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If the digital is ok then I reckon ABS/speed sensors are working. It may be a failing speedo in cluster. From memory its a tiny little motor that drives needle or perhaps cluster needs connectors cleaned and refitted. If removing cluster remember to disconnect battery first. Alasdair

Good luck with it. Just got my sons mk1 1.2htp through another MOT Only advisory was tyre worn on one edge. Had to do the front Console bushes etc which wasnt easy to get the bolts out but not bad for a 20 year old car. I love driving it. They are excellent cars with a lot more room inside than others. Alasdair

Good morning guys how's everyone doing, alasdair the info you last shared appears to be rock solid even though, like you, that's wayyy above my area of expertise, and I'm in agreement with you regarding AI , even though it hasn't failed me as yet. At present (ALL) of the recommended part(s) aftermarket for my car has been through AI, so I'm greatful thus far for the guidance, normally this would've been a rather stressful journey to search the web for companies who do stuff for our cars yuh know...anyways back to the main point, I'm very determined to pursue this guidance from you Alasdair1, as I'm not parting ways with my machine, love these little cars very much , from day one. I'm of the opinion that they're person's in Barbados who can sort me out ,it's just a matter of finding them, at the appropriate time I'll share findings as things progress Would be beneficial to the community 👍👍

Gentlemen, to return to the topic, I've not driven a 40kw LX version before, so I don't know how noticeable the difference between it and my 50kw LXi truly is. Would any of you have that experience? In that light would swapping an intake from a 50KW motor provide any benefit? I wonder if I can make smaller changes rather than engine swaps / overhaul, which, as has been noted, is illegal here. To sum up I'm thinking about buying an LX model Felda in a colour I prefer to the flat white my current car is, and part of the consideration is will a 40KW motor be as enjoyable in a light 'city runner' as what I have now?

Swapping is illegal in the majority of cases in GR. Is not my post and only a blind could see it because i write exclusively based in Greek Grammar-Syntax (by the way these are Greek words) ,i do it in purpose and the text isn't. No logical man will ask AI ''should a take the A medicine or the B from internet for cancer?" or ''should i do heart surgery or leave it as is?" but let my give you a characteristic example: a friend of mine want to install Led bulbs in his 40 years old motorcycle and in forums when asked he read posts from ''i don't know-sigh...first time i hear such a joke-do you really have an old motorcycle and you haven't bought a new as i did? don't do it won't work-ha,ha are you serious?" etc or just nobody replied to him, i suggest him to ask the AI just to get an idea because you can not rely 100% on it in crucial matters. He did it, the AI not only suggest to him a simple modification to do in the harness, the specific type of bulbs that needed and pay attention do not buy other design and some other things for the voltage regulator rectifier that no one told him about when he asked. The result? He got rid off the halogen bulb, installed Led, saved many W from the whole electrical system, can see better and the other drivers pay more attention to him at night. All i did what to give a suggestion from what i have found and let me remind you that few years back we had"The other guy" with an attitude: ''do as i told you-What? you ask for further analysis? i know better i am expert your opinion doesn't count-What? you didn't follow my instructions? so i am not talk to you any more-you are now by your own here". What the gained? He argued with bad manners with 99% of the members,caused nothing more than problems in every topic so now that he is away no one is remember him. @keywacat after all this fuss (which i had the prediction that will be continued) what's your decision? You will buy a cheaper 40Kw engine and then pay to make it 50Kw or you will go straight to 50Kw. PS: from my humble experience you need a lot of money lot of money and time in ECU programming-air filter,new air induction-whole exhaust system to get some HP on Felicia.

Using a 185/65 R15 when the rest of the wheels are 195/65 R16 is as much use as a space saver, ie limited speed and distance. No way do I want to do a regular york > Woking trip on a space saver! The car this replaced, a Citygo had a full sized spare as did an earlier Peugeot 3008. Why do car makers assume that we only make short journeys or live within short distances of a decent tyre dealer open 24/7. Madness. And for those interested the last time I had a puncture it was on a Sunday morning heading to the port ahead of a holiday in France. Luckily, I had a full sized spare.

You can see part numbers in the photo post higher up this thread. Only thing it won’t have is the cables. But you may be able to get just the cables from Ali express.

Where I said that? I pointed out quite clearly what's wrong with your post, are you ignoring that on purpose? The point you are trying to make is nowhere to be found in "your" posts. Or are you trying to say that what you posted isn't whatever AI spat out and an actual informed human wrote and fact-checked that? Because it's wrong anyway. Also another point, swapping the engine with a different type is illegal in CZ.

2116 Skoda Fabia 1.2 tsi GLS My analogue Speedometer not showing correctly. When digital speedometer show 30 the analogue show approximately half that speed Any help would be greatly appreciated Smudger

Check your PMs

Hello Pab567, can you send me the link in PM? Thank you

They can fail of course but LEDs usually have a long life. As Derek says it's impractical to replace at the roadside and can even be difficult at home due to gaining access.

So my car is currently built but awaiting part which I assume is linked to below https://aroundprague.cz/en/news/economy/skoda-auto-cuts-factory-shifts-after-strikes-on-its-ukrainian-supplier

£1500 located in Leeds For sale is our family car, known as 'Bobby' to our kids. We have owned the car for around 9 years and it's been my wife's daily. Good bits: Lots of service history, maintained regardless of cost with invoices. Major work include: 5 months MOT with no advisories. New timing belt and water pump in March. New Clutch recently including brake fluid. Turbo replaced at 105k. Front arms and tracking done a few years ago Serviced every year Recent service including new caliper New radiator fitted the last year including coolant Had a new A/C condenser and this system is serviced yearly Stage 1 map Dpf deleted Head unit upgraded including a kenwood sub under driver's seat Extra sound proofing fitted from Noise Killer solutions in Oldham New battery last year Not so good: Some age related bodywork Sills have surface rust. Skoda should of used sill protection higher up! These have never been raised on any MOT. Small hole in drivers sill from an impact not rust. Doesn't seem a big repair and I've photographed so you can see. It's about 2-3cm. Quoted £160 to fix so this is reflected in price Boot lid corrosion. Caused by failing rear wiper mechanism now replaced and all works as it should. Number plate bulbs all work. Tyres are good brand but coming to end of life. The car drives exceptionally well maintained regardless of cost! Even my mechanic comments on how well it drives. £1500 is a great price considering New Clutch, New Timing Belt & Water Pump, and Replaced Turbo.

Thanks for that, missed the reply to this. I am not fussed in having the Carplay in the arm rest just so it has charging ability so this should work then.. Unless anyone has the Skoda part numbers for this, as I would like Skoda to get this on my behalf due to the issues I had with them

Thanks - I'll be sure to mention these things to the garage tomorrow

That's good news. So according to you worht to buy a cheaper 40Kw engine and then pay to make it 50Kw? I not, the ''AI nonsense" not so let's collect different opinions from members for the best result.

Have you checked if the brake calipers move properly? Sounds like something's dragging and causing vibrations. Once you touch brakes, everything settles and noise disappears.

Cold, grey and a little misty at the Res this morning although there was considerable excitement over the sighting of a grey phalarope! I didn't have my camera with me🤦‍♂️ Not a bird I'd heard of although I was told it's not a common sight in the UK?

OMG! I think we have a winning reply! Perhaps a careless omission from my initial post, but the WAS a hot smell coming from the car the first time I noticed the low fuel consumption. I thought it was a brake binding, and the hot smell didn't repeat for my home journey after that one instance, despite still having that 20-something MPG on that return journey, so I thought it was a red herring and didn't mention it. My goodness! That would explain why there were no fault codes and the garage found nothing. I think you have nailed it! 🏆

@D.FYLAKTOS Please, do not just copy&paste AI nonsense here, it'll just scrub here again and reinforce bad information and will be even more inaccurate. Anyone can ask LLM themselves, no need to do it for them and spread misinformation. Pistons raise CR from 9.5 to 10. Not that big of a difference and it may be possible to reach through head skimming. The biggest difference is valve timing and ignition timing. The ECU is tuned for 91RON fuel, so it has milder advance settings. The valves have narrower timing because of the fuel, too. There may be different head, but not ignition volume, but rather different cross section of inlet ports - though this changed so much throughout the production that I'm not sure if it's difference between the two variants. Also, one difference not related to the engine - the 40kW has FASTER gearbox - in fact, as tall as the 1.6. 50kW is 250/500RPM faster on 5th gear (pre-facelift/facelift), to increase torque on wheels. There's another potential issue - around 1997 MY, there was change in camshaft bearing size, which also affected timing chain sprockets. So you'll need to check which variant you have and find correct donor, if you proceed with swap.

Hi Mark. All four sticking at once, only after a few minutes of braking, and freeing off once it has cooled down, points at the master cylinder not letting fluid back to the reservoir rather than at the calipers. Four calipers don't all seize at the same time, and the timing (straight after the master cylinder job) is a strong clue. How it works: when you let the pedal go, the piston in the master cylinder returns fully and uncovers a small return port to the reservoir. If the piston is held even slightly forward, that port stays covered. As the fluid warms up from braking it expands, has nowhere to go, and pushes all four brakes on. Leave it a few minutes, it cools and contracts, and everything is fine again. That matches what you're describing. Things I'd ask the garage to check tomorrow: 1. Pedal return. With the engine off, make sure the pedal comes all the way back to its stop and isn't being held by the brake light switch, the trim or the carpet. If the brake lights stay faintly on or flicker with your foot off, the pedal isn't fully home. 2. Servo pushrod to master cylinder clearance. If the new master cylinder sits differently on the servo, or the pushrod is now pressing on the piston with no free play, you get exactly this. There should be a small amount of free play before the piston starts moving. 3. The part itself. Is it the correct master cylinder for the vRS, and is it new or reconditioned? A wrong-spec or faulty unit with a sticking piston can do the same thing. 4. Fluid. Make sure it was topped up with the correct DOT 4 type and nothing else went in. A useful test if it happens again with the garage: when it's stuck, safely crack a bleed nipple open. If fluid spurts out under pressure and that wheel frees straight away, the pressure is being held upstream (master cylinder or servo side), which confirms it. Please don't keep driving it like this, as dragging brakes overheat quickly and can fade. Hope it's an easy fix, let us know what they find.

Admittedly that helps with one of the issues, Steve. Although Google maps (I use carplay most of the time) does also show the junction in the left dial but without the surrounding context. It's more the annoyance than anything of all these little issues combined.

I agree with battery check as well as earths etc. Anything under 12.2V may be too low as during cranking can drop below threshold for electronics. It could be a completely dead ABS sensor or broken wires to one. If the ECU detects no connection it may ping up those errors. If the battery is good and earths are good I would get it scanned with vcds to see if it can pick up something the garage scanners cant. Also check the brake light is working. Alasdair

In the end I went for Audio-Technica M50xBT. they were well reviews and he didn’t need the noise reduction. He's happy with them so that's a win. Got them as returns on Amazon warehouse for a bit of a discount. they were missing a cable but they coughed for a replacement.