vectors too.

Anything with a v tread pattern is directional... Ie it has to rotate in a specific direction.

Also directionals don't usually have one tyre wall that has to go on the outside so they tend to be fine for any wheel provided they rotate correctly, unlike asymmetric tyres which have to be fitted with a certain wall on the outside.

[skomaz]

I'm on the cusp of swapping my fronts to the rear and vice versa to ensure I get even wear out of them.

I know I'll have a higher outlay on four tyres than on two, but less trips to the garage and possibility of a deal or offer on four make up for that in my mind.

I'm also following the Michelin CC thread with interest and they do seem like a good buy, but then there was another tyre mentioned (with link to Auto Express test) that seemed slightly better again. It was the mark 2 of an existing tyre, but can't recall what at present.

That would be the vector four seasons generation 2... They have a subtly different tread pattern to the originals and don't have a central circumferential tread block at the centre of the v like the originals did.

I was debating both but went for the CCs in the end. They have arrived but are yet to be fitted.

On the subject of noise I've personally always found directionals to be much quieter than non directionals.

[KBPhoto]

It must have been done earlier in the year as the Michelin Cross Climates were not in it if This is the test you mention.

 

Here is one from a sister publication that includes the CC.

 

This is the test I referred to... As mentioned above by skomaz

 

That would be the vector four seasons generation 2... They have a subtly different tread pattern to the originals and don't have a central circumferential tread block at the centre of the v like the originals did.