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Ah excellent. Way more advanced than me with my app! I assumed you were going to be using the kufatec dongles but guess you were just using them as reference for what’s possible!

2Q0 980 653 Blimey 804 GBP plus VAT !! sod that to replace if it fails.....

I have the factory ODIS with SFD1 and 2 online access account and VCDS full hex net with SFD1, so shouldnt be too much of an issue. I also have Andromeda Resarch Labs EEPROM automotive kit if I need to flash the eeprom to get it to work. Should be covered. I have both VIN of the cars and with ETKA it shows parts to VIN, both cars had the same camera part number.

Good morning, good evening, or perhaps good night—I’m not quite sure what to call it! 😅 So, someone triggered me? Let’s take a calm look at everything and clear up the basics. What hardware is installed in the vehicle? If you have OBD11, please perform a full backup and attach the file here in the forum. Also, going back to the accident: were only the headlights replaced, or were both the headlights and the control modules (power modules) replaced? Once these two points are clarified, we can look at the details.

What can be coded for the assistance camera depends on part number as there are two types. But in general if it has a camera you can then code all that that camera is capable of quite easily. This can be done using carscanner app significantly cheaper than the kufatec dongles - £8 for lifetime pro access. And £36 this dongle for connection. https://amzn.eu/d/08jFFKAT https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/

When you see the spanner, its a system fault, it will start a count down to non start and when it gets to zero it won't let you start it. So if you are driving and it gets to zero, turn the stop start off, it won't cut out, but if you stall it or turn it off, that is where you will stay until it is reset (with a scan tool) for 30 km more to get you home or the problem is fixed. Chewed wiring and pipework can cause it, yes the pipe work has a heating element running its length (inside the convoluted pipe) to stop the urea freezing in use. when the little blighters sink their teeth in the foil it can interrupt the circuit causing the dreaded spanner light to come on. The in tank heater, pump in the tank or ecu also part of the tank can fail due to moisture ingress as it did on my VW T6.1 van recently requiring anew tank under warranty. Why my next car will be petrol. This emissions crap is killing our cars while China, India and North Korea press ahead building coal fired power stations. Delusional fools thinking electric cars will save the planet while goodness knows what is being spewed into the atmosphere from the numerous wars around the world.

Alright guys so problem solved turns out it was just a connection issue with the wiring, fixed that and there you go , the sensor works fine now , check oil level warning has cleared ,oil temp displays correctly. thanks for your help guys 🫡

Owner hit something in the road, lost the contents which is always a worry for lasting damage in later life. I found dongles on Kufatec for travel assist and the other option (can't remember) the blue car is missing, so it can only be coding as they both have the lane and blind spot assist, the same adaptive cruise to stop then start off and the same multifunction camera on the screen. And for the massage drivers seat option, I looked up the ecu and they both have the same part number so must be a perameterisation setting or coding. The switch differs just in the symbol wavey lines rather than a 3, but the seat lumbar support unit is 100 GBP more so may be more robust motors fitted, the mechanism physically looks the same. I have also spotted three nice additions the dealer clearly isn’t aware of too. Will let you know if I get it. Someone from Leicester interested in it too with a Px. Gave the dealer a final cash offer, instant transfer no Px, not really bothered if they don;t accept it as the colour is brighter than I thought it was. I thought it was cobalt blue not energy blue so we will see tomorrow if they accept. Calling me back.

It was the battery, I changed it which sorted it, although I have noticed it does the same thing if i leave my android auto wireless adaptor plugged in overnight too.

SFS? I have already 2 ( or 3!!) Skodas in my life, my vRS octy (mk3) which is awesome but need to fix the clutch, life been getting in the way, a nearly new condition L+K 1.8 octy mk3, amazing car but I don't need 2x Octys and this will probably return more back in value so going to be selling I'm sure. So why the hell would I need another car. But the Fabia, modified with petrol engine ( rather than diseasel vRS) would be what suites me long term, though I do need to get rid of the 2nd Octy really.....

All the basic setting does is disable any input from the front and rear sensor (should be two) at least, to differentiate front to rear leveling, the tech then adjusts the beam setting on the tester, the basic setting is then turned off allowing the sensors to influence the beam setting again. It is a bit like when you do your tyre pressures then push the set button in simple terms. You may have a seized sensor. One on the front of my car seized, no warning lights on, did the up down out in sequence but no range control. The ball joint had rusted and expanded in the plastic joint seizing it solid. Or like someone suggested, they are upside down, or more likely the bodyshop just fitted the lights and havn't coded them in.

Might be, but then again I did not notice these before. I will clean and check this though. But it is more jittery than before. Either way. If jonesi100 could share his experience?

Was this scan done with engine on? You should scan for codes with engine off but ignition on. Clear all codes and scan again. If you genuinely had these faults you would probably not be driving anywhere!

Hate red cars Meteor grey is the colour I really wanted

type

If your Company has one, get the fleet manager to pressure the stealer - surly in their interest to ensure no further damage to transmission.

AI says it's a wet clutch, yes it's a company car and under warranty but local dealer tends to ignore the 'issues' I raise and just do the routine servicing. 🙄 No other franchise nearby so was hoping some sort of gearbox learning reset sequence might have been possible somehow?

A cou0le of waders from today. Also messed about with a couple of old shots and extended them using the latest update from Apple. Very impressive tool, you can’t see the join🤣

Date: 2026-11-13 18:32 VIN: <Removed by Admin> Car: Skoda Octavia Scout Year: 2018 Body type: Estate Engine: CJSB Mileage: 124152 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 02 Transmission System description: DQ250-6A MQB Software number: 0D9300018 Software version: 5202 Hardware number: 02E927770AS Hardware version: H54 Serial number: TFK01712051168 ODX name: EV_TCMDQ250021 ODX version: 001001 Long coding: 0014 Trouble codes: P072C00 - Stuck in Gear 1 Intermittent P072D00 - Stuck in Gear 2 Intermittent P072E00 - Stuck in Gear 3 Intermittent P072F00 - Stuck in Gear 4 Intermittent P073A00 - Stuck in Gear 5 Intermittent P073B00 - Stuck in Gear 6 Intermittent P072B00 - Stuck in Reverse Intermittent P174A00 - Valve 3 in partial transmission 1 Electrical malfunction Intermittent P174E00 - Valve 3 in partial transmission 2 Electrical malfunction Intermittent P072600 - Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Range/Performance Intermittent P079700 - Pressure Contr.Solenoid C Stuck On Intermittent P179D00 - Cooling oil valve Electrical malfunction Intermittent

No, the rear sensor wasn't impacted. The accident was at the front end. Only radar, two headlights, bumper with stuff and front cover/mask. Could anyone check the value from the sensor in Live Data? My shows 46% after Headlights Basic Settings implemented. Whatever that means....

Very unlikely there is anything you would be able to do yourself, best advice would be to get a DSG specialist to check it. Do you know if this is a DQ200 (dry clutch) unit ? Correction regarding a specialist - at 20 months old, this should still be under warranty, shouldn't it?

OP doesn’t have DCC so it will just be the rear sensor. So should. Have been impacted in accident.

I assume is 6 speed and wet clutch. The clutch material as it wears ends up in the oil. That’s why the oil and filter must be changed. As well as general deterioration of the oil. When new oil is added it doesn’t hold the same particulates and as such the clutches can slip until they are adjusted via adaptation. If it’s just that the gear changes are a bit hesitant or change up/down a little unexpectedly it may well be because it has had the adaptation done and it needs time to relearn your driving style.

Sensors may working yes, but was it fitted the right way round after the crash repair? Cause the leveling sensor arms that pivot can b fitted the wrong way round, and cause the headlight aim to misbehave. This how the 3x sensors on DCC equipped cars should look like this.... Front left axle Front right axle Rear left axle

Any recommendations on where to source replacements? Discoloured original 20 Yr old pair. Thanks